I am sorry, but I have to make a slight adjustment to your statement.
yes, you can tell reliably if your clipped highlights or not.
how:
1. step one: measure your camera's usable ( with safety margins ) dynamic range. for 6D is around 5.7 stops. yes, 5.7 stops.
step two: observe the scene and locate the brightest highlight area. do not worry about the sun, it is going to clip highlights there, no matter you tried.
step three: spot meter for your absolute highlights. get the reading.
your camera treats everything as 18% (mid grey) and will calculate exposure to place your absolute highlights in the dead centre of the histogram.
step four: take the reading of the step three and add half of your camera's usable dynamic range less 1/3 EV (safety margin) to the reading. in my case with 6D : 5.7 /2 = 2.85 EV, less say 0.35EV. that's +2.5EV for Canon 6D
My exposure compensation for the spot metered highlights will be : +2.5EV
2. birders will tell you to add +2 EV if you shoot bird in flight to compensate for the exposure bias. that's simplistic way of doing what I suggested in the method #1.
3. method number three (trial and fail):
blinkies (Overexposed highlights) indicators come
earlier than actual clipping occurs by approximately 1/3 EV on my 6D camera.
take a shot, observe the image on lcd screen, look for the blinkies. if present , decrease exposure by 2/3 of a stop. take another shot. if blinkies gone, then increase exposure by 1/3 of a stop. take another one.
blinkies may return but that is fine. that's is what we need. done!
4. method four ( my preferred method when time permits): Buy good light meter (Sekonic, for example).
calibrate light meter to your camera, on location spot meter for highlights and save exposure to the light meter memory, then spot meter for shadows and save exposure to light meters memory.
based on this two reading evaluate the scene dynamic range. if the dynamic range of the scene is wider then you cameras usable dynamic range, than you have to use exposure bracketing.
if scene dynamic range is within the your cameras usable dynamic range, then set you absolute highlights to the right edge of your histogram , see method #1.
alternatively, spot meter for the grey card (18%) and use the reading to set your perfect exposure.
My preferred method for run and gun situation is method #3
sulla said:
To cut a long story short, no, there is now way to know (during shooting) if your exposure actually clips. In my experience, there will be full highlight details in the shot even with a clipped in-camera-histogram very often.