here is a one shot hdr b&w with the new lens
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It shouldn't be dependent on light level, per se, except that with brighter light, you and/or the camera are typically using a smaller aperture, resulting in more depth of field, so small errors in focus have less of an apparent impact on the photographs.
You should always do AFMA in manual or aperture value mode, with the lens wide open. Otherwise, you're likely to undercorrect.
I used full manual operation all the way with aperture kept at f1.8 for my 85mm for example. Only shutter speed and ISO was changed. It was just a feeling that light-level had a bearing on AFMA value but I have no scientific proof. Could be something else but definitely not aperture or DOF related.
i think the d.o. would be better? Certainly lighter and more compact.
The DO is certainly compact, it's about the same size as the 24-105L, and about the same diameter but 1/2" shorter than your new 16-35/4L IS. It's pretty 'dense' and weighs ~4 oz more than the 16-35/4.
As a landscape lens, it would likely be a decent choice as the IQ improves quite a bit with stopping down. As I said, it needs TLC in post. Also as I said, buy it used! I bought it used, kept it for several months, then sold it...for the same price I had paid. Free, long term rental...
If you want to shoot up to ISO1600, so 70D + 55-250 STM clearly wins.The 70-300 DO is crap. Worst Canon lens ever. I've got at least $20K tied up in Canon glass...
I'd like to ask – is that based on personal experience with the 70-300 DO, or based on review sites (e.g. TDP's ISO 12233 crops)? I think a lot of bashing comes from those who have never used the lens. (Not that it means anything, but since counting seems important to luckydude, I own over $30K in Canon lenses... )
The 70-300 DO doesn't fare well in standardized testing. It does produce softer images than other lenses, but I believe that's due to the nature of the optics, and I found that images actually take more sharpening than other lenses (analogous to the D800 vs. D800E, where standardized tests treating images from both identically show the -E as much sharper, but in practice you can apply more sharpening to the D800 before seeing artifacts, so they are not so different as testing would predict).
Similarly, the DO lens needs the contrast boosted in post. Nothing in post will help the odd bokeh, though.
I owned the 70-300 DO for several months, and in some testing I performed, while the images processed with a 'standard' workflow weren't great, proper application of sharpening and contrast enhancement gave images of nearly equivalent IQ to the 100-400L or 70-200/2.8L IS II + 1.4xII at several focal lengths in the overlapping range.
BUT, even with Canon lenses, what is spot on with recommended AFMA distances can be a couple of points off when doing portrait work. Really only critical when shooting below f/2.2, but annoying in such cases.
And I think over time, maybe with temperature and humidity, values change.
Constant battle, ain't it?
Same experience here as I often shoot portraits at f2.0-f2.2. I was guessing that was due to higher outdoor light level but not sure. Take the filter off and the AFMA value will shift a few points too.
Now Canon has got the dual pixel sensor focusing technology. In theory, future cameras should be able to auto calibrate the phase dect focusing while u shoot! This can be done by the camera constantly comparing the results of the conventional phase dect focusing module with that of the dual pixel sensor phase dect circuit, and
make automatic adjustments to AFMA or better yet a full blown Canon in-house type calibration.
Hopefully we will eventually get rid of manual AFMA altogether
ps. i used this method to adjust a 70d and 50L combo yesterday. i was able to get it adjusted and focusing with a +13 afma value in a matter of 2 minutes or less without any computer.
2 minutes is really impressive for a value of +13 candc! How many iterations did u go thru during the 2 minutes?