6d
- Thread starter 1255
- Start date
Just adding my 2 cents into this thread. I am a college student and therefore have a lot less money in the pot. So I had been wanting to upgrade for some time now and some very good friends let me borrow a 6D and a 70-200. After shooting an entire wedding, I felt completely confident that I did not need the 5DIII. Yes a couple of instances would be nice, but I found the super sensitive center point very helpful in the low-light conditions of the reception hall. Plus being able to use ISO 800 and 1600 without a single worry was nice. So I decided to buy a 6D and got it yesterday. I haven't been able to play too much with it, but I have already pushed the low-light during the wedding. I also used the extra $1000 to buy a Tamron 24-70 VC although the first copy was super soft and am in the process of exchanging for a second.
So overall, I felt the advantages of the 5DIII didn't outweigh the cost benefit of getting a new lens and a new body for the same price as the 5DIII body only.
So overall, I felt the advantages of the 5DIII didn't outweigh the cost benefit of getting a new lens and a new body for the same price as the 5DIII body only.
Upvote
0
I decided to buy the 6D and the 24-105L instead of just a 5D III body. After close to a year, I still think I made the right decision and I would do it again. Having said that, there are a few things that bother me with the 6D.
I really wish the focus points covered more of the view finder than they do. They seem to be clustered tightly round the middle and I'm doing much more focus and recompose than I used to with my old 20D.
I really really miss the thumb joy stick I had on my 20D. Changing focus points in a hurry is a two step process and using the rocker isn't as convenient in my mind as the joy stick.
I hope they fix this with a firmware update, but if you forget to turn off GPS (which I love) and don't use your camera for a few days, you will be in for a let down. It keeps draining the battery. How difficult would it be for it to automatically turn off and on?
I have had no problems with the focusing on the 6D but really don't understand why only one cross type.
In reading this, please remember that given the chance, I would buy the 6D again. Can you imagine shooting at ISOs over 6000? Took some 4th of July pictures at the fireworks display at ISO over 12,000 and was shocked to see how well the pictures turned out. Just ordered some big prints from Aluminyze it that turned out amazing.
I really wish the focus points covered more of the view finder than they do. They seem to be clustered tightly round the middle and I'm doing much more focus and recompose than I used to with my old 20D.
I really really miss the thumb joy stick I had on my 20D. Changing focus points in a hurry is a two step process and using the rocker isn't as convenient in my mind as the joy stick.
I hope they fix this with a firmware update, but if you forget to turn off GPS (which I love) and don't use your camera for a few days, you will be in for a let down. It keeps draining the battery. How difficult would it be for it to automatically turn off and on?
I have had no problems with the focusing on the 6D but really don't understand why only one cross type.
In reading this, please remember that given the chance, I would buy the 6D again. Can you imagine shooting at ISOs over 6000? Took some 4th of July pictures at the fireworks display at ISO over 12,000 and was shocked to see how well the pictures turned out. Just ordered some big prints from Aluminyze it that turned out amazing.
Upvote
0
Badger said:
I think you'll find that's a FF DSLR problem rather than a 6D problem. The 5DIII may have seven times as many focus points, but the overall area the cover on the viewfinder isn't much bigger; the same's true of the other FF cameras I've tried - Nikon D800 & D600. It does help a little that at the extremes the 5DIII has more points, but it makes less difference from that point of view than one might think. (If you really want to avoid focus/recompose, mirrorless seems to be the way to go at present. I'm not sure about the FF Sony mirrorless cameras, but on the M43 bodies I'm familiar with the focus points cover almost the entire screen.)
Upvote
0
Badger said:
+1 about the lack of a joystick on the 6D. After having a 40D and then 7D, I really miss it (in fact the 7D's ergonomics, AF system and speed make it useful enough for some things (to me) I'm hanging on to the 7D despite having a 6D). I feel sure Canon left off the joystick primarily to add to the factors differentiating the 6D from the 5DIII, but I really wish Canon had decided differently about that - whatever the limitations of the 6D's AF, at least with a joystick it would have made it easier to use the AF system to its fullest.
All of that said, I'm wondering what you mean about changing focus points being a two step process. I'm guessing you mean you have to press the "change AF point button" and then use the rocker to set the AF point you want ... If that's right, you might like to have a look in the 6D's custom settings. You can set it (as I have) so the rocker is always active to select AF points when the camera is in shooting mode. The rocker isn't as convenient as the joystick, but at least set up that way you don't have to waste time pressing the change AF point button first.
Upvote
0
jd7 said:
I have my rocker set like that too... I have also honed my back button focus skills which makes it much easier to recompose!!
Upvote
0
Janbo Makimbo said:
Thanks, that is exactly what I meant. Somewhere in the back of my mind, I thought there might be a custom function. Thanks again for the heads up. I'll go look for it. Still wish it had the joy stick, but this removes one step for me.
Upvote
0
I did not receive any comments at all on the story about my proving the solid build of the 6D. Maybe because the story was 'lost' at the bottom of page 1 in this thread. It stills proves that 6D is much more solid than some may assume.
Thank you for the tip about setting the rockers to move the focus points without first pressing 'change AF point' button. Very helpful for me, as I had missed that one.
Thank you for the tip about setting the rockers to move the focus points without first pressing 'change AF point' button. Very helpful for me, as I had missed that one.
Upvote
0
Sporgon said:
Valid point, and imho deliberate crippling (well, we can never tell...). But don't despair, I already requested this being done by Magic Lantern, if one of the devs doesn't implement it I'll add "center af on SET" myself to ml as it's such an annoyance:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8501.0
Upvote
0
Marsu42 said:
Quoting myself: I've just added "Center AF on SET" to Magic Lantern myself
... it'll be in the nightly builds sooner or later. Take that Nikon, I can program my dslr to do what I like, no dynamic range can beat that.Also you can now navigate in an alternative, imho better way with the multicontroller, it doesn't go to "all af points" anymore and you can get from middle to the extreme corners with fewer clicks.
Upvote
0
PKinDenmark said:One very bad - and in the end also positive - experience.
I can now testify, that the 6D body has proven to be absolutely robust and solid.
This is based on a nightmare type of experience (could also be reported in the post about 'dont ever do this'):
I was setting up in my basement for a special shoot in the garden using a Canon 24 mm TS/E and tripod.
The camera with the TS/E was mounted on the tripod at about 4 feet above the concrete floor.
Then I moved the column of the tripod to a horizontal position (my Manfrotto tripod allows that) and turned around to fix something else. Then a heard a grueling crash. The tripod had tipped over, and the camera hit the floor.
Stupid me overlooking that the center of gravity had shifted slightly outside the support of the tripod.
Examining the camera and optics, I noted that the whole setup had landed on the upper right corner of the body, and there were marks from the impact on the floor as well as on the 6D body.
No dents - only paint-scrapes. The lens did not show any marks, so the camera took the full blow.
With shaking hands I examined the camera further, the lens, the mount etc. Nothing visibly affected.
Then testing the function of both - all seem to work perfectly well and normal. And they still do. Even focus as well as image sharpness over the whole image seems to be unaffected.
Conclusions:
1. Now I have tried it - so you don't have to do it yourselves.
2. The 6D body - including the upper part which is said to be made from some sturdy plastic material - is rock solid
3. The 24 TS/E did well, too.
4. Considering the weight of this lens, the mount between lens and body stood the test as well.
5. The laws of Newton even applies for FF bodies - and for TS/E lenses. (although I am sure he did not consider that specifically). So I will not challenge those laws any further.
If you have any suggestions for what to test further - and how - to verify that the equipment is actually not affected in any way, please suggest these to me.
PS: As to the other virtues of the 6D I have posted my (less grueling) experiences in other posts - I guess all of these are linked above.
something to help
Attachments
Upvote
0
