The textbook answer is hyperfocal focusing. I don't have a chart in front of me but just to make up some numbers that are vaguely real-worldish, on a sunny day with 100 ISO film (or camera sensor) I can use the "sunny 16" rule and set f/16. At f/16, if I set the lens to 2m, then everything about 1m to infinity is in focus (on say a 28mm or 35mm). I literally don't touch the focus any more until sundown. If there's something in front of me, I'll get a sharp photo just by tripping the shutter. With a cable release this is good for street photography as you can be close to a subject and take a photo with the camera hanging around your neck and hands in your pockets.
More generally, the lenses will have marks showing what the range of focus is. 35mm and below you'd just use hyperfocus (setting the extreme end of the focus range at infinity). At 50mm or in darker conditions, you can't get the entire focus range perhaps, but you can look down at the top of the lens and focus it for a subject anyway.
Some lenses like my 35/1.4 have a finger-thing that lets you focus with the left index finger knuckle, and with that you can kind of memorize where your knuckle needs to be for close, medium-close, medium, etc.
This is all why Leicas, in brighter scenes, have 100% focus hits. They're never focused on the wrong thing or hunting. The Canon R AF is fantastic but it still could focus on the wrong thing and it's a hassle to manually override.
I could see getting the M10 Mono. I have to admit I really prefer the Leica size even to the MILFF, and I like the small primes. I probably made a mistake getting into RF instead of Fuji X.