Tilt Shift Lens advice

[JohanL]

Here is a handheld shifted sample.

 

[Hector1970]

I've had a 24mm TS-E lens for about 5 years.
It's a very interesting lens and if it were the only lens you had it would turn you into a great photographer.
It's sharp and you can get great depth of field. It's good for stitched panoramas.
But if I were to be perfectly honest it's not a very practical lens.
17mm would be better / more flexible for architecture (but it has a bulbous front so filters are not straight forward)
It's not the least bit waterproof.
I won't risk using it if rain is a potential (I live in a wet country)
It's delicate. Tighten too much it can all jam up and you have an expensive repair.
I don't think it would survive any fall. The knobs are vulnerable.
On a tripod the degree of tilt required to get the best depth of field is so small the control is not fine enough.
Once you tilt the metering system goes all wrong in its reading , you have to manually adjust.
It's manual focus which is clear when you buy it. Most of the time that is okay but easy to forget.
I sill really like it but rarely use it.
It is an enjoyable lens if you have time. It makes you precise.
All the nobs and movements are pretty cool.
Miniturisation almost works better in software.

 

[neuroanatomist]

Once you tilt the metering system goes all wrong in its reading , you have to manually adjust.

Only through the viewfinder. Metering is fine in live view, which is how I generally use my TS-E lenses (makes focusing easier, too).

 

[Jopa]

I don't think it would survive any fall.

Probably most of lenses won't

 

[ahsanford]

I've never shot T/S myself, but a friend I shoot landscapes with does all the time on his D800.

He's always told me that shorter FL T/S is great for architecture, but longer FLs are better for popping the miniaturization effect. He'd shoot nighttime cityscapes with a Nikon 85mm T/S and it was amazing how he could transform an entire skyline into a miniature/diorama effect centered on one street corner, or how longer (but not too long) exposures with car tail-lights would turn into a localized laser/lightning bolt effect. Cool stuff. I may rent one someday and try it myself.

- A

 

[Jopa]

I've never shot T/S myself, but a friend I shoot landscapes with does all the time on his D800.

He's always told me that shorter FL T/S is great for architecture, but longer FLs are better for popping the miniaturization effect. He'd shoot nighttime cityscapes with a Nikon 85mm T/S and it was amazing how he could transform an entire skyline into a miniature/diorama effect centered on one street corner, or how longer (but not too long) exposures with car tail-lights would turn into a localized laser/lightning bolt effect. Cool stuff. I may rent one someday and try it myself.

- A

Me neither. It's kind of hard for me to shoot an ultra wide angle prime, much harder to make a right composition without ability to zoom. I'm not sure if a TS zoom is possible for dummies like me? I noticed I tend to shoot the 11-24 mostly at 20+, so a 16-35 f/whatever would be probably a better choice for me. If I ever decide to buy a TS, it won't be anything wider than 24mm for sure

Does your friend have a web site? Would love to see the street images.

 

[ahsanford]

Does your friend have a web site? Would love to see the street images.

Sorry, no. Dude is a great guy but he's very private about putting up his work. A real pity.

- A