All:
I've had this body for a couple of weeks now, and thought it might be interesting to here from a perspective of someone that has historically shot 5D bodies. I briefly owned an M3 (was never thrilled with it), and also a Fuji XT-2 (which I liked shooting a lot but didn't care for the raw files).
First, I picked this body up primarily to have a small system to use on business trips (or non-photographic centered trips) and also for use in documented the activities of the little ones in the house. I wasn't and am not looking to completely switch the systems that I use, particularly for my landscape work. With that said, here are my thoughts regarding various aspects of the M6 Mark II and some sample images illustrating what I believe to be true at this point of ownership.
Ergonomics
This body is obviously much smaller and lighter than what I typically shoot. That in itself is perfect as I want a system that doesn't take up much space, and keeps the weight down. Despite the small size, the body feels pretty good in my hands, even when using an adapter and a larger EF lens attached. To be sure though, it is most comfortable when fitted with one of the EF-M lenses designed for it (I have the 18-150,22, and 11-22). I find the controls to be fairly easy to reach, and it has become rather intuitive in the small amount of time I've used it.
1. I do think could be improved is the control dial on the back of the body. The knurled edge seems a bit sharper than it needs to be in my opinion. Also, at times when turning it with the thumb, I have accidentally pressed one side or the other and activated a menu I didn't want to activate. The tactility of turning the wheel I find to be more than acceptable.
2. I have reached for the "info" button a few times by feel and accidentally get the AF button instead. I don't think this is a problem per say, but more just getting accustomed to having less real estate on the camera body.
3. The "*" button is situation above the focusing point button on the extreme right edge. Just personal taste but I would prefer those be swapped. That could change with further use.
4. Drag and focus - I have really learned to appreciate this functionality. In effect it somewhat negates #3 as I don't reach for those particular buttons because of it. I have the sensitive area set to the bottom right of the screen, absolute position and in my opinion this works wonderfully.
Image/File Quality
Overall, I"m really happy with the quality of the image files I'm getting with this new sensor. While I wouldn't say it rises to the general level of the files I get with my 5d Mark IV, I would also say that from what I can tell at this point some improvements have been made in the sensor design. While I'm not able to measure the dynamic range, from my testing so far I seem to have a lot of room for highlight recovery, and potentially even more room for recovering shadow detail due to the noise characteristics of this sensor.
Shadow Recovery
This area in particular is where I see improvements in this sensor even over the 5D Mark IV. As an example take a look at the image below:
I've adjusted the exposure overall, but notice that the missing window pane in the top left (2 over and 2 down) is totally dark. Below is a crop of that area, in which I've increased the exposure beyond what you see here by a value of 4 in Lightroom:
Now obviously the area around the pane is completely blown out as you would expect, but look at what I was able to recover from a totally black area of the image? There is actually detail from inside the building. Also notice the characteristic of the noise itself, there is NO banding. I can tell you from experience I would have seen color banding when attempting this with the 5D Mark IV. Herein lies where I think a lot of improvement has been made with this sensor.
Of course there is no way I would attempt to recover something nearly this far in actual use, but I feel like it is an appropriate indicator of the performance that should be possible in scenes with a lot of dynamic range. Shooting into the sun at sunset for example.
Usable ISO
This is an area in which I'm probably not the best judge of image quality. For my type of shooting I very rarely shoot at anything over ISO 400, and more often than not at ISO 100. I have used files at ISO 1000 from the 5D Mark IV and find the results to be pretty darn good in a landscape shot, but that is a rare occurrence.
Regarding the M6 Mark II, there is most definitely more noise in even shots at ISO 100 when compared with the 5D Mark IV files. It isn't objectionable and seems to be rather easily dealt with in Lightroom, although I find that my default noise adjustment is higher than the 10 I normally start with on the 5D Mark IV. In the interest of exploring higher ISO sensitivities with the M6 Mark II however, here are a couple of image files at higher ISO.
*All of the next three shots are with an adapted Sigma 150mm macro
ISO 6400
ISO 2000
ISO 3200
Important note - It seems to me that Canon's internal JPG engine deals with image noise better than I can do in Lightroom. In nearly all cases what I see in the embedded JPG "looks" better at the pixel level. Being that I'm not super experienced in noise reduction (I don't have much to deal with in my shooting) I'm sure people far more familiar with noise reduction could get better results.
Consequently I suspect that ISO values above 6400 are also usable, but I personally don't have a reason to go higher than 6400. For my purposes, these results are great for the few times I'm shooting something where I need higher ISO values.
Overall I'm extremely happy with the performance of this sensor. While I haven't spent a lot of times actually shooting landscapes as of yet I think I will be very pleased based on my use cases so far. I like working with the files far better than I did the Fuji files (this is entirely due to strange sharpening artifacts that I found difficult to deal with effectively).
NOTE: I have found that I prefer using the Camera Neutral profile for my 5D Mark IV in Lightroom. For whatever the reasons may be (I'm not sure) there are no camera specific profiles for the M6 Mark II in Lightroom. It could have something to do with the new .CR3 format and hopefully they will eventually show up.
AF Performance
Here again is an area that I just don't have a lot of expertise. Other than taking snapshots I have always manually focused for my landscape work. Even on the few occasions where I was shooting birds, etc. I typically was on a tripod and using one spot/recompose for that. Basically, this represents the first body that I've actually tried AF tracking by any method so take that into account when reading my observations.
All of the shots in the previous section were taken hand held. They all were taken using tracking AF. In fact in most cases the wind was blowing enough to make initial acquisition a challenge. Once the target was acquired, I think the system worked really well. I won't say there was a 70% keeper rate or anything since I was looking for critical focus of the eye area which is a pretty small spot. Considering the overall movements due to wind were very unpredictable I was frankly pretty amazed.
All of those images were taken in short bursts with the normal high-speed setting (14fps). I don't think I had a string longer than 6-7 images in any of the bursts. I did NOT try the 30fps mode although I will at some point.
I did track a few planes, and some people and as you would expect the tracking worked significantly better. On a couple of occasions I did find that the initial target would "get changed" when another person passed close by or something of that nature. I think it worked well, but it could be fooled in those circumstances. On the planes there was no issue at all.
***Adapted glass works well (tried 70-200 f4L and Sigma 150mm macro) but I do think the tracking suffers to some extent. That is most likely due to focusing speed of the lens vs. anything else. The Sigma in particular was never a fast focusing lens.
Rear Screen and option EVF
The rear screen seems fine to me although I haven't used it much to actually shoot with. The big surprise for me is the quality of the EVF. As I said before I've used the M3, as well as the Fuji XT-2 and in my opinion this option EVF easily surpasses either of those. To be completely frank it probably has made me a believer in mirrorless systems. I forgot that I was looking at a TV screen almost immediately. Usually my reminder was when I accidentally hit the wrong button and the menu popped up in the viewfinder for some reason. After the first day or two I actually haven't taken it off the body at all.
***I'm sure I will use the rear screen far more when on a tripod and shooting landscape, but for the type shooting I have been doing so far the EVF has worked surprisingly well. I'm impressed! (coming from someone who thought I would never be able to not have an OVF.
I've had this body for a couple of weeks now, and thought it might be interesting to here from a perspective of someone that has historically shot 5D bodies. I briefly owned an M3 (was never thrilled with it), and also a Fuji XT-2 (which I liked shooting a lot but didn't care for the raw files).
First, I picked this body up primarily to have a small system to use on business trips (or non-photographic centered trips) and also for use in documented the activities of the little ones in the house. I wasn't and am not looking to completely switch the systems that I use, particularly for my landscape work. With that said, here are my thoughts regarding various aspects of the M6 Mark II and some sample images illustrating what I believe to be true at this point of ownership.
Ergonomics
This body is obviously much smaller and lighter than what I typically shoot. That in itself is perfect as I want a system that doesn't take up much space, and keeps the weight down. Despite the small size, the body feels pretty good in my hands, even when using an adapter and a larger EF lens attached. To be sure though, it is most comfortable when fitted with one of the EF-M lenses designed for it (I have the 18-150,22, and 11-22). I find the controls to be fairly easy to reach, and it has become rather intuitive in the small amount of time I've used it.
1. I do think could be improved is the control dial on the back of the body. The knurled edge seems a bit sharper than it needs to be in my opinion. Also, at times when turning it with the thumb, I have accidentally pressed one side or the other and activated a menu I didn't want to activate. The tactility of turning the wheel I find to be more than acceptable.
2. I have reached for the "info" button a few times by feel and accidentally get the AF button instead. I don't think this is a problem per say, but more just getting accustomed to having less real estate on the camera body.
3. The "*" button is situation above the focusing point button on the extreme right edge. Just personal taste but I would prefer those be swapped. That could change with further use.
4. Drag and focus - I have really learned to appreciate this functionality. In effect it somewhat negates #3 as I don't reach for those particular buttons because of it. I have the sensitive area set to the bottom right of the screen, absolute position and in my opinion this works wonderfully.
Image/File Quality
Overall, I"m really happy with the quality of the image files I'm getting with this new sensor. While I wouldn't say it rises to the general level of the files I get with my 5d Mark IV, I would also say that from what I can tell at this point some improvements have been made in the sensor design. While I'm not able to measure the dynamic range, from my testing so far I seem to have a lot of room for highlight recovery, and potentially even more room for recovering shadow detail due to the noise characteristics of this sensor.
Shadow Recovery
This area in particular is where I see improvements in this sensor even over the 5D Mark IV. As an example take a look at the image below:
I've adjusted the exposure overall, but notice that the missing window pane in the top left (2 over and 2 down) is totally dark. Below is a crop of that area, in which I've increased the exposure beyond what you see here by a value of 4 in Lightroom:
Now obviously the area around the pane is completely blown out as you would expect, but look at what I was able to recover from a totally black area of the image? There is actually detail from inside the building. Also notice the characteristic of the noise itself, there is NO banding. I can tell you from experience I would have seen color banding when attempting this with the 5D Mark IV. Herein lies where I think a lot of improvement has been made with this sensor.
Of course there is no way I would attempt to recover something nearly this far in actual use, but I feel like it is an appropriate indicator of the performance that should be possible in scenes with a lot of dynamic range. Shooting into the sun at sunset for example.
Usable ISO
This is an area in which I'm probably not the best judge of image quality. For my type of shooting I very rarely shoot at anything over ISO 400, and more often than not at ISO 100. I have used files at ISO 1000 from the 5D Mark IV and find the results to be pretty darn good in a landscape shot, but that is a rare occurrence.
Regarding the M6 Mark II, there is most definitely more noise in even shots at ISO 100 when compared with the 5D Mark IV files. It isn't objectionable and seems to be rather easily dealt with in Lightroom, although I find that my default noise adjustment is higher than the 10 I normally start with on the 5D Mark IV. In the interest of exploring higher ISO sensitivities with the M6 Mark II however, here are a couple of image files at higher ISO.
*All of the next three shots are with an adapted Sigma 150mm macro
ISO 6400
ISO 2000
ISO 3200
Important note - It seems to me that Canon's internal JPG engine deals with image noise better than I can do in Lightroom. In nearly all cases what I see in the embedded JPG "looks" better at the pixel level. Being that I'm not super experienced in noise reduction (I don't have much to deal with in my shooting) I'm sure people far more familiar with noise reduction could get better results.
Consequently I suspect that ISO values above 6400 are also usable, but I personally don't have a reason to go higher than 6400. For my purposes, these results are great for the few times I'm shooting something where I need higher ISO values.
Overall I'm extremely happy with the performance of this sensor. While I haven't spent a lot of times actually shooting landscapes as of yet I think I will be very pleased based on my use cases so far. I like working with the files far better than I did the Fuji files (this is entirely due to strange sharpening artifacts that I found difficult to deal with effectively).
NOTE: I have found that I prefer using the Camera Neutral profile for my 5D Mark IV in Lightroom. For whatever the reasons may be (I'm not sure) there are no camera specific profiles for the M6 Mark II in Lightroom. It could have something to do with the new .CR3 format and hopefully they will eventually show up.
AF Performance
Here again is an area that I just don't have a lot of expertise. Other than taking snapshots I have always manually focused for my landscape work. Even on the few occasions where I was shooting birds, etc. I typically was on a tripod and using one spot/recompose for that. Basically, this represents the first body that I've actually tried AF tracking by any method so take that into account when reading my observations.
All of the shots in the previous section were taken hand held. They all were taken using tracking AF. In fact in most cases the wind was blowing enough to make initial acquisition a challenge. Once the target was acquired, I think the system worked really well. I won't say there was a 70% keeper rate or anything since I was looking for critical focus of the eye area which is a pretty small spot. Considering the overall movements due to wind were very unpredictable I was frankly pretty amazed.
All of those images were taken in short bursts with the normal high-speed setting (14fps). I don't think I had a string longer than 6-7 images in any of the bursts. I did NOT try the 30fps mode although I will at some point.
I did track a few planes, and some people and as you would expect the tracking worked significantly better. On a couple of occasions I did find that the initial target would "get changed" when another person passed close by or something of that nature. I think it worked well, but it could be fooled in those circumstances. On the planes there was no issue at all.
***Adapted glass works well (tried 70-200 f4L and Sigma 150mm macro) but I do think the tracking suffers to some extent. That is most likely due to focusing speed of the lens vs. anything else. The Sigma in particular was never a fast focusing lens.
Rear Screen and option EVF
The rear screen seems fine to me although I haven't used it much to actually shoot with. The big surprise for me is the quality of the EVF. As I said before I've used the M3, as well as the Fuji XT-2 and in my opinion this option EVF easily surpasses either of those. To be completely frank it probably has made me a believer in mirrorless systems. I forgot that I was looking at a TV screen almost immediately. Usually my reminder was when I accidentally hit the wrong button and the menu popped up in the viewfinder for some reason. After the first day or two I actually haven't taken it off the body at all.
***I'm sure I will use the rear screen far more when on a tripod and shooting landscape, but for the type shooting I have been doing so far the EVF has worked surprisingly well. I'm impressed! (coming from someone who thought I would never be able to not have an OVF.