Grease on filter threads?
- Thread starter Hillsilly
- Start date
I don't use any kind of lubricant.Hillsilly said:
B+W says the following:
"... in no instance should you use oil or silicone spray, as these lubricants can find their way between the elements of the lens and can thus cause considerable damage to the imaging performance of the optics."
See here, last FAQ (How do I release B+W filters that are stuck in place?):
http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/en/photo-imaging/product-field/b-w-fotofilter/products/faq/
I see the same with, with graphite, teflon, etc. But I haven't found anything about that.
Upvote
0
Maximilian said:
They mentioned oil or silicone spray not to be used to remove the filter. The op is asking if people put some on before attaching. I heard it was recommended for ease of removing later. I believe a Teflon or graphite would be best but I have not used any myself. I was thinking of starting to do it. Just a little dab on the filters thread itself should be enough.
Upvote
0
Thanks Maximilian, but as wyldeguy mentions, I'm thinking more about before putting a filter or step-up ring on to help prevent it getting stuck. I've only recently heard of the idea after watching an "angry photographer" youtube video. But the bloke uses Nikon gear and has tattoos. I don't know how trustworthy his suggestions are. 
Upvote
0
I've used an extremely small amount of gun oil on filter threads before, literally just touching my pinky to the oil tube and running a thin coat around the threads. The coat really doesn't even need to be visible to reduce the friction. It can be helpful in extreme conditions. I use it on my tripod and tripod head to protect and keep functional.
Gun oil is good because it's cheap and designed to function in extremely hot and extremely cold conditions. It's important that you don't confuse this with gun solvent, which will eat away anything it touches.
Gun oil is good because it's cheap and designed to function in extremely hot and extremely cold conditions. It's important that you don't confuse this with gun solvent, which will eat away anything it touches.
Upvote
0
I think it would be more beneficial if the threads on the camera and filter were carefully cleaned before putting on the filter. If you are using a good quality filter, I think that grit in the threads is more likely to cause sticking.
I would not put any substance in the threads. I want to remove all the substances in the threads.
I would not put any substance in the threads. I want to remove all the substances in the threads.
Upvote
0
When I was young, the Specialists told me to use graphite from a soft pencil. Like, draw the threads with a soft pencil. That would leave enough graphite on the surface to lubricate the threads. I had completely forgot...I do not even have a pencil!
Upvote
0
Call me old fashioned but I always take a graphite pencil and do 1 ring around the threads with it before putting the filter on the lens. Also, all filters in their protective case have been prepped before hand. No problems to date (but I also always buy brass ringed filters...).
NOTE: The same thing is done on the bridge/nut of a cello to allow the metal that little bit of lubrication where the string makes contact with the wood. 8)
NOTE: The same thing is done on the bridge/nut of a cello to allow the metal that little bit of lubrication where the string makes contact with the wood. 8)
Upvote
0
Of course you can think different of that .wyldeguy said:
But please tell me what is the difference between putting lubricant on before mounting the filter or afterwards (for easier mount/dismount) except that you can dose the amount better.
And in using liquids or really fine particles (like graphite, etc.) I see no difference. Both can get into the optics.
For those who don't care about dust and dirt in their optics or their sensors, this might be absolutely no problem. But reading about concerns and complains of dirty optics or sensors and knowing that not everyone is willing to do cleaning on their own, I would be very carefull with getting my equipment in touch with these intentionally.
Upvote
0
Very good point!AcutancePhotography said:
Because all lubricants will start sticking when they get in touch with dirt (e.g. oil) or humidity (e.g. graphite).
Upvote
0
I'd avoid lubricating filter threads. Unfortunately, the threads on the front of a lens are often Aluminum, and a cheap Aluminum filter will stick, sometimes pretty firmly. Using grease or oil will result in it eventually working onto the glass, and then into the lens. Just because you read of someone doing it online does not mean it should be done.
The solution is to use a higher quality filter which is made of brass. Even with Brass, you can get minor sticking, a cheap lens filter wrench will work if that happens.
The solution is to use a higher quality filter which is made of brass. Even with Brass, you can get minor sticking, a cheap lens filter wrench will work if that happens.
Upvote
0
Graphite - #1 pencil or artist's pencil - will do the trick. No oil or grease, please, and skip the "graphite oil" which has some solvents in it that help thin it and get it to work into key cylinder parts - keep the graphite oil for your keyed locks.
I buy predominantly brass filters and brass step rings - I have a few aluminum step rings in odd sizes, and when I have to get aluminum, I splurge for a "name brand" pref. B&W, for better milling.
I buy predominantly brass filters and brass step rings - I have a few aluminum step rings in odd sizes, and when I have to get aluminum, I splurge for a "name brand" pref. B&W, for better milling.
Upvote
0
Keep in mind that a graphite pencil has more than graphite in it. It is a mixture of graphite and clay. It is the amount and composition of the clay that gives the different looks of different graphite pencils.
The very properties that make a graphite/clay good for drawing makes it less attractive as a lubricant. Just as using pure graphite would not make for a very good drawing pencil.
Graphite is soft and brittle. Great as a lubricant, not so great as a pencil. The clay acts as a binder and makes the graphite less soft and less brittle.... great for drawing, but removing the very properties that one wants in a lubricant.
If you want to use graphite as a lubricant, I would think it would be better to buy actual graphite lubricant (look for no grit or ultra pure). Why introduce clay in any amount when you don't need it. Especially when the clay will act against you as a lubricant.
The very properties that make a graphite/clay good for drawing makes it less attractive as a lubricant. Just as using pure graphite would not make for a very good drawing pencil.
Graphite is soft and brittle. Great as a lubricant, not so great as a pencil. The clay acts as a binder and makes the graphite less soft and less brittle.... great for drawing, but removing the very properties that one wants in a lubricant.
If you want to use graphite as a lubricant, I would think it would be better to buy actual graphite lubricant (look for no grit or ultra pure). Why introduce clay in any amount when you don't need it. Especially when the clay will act against you as a lubricant.
Upvote
0
Often the sticking of a filter is exacerbated by the fact that we use two or three fingers at a time to grip the filter and try to twist. These few points of stress wind up very slightly deforming the ring temporarily, which has the perverse effect of making it much less likely to come off.
One solution I use to some success is to carry a thick rubber band in my bag. I'll stick it around the edges of a balky filter, and it provides very light compression evenly around the ring, just enough to be grippy, and then I can use however many fingers I want to twist the filter off without putting additional pressure inward from the filter toward the glass.
You'll think this is nuts until you try it.
I often have difficulty with polarizers in particular, as I can't quite feel if I'm getting both layers to twist at the same time versus just spinning the outer layer.
One solution I use to some success is to carry a thick rubber band in my bag. I'll stick it around the edges of a balky filter, and it provides very light compression evenly around the ring, just enough to be grippy, and then I can use however many fingers I want to twist the filter off without putting additional pressure inward from the filter toward the glass.
You'll think this is nuts until you try it.
I often have difficulty with polarizers in particular, as I can't quite feel if I'm getting both layers to twist at the same time versus just spinning the outer layer.
Upvote
0
[email protected] said:
I don't think so. Using a rubberband as a form of strap wrench for filters is pretty common.... because it works
Upvote
0
I don't use any lubricant but another idea would be Teflon tape, the kind you use for plumbing fixtures. It works great for that application and being a film versus liquid or powder means that it wouldn't damage the lens.
Also, the most common reason for stuck filters (which I learned here on CR) is heat. I have taken hot lenses into the shade and one time, put one in a Ziploc bag in a refrigerator for a few minutes to remove a filter.
The other secret to getting stuck filters off the lens - strong hands. I found this place when I was rehabbing a hand injury many years ago and use their tools to keep my hands strong:
www.ironmind.com
Also, the most common reason for stuck filters (which I learned here on CR) is heat. I have taken hot lenses into the shade and one time, put one in a Ziploc bag in a refrigerator for a few minutes to remove a filter.
The other secret to getting stuck filters off the lens - strong hands. I found this place when I was rehabbing a hand injury many years ago and use their tools to keep my hands strong:
www.ironmind.com
Upvote
0
I don't know if PTFE thread seal tape (can't call it Teflon any more) would work out.
First I don't know if you can get it in that thin widths not to mention that even if you could it would be awkward to use.
Second PTFE tape has a minimum thickness of 3.5 mils that's a lot when it comes to a precision thread to an optic system. I wonder that even you could only put one layer on the threads, would it still have a potential impact on the alignment?
I am not sure using PTFE tape would be worth it. I have never heard of any one in our optical labs at work mention using it.
First I don't know if you can get it in that thin widths not to mention that even if you could it would be awkward to use.
Second PTFE tape has a minimum thickness of 3.5 mils that's a lot when it comes to a precision thread to an optic system. I wonder that even you could only put one layer on the threads, would it still have a potential impact on the alignment?
I am not sure using PTFE tape would be worth it. I have never heard of any one in our optical labs at work mention using it.
Upvote
0
