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squeeky sound when mounting filters

Patak

Take that shot for god sake !
Nov 17, 2014
33
0
345
Canada
i would appreciate any advice for a bit of a problem with my filters. For the most part my filters are B+W MRC-N
When i mount filters on some of my lenses there is a considerable squeeky sound coming from filter being screwed on the lens. Also the filter tread does not seem to fit the best. i have no problem with Hoya filters. i prefer B+W brand for the most part that they are very easy to clean. The question is: is there any non-greasy lubricant on the market that i can use to make the mounting process easier?

Thankfully,
Patak
 
I'd be very cautious with any kind of lubrication, even graphite. Try cleaning both threads. Filters just sometimes do this. Do you live in an ultra low humidity area?

I'd say don't worry about it and get on with taking great photos. Alternatively sing loudly while changing filters, use earplugs ::), or even better, Bose QC25 noise cancelling headphones. ;D

-pw
 
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pwp said:
I'd be very cautious with any kind of lubrication, even graphite. Try cleaning both threads. Filters just sometimes do this. Do you live in an ultra low humidity area?

I'd say don't worry about it and get on with taking great photos. Alternatively sing loudly while changing filters, use earplugs ::), or even better, Bose QC25 noise cancelling headphones. ;D

-pw
+1
I would also stay away from lubricants, because I wouldn't want them inside my lens or - even worse - on my sensor, which might be possible depending on lens construction and handling of graphite etc.
So keeping the threads clean and living with the annoying sound should be the best solution.

See also the B+W
http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/en/photo-imaging/product-field/b-w-fotofilter/products/faq/
Last FAQ:
"... to remove a filter yourself, in no instance should you use oil or silicone spray, as these lubricants can find their way between the elements of the lens and can thus cause considerable damage to the imaging performance of the optics."
 
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ajfotofilmagem said:
Graphite powder, specifically designed to lubricate locks. The graphite pencil does not serve as it has other minerals that make it more rigid and impede lubrication.

+1.
I have used powdered Graphite (in VERY small quantities) on a number of lens filter threads and hoods - works just great. Also, being a dry lubricant, it doesn't migrate to places where it would not be welcome!
 
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NO LUBRICANTS!!!!!!!!!

Clean your filter thread with some extra extra fine steel wool, and make sure you blow away any residue fibres or dust before you let that filter get anywhere near your camera.
 
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after cleaning; if squeak persists... something is off round or an area of thread has been bent (difficult but not impossible). If it happens on multiple lenses... then it is the filter.
 
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Mt Spokane Photography said:
Ill second that using graphite is a very bad idea. The powder is very fine, and some lenses pump air thru the front element when extending. Once it gets inside, cleaning it out is nearly impossible.

No issues after 5 1/2 years on the "Dust Pump". The lens hood was very tight/squeaky/ grindy on my example, also my CPL had a habit of galling on the threads. A tiny application of Powdered Graphite sorted it all nicely.
I sold the lens to a friend who used it for a further 18 months. So after about 7 years of use - no issues. I mention this particular lens because many feel that it sucks in everything within 3 foot radius! I have also used Powdered Graphite (again very small quantities) on the 17-40 L, 24-105 L, 100 F2.8 Macro and 70-200 F2.8 L - none have had the slightest problems with ingress.

I respect your opinion but this is what I have actually done and found absolutely no issues. Some of those lenses were in my use for longer than the 5 1/2 years of the Dust Pump - eg. the 17-40 was just short of a decade. If you have found otherwise (with Powdered Graphite) then I understand your warning and would be interested in your experiences for future reference.
 
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johnf3f said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
Ill second that using graphite is a very bad idea. ....

No issues after 5 1/2 years on the "Dust Pump".....

Still not recommended. I have used WD40 to unscrew the front end off of a 35L before... It worked great, but I would beat anyone who got close to my lens with a can of the same... its all in the method and the user.
 
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tpatana said:
Can't you turn up your music player?

+1 on this.

I have all B&W filters and notice some lenses seem a bit rough when screwing them on. It is the threads, maybe you dinged the filter, maybe the lens. But if the filter screws on, and it comes off, it really doesn't matter.

ajfotofilmagem said:
Graphite powder, specifically designed to lubricate locks.

- -Many times over on this one.
Maybe you have the perfect lens that is perfectly sealed and no graphite ever gets in. Probably not. Maybe it gets graphite in the cracks and you never notice.
Then maybe your lens is air tight but you change your camera body and a bit is airborne and it floats into your camera body. How will that affect your sensor and electronics.
 
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TeT said:
johnf3f said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
Ill second that using graphite is a very bad idea. ....

No issues after 5 1/2 years on the "Dust Pump".....

Still not recommended. I have used WD40 to unscrew the front end off of a 35L before... It worked great, but I would beat anyone who got close to my lens with a can of the same... its all in the method and the user.

WD40 is the last thing on Earth that I would use. It is specifically designed to migrate/flow as far as possible and degrades many plastics. Powdered Graphite sticks to most surfaces, reacts with virtually nothing and goes nowhere unless you apply ridiculous quantities.
 
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johnf3f said:
TeT said:
I have used WD40 ....

WD40 is the last thing on Earth that I would use....

Tell me about it, their was rusty grit involved and it had to be stripped all the way down anyways... The spreaders could not budge it without something soaking in and loosening the grime first... It was the "last thing" I could try.
 
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