Did you get/treat yourself to anything new during the holidays?

jd7

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Feb 3, 2013
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Picked up a 40/2.8 pancake lens in the sales. I've owned one before but sold it after I got a 35/2 IS. My kit seems to have grown in size and weight over the last couple of years though (switched 35/2 IS for Sigma 35 Art, 85/1.8 for Sigma 85/1.4 EX, etc) so I decided having one small, light lens for casual use would be good.

Thought about an EOS R (mainly because of what I've been reading about AF accuracy with wide apertures) and about a 16-35/4L IS, but decided to stick with DSLR (and in particular OVF) for now, and that I really don't need an UWA. Maybe one day.
 
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Valvebounce

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Apr 3, 2013
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Hi YuengLinger.
I have the YongNuo copy of the Canon CP-E2 and the lead goes the same way as yours, images of the newest offering from Canon has the cord oriented the same way! The 550ex that I have has the socket orientated to point the cable forwards too, it seems to be an ill thought out ‘feature’ unless it is so the cable isn’t in the way when you hold the camera up and look through the viewfinder?

Happy new year, Graham.

I bought an aftermarket power pack for my 600ex-rt (version 1) from Adorama. It appears to be identical to B&H's Bolt brand (as well as one branded Aodelan), but at a much better price. Works great with Eneloops, recycling extremely fast. Only con is the orientation of the plug that goes into the Speedlite--it seems backwards because it makes the cord stick out forward, which is especially awkward on-camera with shorter lenses. The cord, I think, should be pointing back towards the body, not drooping over the front of short lenses. (I wonder if Canon's has this same issue? For the price difference, I can live with it!) It does come with a nice pouch that can hang very nicely on a light stand (or comfortably on a belt).

From what I understand, though, this won't recycle fast enough on the newer 600ex-rt II, limited to only one shot per two seconds! Apparently the newer Speedlite has something in the firmware that only allows it to recycle ultra-fast on the newest version of Canon's own power pack. (Reminds me of after-market camera batteries and AF issues with Sigma lenses. Hmmm.)

Here's the link to the Adorama branded model: https://www.adorama.com/gxppcb12ca.html
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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I ordered myself a copy of the new book by photographer Paul Souders: Arctic Solitaire: A Boat, a Bay, and the Quest for the Perfect Bear

51%2BJxkQsTUL._SX399_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1680511041/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It came highly recommended by the Alaska Daily News. Hasn't yet arrived.

This book had its origins in the journals and notes I kept during four solo boat trips to Canada’s Hudson Bay, in the summers between 2012 and 2015. I went north to photograph polar bears, and at each day’s end, I scribbled down, in long hand, my experiences as a photographer and accident-prone boater. It is, at its heart, a personal recounting of my impressions and memories from travels during which I was often tired and afraid and very much alone.
These northern journeys began as a sort of lark: could I step out my front door and travel overland to the shores of a cold and mysterious sea, then head off by boat to see wild animals and have some adventures? I never thought to ask whether any of this was possible, advisable, or even strictly legal.
Anyone reading these words with a working knowledge of seamanship or boat mechanics will laugh or wince, as I do now, at my ineptitude. Think of this not as a how-to manual so much as a cautionary tale.
--Paul Souders.
Looks very good. If anybody has an Amazon credit to spend then I can't recommend 50 Portraits by Gregory Heisler highly enough, absolutely awesome book by one of the worlds greatest portrait shooters.
https://www.amazon.com/Gregory-Heis...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=0823085651
 
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Hi Jay.
As Don says, a tough camera.
Some of the very early units had a known issue, tilted sensor I think, and some will not have been fixed!
If it is an early unit (check the serial no) check for sharp focus across the frame after AFMA with the camera locked down and a flat target well lit (not flash as you want to allow the focus to work).
I’m sure there is plenty more info on this issue and what to look for, there was plenty here at the time, as well as lots of confusion on the web in general from people testing hand held on moving targets and joining the melee and creating miss information! o_O
After saying all that please don’t be disheartened. When they are good they are very good!
Also there are not stupid questions, just questions you don’t know the answer to until the third time you ask the same question! ;)(y)

Enjoy your new body, looking forwards to seeing some shots taken with it.

Cheers, Graham.
PS I got enough stuff I didn’t want to ensure that next time I provide a wish list with more on than just an EF 600 L (secondhand of course).. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

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What are the early numbers?
 
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Valvebounce

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Apr 3, 2013
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Hi Jay.
I don’t know the numbers, I do remember all the fuss over this issue and at one point thought maybe I had one of the faulty units, eventually concluded it was my inconsistent Sigma lens! :rolleyes: I get results which I consider me to be the limiting factor with L glass!
I would just do some test shots, make sure you set up perpendicular to a target and check that all four corners are equally sharp, from memory the faulty units showed significant differences across the frame.

I just tried searching for info here, didn’t get anything from the search, perhaps someone else can point you in the right direction?
I have checked google too, didn’t find anything in a few minutes looking, I’m sure there were people here who had to have cameras repaired due to this issue? I guess it may have been a “non issue”?

Cheers, Graham.

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What are the early numbers?
 
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Don Haines

Beware of cats with laser eyes!
Jun 4, 2012
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Hi Jay.
I don’t know the numbers, I do remember all the fuss over this issue and at one point thought maybe I had one of the faulty units, eventually concluded it was my inconsistent Sigma lens! :rolleyes: I get results which I consider me to be the limiting factor with L glass!
I would just do some test shots, make sure you set up perpendicular to a target and check that all four corners are equally sharp, from memory the faulty units showed significant differences across the frame.

I just tried searching for info here, didn’t get anything from the search, perhaps someone else can point you in the right direction?
I have checked google too, didn’t find anything in a few minutes looking, I’m sure there were people here who had to have cameras repaired due to this issue? I guess it may have been a “non issue”?

Cheers, Graham.
Focus on a flat target that is parallel to the camera. Use a point in a corner to AF the image, and check to see if the diagonally opposite corner is in focus. Repeat for the other 3 corners. This will tell you if your sensor and AF unit are mounted properly.
 
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Valvebounce

CR Pro
Apr 3, 2013
4,549
448
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Isle of Wight
Hi Don.
Can you confirm if this was a real issue and not fake news at the time?

Cheers, Graham.

Focus on a flat target that is parallel to the camera. Use a point in a corner to AF the image, and check to see if the diagonally opposite corner is in focus. Repeat for the other 3 corners. This will tell you if your sensor and AF unit are mounted properly.
 
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Don Haines

Beware of cats with laser eyes!
Jun 4, 2012
8,246
1,939
Canada
Hi Don.
Can you confirm if this was a real issue and not fake news at the time?

Cheers, Graham.
I have a friend who got in a 7D2 and it would not focus properly. If you centred on the object, the corners were out of focus. We thought it was because the sensor was not properly seated, he sent it back, and the replacement worked like a charm. Also, Focal ranked lenses as sharper on my camera than the same lens measured on his.
 
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Hi Jay.
As Don says, a tough camera.
Some of the very early units had a known issue, tilted sensor I think, and some will not have been fixed!
If it is an early unit (check the serial no) check for sharp focus across the frame after AFMA with the camera locked down and a flat target well lit (not flash as you want to allow the focus to work).
I’m sure there is plenty more info on this issue and what to look for, there was plenty here at the time, as well as lots of confusion on the web in general from people testing hand held on moving targets and joining the melee and creating miss information! o_O
After saying all that please don’t be disheartened. When they are good they are very good!
Also there are not stupid questions, just questions you don’t know the answer to until the third time you ask the same question! ;)(y)

Enjoy your new body, looking forwards to seeing some shots taken with it.

Cheers, Graham.
PS I got enough stuff I didn’t want to ensure that next time I provide a wish list with more on than just an EF 600 L (secondhand of course).. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

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Here's one of my early efforts at a women's hockey game. The cropping isn't anything to rave about, but the players behind the net and across the frame are all sharp. JPG conversion from RAW in DPP, no fixes in DPP, no crop. ISO 6400, 1/640 sec F5. AI Servo, Five points selected. The main point on the right bent knee of #19. The blue line to the right is a post. Lens Canon 70-200 F4 IS.
 

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Valvebounce

CR Pro
Apr 3, 2013
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Hi Jay.
Looks good to me, should serve you well.

Cheers, Graham.

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Here's one of my early efforts at a women's hockey game. The cropping isn't anything to rave about, but the players behind the net and across the frame are all sharp. JPG conversion from RAW in DPP, no fixes in DPP, no crop. ISO 6400, 1/640 sec F5. AI Servo, Five points selected. The main point on the right bent knee of #19. The blue line to the right is a post. Lens Canon 70-200 F4 IS.
 
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