Although the "cinematic" look involves more than 24p vs 30p (Sutter speed 180° rule is essential, the colors palette and lighting, to mention the most important ones)
You can get filters that add grain and scratches.
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Although the "cinematic" look involves more than 24p vs 30p (Sutter speed 180° rule is essential, the colors palette and lighting, to mention the most important ones)
You can get filters that add grain and scratches.
I'm still trying to get the point of shooting in 24p if it is to make it look cinematic, but not like movies.
Yes, that’s what I would have thought the English would mean, too.As far as I understand English, cinematic refers to movie-look, especially when shot on real film
Apparently the autofocus on the original G5X was not that swift, according to this review.
The college here was playing Georgetown in football yesterday. The G5X II is not the camera that anyone would choose for sports photography, but I decided to take it along, more to help me learn to use the camera in real situations than to test it. It was almost 90 degrees in the shade, and I'm sure much worse than that out on the field and in the stands. Normally we play our first month's games at night, but Georgetown didn't want to spend the night here, so the game was set for 1 pm. I'm invited to a gridiron club area in the end zone for barbecue and drinks and can stay in that area if I wish. Yesterday, I stayed there where there were tents for shade and free liquids. I ventured out into the sun to watch certain plays, and a few of those times I shot some video.
I had not done anything to prepare the camera settings, so when I started shooting, I found that I needed to move into the shade so I could read menus. Some autofocus modes don't permit you to set the video for 4K, and if you switch to one of those, it reverts to 1080p. I should have just put the camera into manual focus and left it. Much of the action I shot was at the other end of the field, roughly 100 yards away, so anything past the hyperfocal setting would have made everything in focus anyway, especially given the short actual focal length of the lens even zoomed in (44mm), and the lens stopped down for the bright sun. But instead I used the autofocus that works with 4K. I did find the autofocus to be somewhat sluggish a couple of times, more so than I would expect with my G7X II.
With the sun almost directly overhead, the screen was about useless. I still haven't managed to get the EVF in good focus. The diopter setting is too fussy, so I go too far one way or another. Maybe I just have a bad one. I didn't have much trouble getting the EVF focused on the one I messed with at the store. Maybe I was just luckier then. I could see well enough through it yesterday to frame the image. (OK, so now I just went to the camera and tried just putting the lever in the middle rather than trying to set it by eye, and the viewfinder is much clearer now.) My other problem with the set up was that I would accidentally touch the screen somewhere in the corner between clips sometimes, so when I went back to shooting, it was trying to focus on the ground near me, and doing a pretty good job with that. So the biggest problems had to do with the inexperience with it of the photographer, who has also not figured out the optimal settings to get what I want. I should have known enough already to preset menu items before venturing into the blazing sun.
When I shoot 4K in real life it will almost always be to give me options for cropping, zooming, and panning in post to produce 1080p or even smaller to embed on a web page (960 x 540 works well). And so I edited some of these clips in FCP X using magnification up to 200%. (Shouldn't that be like a 100% crop at 1080p?) The original clips from the camera look really sharp, at least after the focus kicked in, when viewed on my 5K monitor. I sent a one-minute 4K .mov file to YouTube, and after they mangled and compressed it, it looked like this:Although they are the visitors, Georgetown is wearing white. They have possession of the ball on the first few clips seen across the field. The score was tied at 20-all at the end of the third quarter. The play near me shows Davidson's winning touchdown, but you can't tell much given the official and the players in the way of my view. I end with the extra point.
I don't know how much about the camera you can tell from the YouTube post. Maybe some of my description of the experience can be of interest. This is not the camera you want to buy to shoot sporting events, but you knew that. And it doesn't have 48p, so you are not going to be asked to shoot The Hobbit, Part IV: The Next Generation or the like with it.
The college here was playing Georgetown in football yesterday. The G5X II is not the camera that anyone would choose for sports photography, but I decided to take it along, more to help me learn to use the camera in real situations than to test it. It was almost 90 degrees in the shade, and I'm sure much worse than that out on the field and in the stands. Normally we play our first month's games at night, but Georgetown didn't want to spend the night here, so the game was set for 1 pm. I'm invited to a gridiron club area in the end zone for barbecue and drinks and can stay in that area if I wish. Yesterday, I stayed there where there were tents for shade and free liquids. I ventured out into the sun to watch certain plays, and a few of those times I shot some video.
I had not done anything to prepare the camera settings, so when I started shooting, I found that I needed to move into the shade so I could read menus. Some autofocus modes don't permit you to set the video for 4K, and if you switch to one of those, it reverts to 1080p. I should have just put the camera into manual focus and left it. Much of the action I shot was at the other end of the field, roughly 100 yards away, so anything past the hyperfocal setting would have made everything in focus anyway, especially given the short actual focal length of the lens even zoomed in (44mm), and the lens stopped down for the bright sun. But instead I used the autofocus that works with 4K. I did find the autofocus to be somewhat sluggish a couple of times, more so than I would expect with my G7X II.
With the sun almost directly overhead, the screen was about useless. I still haven't managed to get the EVF in good focus. The diopter setting is too fussy, so I go too far one way or another. Maybe I just have a bad one. I didn't have much trouble getting the EVF focused on the one I messed with at the store. Maybe I was just luckier then. I could see well enough through it yesterday to frame the image. (OK, so now I just went to the camera and tried just putting the lever in the middle rather than trying to set it by eye, and the viewfinder is much clearer now.) My other problem with the set up was that I would accidentally touch the screen somewhere in the corner between clips sometimes, so when I went back to shooting, it was trying to focus on the ground near me, and doing a pretty good job with that. So the biggest problems had to do with the inexperience with it of the photographer, who has also not figured out the optimal settings to get what I want. I should have known enough already to preset menu items before venturing into the blazing sun.
When I shoot 4K in real life it will almost always be to give me options for cropping, zooming, and panning in post to produce 1080p or even smaller to embed on a web page (960 x 540 works well). And so I edited some of these clips in FCP X using magnification up to 200%. (Shouldn't that be like a 100% crop at 1080p?) The original clips from the camera look really sharp, at least after the focus kicked in, when viewed on my 5K monitor. I sent a one-minute 4K .mov file to YouTube, and after they mangled and compressed it, it looked like this:Although they are the visitors, Georgetown is wearing white. They have possession of the ball on the first few clips seen across the field. The score was tied at 20-all at the end of the third quarter. The play near me shows Davidson's winning touchdown, but you can't tell much given the official and the players in the way of my view. I end with the extra point.
I don't know how much about the camera you can tell from the YouTube post. Maybe some of my description of the experience can be of interest. This is not the camera you want to buy to shoot sporting events, but you knew that. And it doesn't have 48p, so you are not going to be asked to shoot The Hobbit, Part IV: The Next Generation or the like with it.
American football is played in short bursts followed by a lot of standing around. So no clip I shot was longer than 30 seconds. The camera had plenty of time to recover, so even out in bright sunlight on a 90º day (33º C) the camera did not have much chance to overheat (unlike the photographer). Even back under the tent, a woman collapsed. Fortunately, there are many medical doctors among Davidson alumni, so one who was nearby revived her and was asking her protocol-type questions by the time the medics stationed at the game came over.
But back to the camera. I did not do any zooming during shooting. The zoom does not work during a shot, as far as I know. All the zooming you see was done in software. That still speaks well of the camera in that there is enough resolution to blow the picture to twice its size.
Thanks. So it's just zooming with the ring that doesn't work during recording? As I said, I'm learning how to use the camera, even though I've been using a very similar camera for nearly three years. Part of my experience with the G7X II is that zooming with the little lever is clumsy enough while shooting and the camera light enough that any video shot during the zoom is almost surely unusable and gets cut out. Once it lands on the new focal length, it is fine, so it is still good to know I can keep the camera running while I reframe the shot. This is just my travel camera, so if I'm using a tripod and wanting to have usable optical zooming during video, I'll use my DSLR. That said, I take many more pictures with the travel camera than with the DSLR, so it is worth it to me to get the best camera for my purposes that will also fit in my pocket. On my trip to Denmark and Sweden, I shot over 900 stills and just one video, which came on the last full day I was there. So video is not that great a concern for me. However, if I learn how to shoot video better with this camera, I will perhaps shoot more of it. There is another football game here Saturday, so perhaps I will take the camera along for more practice.
You do know the camera has a built-in ND filter? There's not really that much use for a UV filter with digital cameras, so I understand, except to protect the lens. I almost always used one when shooting color film, and I have one that will fit some of my lenses, but I never bother with it. I think I bought it out of habit when I got my first Rebel. Polarizers are great. I have a 77mm one that fits several of my lenses, I think, but I don't use it that often. Moving the "Highlights" slider toward the left in Camera Raw takes care of darkening the sky enough for me most of the time. I realize there are many other uses for the filter, and I have it when I need it on the lenses it will fit.
Now that I have finally focused the viewfinder, I don't think I'll want a loupe. I've got along without one on my previous viewfinderless cameras, and I use touching the screen to pick focus spots.
As for 4K quality, when I consider that the YouTube video represents footage blown up 110% to 200% and then mangled through YouTube's compressions, it looks surprisingly good viewed full screen on my 5K screen from less than two feet away.
If you like, I can in a day or two post a small excerpt from my original 4K footage for your perusal. As I've said, I shoot 4K video mainly to have more to work with when editing. I have both Final Cut Pro X and Premiere, so good editing tools are at hand, and the computer has no problem keeping up with the 4K.
That does raise the issue of when I might still use 1080p. That works in modes and at speeds that are not supported in 4K.
Within the rough limits of my measurements, the lens housings appear to be identical in size. The outer diameter is 4 cm. Inside around the lens is a rounded rectangle which may be a little different. I need to remeasure to be sure, assuming that is the other measurement you want.