• UPDATE



    The forum will be moving to a new domain in the near future (canonrumorsforum.com). I have turned off "read-only", but I will only leave the two forum nodes you see active for the time being.

    I don't know at this time how quickly the change will happen, but that will move at a good pace I am sure.

    ------------------------------------------------------------

Spray and Pray Discovery

As I went out this weekend to grab a few final shots for my upcoming book, I ran into my typical macro nightmare - wind. it was probably 5-6mph on and off, but that's a veritable windstorm beyond 0.5x or higher and it never seems to stop moving. I could use a plamp (if I owned one) and shield of some sort (annoying to carry along), or the most obvious thing, flash. I'm not a fan of macro flash, at least in the field, so I try to shoot all my stuff with natural light if possible.

Unfortunately, it was overcast, and even at ISO 3200 on my tripod mounted 5DIII, I was dealing with speeds around 1/20s at f/5.6 and I needed f/16- f/22 to get sufficient DOF.

I decided to try spraying and praying, and was able to nail these two sharp photos (ratio was roughly 1 sharp shot to 12 blurry ones):

f/16, 1/13s, ISO 3200
Maclay_Gardens_20131019_1738_ID-L.jpg


and even more impressively f/22, 4/10s, ISO 1600:
Maclay_Gardens_20131019_1796_ID-L.jpg


Why oh why haven't I tried this before??? Obviously it's catching the subject during that imperceptible pause between movements. I will be doing this with windy landscapes in the future, too. Thought I would pass this along...
 
Been doing this for years, even in the film days - the double-tap. It also works well with portrait work. Usually, the second frame gets better expression and no closed/closing eyes.

For macro, even with the MT-24ex, I will AI Servo and double-tap the frame. I also carry a few rolls of floral wire to wire up the subject if it gets too windy.
 
Upvote 0
If it is not too windy (maybe a couple millimeters of movement of the subject) I will typically fire off 5-7 shots and then load those into PS to do some focus stacking - plus that works great with wider apertures..
=)
 
Upvote 0
Also works for waterfalls - setup behind your umbrella, use a wired release cable and set the body to high speed continuous shooting. Lift the umbrella and start shooting, until the lens needs a wipe to remove spray. Repeat as needed.

Too bad we can't program the body to do focal stacking for us - I mean, it's a lens, at a static focal length, the amount of travel in the focus is know, set it to closest point, figure DoF based on Aperture, and move the focal point x distance each shot. Either that or let me pick a pattern on the AF and focus & shoot each point in the pattern.
 
Upvote 0
Halfrack said:
Also works for waterfalls - setup behind your umbrella, use a wired release cable and set the body to high speed continuous shooting. Lift the umbrella and start shooting, until the lens needs a wipe to remove spray. Repeat as needed.

Too bad we can't program the body to do focal stacking for us - I mean, it's a lens, at a static focal length, the amount of travel in the focus is know, set it to closest point, figure DoF based on Aperture, and move the focal point x distance each shot. Either that or let me pick a pattern on the AF and focus & shoot each point in the pattern.

Now that gives a new meaning to "spray and pray".
 
Upvote 0
Halfrack said:
Too bad we can't program the body to do focal stacking for us - I mean, it's a lens, at a static focal length, the amount of travel in the focus is know, set it to closest point, figure DoF based on Aperture, and move the focal point x distance each shot. Either that or let me pick a pattern on the AF and focus & shoot each point in the pattern.

You can do precisely this on a Canon camera if you can install the Magic Lantern firmware onto it. I use it to focus stack in my "studio" for figurine images.
 
Upvote 0