6D Slightly Struggling with Sports

Cory

EOS 7D MK II
Oct 20, 2012
551
3
Yardley, PA
eorthoTENS.com
Not that it's a deal-breaker, but my first "sports" outing with the 6D was a slight struggle. My 70D was fairly seamless. Going through the pics and there's some really good ones with a photographic quality that's superior to that of my old 70D.
Not that I need to achieve "gear" perfection, but how might the 6D compare to a 6DII, 80D or 7DII for outdoor sports? Used Continuous Shooting today, too, which was a bit rough, but a better Continuous Shooter would yield a ton more pics to go through which would also be rough so I think I'm going back to Single Shooting - Got 1400+ shots today and selecting the keepers is going to be a thing. Fewer might be better.
I used my 135 2.0 today and 200 2.8 and 85 1.8 in the past with the 70D; with a 300 4.0 IS on the current Wish List.
Thanks for any insight including to not worry about it.
 

stevelee

FT-QL
Jul 6, 2017
1,227
264
Davidson, NC
About 5 years ago I was at a Kelby workshop in Charlotte, and at intermission I found I was seated near several folks who shot their sons' high school football games, stills and video. They either had or aspired to having the 7D (I think it was, rather than the 70D) as the best thing for shooting sports. The 7D II should be better, I'd expect. I'm sure folks here will chime in on the topic. I've not used either camera, and I haven't shot any sports with my 6D II, so all I can share is what these parents said.
 

Don Haines

Beware of cats with laser eyes!
Jun 4, 2012
8,125
1,642
Canada
Got the 6D and 7D at work.... the 6D2 and 7D2 at home....

Rating them as best to worst for action:

#1 7D2. The AF is far superior to the others and 10FPS for bursts
#2 6D2.
#3 7D I rank the 7D as lower than the 6D2 because the 6D2 has better AF.
#4 6D still a good camera, but not meant for fast action.....
 

Cory

EOS 7D MK II
Oct 20, 2012
551
3
Yardley, PA
eorthoTENS.com
Would a 6D and 7DII function almost exactly the same with a seamless transition between the two/very little "7D" learning curve?
Thanks. Asking for a friend. Not a word to my wife. Thanks.
 

Don Haines

Beware of cats with laser eyes!
Jun 4, 2012
8,125
1,642
Canada
Cory said:
Would a 6D and 7DII function almost exactly the same with a seamless transition between the two/very little "7D" learning curve?
Thanks. Asking for a friend. Not a word to my wife. Thanks.
The 7D2 AF system is fairly complex.... they call it a mini-1DX for a good reason. The basic concepts are the same, but the 7D2 allows much more customization. It also has considerably more AF points that cover a wider part of the frame and brings AF zones into the equation.....
 

unfocused

EOS 5D SR
Jul 20, 2010
4,926
1,237
66
Springfield, IL
www.mgordoncommunications.com
Cory said:
Not that it's a deal-breaker, but my first "sports" outing with the 6D was a slight struggle...
What sport are you shooting? Are you shooting indoors or outdoors? Kids or adults? There is no one single camera (except maybe the 1DX) that is best for all sports. Knowing what sport or sports you are shooting and conditions you are shooting under can help generate useful suggestions for using the 6D. 1,400 frames is not unusual depending on the sport.

Best way to manage the volume in my opinion is to do it on the fly. Shooting basketball for example, I will chimp the last sequence while the ball is at the opposite end of the court. I usually know if I think I got something decent so I immediately look at the sequence and if I see something I like I give it a rating -- a single star will suffice, unless it's outstanding.

During halftime I go through everything again, looking for the best shots. After the game I spend about 10 minutes going through the second half. Then, when you get to your home or office and download the files, you can just look at the ones that have been rated. If I have the time, I'll go through everything one more time in Bridge and see if anything pops out that I may have missed. You just have to be ruthless. If you reject anything that is out of focus or doesn't have the ball in the frame (if it is a sport that uses a ball) you can get it down to a reasonable volume pretty quickly.

Of course a first outing is a struggle. Every season, I have to re-learn what works best for each sport.
 

Don Haines

Beware of cats with laser eyes!
Jun 4, 2012
8,125
1,642
Canada
unfocused said:
Cory said:
Not that it's a deal-breaker, but my first "sports" outing with the 6D was a slight struggle...
What sport are you shooting? Are you shooting indoors or outdoors? Kids or adults? There is no one single camera (except maybe the 1DX) that is best for all sports. Knowing what sport or sports you are shooting and conditions you are shooting under can help generate useful suggestions for using the 6D. 1,400 frames is not unusual depending on the sport.

Best way to manage the volume in my opinion is to do it on the fly. Shooting basketball for example, I will chimp the last sequence while the ball is at the opposite end of the court. I usually know if I think I got something decent so I immediately look at the sequence and if I see something I like I give it a rating -- a single star will suffice, unless it's outstanding.

During halftime I go through everything again, looking for the best shots. After the game I spend about 10 minutes going through the second half. Then, when you get to your home or office and download the files, you can just look at the ones that have been rated. If I have the time, I'll go through everything one more time in Bridge and see if anything pops out that I may have missed. You just have to be ruthless. If you reject anything that is out of focus or doesn't have the ball in the frame (if it is a sport that uses a ball) you can get it down to a reasonable volume pretty quickly.

Of course a first outing is a struggle. Every season, I have to re-learn what works best for each sport.
I’d like to add that decent lenses may have more impact than a newer camera. I see very little improvement in image quality from the 6D to the 6D2, or from the 7D to the 7D2. A lens that is one stop faster helps more than the newer sensor, and allows more variability with shutter speed.

Of course, the right focal length helps, and if you happen to have the right prime, even better.....until things move.... that’s why you see a lot of the pros with a body (or more) with a long prime, and another body with a zoom.....
 

Cory

EOS 7D MK II
Oct 20, 2012
551
3
Yardley, PA
eorthoTENS.com
unfocused said:
Cory said:
Not that it's a deal-breaker, but my first "sports" outing with the 6D was a slight struggle...
What sport are you shooting? Are you shooting indoors or outdoors? Kids or adults? There is no one single camera (except maybe the 1DX) that is best for all sports. Knowing what sport or sports you are shooting and conditions you are shooting under can help generate useful suggestions for using the 6D. 1,400 frames is not unusual depending on the sport.

Best way to manage the volume in my opinion is to do it on the fly. Shooting basketball for example, I will chimp the last sequence while the ball is at the opposite end of the court. I usually know if I think I got something decent so I immediately look at the sequence and if I see something I like I give it a rating -- a single star will suffice, unless it's outstanding.

During halftime I go through everything again, looking for the best shots. After the game I spend about 10 minutes going through the second half. Then, when you get to your home or office and download the files, you can just look at the ones that have been rated. If I have the time, I'll go through everything one more time in Bridge and see if anything pops out that I may have missed. You just have to be ruthless. If you reject anything that is out of focus or doesn't have the ball in the frame (if it is a sport that uses a ball) you can get it down to a reasonable volume pretty quickly.

Of course a first outing is a struggle. Every season, I have to re-learn what works best for each sport.
I'm about to ramp up my "running" photography a lot.
Thanks.
 

Cory

EOS 7D MK II
Oct 20, 2012
551
3
Yardley, PA
eorthoTENS.com
Don Haines said:
Cory said:
I'm about to ramp up my "running" photography a lot.
Thanks.
Are you shooting the runners, or are you one of the runners?
I'm the photographer at "running" events. I also run which, I think, helps me to capture the essence of the event. But I either run or photograph and not both at the same time.
Thanks.
 

Don Haines

Beware of cats with laser eyes!
Jun 4, 2012
8,125
1,642
Canada
Cory said:
Don Haines said:
Cory said:
I'm about to ramp up my "running" photography a lot.
Thanks.
Are you shooting the runners, or are you one of the runners?
I'm the photographer at "running" events. I also run which, I think, helps me to capture the essence of the event. But I either run or photograph and not both at the same time.
Thanks.
I guess that means you are shooting in daylight.... That gets rid of the necessity of fast lenses and FF cameras (high ISO performance) and gives a lot more options.
 

martinslade

EOS 80D
Sep 16, 2014
162
0
Got a 6D a few months ago (first FF) and love it BUT it struggles with moving target in low light low contrast situations. Best results with centre point only on a high contrast part of subject in AIservo and take lots of shots to get 1 sharp. It can be frustrating in low light using fast lenses getting only 1 in 3-4 usable especially when the great shot is soft. Things improve dramatically in better light and when stopping down a bit. I also have 70D for more reach. I use Magic Lantern on both and find focusing aids useful especially when subject off centre when shooting in low light at f1.4. All good fun if you like a challenge ;)
 

blobmonster

I'm New Here
Nov 4, 2017
12
0
If the 6D has extended focus points around the centre like the 5D classic then turn them on for sports, assuming you have f2.8 lenses. I do this for kids rugby and it works great, although in my case I'm aided by high contrast black and white striped kit. No need for better autofocus here.
 

unfocused

EOS 5D SR
Jul 20, 2010
4,926
1,237
66
Springfield, IL
www.mgordoncommunications.com
I would also suggest working on your technique while you decide if you want a different camera. They more you shoot the better you will become and the less the camera will matter (but with sports, the camera does matter, no denying that).

For running, pick a spot where the route curves, so that you can shoot the runners more head on as they approach the curve. It is easier to focus on a moving subject coming towards you than one that is parallel to you. It will also make for more interesting shots.

Look for dips in the road, spots where you can shoot from higher up and catch the runners as they come uphill (when they will also be running a little more slowly).

Whenever possible, scout the route in advance, to find the spots that might make the most interesting shots. If there is a location where the runners will be coming out of some trees into the light, that can be nice. Don't be afraid to pan the camera as a runner runs by, getting them mostly in focus and blurring the background.

Eventually, you will want two bodies, so you can have one body with a long lens like a 100-400 and another body with a wide lens. As the runners approach, you can switch to the wide lens body as they go by.

Don't ignore the "color" shots before and after the run: people talking, drinking, putting on race numbers, collapsed or resting in the grass etc.
 

Roo

EOS 6D MK II
Sep 12, 2013
898
109
Melbourne
unfocused said:
I would also suggest working on your technique while you decide if you want a different camera. They more you shoot the better you will become and the less the camera will matter (but with sports, the camera does matter, no denying that).

For running, pick a spot where the route curves, so that you can shoot the runners more head on as they approach the curve. It is easier to focus on a moving subject coming towards you than one that is parallel to you. It will also make for more interesting shots.

Look for dips in the road, spots where you can shoot from higher up and catch the runners as they come uphill (when they will also be running a little more slowly).

Whenever possible, scout the route in advance, to find the spots that might make the most interesting shots. If there is a location where the runners will be coming out of some trees into the light, that can be nice. Don't be afraid to pan the camera as a runner runs by, getting them mostly in focus and blurring the background.

Eventually, you will want two bodies, so you can have one body with a long lens like a 100-400 and another body with a wide lens. As the runners approach, you can switch to the wide lens body as they go by.

Don't ignore the "color" shots before and after the run: people talking, drinking, putting on race numbers, collapsed or resting in the grass etc.
+1 - While the 6D wouldn't be considered the best choice for sports it's not incapable. Dawid posts to this thread and uses the 6D for the various sports he shoots. http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=23146.0