Gear for August Eclipse

[Mt Spokane Photography]

We are planning to drive to southern Illinois, the eclipse path is less than 3 hours from where we live, so we should be able to do it in a day trip.

I was planning to use my 300 f/2.8 with 1.4 or 2.0x extenders (not sure which yet). My only other telelphoto lens is a 70-200 f/2.8 that I could use with a 77mm threaded filter, but even with the 2x extender, it comes up short. I might use both my 5DsR and M5 on separate tripods to get shots at different focal lengths.

I don't have any front element filter systems to fit the 300. Should I be looking to buy a flat filter and use gaffers tape to attach it? Any suggestions on what filter to use?

A very good discussion on Fred Miranda, as a result, I changed my mind about filters and now have a Orion filter on order. I'm going to put my Marumi filter up for sale as soon as I get the Orion. The reason is something I was not aware of, and that is that you need the filter as the sun is partially eclipsed, but must remove it during the total eclipse. Unscrewing a threaded filter is a very short time might be frustrating for someone like me who has a loss of feeling and control in his fingers. I'm hoping to use my iusb Camera2 to link to phone or tablet to view thru live view. I've fired it up, and have it ready to work on my tablet, now to find time to test it outside. Its overcast the rest of this week.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1491063/0?keyword=eclipse#14041582

 

[JPAZ]

First comment......NO, NO, NO, No, do not rely on anything other than a real solar filter! The potential for damage to your equipment or your eyes is very real!

Second comment.........+1 on Thousand Oaks. Their filters are relatively cheap and they work.

I've attached two images form a solar eclipse seen in the South Pacific in July 2010. My disclaimer, this was with a marginal tripod. Shot on my old 50D on while on the deck of a rolling ship. So you can extrapolate, I was using a 70-200 f/4 lens and then cropped.

The first is at near complete and the second is the "signet ring" shot when it is safe to remove the filter for a a bit.

Good luck.

 

[bholliman]

A very good discussion on Fred Miranda, as a result, I changed my mind about filters and now have a Orion filter on order. I'm going to put my Marumi filter up for sale as soon as I get the Orion. The reason is something I was not aware of, and that is that you need the filter as the sun is partially eclipsed, but must remove it during the total eclipse. Unscrewing a threaded filter is a very short time might be frustrating for someone like me who has a loss of feeling and control in his fingers. I'm hoping to use my iusb Camera2 to link to phone or tablet to view thru live view. I've fired it up, and have it ready to work on my tablet, now to find time to test it outside. Its overcast the rest of this week.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1491063/0?keyword=eclipse#14041582

Thanks! Excellent thread with a wealth of information.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

My Orion Solar Filter arrived today, it fits perfectly and securely on my 100-400mm lens. So, this morning, as expected, it was overcase. I patiently waited for the sun to peek thru a gap in the heavy clouds, and managed to convince myself that it was going to work. I used live view, but my old 1D MK III and 100-400L II moved too much in my shaky hands, and I did not bother to focus, just set the lens to the infinity mark, which was likely off, so I'm waiting for a day when the sun is out to take some in-focus photos.

It was cold and wind blowing strongly, so I did not take more than a few seconds. I like the coloring the filter gives. Its a glass filter rather than the film, so it should still be usable for many years to come.

I'm planning to try various ways of viewing, I have a LCD shade, a iphone, and a android tablet, I will probably use my 5D MK III rather than the 1D MK III, but the 1D was ready to grab.

I might consider using the 1D III with 70-200+2X and the 5D III with 100-400 MK II +1.4 TC. I now have two solar filters. The Orion can be quickly pulled off during the total eclipse while the Marumi screws on. I'd probably just foul things up trying to focus and use two different cameras during such a short period.

The Orion filter is very nice, it has foam to seal out external light, and goes on and off smoothly. I did not tighten the screws, Adhesive backed foam pads are included thich will keep it from scratching the lens barrel as well as providing friction so it can pull on and off smoothly but firmly. Since I'll be sliding it off for the totality, thats important.

I do wonder how DPAF would work for something like this, I won't rule out getting a DPAF camera well ahead of Aug 21.

 

[bholliman]

My Orion Solar Filter arrived today, it fits perfectly and securely on my 100-400mm lens.

Thanks for the update and images!

I ended up ordering a Thousand Oaks glass filter since Orion didn't have one the right size for my 300 f/2.8 II (5" OD). They haven't shipped yet, but I hope I get it fairly soon so I can experiment with it long before 8/21.

I might consider using the 1D III with 70-200+2X and the 5D III with 100-400 MK II +1.4 TC. I now have two solar filters. The Orion can be quickly pulled off during the total eclipse while the Marumi screws on. I'd probably just foul things up trying to focus and use two different cameras during such a short period.

I'm toying with the idea of using my 300 + 2x extender with my 5DsR and a borrowed 400 f/5.6 on my M5, but I have the same concern, trying to manage 2 cameras might be too much in the 150 seconds of totality. I want to enjoy the eclipse experience as well taking images. I plan to do plenty of practice, so hopefully that experience will tell me if I should try to use 2 cameras or not.

My 18-year-old son may also be going with me. If he does, he will probably want to shoot with his 6D. His only current lens is a 24-70 f/4 IS, so he will either be looking to rent a super tele or borrow my 70-200 if he plans to do more than environmental photography.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

Finally, sun is out this morning, no wind, so I am setting up.

First, I added the adhesive backed foam tape that was supplied with the filter. I did not like it, the screws tore thru it easily, so I put on some ordinary duct tape strips where the screws would hit, that seemed to work fine.

Then, I mounted camera and lens on my big tripod, even at 6"2, I must look up to see the rear of the camera. I have a sun shade on the LCD, and had no problem finding the sun at 400mm, it only fills a tiny amount of the screen. I tried live AF, but could not tell if it was focusing well (I think it did), and then manually focused with manual exposure. So, I got my first shot of the sun. I think I see a sun spot in the lower left corner, but it could be something else.

Now to try other methods of composing before adding TC's. Here is a heavy crop of the first photo.

 

[justawriter]

I know for my northern lights and meteor shower photos I shut off IS. Is that recommended for eclipse photos as well?

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

IS should not be needed unless you are on a wooden deck like me where it can help a little. I'll be on solid ground eventually, but using the deck is handy for me to go back and forth. I spent 2 hours today trying 1.4X and 2X TC's, various shutter speeds, and focus methods. I could not see well enough to manually focus, live AF was reasonably accurate, but it might be better. I tried the focus stacking program that I had for my IusbPort Camera2, but none of the 14 focus points were that good. A good exposure seemed easy to find, it will not be so easy during the totality. Using my Gimbal worked fine to find the sun, I looked at the shadow from the lens on the camera body, centered it, and the sun was almost always in the frame. I've ordered some otg cables for my tablet to see how well a direct connection works. I have a holder that clamps on a tripod leg that can hold the tablet or my laptop. I plan to experiment a lot to find the easiest and most reliable way to capture solar photos with the gear I have. I'm also considering newer gear.

 

[LDS]

A good exposure seemed easy to find, it will not be so easy during the totality.

Inside the totality, bracket. There are different structures that appear with different brightness levels, i.e the outer corona or Baily grains. You can also attempt a stqcked or HDR image later.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

A good exposure seemed easy to find, it will not be so easy during the totality.

Inside the totality, bracket. There are different structures that appear with different brightness levels, i.e the outer corona or Baily grains. You can also attempt a stqcked or HDR image later.

Yes, I was bracketing exposures 7 steps, but with my remote software, I had to hit the shutter button 7 times.

The correct exposure was easily arrived at, but I plan to use 7 step bracketing during the totality. However, I tried focus stacking and forgot to turn off exposure bracketing, it turned out really weird. It never achieved the best focus in any event.

I was hoping live af would work with a 2x TC at f/16, but it was too erratic. Its ok at f/11 but not great. There are a lot more things to experiment with.

Right now, I'm thinking a 5D MK IV might give me a better image and better AF, but I will likely figure out a way to manual focus accurately. I can always use my laptop and canon utilities to focus at 5 or 10 x, I just need a good screen shade which I can build with black foam core and a glue gun or tape.

 

[LDS]

but I will likely figure out a way to manual focus accurately.

I would use MF and tape to avoid moving the focus ring by mistake, although it the lens heats up focus may shift and need read-adjustment. I really don't know how well AF can focus this subject. If there are some spots (but the Sun cycle is at its minimum, so spots are rare and small), you can magnify them and use as reference, otherwise try to focus the Sun border. You can also find the right "infinity focus" pointing at an object far enough instead of the Sun, and probably easier to focus. If using a zoom, tape the zoom ring also, to avoid focus shifts.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

but I will likely figure out a way to manual focus accurately.

I would use MF and tape to avoid moving the focus ring by mistake, although it the lens heats up focus may shift and need read-adjustment. I really don't know how well AF can focus this subject. If there are some spots (but the Sun cycle is at its minimum, so spots are rare and small), you can magnify them and use as reference, otherwise try to focus the Sun border. You can also find the right "infinity focus" pointing at an object far enough instead of the Sun, and probably easier to focus. If using a zoom, tape the zoom ring also, to avoid focus shifts.

Live AF (contrast detect worked quite well, my plan was to focus on a very distant object - several miles or further away and tape the focus ring. The 100-400 had a zoom lock built-in. There are some Television antennas line of sight 7.5 miles and visible in my back yard. Manual focus on them is extremely sensitive, just touch the focus and its out. I might be able to fins something 50 miles away, but its something I'll work out.

I felt that there was too much cropping, even with the 1.4 TC. So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera. I am tempted to just get a 80D and use it. A 5D MK IV would also add more pixels on the subject. The 6D MK II is not a significant difference as far as MP goes.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I've upped the ante, and am ordering a new 5D MK IV thru the Canon Price Watch Street Price plan. I am selling my older cameras, and will probably also get a newer backup camera later.

I plan to tether the 5D IV and remote display / control it from my iphone, Android Tablet, or windows laptop. I'll experiment with wired as well as wireless.

I like the touch to AF function on the phone and tablet, but hard wiring to my laptop and using Canon Utilities may be more functional. There are lots of gotchas when using remote tethering, So I will also look at 3rd party apps. I will be making my own sun shades for all three to see which works best in bright sun light. Of course, the bright sunlight will disappear as the eclipse progresses so it will be less of a issue. I may just put the lens in MF and tape the focus ring if that seems to work best. The 100-400 zoom has a lock so tape isn't needed.

The camera will likely arrive in a week or so, the dealer is on the east coast and I'm West. I bought my 35mm L from the dealer in 2010 (I looked it up, I save emails like this forever) and was satisfied.

 

[Duckman]

[/quote]


So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera. [/quote]

I was just wondering myself if I should rent a crop sensor (7Dii or 80D) or use my 5Div and crop..

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....
any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.

p.s. Does anyone know how many pixels I'll be left with cropping the 5D (400+1.4x) to crop equivalent?

-J

 

[bholliman]

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....

I'm still debating between using my gimbal or ball head and 1 or 2 camera. I have a solar filter on order that should arrive next week, I plan to do lots of testing shooting the son and hopefully can answer some of these questions soon.

 

[Valvebounce]

Hi bholliman.
I'm not sure of the relative transit speeds, but my experience trying to shoot the moon, (one day I might get a really good shot which I might share)
last place, ball head,
second place, gimbal,
winner, geared head.
Also, I'm just wondering how long your son will have to hold still to get a visible image through a solar filter?

Sorry, irresistible opportunity. Feel free to return the favour when I slip up!

Cheers, Graham.

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....

I'm still debating between using my gimbal or ball head and 1 or 2 camera. I have a solar filter on order that should arrive next week, I plan to do lots of testing shooting the son and hopefully can answer some of these questions soon.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera.

I was just wondering myself if I should rent a crop sensor (7Dii or 80D) or use my 5Div and crop..

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....
any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.

p.s. Does anyone know how many pixels I'll be left with cropping the 5D (400+1.4x) to crop equivalent?

-J



About 4 pixels left

I seriously looked at the 80D, but it only has a 3 shot exposure bracket ability while a 7D MK II or the FF bodies have a 7 shot exposure bracketing. Since there is so little time during the totality, a 7 shot bracketing is a advantage.

In the end, The Eclipse will only last a short time, but I'll want a camera to use for years. That played into the decision.

 

[LDS]

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x.... any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.

I'd use a geared head, 400 prime depending on what prime you have, compared to the 100-400II, + 2x (on a full frame) . The Sun apparent size is about 0.5° - you can compare it with a lens angle of view.

The corona extends well past the Sun border, so you may want to leave enough room - and maybe using the 1.4x if you wish to image the outer corona, but it's trickier.

You may have no enough time to operate two cameras during totality, unless they've been automated.

Like Mt Spokane Photography, do some test and experiments before the eclipse. There's very little time, and you need to know exactly what you're doing not to waste it.

 

[tron]

Too far for me so I will not be seeing/photographing it. But since I have some experience from shooting a total solar eclipse back in 2006 let me tell you what I used. Although it was still film for me back then you can convert for digital...

1. A sturdy tripod with gear head. I bought both of them a few months before the shooting in anticipation of that specific occasion. I used them until 2013 when I bought a lighter tripod and head.

2. I had (and used) 300mm f/4 L (non IS version which is ultra sharp) and 2XII teleconverter. Focus set on manual (In hindsight it was interesting that I was able to focus correctly using just the viewfinder )

3. Full frame camera ..... EOS 1n ;D (and a second EOS 1n body as a backup) loaded with ISO 200 negative film.

4. Remote release cable (in combination with mirror lock).

5. Solar filter made of baader astrosolar film fitted to a round case which could screw (using 3 nylon/plastic screws) in front of the lens. It was easy to detach it for the 2 minutes of the totality phase and then attach it again.

6. I had spend a 36 exposure film taking test shots using that filter in the weeks before so as to know the settings I needed.

7. I had a piece of white sheet in case there was a temperature problem from the continuous exposure to the sun. But I did not need it after all (it was late March).

A few days before that shooting I had visited a shop to ask for the newly announced EOS 30D - now I know that I must not ask for a new camera just 1 month after its announcement!!! - but they had only EOS 20D. So I told them that they saved me some money and I left. I still feel that maybe I should have gone for either 20D or 5D but I has also hesitant because I new my EOS 1n cameras but I didn't know if there would be enough time to learn the digital camera. But, with the money I saved I bought Nikon's Coolscan ED5000 and scanned the negatives afterwards.

Happy shooting

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I have ball heads, fluid pan and tilt heads, geared tripods, and a gimbal. I like the gimbal on my really heavy duty tripod legs, my geared tripod is not so heavy, and pointing a ball head at the Sun is difficult and requires both hands. I balance the gimbal, and it only takes a touch to move it up as the sun rises, and it stays. Same with swivel. I need to check balance again with the TC, I may have to adjust or use a longer lens plate. I sold my big and heavy geared Manfrotto Video tripod legs one thinking I'd never use them, it now sits in the photography school of the local community college. They like to have the heavy duty ones just staying in place for students to use because they are so stable.