Diffuser for Canon 600ex for event

My 2c.

Large and small Rogue Flashbender softbox kits are what you want.

The large kits are only good when you need to be portable to get onsite, but once onsite you are doing "fixed" type work, where they're on a stand or if you have an assistant to help handle them, they don't go on-camera. This requires a transmitter or flashgun that's talking to the other flashgun/softbox setups.

The small kit is what you want if you are solo and/or can't deal with lots of gear, or are on the run like at a wedding reception, you leave the flashgun on the camera with the flashbender on top.

I have both types, and they each have their uses, I highly recommend them for small/portable setups where you don't want to deal with umbrellas.
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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brianodell said:
RLPhoto said:
I second the Large Rogue Flashbender and the option to take the speedlite off camera. If you can get some help, A speedlite+umbrella on a mono-pod w/ an assistant moving it quickly through the event will be a life-saver if everything is black.

I'm in a similar situation, as the OP. I use a pair of Canon 580exii flashes though. I do have access to an assistant. So... what kind of umbrella would be ideal, and what size? Thank you!!

I use 32"-36" white shoot through. Don't get expensive ones as they are effectively disposable, even the good ones break or get damaged, and if they are much bigger they start hitting ceilings, light fittings and fans, or peoples heads! I prefer shoot through as the light just goes everywhere and there is no chance of having it at 'the wrong angle'.

Most people/assistants use monopods or collapsed lightstands to elevate the light but I use a converted painter pole as it is much more comfortable to hold for hours.
 
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LDS

Sep 14, 2012
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privatebydesign said:
Light is not magic, it is entirely dependent on the apparent size to the subject.

Correct - to achieve a soft light you need a light source that seen from the subject is large enough to light it from several directions at the same time. That's why bouncing works well - you get a huge reflector, the wall/ceiling themselves. You can increase the effect using "diffuser" that spread more flash light in different directions to have more light reflected by walls and ceilings. Just remember to throw enough directly to the subject to avoid unnnatural and unpleasant shadows. Some portable softboxes may be mounted on a portable handheld boom to be kept nearby the subject, but you then need a wireless trigger and an assistant.

Outdoor, you need to take advantage of natural reflectors (sky, walls, whatever), or artificial ones - there are some collapsible reflectors (i.e. Photoflex LitePanels, Lastolite Trigrip) that can be used effectively bouncing natural light, but they may need an assistant, especially the larger ones. Even a 600EX may be too dim outdoor but for some fii-in of near subjects. Using more than one unit on support designed for that may help to increase available light, but it can be expensive (although cheaper clones may be used as well).
 
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YuengLinger

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privatebydesign said:
brianodell said:
RLPhoto said:
I second the Large Rogue Flashbender and the option to take the speedlite off camera. If you can get some help, A speedlite+umbrella on a mono-pod w/ an assistant moving it quickly through the event will be a life-saver if everything is black.

I'm in a similar situation, as the OP. I use a pair of Canon 580exii flashes though. I do have access to an assistant. So... what kind of umbrella would be ideal, and what size? Thank you!!

I use 32"-36" white shoot through. Don't get expensive ones as they are effectively disposable, even the good ones break or get damaged, and if they are much bigger they start hitting ceilings, light fittings and fans, or peoples heads! I prefer shoot through as the light just goes everywhere and there is no chance of having it at 'the wrong angle'.

Most people/assistants use monopods or collapsed lightstands to elevate the light but I use a converted painter pole as it is much more comfortable to hold for hours.

I used to think the same way, pbd, but I've twice had lights saved by using slightly more expensive umbrellas--those made with fiberglass instead of hollow metal ribs. One was a Speedlite tipping over on concrete, the other was a Buff Einstein falling hard in a gust onto turf. In both cases, the fiberglass ribs cushioned the fall and the lights were not damaged in the slightest.

I've been using Westcotts, my favorite being this one:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63319-REG/Westcott_2016_Umbrella_White_Satin.html/prm/alsVwDtl


On the same page you'll see an Impact flash bracket, which is also what I use for Speedlites.

I'd suggest calling B&H or other merchant to confirm the ribs are still fiberglass, because materials, specs change.
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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I absolutely agree that for bigger umbrellas the money is often well spent on better build. But I was talking about the smaller models for VAL situations. Those don't benefit so much from the more expensive build and shouldn't be falling over, if they are you need a new VAL ;D

In the OP's specific situation I would be looking at $15 cheapies, I use [pro]master, and although my favourite umbrella is a convertible by PhotoFlex I don't rate the convertibles very highly as unless you have a decent amount of time converting them is not a quick process.
 
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YuengLinger said:
privatebydesign said:
brianodell said:
RLPhoto said:
I second the Large Rogue Flashbender and the option to take the speedlite off camera. If you can get some help, A speedlite+umbrella on a mono-pod w/ an assistant moving it quickly through the event will be a life-saver if everything is black.

I'm in a similar situation, as the OP. I use a pair of Canon 580exii flashes though. I do have access to an assistant. So... what kind of umbrella would be ideal, and what size? Thank you!!

I use 32"-36" white shoot through. Don't get expensive ones as they are effectively disposable, even the good ones break or get damaged, and if they are much bigger they start hitting ceilings, light fittings and fans, or peoples heads! I prefer shoot through as the light just goes everywhere and there is no chance of having it at 'the wrong angle'.

Most people/assistants use monopods or collapsed lightstands to elevate the light but I use a converted painter pole as it is much more comfortable to hold for hours.

I used to think the same way, pbd, but I've twice had lights saved by using slightly more expensive umbrellas--those made with fiberglass instead of hollow metal ribs. One was a Speedlite tipping over on concrete, the other was a Buff Einstein falling hard in a gust onto turf. In both cases, the fiberglass ribs cushioned the fall and the lights were not damaged in the slightest.

I've been using Westcotts, my favorite being this one:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63319-REG/Westcott_2016_Umbrella_White_Satin.html/prm/alsVwDtl


On the same page you'll see an Impact flash bracket, which is also what I use for Speedlites.

I'd suggest calling B&H or other merchant to confirm the ribs are still fiberglass, because materials, specs change.

Do you prefer to use these umbrellas shoot through, or as reflectors? Just wondering... And do you have any problems with the said bracket getting the speedlite close to the center of the shaft of the umbrella?
 
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pwp

Oct 25, 2010
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Ryan_ said:
privatebydesign said:
Mini softboxes are a POS, they are not worth the postage unless you can get them off camera and close, very close, to a small subject. The Rouge FlashBender isn't much better, especially on camera, but it is better in that it has more flexibility.
I guess thats where I'm getting lost. I can bend it, but whats so great about that as far as softening light? It seems pretty useful if you're under white ceilings or a tent cause then you're not wasting all that light going up, but what about for the outside shots with sky overhead? Use the flash vertical and use flash bender to reflect the bit of light it'll catch as fill? Or is bare flash at a low power fine for simple fill?

You're not wrong about mini softboxes for anything other than very close-up. Learned that a LONG time ago. OP, if you're working in white tents, then regular bounce should be fine. The FlashBender would be handy, as would the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro http://www.dembflashproducts.com/products/flash-diffuser/ I have two of these and like the hinged reflector to give instant adjustment, especially when mixing ceiling bounce with on-flash diffusers. Watch the videos on the Joe Demb site and you'll quickly get the idea.

I spent years wading through a ridiculous number of flash diffuser products; mini softboxes, just about everything Gary Fong ever released including the fragile but fairly effective, now discontinued Whale-Tail, Stofens, loads of home-made gadgets and half a dozen other products from now forgotten companies. I picked the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro over Rogue FlashBender because of the hinged reflector and the little front diffuser.

But it's worth realising that there is no magic bullet for compact on-flash diffusers. A small light-source is a small light-source and that's that. I like the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro system as it gives me the most flexibility when used with white ceiling bounce. Outdoors in full sun a bare 600EX-RT will struggle, especially in HSS mode...they just don't have the horsepower. Put a diffuser on and the struggle for power gets even greater. In full sun event-work I prefer to work with an assistant with something like a very gutsy Godox Witstro AD360 on a boom with a suitable diffuser (beauty dish, umbrella or even a regular 8 inch dish)
http://www.godox.com/EN/Products_Camera_Flash_Witstro_AD180&AD360_Powerfou&Portable_Flash.html

OP, you sound like a resourceful type of person. I'd advice you to keep it reasonably simple and set out to learn from the upcoming two day project. You'll be fine.

-pw
 
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pwp said:
Someone mentioned the Graslon Diffusers. Errgh!
Have a look at the "superior light" shots displayed on the Graslon homepage.
Hate to say it, but they clearly don't get it!
http://graslon.com/

-pw

Yeah...those example shots are terrible. Steer clear of any products made by a company that can't even produce good photography in the first place.
 
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agierke said:
pwp said:
Someone mentioned the Graslon Diffusers. Errgh!
Have a look at the "superior light" shots displayed on the Graslon homepage.
Hate to say it, but they clearly don't get it!
http://graslon.com/

-pw

Yeah...those example shots are terrible. Steer clear of any products made by a company that can't even produce good photography in the first place.

thanks for the constructive criticism, it was me who advise graslon.
I got one, but lately I find my flash not able to output enough power maybe because of this.
But output of graslon is surely soft.
I bought 600ex-rt two weeks ago, I just used the bounce card for the mean time.
Still, light a bit hard, will try other diffusers soon.

Thanks for this thread.
 
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I use two Joe Demb products and they are both excellent, so I second that recommendation for all reading the thread. And his web site is a good read.

http://www.dembflashproducts.com/products/flash-diffuser/

I have his mount-on-the-speedlight scoop that folds/rolls into a very portable shape. I use it when I see that the room I'm in has super-high and/or dark ceilings. Portability is a big part of its value, and it is made out of a sturdy thick stiff material.

OK, I see Joe calls it a "portrait dish".
http://www.dembflashproducts.com/instructions/portrait-dish/
 
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I find the Stofen diffuser works best for general purposes, but here's another option that I own that you might want to consider as well:

http://www.harbordigitaldesign.com/ultimatelightboxkit.aspx

It's not the cheapest product, but it's on sale at the moment, at least. It has a lot of options and produces nice results when this is your only option. For the size, it diffuses quite well and is better than many similar products I've tried over the years for event photography. Stay away from the fold in your pocket mini softboxes, they are lousy and don't hold up well.
 
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Lots of good advice here! Sounds like lots of Rogue Flashbender fans. Although I haven't used one personally, it seems like a very solid choice from everything I've seen.

For $5, you could definitely grab a Sto-Fen and have a play around with it. It's one of the most basic starter modifiers... like the nifty fifty of on-camera flash modifiers :p It's small and unobtrusive, even though you may outgrow it quickly, it's easy to keep in your bag when it's the right tool for the job. You can buy other modifiers as well, but for a few dollars, hard to go wrong with it.

For events (weddings) where I'm moving quickly around and have to be ready for out door, in door, in door without bounce-able surfaces, I usually run with the Sto-Fen and the flash head at 45 degrees up.

I get bounce flashes if the immediate surroundings allows for it, and if not, the flash head 45 degrees up creates a point of light slightly higher than bare flash. I find it's at least a little bit of a better angle for the light source (but worth noting you'll be expelling a lot of unnecessary battery power like this because you're wasting a lot of directional light). I find it's a decent compromise for the versatility.

Attached are a few examples of on-camera 600EX-RT with a Sto-Fen and the flash head @ 45 degrees up. High wood ceilings (~20 feet) so no bounce on these. I think it's decent considering it's essentially a direct flash- but 2" raised higher than a regular straight bare flash. I imagine you'd have better results with a Flashbender though :)
 

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YuengLinger

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andrewflo said:
Lots of good advice here! Sounds like lots of Rogue Flashbender fans. Although I haven't used one personally, it seems like a very solid choice from everything I've seen.

For $5, you could definitely grab a Sto-Fen and have a play around with it. It's one of the most basic st:)arter modifiers... like the nifty fifty of on-camera flash modifiers :p It's small and unobtrusive, even though you may outgrow it quickly, it's easy to keep in your bag when it's the right tool for the job. You can buy other modifiers as well, but for a few dollars, hard to go wrong with it.

For events (weddings) where I'm moving quickly around and have to be ready for out door, in door, in door without bounce-able surfaces, I usually run with the Sto-Fen and the flash head at 45 degrees up.

I get bounce flashes if the immediate surroundings allows for it, and if not, the flash head 45 degrees up creates a point of light slightly higher than bare flash. I find it's at least a little bit of a better angle for the light source (but worth noting you'll be expelling a lot of unnecessary battery power like this because you're wasting a lot of directional light). I find it's a decent compromise for the versatility.

Attached are a few examples of on-camera 600EX-RT with a Sto-Fen and the flash head @ 45 degrees up. High wood ceilings (~20 feet) so no bounce on these. I think it's decent considering it's essentially a direct flash- but 2" raised higher than a regular straight bare flash. I imagine you'd have better results with a Flashbender though :)

Very helpful! Great examples.
 
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I generally don't use a diffuser, but do use the clear thing that comes with the 600EX when bouncing -- the snap on thing that's meant to hold a gel. It's great for bouncing, and it does throw a little light forward. If I need to throw more light forward, I use the Demb flippy card.

White tents are great for bouncing. I've never seen a black tent. Off-camera flash and umbrellas are great, but not practical at many events.
 
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Feb 15, 2011
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First, off, what are you trying to accomplish? If it was me shooting the event, and it was outdoors under a tent, I'd be looking for something to provide fill flash - let the A/S/ISO do the heavy lifting and just fill for catchlights and to even out exposures on faces.

When I shoot events, I like the LumiQuest Pocket Bounce. It helps get the flash up a tad higher and evens out the light quite well, doesn't eat a bunch of output. If you want even softer, there's a version that has some diffusion in front of the Pocket Bounce. The Sto-Fen is OK, but without ceilings/walls to bounce, you might as well shoot straight-on, in my experience. It's useful in some situations, but if you're not bouncing, it's usually a battery eater.

Let's face it, when shooting events, an umbrella can be very unrealistic. It's a romantic view, but getting a flash off-camera in a way that is useful, versatile and doesn't trip people is often unrealistic, especially when working by yourself. This discussion of 40" vs. 50" umbrellas is quite amusing to me when often at events it's not about how hard the shadows are with a reflective white-lined umbrella compared to what you would have gotten with a shoot-through white - it's about capturing the moment, the expressions and the people your client wants. Good lighting is important, but amazing lighting isn't often appreciated.

Less time messing with your gear = more usable shots = happier clients.

And bring your Eneloops. :D
 
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