Another option you pay for and for those who use spot meter is to set "C.Fn1- Spot Meter. Linked to AF Point", you can also meter up to 8 (I think) areas to average the scene using AE lock/hold and the Fn button.
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Eldar said:The M mode with auto ISO is very desirable, when you want to control both shutter speed and aperture, in shifting light conditions and are willing to fluctuate on ISO. If things are more stable, I often shoot in full manual, where I control EC with ISO adjustments. However, adjusting ISO and shifting AF points around takes time and attention, so I prefer to use auto ISO. I use Av mode occasionally, when I know I have enough light to get proper shutter speeds at a given ISO setting, but I never use Tv mode.Jack Douglas said:Why is M with auto ISO so desirable other than be an auto exposure mode? I guess this question would digress into the merits of manual vs. auto??
Eldar, that sure is a bummer. So it seems like that click that ensures the pair stay together somehow didn't happen??
Jack
The locking mechanism on my 1DX-II does give the click, but it does not lock properly. If you don´t get the click, you cannot control the lens aperture, so that is easy to detect. Canon´s (CPS that is) initial reaction was that the drop damage is not covered by warranty, but I claimed that it was a faulty locking mechanism that caused the damage. I have been told that they will come back with an answer next week. I have confirmed with my insurance company though that if Canon refuse to take it as warranty, they will cover it under the insurance.
arthurbikemad said:Another option you pay for and for those who use spot meter is to set "C.Fn1- Spot Meter. Linked to AF Point", you can also meter up to 8 (I think) areas to average the scene using AE lock/hold and the Fn button.
Jack Douglas said:I had actually selected that thinking that I'd rather have the metering off my subject that is under the AF point than some rather unrelated central region. Now I'm wondering how big the metering region would be. Your opinion??
Jack Douglas said:arthurbikemad said:Another option you pay for and for those who use spot meter is to set "C.Fn1- Spot Meter. Linked to AF Point", you can also meter up to 8 (I think) areas to average the scene using AE lock/hold and the Fn button.
Now this one did come up in another thread where it was being requested as a feature for the 5D4 and Scott (PBD) debated the value of it. I couldn't completely see why it would have any/many negatives although it may in fact not be that useful - another case where my expertise is not up to snuff.
I had actually selected that thinking that I'd rather have the metering off my subject that is under the AF point than some rather unrelated central region. Now I'm wondering how big the metering region would be. Your opinion??
Since I would be aware that I was metering off that region, I should be able to use it essentially the same as I would use the center region to confirm the brightness associated with my chosen subject (typically a bird only partially filling the frame). On the other hand if the central metering is doing something more sophisticated involving the whole viewfinder and averaging, then that's a different story.
Jack
Jack Douglas said:Thanks arbitrage, I'll delve into this later with the camera in my lap. Guess it doesn't make sense to use the set button to review images, although being a 6D person that struck my fancy.
Jack
East Wind Photography said:Jack Douglas said:Thanks arbitrage, I'll delve into this later with the camera in my lap. Guess it doesn't make sense to use the set button to review images, although being a 6D person that struck my fancy.
Jack
I always use back button AF. Af-on is set as normal, * is configured to spot AF so i can switch say between full af point tracking and spot AF by just selecting the appropriate button. In addition the shutter button is configured to just meter on half press, not AF.
In essence the camera "default" is full time manual focus and have to press one of two back buttons to start an AF process.
Its confusing for a while until you get used to it but is quite a life saver when shooting sports and players are constantly cutting in front of your subject. Just let up on the AF button when view is obstructed and resume when theyare clear.
More and more im using M mode with auto iso but it is a pain to do EC on the fly when top wheel is set for aperture and back wheel is set for shutter speed. I use Set for manual Iso adjustment when needed.
Need more wheels and things to adjust everything.
Jack Douglas said:Not sure who all is reading this thread but I for one am getting an education and am really appreciating it. Clearly, I have not fully understood all the nuances of AF and AE.
Still mildly confused on this. If I have BBF, AF-ON when pressed to do AI servo what do I get when it's released - is this One-shot or equivalent to One-shot?
Jack
Eldar said:Jack,
I am sure you can find (and you have found some) guidance from others on how they set up the camera. However, I do not believe there is a sensible copy-and-be-happy approach. You need to figure out how to set it up for your need.
Personally I am not even close to using the camera to its fullest potential and I only master a minor part of its functional capabilities. My approach has been to think critically on what I need and what suits me. The most important being:
I use the AF-On button to activate one-shot in servo mode and not for BB focus.
I select number of AF points with the AF point selector (activate) and the front wheel (select).
I change ISO settings with the set button(activate) and the back wheel (select).
All other buttons are kept with their default functionality.
When it comes to all the internal settings, I do not believe there is a one package fits all option. You must spend time trying to understand what they do. In principle, you do nothing wrong by leaving them in their default position and then do them one by one as your experience grows.
One thing I am missing or have not been able to figure out, is how I can dial in exposure compensation in manual mode, without taking my eye away from the viewer. Currently I have to look at the display and it annoys me. If someone know if/how this can be done, I'd be happy.
As a sidenote, my camera fell on rocks the other day, so the mirror housing is damaged and the sensor is out of position ...
Jack Douglas said:arbitrage, that's very helpful, thanks. So some/quite a few folk might be thinking they have one-shot when technically they don't.
I didn't realize it was in the wrong section and will check how things are arranged, but I don't know how to move it.
Jack
arbitrage said:Owning the D500, I know that Canon is miles ahead on button customizability than Nikon is. Maybe Sony allows you to have more freedom with assigning functions to buttons but Nikon is very poor. It is impossible to quickly change AF modes when supporting a big lens on the Nikon. Only on the most recent cameras D500/D5 can you now have more than one back button but it can't be modified as much as the Canon ones and can only change the AF point mode.
I think the 1DX2 was the first Canon that allows a button to be assigned to toggle OneShot/Servo AND allows you to just push the button and not have to hold it in. All the previous ones you had to hold the button and releasing it switched back. I believe (but could be wrong) that the 1DX2 allows the button to act as a toggle. Push it a second time to get back to the default setting.
With Canon there are lots of different ways to get things done and I appreciate that.
I think that questions about a camera (that isn't a rumour) should go into the EOS-Bodies for Stills section of the forum. But I don't think you will be able to move this. A moderator may be able to move it if you PM them. Not a big deal but more people would see it that way. I only saw it because it was on the CR main page under "hot" forum topics!!