CHL said:I would appreciate your thoughts/advice on this. I have the 70-200 f/2.8 L IS (and the 85 f/1.8, 24-105 f/4 L, 35 f/1.4 L, TS-E 24 f/3,5L) and I mainly use them on a 5D MKII (have a 40D as well). I am very interested in getting the 135 f/2.0 but I am struggling with whether to buy that lens or sell the 70-200 in favour of the MKII version. And I can´t currently do both. I would say I am fairly "general" in my photography (means indoor low light, street, portrait, grandchildren......... rarely sports).
Thanks in advance.
JR said:This is a really difficult question indeed CHL! I have the mk II version of the 70-200 2.8 zoom and the IQ is preatty much on par with the 135L, minus the extra stop that the 135 provide you. I am getting the 135 anyway because I am looking for something lighter to carry.
I dont have experience with the version I of the 70-200mm zoom but I am told (and you cant read in these forums) the current version was a big improvement in the IQ. If you already find you use the 70-200mm zoom a lot for your purposes, I would think you might be better getting the mk II first instead of getting the 135L.
Keep in mind if you buy it before Dec 31st at B&H you get $400 off! ($1974). This is a good buy! (the link is on the main CR page).
Hope this helps.
Crapking said:Ditto Candyman's request! I have been shooting the 70-200 2.8 II IS for over a year with the 7D and am very happy, but JUST got the 135 and haven't had the chance yet to get into the gym (volleyball).
I was wondering if anyone has experienced some handheld camera shake with the 135? The 70-200 "IS" has given me no trouble, but the 135 (w/o my usual monopod), seems sl less stable.
briansquibb said:Crapking said:Ditto Candyman's request! I have been shooting the 70-200 2.8 II IS for over a year with the 7D and am very happy, but JUST got the 135 and haven't had the chance yet to get into the gym (volleyball).
I was wondering if anyone has experienced some handheld camera shake with the 135? The 70-200 "IS" has given me no trouble, but the 135 (w/o my usual monopod), seems sl less stable.
Logic says keep the shutter at 1/250 or higher and you will be fine. Try panning at 1/100 for different effects.
Crapking said:What is your recommended settings on a 7D while panning? In particular, AF selection points / mode? I am used to low-light gyms, so end up using M, auto ISO (1600 - 3200), f2.8 and 1/500-1/1000 with AI Servo - Hi speed continuous, Zone selection on my 70-200 2.8 II. With the 135, hoping to bring the ISO down a little.
If I were to pan during a volleyball serve, what settings should I change? I'd love to learn to blur the background beyond my lens' bokeh.
Here are some 70-200 shots, sorry to go off thread but to compare with 135 shots I'll post next week from our next practice.
http://albums.phanfare.com/slideshow.aspx?i=1&db=1&pw=uIK3E4dn&a_id=5412204
candyman said:Is there anyone able to post some indoor sports photos that were taken with an APS-C camera - like 7D?
funkboy said:candyman said:Is there anyone able to post some indoor sports photos that were taken with an APS-C camera - like 7D?
Well, I don't have sports shots taken with it, but I ran a series of test landscape shots with my 40D and 135L a few years ago (10 shots at each 1/3 stop shutter speed, incrementing from 1/200 to 1/500). I found that in order to consistently get pixel-peeper-sharp handheld landscape shots completely free of motion blur I needed to be at at least 1/400th of a second. Don't get me wrong, I got plenty of good ones below that, but in order for me to really get it right & make it look like it was shot from a tripod almost all the time 1/400th is where I needed to be. That may just be the way it is for me, & that's without a monopod or a tree to lean on or anything.
Now for sports with a 7D it's certainly going to be different. Fist of all you have almost double the pixels of my 40D, but of course "acceptably sharp" will depend on your output resolution (even if you're not rock-solid at the pixel level). In terms of acceptable motion blur & sharpness, what passes for acceptable in sports photography & landscape photography are two very different things (unless of course your clients are printing your sports shots at A3 or larger on a regular basis...). You can really crank the ISO on that 7D in order to keep your shutter speed up, and sports shots are so much more about the moment than about the technical quality of the image. Not saying that the images need to be less good, but you can certainly get away with a lot more.
But the biggest advantage you have vs. landscape photography is that your subjects are usually moving. Like some other folks here have said, if your panning technique is good & you can follow the motion of the subject really closely, you should be able to cut that speed requirement down to 1/100th or so, maybe even less if you've practiced a lot at following your subjects it & really get it right (a lot also depends on the speed of your subject).
Crapking said:Finally got into the underlit gym with my 7D and 135L. Girls basketball (not my usual subjects), but I must say the 135 outperformed my 70-200 2.8 II. Mostly shot wide open and got the ISO down to 800/1600 and sometimes 3200 with shutter speeds 1/750 or 1/1000. I'm happy looking at my screen, though these compressed images don't do it justice.
These were all handheld, no monopod, M, AI servo, zone select, f2, autoISO, and shutter speed adjusted via viewfinder exposure meter.
distant.star said:Pretty good stuff, crap. You're not a sports photog yet, and never will be with the 135, but this lens turns out more intimate people images than anything I know -- even in a sports setting!
Thanks for showing.