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Kinda serious question, but for the exact same US$6000, who'd rather the 24MP 24x36mm 30fps R3 or 100MP 33x44mm 5fps Fuji GFX100S?

Only 50 megapickles? Yawn. Come back when there's something to beat my 400MP 4x5" or 330MP 6x17cm Velvia scans. And price it less than $300 for a body and $200 for a lens while you're at it.

Only 3 systems? My 7D with 70-300L is great for birds and wildlife when I'm out and about, and with Sigma 8-16 it's still the widest I can get. EOS 3 with 40mm is good for street, and with 85/1.8 or 100/2.0 for stage portraits, or lately with RokiBowYang 35/1.4 for ultra-sharp landscapes (but...

Well, it might not work on my 7D if the sensor limit is 1/250s, but it would make it nice to get real flash sync using Portra on my EOS3 without adapting MF Leaf-shutter lenses (at which point, I'd just use an MF body and be done with it).

As noted above, it depends on what you want to do with the images once 'scanned'. If it's just consumer-grade film, and/or you're just going to post them online shrunk to 2MP or so, go right ahead. If you want to inkjet print them up to A3 or something, that'll also work with better films and...

That's how it starts, I've now got two 4x5 monorails (with 6x7, 6x9, 6x17, and 70mm roll-backs), an 8x10, two 4x5 Travelwides on their way, plus a whole bucketload of lenses, 65/90/135/180/270/465/600, and my latest (and oldest) addition, a 12"/21"/28" Turner Reich Triple Convertible uncoated...

I'd be more concerned that you've got a piece of equipment called (what looks like) HAL 100 on your desk. Only a few more upgrade cycles and you'll be at 9000.

Spend years building up a name for yourself, then sell it to someone who then sells it for a shiteload more than you'll ever get...

A 'pancake' lens that's 64mm long and (at least) 58mm wide is not really my definition of a pancake. Also, a lens that is 64mm long at one end, 62mm at the other end, and 56mm long in the middle, that you have to somehow try to get to an intermediate focal length where it's smallest to pack...

1 year on, I thought I'd resurrect this thread, now that we have the A7R available. Whose predictions came true?

You want "the best", or "the best within budget"? For backs, there's the IQ180, but there's also the new IQ280. The main advantage of the 280 over the 180 is that the 280 doesn't crap out on long exposures, get one of them for 1min+. Going the Hasselblad route, there's the H4D200MS, it's a 50MP...

I actually get mildly offended when they feel the need to point "this one is the shutter button". OK, I may also have trouble turning off their flash depending on what menu it's hidden under, but I think I can work out where the shutter is...

I'm just waiting for the day when someone does that to me with my 7D+70-300L, so I could pull out my Toyoview 4x5. (until, of course, someone comes past with their Ebony 8x10, then they'd get their comeuppance in turn from someone with a 20x24, at which point this guy drives past and we all hang...

The one I get all the time is "wow, you can still buy film?"

My mum went to Japan in 1967 and bought a Spotmatic with Takumar 55/2, 35/3.5, and 135/2.5. When she got her K5, I googled and found some website that converted historic PPP prices, that spotmatic kit converted to about twice what the K5 cost (and it's lasted a good 50 years, too, money well spent)

Forget "white box" pancake. Me wanty "white" pancake.

Yes. (and props to the guy using eye-control focus on the Sigzilla...)

Re: Full Frame only: Canon 1Ds Mark III or Canon 5D Mark III plus $500 Without knowing the answers to Menace's questions, the easiest advice is: Bodies always drop in price, glass is forever. Take the cheaper body and put the extra cash towards some nice glass (or if you've got enough glass...

Be thankful it's not a Graflex RB Series D My 7D is tiny by comparison. But then, put my 7D next to my Agat 18K and that's a whole other size down again (for the same image-area too)

I've used the Kenko 1.4x 'Pro 300' version perfectly fine. Most of the Kenko range should fit, but that's the only one I've experienced. AF doesn't really happen at 300mm in dim light on my 7D, but in bright light it's fine. IQ doesn't take much of a hit at all (to my eyes)