Ice sculptures - any tips?

[candyman]

At the end of this month I will attend an exhibition of Ice sculptures. It is a rather big exhibition hall (6,500 m2) with artificial light and it is rather dark. The temperature will be minus 8 Celsius.
I was planning to use following gear:
- - 6D with 35mm f/2 IS with B+W CPOL HTC MRC Käsemann Nano XS-Pro Digital 67mm
- - Tripod and remote control RS80-N3
- - ……I wonder if I should take my 70-200 f/2.8…. (For that I have a Hoya HD Circular Polarization Filter 77mm)
- - ….or take the 135mm (for that I have Hoya HMC CIR Polarizing filter 72mm)
I think a circular polarization filter is a must because of the reflection of the ice and the artificial lights used to give the sculptures special effects. But using it at 24mm and below does give me some effects on my FF that I don’t want. So I was planning to leave my 16-35 f/4 at home also because the aperture is rather slow (the CPOL already takes 1 to 1,5 stop light – I guess) I am not sure if I can successfully setup my tripod since it may be crowded. Though the exhibition is running since December 6th last year and ends one day after my visit. Maybe it will be less crowded….
I will take an extra battery and keep it on my body. Because I understand that the battery may run down faster in that cold. So I don’t take a chance to be there without a spare one.
I will also take an extra memory card. Just to make sure.
I will dress warm – of course – and will bring some gloves.
I wonder how to prepare or what tips can you give me. What do you think?

 

[Don Haines]

At the end of this month I will attend an exhibition of Ice sculptures. It is a rather big exhibition hall (6,500 m2) with artificial light and it is rather dark. The temperature will be minus 8 Celsius.
I was planning to use following gear:
- - 6D with 35mm f/2 IS with B+W CPOL HTC MRC Käsemann Nano XS-Pro Digital 67mm
- - Tripod and remote control RS80-N3
- - ……I wonder if I should take my 70-200 f/2.8…. (For that I have a Hoya HD Circular Polarization Filter 77mm)
- - ….or take the 135mm (for that I have Hoya HMC CIR Polarizing filter 72mm)
I think a circular polarization filter is a must because of the reflection of the ice and the artificial lights used to give the sculptures special effects. But using it at 24mm and below does give me some effects on my FF that I don’t want. So I was planning to leave my 16-35 f/4 at home also because the aperture is rather slow (the CPOL already takes 1 to 1,5 stop light – I guess) I am not sure if I can successfully setup my tripod since it may be crowded. Though the exhibition is running since December 6th last year and ends one day after my visit. Maybe it will be less crowded….
I will take an extra battery and keep it on my body. Because I understand that the battery may run down faster in that cold. So I don’t take a chance to be there without a spare one.
I will also take an extra memory card. Just to make sure.
I will dress warm – of course – and will bring some gloves.
I wonder how to prepare or what tips can you give me. What do you think?

Flash is good....
polarizing filter is good....
tripod is good, if they will allow it....

above all else, beware of humidity. Don't put lenses in coat pockets or keep the camera under your coat to keep it warm, as that is a super-humid environment. best to keep them out in the cold and only the spare battery in a warm pocket...

 

[tolusina]

....... circular polarization filter is a must.....
...... But using it at 24mm and below does give me some effects on my FF that I don’t want...

I'm thinking that you're thinking of the effects you get with a polarizer and a wide angle in scenes with lots of sky. That effect shouldn't be a concern in the venue you've described.
What you can expect with a polarizer on the ice sculptures no matter what focal length is used is that there will be reflective surfaces reflecting in all manner of random directions, you'll just have to use your artistic sense to choose which reflections to block, which to include.

 

[candyman]

At the end of this month I will attend an exhibition of Ice sculptures. It is a rather big exhibition hall (6,500 m2) with artificial light and it is rather dark. The temperature will be minus 8 Celsius.
I was planning to use following gear:
- - 6D with 35mm f/2 IS with B+W CPOL HTC MRC Käsemann Nano XS-Pro Digital 67mm
- - Tripod and remote control RS80-N3
- - ……I wonder if I should take my 70-200 f/2.8…. (For that I have a Hoya HD Circular Polarization Filter 77mm)
- - ….or take the 135mm (for that I have Hoya HMC CIR Polarizing filter 72mm)
I think a circular polarization filter is a must because of the reflection of the ice and the artificial lights used to give the sculptures special effects. But using it at 24mm and below does give me some effects on my FF that I don’t want. So I was planning to leave my 16-35 f/4 at home also because the aperture is rather slow (the CPOL already takes 1 to 1,5 stop light – I guess) I am not sure if I can successfully setup my tripod since it may be crowded. Though the exhibition is running since December 6th last year and ends one day after my visit. Maybe it will be less crowded….
I will take an extra battery and keep it on my body. Because I understand that the battery may run down faster in that cold. So I don’t take a chance to be there without a spare one.
I will also take an extra memory card. Just to make sure.
I will dress warm – of course – and will bring some gloves.
I wonder how to prepare or what tips can you give me. What do you think?

Flash is good....
polarizing filter is good....
tripod is good, if they will allow it....

above all else, beware of humidity. Don't put lenses in coat pockets or keep the camera under your coat to keep it warm, as that is a super-humid environment. best to keep them out in the cold and only the spare battery in a warm pocket...

Thank you Don for reminding me about the humidity.
I will take my lowepro bag and make sure that when I leave the exhibition, that my transition to go outdoors will be a slow one (I guess the temperature outside will be around zero to plus 5) I will put the gear in the luggage compartment of the car (no heating there - or let's say minimal)

 

[candyman]

....... circular polarization filter is a must.....
...... But using it at 24mm and below does give me some effects on my FF that I don’t want...

I'm thinking that you're thinking of the effects you get with a polarizer and a wide angle in scenes with lots of sky. That effect shouldn't be a concern in the venue you've described.
What you can expect with a polarizer on the ice sculptures no matter what focal length is used is that there will be reflective surfaces reflecting in all manner of random directions, you'll just have to use your artistic sense to choose which reflections to block, which to include.

I don't have experience with Ice sculptures so you gave me some valuable information, thanks! So I could take the 16-35mm I still wonder about the f/4 aperture......
You're right, it's about artistic sense

 

[RustyTheGeek]

You say you want Ice Sculptures? Well, here you go!! Maybe these images will give you some ideas. Enjoy...

http://www.theatlantic.com/photo/2015/01/the-2015-harbin-ice-and-snow-festival/384265/

 

[candyman]

You say you want Ice Sculptures? Well, here you go!! Maybe these images will give you some ideas. Enjoy...

http://www.theatlantic.com/photo/2015/01/the-2015-harbin-ice-and-snow-festival/384265/

Thanks for the link. Some great pictures there. I see some huge sculptures....I think I will take my 16-35 with me...just in case

 

[Maximilian]

above all else, beware of humidity. Don't put lenses in coat pockets or keep the camera under your coat to keep it warm, as that is a super-humid environment. best to keep them out in the cold and only the spare battery in a warm pocket...

Question to you, Don: Why?

Am I wrong or isn't it the only real problem if you bring a camera cooler than the humid environment into it.
Then you'll get condensation.
So best would be to keep the equipment always warmer than the environment to avoid condensation.
Otherwise the anti-condensating heaters in industrial equipment would be useless.

Only exception: Astro photgraphy, where the warm rising air would cause disturbances and therefore loss of resolution. There you need: equipment temp = environment temp.

edit:
Of course, if you let the camera cool down and then put it back into the warm bag or under your coat, then the condensation will happen there (in the warmth).
Conclusion: camera always warm or always cold.

 

[candyman]

So......I went to the Ice sculptures exhibition to take some photos. As I said this was my first time.
We entered the exhibiton at the start of the opening hour.
It was very cold inside (minus 8 Celcius) ...ha! But I was prepared for that. Wintercoat, special gloves (thumb and forefinger were free to control the camera) etc.

I took a tripod, my 6D , an extra battery, extra memorycard, my 35mm f/2 IS and a CPOL filter.
Focal length of 35mm was a good choice. I could used it in most situations. The f/2 was great although I used a lot f/5.6.

The first hour it was not so crowded. So it was possible to use a tripod. However I choose not to use it but choose to stress the IS of my 35mm. I did not use the CPOL. I played a bit with the composition, metering, aperture and so on.
After one hour it was time to warm up. So I went out to drink a cappucino and inspect my first photo results. Darn, this small LCD screen and my reading glasses

After I warmed up I went back into the exhibition area. But slowly it started to be very crowded. Working with a tripod was not really possible anymore.
And everybody was taking photos. Sounds logical eh? Meaning you have to wait, move around etc.
Just 45 minutes later it was time to go. I had enough of the cold. Besides that I was looking forward to inspect my photos at home on the big screen.

It was fun and I hope to have an opportunity for the next time so I can improve my skills.

 

[candyman]

Another one

 

[Click]

WOW! Really cool shots candyman.

 

[candyman]

And...another one

 

[candyman]

WOW! Really cool shots candyman.

Thanks click!
Yes, I am pleased for a first timer.

 

[candyman]

Just another one

 

[privatebydesign]

Very nice results candyman.

 

[candyman]

Very nice results candyman.

Thanks!
Wished I had more time in a less crowded environment.

 

[sagittariansrock]

Very nice results candyman.

Thanks!
Wished I had more time in a less crowded environment.

Very nice shots (the light on the motorcyclist is superbly captured), but I will restate what I said in my (deleted) post. If you had a wider angle lens, you could get closer and not have to wait for people to move.
Also, the effect of getting up close can often be dramatic.
For stationary subjects, the 4-stop IS of the 16-35 is more relevant than that f/4.

 

[candyman]

...
I don't have experience with Ice sculptures so you gave me some valuable information, thanks! So I could take the 16-35mm I still wonder about the f/4 aperture......

Considering the fact that your subjects aren't moving, you should wonder more about the 4-stop IS that the f/4.
Plus, I would always take a wide angle lens in a crowded event. Sometimes you'd need to back up so much with a standard lens (especially a prime) to capture your entire frame that you can't avoid dozens of people coming between you and your subject.

The IS is really helpful in case you can't setup the tripod. And, the f/4 wasn't the issue. I could have used wider than 35mm but only in the beginning of my photoshoot. I guess I may have missed some interesting compositions because of that. A lesson learned for the next time.