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Nice shots! In several, it looks like the onboard flash was used - one suggestion would be to use an external Speedlite with a diffuser for a softer, more flattering light.
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canonman
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If I might ask, why do you believe a direct "on-board" flash was used? If you look at the shadows, background and the skin its clear this was a bounce-flash with a Stofen type diffuser. This is as soft as it gets with a Stofen. The background would be a lot darker if I used the "pop up flash" on the 60D.
What I do is mainly impromptu street photography like these fashion shows at restaurants around NYC. There is no way I can set up lights, umbrellas, soft boxes, etc. in any of these venues and there is no rehearsals. Nothing is ever planned out. I mainly use a Gary Fong lightosphere along with a 580 EX II flash when possible. For this venue, I used a 430 EX with a Stofen attached for reasons of portability and manuevering around the venue. The 580 EX II and Fong is a bit unwieldy at times and not appropriate for every venue. If I do get lucky and there is some type of lighting then I will use some primes that I have with me.
What I do is mainly impromptu street photography like these fashion shows at restaurants around NYC. There is no way I can set up lights, umbrellas, soft boxes, etc. in any of these venues and there is no rehearsals. Nothing is ever planned out. I mainly use a Gary Fong lightosphere along with a 580 EX II flash when possible. For this venue, I used a 430 EX with a Stofen attached for reasons of portability and manuevering around the venue. The 580 EX II and Fong is a bit unwieldy at times and not appropriate for every venue. If I do get lucky and there is some type of lighting then I will use some primes that I have with me.
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With a couple of the shots, the lighting appeared quite direct and to my eye, a little unflattering. Looking at other shots, some did not have that same look yet flash was still used. I think it's most noticeable on the first shot (top left of your array), where the lighting seems uneven, compared to the shots immediately right or underneath that one, which seem much more evenly lit.
In some of the shots, it seems like the ceiling is too high and too dark for effective bounce flash.
The 60D and 17-55mm make a great combination, I think.
In some of the shots, it seems like the ceiling is too high and too dark for effective bounce flash.
The 60D and 17-55mm make a great combination, I think.
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I also noticed they were a bit harsh. I was going to PM you about it, but since someone else brought it up...
Assuming you don't want to go full manual on your flash:
Put the light sphere on the 430 (if you have the newer version that fits both 580&430), set your FEC (flash exposure compensation) to -1.
Or, don't set the head to 90deg, go up one click and the flash/camera will switch from direct to fill mode, but still be fully automatic (as in TTL vs. M). In direct mode the camera assumes the flash is primary light, and will often look quite harsh even with a diffuser. In fill mode the camera will meter primarily on available light, and use the flash for fill. (still put FEC to -1)
Assuming you don't want to go full manual on your flash:
Put the light sphere on the 430 (if you have the newer version that fits both 580&430), set your FEC (flash exposure compensation) to -1.
Or, don't set the head to 90deg, go up one click and the flash/camera will switch from direct to fill mode, but still be fully automatic (as in TTL vs. M). In direct mode the camera assumes the flash is primary light, and will often look quite harsh even with a diffuser. In fill mode the camera will meter primarily on available light, and use the flash for fill. (still put FEC to -1)
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bvukich said:
With my 5DII and a Speedlite, my decision is not whether to apply a negative FEC, but how much negative FEC to apply...usually anywhere from 2/3 to 1.5 stops.
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neuroanatomist said:
I use -1 as my starting point, and that's where it stays 90% of the time. The only time I've really had to change it is if I'm bouncing off a colored wall, and it's metering funny; or if I need to overpower a mixed light source.
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Cornershot
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Maybe you should try a different kind of flash bounce that works in those conditions. Big rooms are tough. Stoffen and Gary Fong only works when there are walls and ceilings to bounce off of. If you're just shooting in a high ceilinged room, they doesn't soften the light at all. I use one of the large Flashbenders and that works pretty well in big places but you have to be fairly close. Also, try slapping on a CTO gel onto your flash to match the ambient lighting and adjust your white balance to ease that orange cast. Maybe a smaller aperture to blur the background a bit.
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