Yesterday I was on this Photopils Milky Way Photography Post Processing Masterclass with Nick Page on YouTube and a number of folks mentioned in the comments that they moved to Affinity Photo from Lightroom/Photoshop and are happy. Does anyone use this? I had a look at their web page https://affinity.serif.com/en-gb/photo/ and it looks very interesting. It is a license purchase at US$ 49.99. It has a free trial too. I will check it out. Apparently it can use Photoshop plugins too!
Does anyone use Affinity Photo instead of Lightroom and Photoshop
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I have affinity and don't use it much.. but on occasion I do. I used some of the stacking on that for star trails and it worked great!
pros - its powerful and can do most photoshop functions, but its not like lightroom... the price is one time and not that high which is phenomenal and worth it even if you only use it occassionally. I've upgraded it years later for free. Look at that.. a new upgrade just today, downloading it... free. Amazing price.
My problem is the learning curve.. like photoshop it's nasty big and I don't have the patience, their file handling and work flow.. definitely not lightroom or On1 ... it doesn't show the preview on the RAW so never know what I'm opening and it opens one at a time.
pros - its powerful and can do most photoshop functions, but its not like lightroom... the price is one time and not that high which is phenomenal and worth it even if you only use it occassionally. I've upgraded it years later for free. Look at that.. a new upgrade just today, downloading it... free. Amazing price.
My problem is the learning curve.. like photoshop it's nasty big and I don't have the patience, their file handling and work flow.. definitely not lightroom or On1 ... it doesn't show the preview on the RAW so never know what I'm opening and it opens one at a time.
Thanks @snappu604. That helps. So I'll do some research, download the free trial and see for myself. No preview on RAW is a big downer...
Thanks again.
Been using it for years now. I do a lot of panos and stitching with it and am rarely dissapointed with results.
It's easy to learn especially for photographers that really only need a subset of the functionality. Remember that its actually a suit of apps that fully integrate with each other with a common project format, a lot of graphics artists are using/moving to it. Because it's new(ish) the codebase is modern (and clean). Key things for me, everything can be done on adjustments (non destructive) so i cant think of when I've ever had to do anything that i couldn't reverse.
The downside, forget the raw development module, sadly and frankly they just got it so wrong it could have been genius but i suspect that project file sizes would have been an issue, ah well perhaps that will be the big thing in v2. Also there is no cataloguing feature which for me goes hand in hand with raw development. There has been rumours for ages about this but for now nothing. Working in combination with DXO or C1 and tiff output works well for me anyway for the ace noise reduction.
Have fun!
It's easy to learn especially for photographers that really only need a subset of the functionality. Remember that its actually a suit of apps that fully integrate with each other with a common project format, a lot of graphics artists are using/moving to it. Because it's new(ish) the codebase is modern (and clean). Key things for me, everything can be done on adjustments (non destructive) so i cant think of when I've ever had to do anything that i couldn't reverse.
The downside, forget the raw development module, sadly and frankly they just got it so wrong it could have been genius but i suspect that project file sizes would have been an issue, ah well perhaps that will be the big thing in v2. Also there is no cataloguing feature which for me goes hand in hand with raw development. There has been rumours for ages about this but for now nothing. Working in combination with DXO or C1 and tiff output works well for me anyway for the ace noise reduction.
Have fun!
I have it and have been dabbling with it over the last couple of days for some negative scanning. I screwed up on the setup for my Canon FD slide duplicator, you cannot fit a 1 series on above the rail so I have to use a crop body and stitch the images together.
It seems to have some quirks, like I can’t find out how to rotate an image, or more accurately I can rotate the image, but not the canvas, this causes the image to loose area. I guess this comes under steep learning curve.
The panorama stitch seems to do a good job on a 3x3 series of images, I have been processing them in DxO and then blending the jpegs, it is only for a birthday card so no need to learn how to process raw negative images on unfamiliar software!
It seems to have some quirks, like I can’t find out how to rotate an image, or more accurately I can rotate the image, but not the canvas, this causes the image to loose area. I guess this comes under steep learning curve.
The panorama stitch seems to do a good job on a 3x3 series of images, I have been processing them in DxO and then blending the jpegs, it is only for a birthday card so no need to learn how to process raw negative images on unfamiliar software!
The canvas can be rotated three ways for very different reasons and affect.I can’t find out how to rotate an image, or more accurately I can rotate the image, but not the canvas, this causes the image to loose area. I guess this comes under steep learning curve.
...... so no need to learn how to process raw negative images on unfamiliar software!
1. By right clicking on the image and select rotate-right/left/reset
but I suspect that's not what you were looking for this is like rotating the image to work on it at a different angle not actually rotating the image. More like rotating your computer screen.
2. Document menu - all the rotates/flips in there, rotates/flips all layers and canvas, no clipping.
3. Free hand rotate of a layer or layers which sounds like what you are doing, click (or shift click 15 deg incr.) and drag a corner handle
the layer(s) may be clipped but not trimmed against the canvas depending on how big the canvas is. Easy fixed by Document menu - Unclip Canvas
Hope this helps
Glad you didn't waist time on the RAW side of things!
Hi Zim.
Thank you For taking the time to explain this.
Cheers, Graham
Thank you For taking the time to explain this.
Cheers, Graham
The canvas can be rotated three ways for very different reasons and affect.
1. By right clicking on the image and select rotate-right/left/reset
but I suspect that's not what you were looking for this is like rotating the image to work on it at a different angle not actually rotating the image. More like rotating your computer screen.
2. Document menu - all the rotates/flips in there, rotates/flips all layers and canvas, no clipping.
3. Free hand rotate of a layer or layers which sounds like what you are doing, click (or shift click 15 deg incr.) and drag a corner handle
the layer(s) may be clipped but not trimmed against the canvas depending on how big the canvas is. Easy fixed by Document menu - Unclip Canvas
Hope this helps
Glad you didn't waist time on the RAW side of things!
I use Affinity all the time. Daily more often than not.
For me, a lifelong Photoshop user, it came to me easily and once you're used to it it is more intuitive (for me) than Photoshop.
So far I haven't found anything in terms of developing, editing, etc that it can't do.
For RAW processing I use DxO (screw subscriptions) then go into Affinity or Topaz Studio or one of my other editing tools to finish post.
For me, a lifelong Photoshop user, it came to me easily and once you're used to it it is more intuitive (for me) than Photoshop.
So far I haven't found anything in terms of developing, editing, etc that it can't do.
For RAW processing I use DxO (screw subscriptions) then go into Affinity or Topaz Studio or one of my other editing tools to finish post.
I have it and have only used it really for panorama stitching and focus stacking. Tends to crash our old 2013 iMac. We have a new M1 Mini in the way with 16 GB ram so I’m interested to see what kind of performance improvement we see.
I develop raw files in DPP4. It’s simple enough. Has all the canon lens corrections and colors. Then I mess with JPEGs or if I really want to trigger a crash, I’ll try a couple TIFFs.
I understand the latest update is ready for M1 so hopefully I can explore the program more without needing a couple and crashes for every stitching effort.
Still, for $25 and free updates, really happy with the results.
I develop raw files in DPP4. It’s simple enough. Has all the canon lens corrections and colors. Then I mess with JPEGs or if I really want to trigger a crash, I’ll try a couple TIFFs.
I understand the latest update is ready for M1 so hopefully I can explore the program more without needing a couple and crashes for every stitching effort.
Still, for $25 and free updates, really happy with the results.
I have tried it a few times but not better than Photoshop. I just don't see the point of overpaying for simple tasks like these. There are many other alternatives to use if you want to edit your photos without having to spend a fortune. One great way to colorize black and white photos is a free software that I have been using and the result is just so impressive. I have so many photos of my childhood redone into colored versions. My mom was in awe when she saw it and it made a great gift to be able to print them again and put them on an album.
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