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Nikon D8XX Thermal Issues Not New. What Does It Mean?

Aug 21, 2014
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Nikon D800E thermal issues chronicled here: http://scottreither.com/blogwp/2012/07/01/nikon-d800-e-long-exposure-issues-problems-2/
and here: http://www.trichardsen.com/blog/nikon-d810-and-why-i-am-returning-it
and here: http://photosofarkansas.com/2013/08/02/d800-reticulation-issues-during-night-photography-white-dot-problems/


If the sensor in the D810 is physically (without anti-alias filter) the same as the D800/D800E, differing in the pipeline firmware/software; or - if the sensor in the D810 is physically different from the D800 series yet every D8XX has thermal issues, what are we to learn from all this?
 
haven't seen a camera yet that didn't have, or eventually develop, some hot pixels.
That's what dark frame subtraction's for, even the in-camera process is usable for most shots.

At least SOME mfrs, NOT Canon, NOT Nikon, allow you to map out bad pixels right from the camera menu.
 
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Aglet said:
haven't seen a camera yet that didn't have, or eventually develop, some hot pixels.
That's what dark frame subtraction's for, even the in-camera process is usable for most shots.

At least SOME mfrs, NOT Canon, NOT Nikon, allow you to map out bad pixels right from the camera menu.

Not true, doing a 'sensor clean' with the cap on for a minute or so allows the camera to remap the sensor, and gone are all the hot pixels 8)
 
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mrsfotografie said:
Aglet said:
haven't seen a camera yet that didn't have, or eventually develop, some hot pixels.
That's what dark frame subtraction's for, even the in-camera process is usable for most shots.

At least SOME mfrs, NOT Canon, NOT Nikon, allow you to map out bad pixels right from the camera menu.

Not true, doing a 'sensor clean' with the cap on for a minute or so allows the camera to remap the sensor, and gone are all the hot pixels 8)

That is indeed a great and easy way to do it! Did that last winter - it was so easy I thought someone was just trying to pull our legs with that tip.
 
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DominoDude said:
mrsfotografie said:
Aglet said:
haven't seen a camera yet that didn't have, or eventually develop, some hot pixels.
That's what dark frame subtraction's for, even the in-camera process is usable for most shots.

At least SOME mfrs, NOT Canon, NOT Nikon, allow you to map out bad pixels right from the camera menu.

Not true, doing a 'sensor clean' with the cap on for a minute or so allows the camera to remap the sensor, and gone are all the hot pixels 8)

That is indeed a great and easy way to do it! Did that last winter - it was so easy I thought someone was just trying to pull our legs with that tip.
It's not as official as an actual menu-item so can someone describe the method in more detail and I'll test it out.
I have a Rebel that developed a bunch of hot pixels as I was shooting studio shots with it over a matter of minutes. So I can test that out.
 
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neuroanatomist said:
That people who want to take pictures of 'ghosts' should upgrade from the Fuji X10 to the Nikon D8x0? The 'white orbs' will be smaller, but the extra DR will more than make up for that.

;D

I love it when people make the same joke again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and ...

Lol, you so funny!

How do you do the same joke so many times and it still be funny?

You're a comedy genius John.

Kudos.
 
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Aglet said:
DominoDude said:
mrsfotografie said:
Aglet said:
haven't seen a camera yet that didn't have, or eventually develop, some hot pixels.
That's what dark frame subtraction's for, even the in-camera process is usable for most shots.

At least SOME mfrs, NOT Canon, NOT Nikon, allow you to map out bad pixels right from the camera menu.

Not true, doing a 'sensor clean' with the cap on for a minute or so allows the camera to remap the sensor, and gone are all the hot pixels 8)

That is indeed a great and easy way to do it! Did that last winter - it was so easy I thought someone was just trying to pull our legs with that tip.
It's not as official as an actual menu-item so can someone describe the method in more detail and I'll test it out.
I have a Rebel that developed a bunch of hot pixels as I was shooting studio shots with it over a matter of minutes. So I can test that out.

With the lenscap on the lens, go to the camera menu and select 'manual cleaning'. The mirror will flip up and the camera black out. Leave it for a minute, then switch off the camera to complete the 'cleaning'. You can do this with any lens on the camera, no need to use the body cap.
 

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jakeymate said:
I love it when people make the same joke again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and again, and ...

And yet no comment about the broken records with their interminable DR whining? The good doctor will always be one post behind that lot.

I so look forward to your incisive, barbed wit being directed their way...
 
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mrsfotografie said:
Aglet said:
DominoDude said:
mrsfotografie said:
Aglet said:
haven't seen a camera yet that didn't have, or eventually develop, some hot pixels.
That's what dark frame subtraction's for, even the in-camera process is usable for most shots.

At least SOME mfrs, NOT Canon, NOT Nikon, allow you to map out bad pixels right from the camera menu.

Not true, doing a 'sensor clean' with the cap on for a minute or so allows the camera to remap the sensor, and gone are all the hot pixels 8)

That is indeed a great and easy way to do it! Did that last winter - it was so easy I thought someone was just trying to pull our legs with that tip.
It's not as official as an actual menu-item so can someone describe the method in more detail and I'll test it out.
I have a Rebel that developed a bunch of hot pixels as I was shooting studio shots with it over a matter of minutes. So I can test that out.

With the lenscap on the lens, go to the camera menu and select 'manual cleaning'. The mirror will flip up and the camera black out. Leave it for a minute, then switch off the camera to complete the 'cleaning'. You can do this with any lens on the camera, no need to use the body cap.

Thanks.
Will do this when I have time and post before and after pix...
Leaving the lens cap on seems like a funny thing to do... My other mfr's cameras simply do this by keeping the shutters closed. Not that it matters...
 
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Keith_Reeder said:
And yet no comment about the broken records with their interminable DR whining? The good doctor will always be one post behind that lot.

I so look forward to your incisive, barbed wit being directed their way...

You don't think sarcastic posts on here about the white pixels issue is clutching at straws?

My last Canon (number 6 of 6 that I owned in the digital age) had a light leak issue, and needed some electrical tape to fix it.

That was a pretty dumb issue for a camera to have, having the sensor able to see the light from the top LCD light.

And that camera had to go to Sydney due to Canon not having a service centre in Brisbane, so I lost it for 2 weeks.

The service centre near me took 10 mins to 'fix' my D810, less time than it takes to read most of the "good doctor's" rambling 'anti everything but Canon' posts.

That said, I tried really hard to reproduce the white pixel issue on mine but couldn't, so not sure why that is. It can't have affected all of them, even though mine was in the affected batch.

Cameras have issues. The 1DX had the lube issue, but who cares? The 1DMk3 was a disaster that was never really solved, and the D600 was a pretty major mess up.

They are complex pieces of machinery and it would be amazing if they arrived without any issues at the price they cost.

Even the cameras that have green read noise and low DR.

I jest, I jest, so don't bite.

Be happy with what you have.

I am ;)
 
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