14-bit and 13-bit A/D Conversion with H+ and H-speed

[candyman]

For my photography I use the Canon EOS R6. Among other things, to photograph birds from a bird hut. A situation with varying contrasts and speeds of the birds. So I regularly adjust the settings of my camera to get the best possible results (hard work )

On The Digital Picture I read the review of the Canon EOS R6. Digital Picture reports: “Note that RAW and C-RAW have 14-bit A/D conversion with mechanical and electronic 1st curtain shutter, 13-bit with H+ mode, and 12-bit A/D conversion with the full electronic shutter."

Then I searched the internet for more information about A/D conversion. I came across this article: ADC and Resolution

I have no technical knowledge and cannot judge whether this article gives me the correct explanation.
Is it true that the bit conversion has an impact on the dynamic range?
If so, what is the practical difference when I shoot at H+ (13-bit A/D C) and H (14-bit A/D C) in conditions where my shutter speed is between 1/320 and 1/2000 with auto ISO between 640 and 12800?
Is the impact on noise negligible? Or does it have an impact? For example with light cropping?

What do I notice between 14-bit and 13-bit for the quality of the photo?
I feel like only using H instead of H+ to preserve the maximum of quality for the photo. BTW when taking photos from a bird hut I use mechanical shutter (usually behind special glass window)

Maybe someone can give me some more information/explanation. I really appreciate that.
Thank you.

 

[Sharlin]

The difference will be negligible at ISOs above 800 or so. At ISO 100 to 400 you may notice a bit less latitude to recover highlights or push shadows (more noise in the shadows) when shooting with the e-shutter compared to mech/1st curtain electronic.

 

[candyman]

Thank you for your reply Sharlin.

"At ISO 100 to 400 you may notice a bit less latitude to recover highlights or push shadows (more noise in the shadows) when shooting with the e-shutter compared to mech/1st curtain electronic."

I thought it would have more impact at higher ISO. Why less latitude at ISO 100 to 400? I'm trying to understand

 

[neuroanatomist]

Thank you for your reply Sharlin.

"At ISO 100 to 400 you may notice a bit less latitude to recover highlights or push shadows (more noise in the shadows) when shooting with the e-shutter compared to mech/1st curtain electronic."

I thought it would have more impact at higher ISO. Why less latitude at ISO 100 to 400? I'm trying to understand

Raising ISO decreases dynamic range. By ISO 800, the R6 has lost ~2 stops of DR compared to ISO 100. Thus, the reduced bit depth at faster frame rates is sufficient at higher ISOs.

 

[candyman]

"Raising ISO decreases dynamic range. By ISO 800, the R6 has lost ~2 stops of DR compared to ISO 100. Thus, the reduced bit depth at faster frame rates is sufficient at higher ISOs."

Thank you for your reply Neuro.

So practically I would use H at lower ISO (eg 100 to 400 or 640) and use H+ at higher ISO?

 

[neuroanatomist]

So practically I would use H at lower ISO (eg 100 to 400 or 640) and use H+ at higher ISO?

To maximize your available exposure latitude, yes.

You may want 12 fps instead of 6-8 fps for other reasons, e.g., best choice of wing position for BIF.

 

[candyman]

Thanks, got it

 

[Czardoom]

I would recommend trying out the two modes and seeing if you see a difference.

From a few articles I perused this morning - and from others looked at in the past - my conclusion is that you won't see a difference between 10, 12 or 14 bit, unless you pixel peep. The articles I saw only mentioned the greater color depth (far more possible number of colors with increased bit depth) and nothing about noise or resolution.

Again, I would try it out and see for yourself. That is the only answer that will be meaningful.

 

[candyman]

Thank you. I will try it out.

 

[R1-7D]

I do quite a bit of birds-in-flight photography, as well as travel photography using a pair of R5s.

For BIF, I always use electronic shutter. The 20 fps gives me more images to choose the optimum wing positions of my subjects. The loss in bit depth - from 14 or 13 to 12 bit - is inconsequential above ISO 800. Since I’m usually shooting around 1/2500 to 1/3200, my ISO is already above 800 unless I’m shooting in a perfectly bright day with no cloud cover. As a result, unless I’m concerned about rolling shutter with ES, there’s no point in shooting in one of the higher bit mechanical modes.

For my travel photography work, I always shoot in either mechanical shutter or electronic first curtain shutter (which mode depends on my shutter speed and aperture settings for my subject). I also always try to keep my ISO as low as possible (ISO 100 is preferable with the camera firmly attached to a tripod). Therefore, there is a benefit of having the higher bit files for maximum dynamic range.

If shooting at ISO 100, I personally find that there is an appreciable difference between shooting in a mechanical mode, with larger bit depth, compared to shooting in electronic shutter when boosting shadows or recovering details from highlights; with shadow boosting in ES at ISO 100, details break down much more quickly.

I say choose your shutter mode depending on what and how you’re shooting. There is a reason why Canon gives you the option to change modes.