Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM

[Jack Douglas]

Me neither although it does take a few days. But seriously 300 X2 is a pretty good compromise.

Jack

 

[eml58]

Me neither although it does take a few days. But seriously 300 X2 is a pretty good compromise.

Jack

I agree, if the 2x is going to work well, it's going to do it on the 300f/2.8 L II, I don't think Canon make a sharper Lens, possible exception might, I do say might, be the 200f/2

I don't think I've ever tried a converter on the 200f/2, I'm generally using it @ f/2 and looking for as sharp an Image as possible, I have used both the 1.4x & 2x converters at times with the 300 though and they seem to work very well on this Lens, especially the 1.4x.

The other Lens where I've found the converter works exceptionally well has been the 600f/4 II with the 1.4x

 

[Dylan777]

With 300mm, I now don't have to chase after them ;D

I wouldn't take that Bet.

About 600mm or 200-400mm w/ 1.4 TC? :

How you like your A7r so far eml58?

I might have to hold off the A7 purchase, since the "itch" for 600mm has just started ;D

 

[JPAZ]

used a 2x Converter (loss of IQ), bright sunlight & used ISO1600 then had to combine that with a very fast shutter speed to counter act the High ISO & used 1/4000th.

All these small issues combine to give a pixelated area where you would normally have that smooth blurred out Bokeh.

My best shot at an answer......

Yeah, thanks. I am always learning something. Were I to do that shot over again, I'd lower the iso and maybe "bracket" with different apertures (and therefore differing shutter speeds). This was my first real attempt at a photo outing like this (I am more accustomed to people at a closer distance who move a lot less). I'm just doing PP on these and am critiquing myself a lot. Next time I try something like this, I think I'll do better.

But maybe I'll try to do something with this background in post......

 

[mackguyver]

Many incredible shots. As I said the other day, I am just going through my pics from Bosque del Apache. Here's a hand-held 300 with the 2xiii. I've done no PP other than reducing a JPEG to post here.

I've a question for all of you. I know the focus is not 100% but the background looks weird to me. Do you think the grass behind the birds looks a bit funny? If so, why?

FYI, f8, 1/4000, iso 1600 5diii with 300 f/2.8ii+2xiii

I think the grass looks completely normal - it's just out of focus. The texture going from normal to blurred is why it looks a bit odd - particularly because you shot it at f/8 so it didn't completely blow it out.

I received my lens last week.

I must've missed your post - congrats on the new lens!

 

[JPAZ]

I think the grass looks completely normal - it's just out of focus. The texture going from normal to blurred is why it looks a bit odd - particularly because you shot it at f/8 so it didn't completely blow it out.

Thanks

 

[Dylan777]

I received my lens last week.

I must've missed your post - congrats on the new lens!

Thanks mackguyver,
Should have pull trigger sooner

 

[eml58]

How you like your A7r so far eml58?

I might have to hold off the A7 purchase, since the "itch" for 600mm has just started ;D

Hi Dylan, I like the size, I like the Lens (Zeiss 35f/2.8), I like the Image Files the Camera takes, I like the menu system, in fact there's a lot to like about the a7r, but.

I really don't like the EVF, I may get to like it, but I don't think so.

Good friend of mine is a Leica M9 Owner, loves his Leica Lenses, bought the a7r same time as I did, compared to the M9 he's in Love with a7r, thinks the EVF is just wonderful.

As a support system to my 1Dx/5DMK III and Lenses, for those times when you want a smaller form Body & a couple of lenses, Shooting street scenes in Tokyo/Istanbul etc, I think the a7r has merit.

I'de like to try the a7r in an Underwater Housing, but I'm just not convinced re the EVF set up, that "lag" you get when looking through the viewfinder is a PIA, similar to why I dislike Point & Shoot Cameras with that lag you get between pushing the button & taking the image.

But I can see the minute Canon bring out the long awaited High MP 1 Series Body, my seeking a small form back up Body may just fly out the window.

I'm thinking my eldest Son needs a near new a7r.

 

[Jack Douglas]

Hey Edward,

I think I need it more than your son!

Jack

 

[eml58]

Hey Edward,

I think I need it more than your son!

Jack

Hi Jack, well I haven't had it quite long enough to gives up on it yet, problem is always going to be the 1Dx & even the 5DMK III are a hard act to follow. The a7r for me was always a potential replacement for the 5DMK III, not in Sony's wildest dreams could it replace the 1Dx and what I use that Camera for, and of course that's not what it's aimed at.

The a7r is definitely a nice Camera and I do love the ability to use Zeiss AF Lenses, but that EVF is a bit strange when your not used to it, get past this & it's a pretty nice piece of gear.

 

[neuroanatomist]

Now, a 300 question that's been bugging me for a while. The camera strap is off when I shoot with the 300 but really should be on when I switch to the 24-70, which is not that often. Anyone have a solution to this that doesn't involve threading the strap back on the camera, and works well?

I use the Black Rapid RS-7 and have two screws for that one. One on the foot on the lens (70-200mm) and one on the camera itself. In Sweden the separate screw is a bit expensive for just being a screw but it´s worth it =) It makes it very easy to change where I attach the strap when changing lenses. I really hate the original strap since I bought the Black Rapid. But maybe the 300mm is too expensive and heavy to be comfortable using together with the Black Rapid RS-7.

I use a different solution. Rather than screwing Blackrapid FasterR lugs into body and lens, I have the lug attached (semi-permanently, with Loctite Blue) to a small Kirk 1" Arca-Swiss type clamp. Since I have lens plates or replacement feet on all collared lenses, as well as an L-bracket for the body, that enables me to attach the Blackrapid strap wherever I want, switching it around very easily.

 

[Eldar]

Now, a 300 question that's been bugging me for a while. The camera strap is off when I shoot with the 300 but really should be on when I switch to the 24-70, which is not that often. Anyone have a solution to this that doesn't involve threading the strap back on the camera, and works well?

I use the Black Rapid RS-7 and have two screws for that one. One on the foot on the lens (70-200mm) and one on the camera itself. In Sweden the separate screw is a bit expensive for just being a screw but it´s worth it =) It makes it very easy to change where I attach the strap when changing lenses. I really hate the original strap since I bought the Black Rapid. But maybe the 300mm is too expensive and heavy to be comfortable using together with the Black Rapid RS-7.

I use a different solution. Rather than screwing Blackrapid FasterR lugs into body and lens, I have the lug attached (semi-permanently, with Loctite Blue) to a small Kirk 1" Arca-Swiss type clamp. Since I have lens plates or replacement feet on all collared lenses, as well as an L-bracket for the body, that enables me to attach the Blackrapid strap wherever I want, switching it around very easily.

Another option is the Carry Speed,
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Carry-Speed-FS-Pro-Telephoto-Connector/dp/B00B1EW60G
It is attached to the camera with an Arca Swiss compatible plate and you can take the strap on and off fairly easy. It also have a second strap, which you can attach to your lens, if it´s a big one.

 

[eml58]

I use a different solution. Rather than screwing Blackrapid FasterR lugs into body and lens, I have the lug attached (semi-permanently, with Loctite Blue) to a small Kirk 1" Arca-Swiss type clamp. Since I have lens plates or replacement feet on all collared lenses, as well as an L-bracket for the body, that enables me to attach the Blackrapid strap wherever I want, switching it around very easily.

I read Neuro's solution sometime ago on another thread re the same subject, I basically did the same, but used the RRS Lever Clamp attached to the Black Rapid Strap, using the locktite. I have RRS replacement feet on all my Whites, and use Wimberley Plates on the 70-200 & other lenses, I've been really happy with this solution, for extra comfort/safety you can also attach a separate short strap through the loop of the Black Rapid and attach to the L Plate.

 

[kaihp]

I spent the last three evenings practising this lens on the fashion shows in the local mall (they run all week).

Still trying to get to understand how to set up the 5D3 AF system as I can't get it to focus consistently - these models aren't exactly moving like a Peregrine falcon in full dive, and I'm not even getting a keeper rate over 30%.

 

[mackguyver]

My suggestion would be to try the following:

Set Case 1, 61-point automatic selection AF, and set the initial AF point to where the model's face will appear when she walks out on stage. Pre-focus in that area (you can pre-set it on the lens), wait for the model, with your finger on the shutter and thumb on the (back button) AF button. When the model enters the frame, lock focus on her face, WAIT FOR THE RED LIGHT CONFIRMATION, and the fire away in high (or maybe better, low) speed drive mode.

I haven't shot runway in many years, but your other option (the only option I had back in the day) is to use one-shot AF and hit the key moments of the model's walk, stop, turn, and any other special moments (like a look back or jacket over the shoulder).

 

[Menace]

My suggestion would be to try the following:

Set Case 1, 61-point automatic selection AF, and set the initial AF point to where the model's face will appear when she walks out on stage. Pre-focus in that area (you can pre-set it on the lens), wait for the model, with your finger on the shutter and thumb on the (back button) AF button. When the model enters the frame, lock focus on her face, WAIT FOR THE RED LIGHT CONFIRMATION, and the fire away in high (or maybe better, low) speed drive mode.

I haven't shot runway in many years, but your other option (the only option I had back in the day) is to use one-shot AF and hit the key moments of the model's walk, stop, turn, and any other special moments (like a look back or jacket over the shoulder).

+1

 

[wickidwombat]

My suggestion would be to try the following:

Set Case 1, 61-point automatic selection AF, and set the initial AF point to where the model's face will appear when she walks out on stage. Pre-focus in that area (you can pre-set it on the lens), wait for the model, with your finger on the shutter and thumb on the (back button) AF button. When the model enters the frame, lock focus on her face, WAIT FOR THE RED LIGHT CONFIRMATION, and the fire away in high (or maybe better, low) speed drive mode.

I haven't shot runway in many years, but your other option (the only option I had back in the day) is to use one-shot AF and hit the key moments of the model's walk, stop, turn, and any other special moments (like a look back or jacket over the shoulder).

I would go with zone over 61 pt auto

 

[mackguyver]

I would go with zone over 61 pt auto

If he was shooting with a wider lens, I would agree, but given that he's using the 300mm, he's going to fill the frame pretty quickly and zone AF might be a bit limiting from a compositional standpoint.

 

[Arkarch]

Recently got the 300 f/2.8L IS II USM and loving it. Given the battleship construction; weight relative to what it is; and sports-centric modes and features, I have no regrets making a capital investment in this lens. This thing is a thoroughbred!

I use it primarily for motorsports of all types and tracks. Sometimes it can be too close (NHRA top fuel dragsters tend to be long in the frame) and I got to run back to the 70-200.. But for pure adrenaline-infused shots, its the go-to.

I also use it with the TC-III 1.4 and 2.0. I find very little IQ loss with the 2.0 - it is well matched and makes a fine wildlife lens. I did try stacking with the 12mm extension tube - then it goes soft.

But here is a question.... Exposure Compensation creep on a 5Dm3 with the 300. I set everything up, running sometimes in Av or Tv modes - and after a handful of shots I see the exposure comp go up by a few stops. And its not just reporting - the shots go over. I found myself really having to monitor and reset back to zero. My other lenses do not cause the 5D to exhibit this behavior.

Any ideas?

 

[mackguyver]

But here is a question.... Exposure Compensation creep on a 5Dm3 with the 300. I set everything up, running sometimes in Av or Tv modes - and after a handful of shots I see the exposure comp go up by a few stops. And its not just reporting - the shots go over. I found myself really having to monitor and reset back to zero. My other lenses do not cause the 5D to exhibit this behavior.

Any ideas?

Congrats on the new lens and that is an odd thing, but I'm not sure I understand what's happening. Are you saying that the exposure compensation setting is going up by itself? I don't think that's possible - maybe you're bumping it because of the way you're holding the lens, which might also explain why it doesn't happen with other, smaller lenses. Maybe I'm not understanding your question, though.