April 19, 2014, 11:33:15 AM

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Messages - christianronnel

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1

Hi, thanks for your message. I did go to the Apple store, showed the tech guys the same pictures I posted here. They said it's logic board/graphic card failure (I hope I understood them correctly). I told them about this thread and the one on the apple.com website. They said they never heard about this issue with early 2011 models. The funny thing was they said, well you know people say all different kind of stuff on forums  ;)

So, I paid $310 to get the new logic board + 8gb RAM, although they said it usually costs ~$500-600. I didn't really care as I'm covered with Squaretrade warranty. I picked up the laptop today, so far it's working fine.

Good luck with your newly fixed computer, I hope that it lasts a lot longer than what other people had experienced.  And of course they've never heard of it before, suuure (wink wink).  Hopefully we'll get refunded the repair cost once there's a class action lawsuit.  There is now a petition page on FB with 919 members so far.  https://www.facebook.com/groups/2011mbp/

2
@christianronnel

As for the logic board failures, that's usually a thermal problem.  Someone probably didn't assemble the computer with the right amount of thermal paste between the GPU and the heat sink, resulting in overheating when the GPU is under load.  You might be able to work around the problem by using one of various tools that let you tweak the fan calibration.

If that doesn't help, then the GPU's heat is probably causing one of the BGA solder balls to not make proper contact with the logic board, which means that your logic board needs to be reflowed.  I'd expect that to be cheaper than a replacement logic board, though if the problem is caused by using the wrong kind of solder and/or not keeping the chip cool enough, there's no guarantee it won't just fail again after another year.

But before you go to such extremes, call Apple anyway.  Then press zero until you get a live human.  Ask to speak to Customer Relations.  Tell them that you've seen the thread, and that you're experiencing the same failure out-of-warranty.  Ask them to make a warranty exception.  They're the only team that can typically do that, so you might as well skip all the tier 1/tier 2 tech support and go straight to the people who can actually help.


Thanks for the info.  I agree with you, the GPU needs to be reballed.  But it's too late for mine, I need to find a place that can replace the GPU with a new one and actually solder the GPU properly to the logic board.  The problem with Apple is that their service centers are not equipped for board level repairs.  They just replace the parts (i.e., logic board).  The problem with that is they just replace with refurb or new logic board with the same flaw.  It will just have the same problem again after a short time.

3
The issue is related to the discrete AMD graphics chip.  Does your MBP have one?  If it does then it's a related issue otherwise it may actually be software or RAM related.

4
Photography Technique / Re: Three days in The Big Apple
« on: March 08, 2014, 11:09:10 AM »
A visit to the top of the Empire State is  a must.  You can buy a Citypass that would get you big discounts.  Skip most of the museums except for maybe Guggenhiem for architecture photography and the Met just for awesomeness.  The Brooklyn bridge is not that far either and it's a good stroll.  There are some good cafes and restaurants to have dinner in that area after sunset shooting.  Here are a couple of shots I took when I was there a week before hurricane Sandy.  Have a fun and safe trip!

http://500px.com/photo/61877397
http://500px.com/photo/61710507

5
Third Party Manufacturers / Macbook Pro 2011 Logic Board/GPU failures
« on: February 25, 2014, 04:51:07 PM »
I know this is not camera related but I think there would be a lot of CR readers/members who may be using a Mac for post processing.  I just want those Mac owners to be aware of this issue.

My 17-inch MBP (2011) just started showing GPU glitches when I use Photoshop or Lightroom.  I cannot do anything to it but shutdown wait a few minutes before restarting.  The machine would be usable for a few minutes only just enough time for me to get a file so that I can use in another computer.  I'm out of warranty so I was getting ready to fix it.  While I was searching for logic board repairer I stumbled on a thread from Apple forum https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4766577?start=3375&tstart=0regarding high failure rate on this model of MBP.  Another google search and I found this article on MacRumors http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1697394&highlight=2011+macbook+pro

I'm curious if anyone here had the same problem?  I know the photography/videography community would probably have a high percentage of Mac power users that would push the GPU/CPU to its limits.

6
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: February 23, 2014, 12:52:32 PM »
"The Fire Wave"  Valley of Fire State Park, NV.



Nice job.  I like your comp of this place.  I think this is one of the best images I've seen from VoF.

7
.... It's just not the IQ leader.

Just curious, based on that statement, if you put an image from a 1DX against the D800, would you be able tell which is which?  Sure there are scientific methods of measuring IQ but do you actually see the differences may it be on print or on your monitor?

I'm not familiar with what you shoot, but let's say you were surprised by a thrilling subject, and your subject was backlit or accidentally underexposed due to speed/position.  At this point, you would care a great deal about shadow recovery with minimal noise and banding.

One would think that people who use a 1DX or 5D3 or D3s or D800 should not normally have that kind of issue.  But just in case there are a bunch of money bags out there who chose these as beginner cameras, Canon has a solution.  You can shoot 12FPS or 6FPS continuously at different exposure compensation.  It's called auto-bracketing.  Does that solve the DR problem?

8
And here is the photo taken by the 1100d (T3):
http://www.worldpressphoto.org/awards/2014/contemporary-issues/christopher-vanegas?gallery=1125526


I live near the US/Mexico border.  In that part of the world, you wouldn't want to be walking around looking smug with your "pro" gear.

9
Improvements are improvements. Each works towards the ultimate imaging device. As long as we're all alive, it always will.

Downplaying improvements because they aren't happening with the brand you've exchanged vows with just doesn't make any sense. It's a reactionary stance, with little footing in logic or science.

Are alll improvememts of equal significance?  By your logic the identification of the 13th and 14th genes that subserve a particular cellular function carries the same scientific weight as the discovery of DNA as the primary heritable genetic material or the elucidation of the structure of DNA.  Inflating the importance of a particular incremental improvement to the level of a paradigm-shifting technological advance is not rational. 

Can you honestly say you believe that going from 11 to 13 stops of DR or adding MP that many lenses cannot fully take advantage of rise to the level of importance to and impact upon the field of photography as autofocus or the shift from film to digital?  If not, then your response to my sarcasm was absolutely 'reactionary, with little footing in logic or science.'

I mostly agree with you that some advances in science and technology were paradigm-shifting.  However, incremental improvements are what allowed for those revolutionary discoveries. Such that incremental advances in crystallography is what solved the structure of the DNA as Watson and Crick's original model was completely wrong.  Same goes for small improvements in enzymology that allowed the development of polymerase chain reaction and cheaper and faster DNA sequencing.

Creating higher density sensors warranted for much better lenses, otherwise we'd still be using Canon glass from the 90s instead of being excited what Sigma will release next.  Improving the dynamic range 2 stops helps when you're making large prints since the DR of paper/printers is already limited.  Going from 3 FPS on 5D2 to 6 FPS on 5D3 is night and day without factoring the other improvements.  Those seem like small improvements on paper but significant in actual use.  So yes, all improvements are significant.  Compounded knowledge has a snowball effect.

10
Reuters Full Focus best of 2013 was even more lopsided to Canon:  A collection of the years's best 93 pictures.

http://blogs.reuters.com/fullfocus/2013/12/01/best-photos-of-the-year-2013/#a=2

80% of the pictures within the collection were taken with Canon cameras. The Canon 5D Mk3 and the Canon 1DX were the most popular each with 27 photos in the top 93. (29% each, 58% together) The Canon 1DMkIV had 11. What totally blew me away was that Nikon as a camera was only used for 11 pictures in the collection of the top 93.

Here is the full list by camera manufacturer and model:

1.  Canon 5D Mark III          27 pictures
2.  Canon EOS 1DX             27 pictures
3.  Canon EOS 1D Mark IV 11 pictures.
4.  Canon 5D Mark II             7 pictures
5. Canon EOS 1D Mark IIII 3 pictures

6. Camera with two photos in the collection:
 a. Canon 7D
 b. Nikon D3s
 c. Nikon D4
 d. Nikon D300S
 e. Nikon D3

7 . Cameras with one photo in the collection:
Canon EOS 1D Mark II.
Canon EOS 1D Mark II N
Canon EOS rebel T3
Nikon D7000
Nikon D700
Nikon D3100
iPhone
GoPro Hero II

http://kurtklimisch.blogspot.com/2014/01/examination-for-reuters-fullfocus-2013.html


Thanks for sharing.  The image with the mother giving birth is the one that will stay with me for days.

I don't care much which camera model they are using.  What's interesting is the dominant number of images shot with a 70-200 and 16-35.  I expected the 70-200 but I was surprised with how many images there are either shot with 16-35 or 24mm prime. If the 16-35 lens is popular with press photographers as well as landscape photographer one would think that a 14-24 lens would be one of Canon's top priorities.  Or am I looking at it the wrong way, is it because it's so popular that they don't think it needs a replacement?

11
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: February 16, 2014, 04:24:12 AM »
I think these two photographs are my best landscape shot to date.  Thanks for viewing.


u n d u l a t i o n by Christian Ronnel, on Flickr


b a d w a t e r by Christian Ronnel, on Flickr

12
Software & Accessories / Re: I know, Another backpack question
« on: February 16, 2014, 04:14:11 AM »
Since you're already into the F-Stoppers Bags, have you not considered a smaller one of those? I have the Guru and love it as a day bag. I think you'd be able to fit all that stuff into a small ICU in the guru, though the lens hoods might be a bit of an issue and the 70-200 would have to be attached to the camera. I also have the Medium Slope for mine which would easilly fit that stuff, but leave less room up top for jackets etc.

+1
I agree, since you've invested in the ICU why not try the Guru or the Kenti?  F-stop makes really great bags.  Perhaps the best camera bag out there.

I use the Tilopa BC with a medium pro ICU for mulit-day backpacking or trekking.  I used to used a Guru with a small ICU for daily walk use around town.  Now I have a Kenti I don't use the Guru anymore. 

The Kenti cannot use the ICU system but the bag is awesome.  I use it for day hikes.  I take a 5DIII with 16-35L, a 7D with 70-300L with hood and tripod ring or 70-200L without the hood but with tripod ring attached, a 24-70LII, one 600ex RT plus radio trigger, Lee filter kit and holder, extra batteries and charger, intervalometer, light meter, iPad mini in  a Logitech keyboard case, rain coat, gloves, head lamp, flashlight, Leatherman tool kit, some snacks.  I can carry all that but not look like I carry all of that.  The Kenti is designed very well, you can even add some extra holder on the hipbelt (I added a water bottle holder).  You load the camera with lens attached from the sides so you have easy access to your gear at a moments notice.  The top compartment is roll top so it can expand to carry as much gear or enough clothing for a weekender.  You can also attached a camelback water bladder on the outside using one gatekeeper. and you never had to worry about the leaking inside the bag.

Trust me, you will look cool with a Kenti.  Your grandson may even want it from you.

13
Landscape / Re: Sunset landscape
« on: February 06, 2014, 11:34:03 AM »

14
Lenses / Re: zooms vs primes for landscape
« on: February 04, 2014, 11:46:58 AM »
Hi. I'm hoping to prevail on the collective wisdom of CR regulars for advice on building my lens kit after making the change from crop sensor to FF (I've got the 6D - great camera). I got rid of the last of my crop sensor lenses, leaving me with the following lenses: 24-105 f4L, 50 f1.8II, and an older Sigma 70-200 f2.8 APO HSM (no OS) that I've had since my Elan IIe days. I shoot landscapes, occasional portraits, and I would like to get into macro. I don't shoot sports and don't plan to. I see two possible paths forward: go mostly with primes or rely mostly on zooms. In either case, I plan to keep the 24-105 because of its versatility as a walk around lens.

Plan 1. Add the 24mm f2.8 IS, 35mm 2.0 IS, 100mm f2.8L IS, and 200mm f2.8L. Sell the Sigma. Perhaps add a Rokinon 14mm manual focus later. On hikes when I want to keep the weight down, I could go with the 24, 35, and 100 and have most of the bases covered.

Plan 2. Add the 17-40mm f4L, 70-200mm f4L IS, and 100mm f2.8L IS. Sell the Sigma 70-200 f2.8. I don't want to buy the Canon 70-200 f2.8L (IS or non-IS) both because of the weight and the fact that for most landscape I don't need shallow DOF. Similar comments apply for the 16-36mm f2.8L. On hikes when I want to minimize weight, I would go with the 17-40, the 50, and the 70-200 f4L. I suppose that I could add macro ability by swapping the 50 1.8 for a 50 2.5 macro.

Any thoughts about either of these plans or other recommendations? Thanks.

I recently came back from a trip from Death Valley and I've given your question more thought.  In short, go with zooms, sell your Sigma and your 24-105 and get the 16-35 and a 24-70/2.8 either from Canon or Tamron. 

Here is why i think you should to that, the long version.

1.  As you had mentioned, weight is a great factor.  If your style of landscape photography is the "touristy" kind where you don't go too far from the car, then it's not a factor at all, by all means bring the sharpest primes.  But if you are going to climb up and down dunes, canyons and mountains it will eventually sinked in (to your shoulders) that you need to lighten up your load.  For weight savings I would go with zoom lenses.  The weight difference between 16-35 and 17-40 is barely noticeable, same goes between 24-105 and 24-70.  Get the 70-300L.

2.  Not having to change your lens too often.  If you are a very experienced photographer and you can "see" the shot and which focal length to use for it then by all means go with the primes.  If you're like me, having to move around and zoom in out to see the best composition, well you know the answer.  Having to switch lenses too often is really taxing to your gear too.  The weather sealing on the camera and lenses is mute at that point.  Sand and salty sea mist will easily get in your camera no mater how careful you are.  So zoom wins in this regard.

3.  Versatility.  I guess this depends on how you view a versatile lens.  Zoom is more versatile than primes, except for Tilt-Shift lenses for reasons already mentioned in this thread.  Here's my take on versatility.  Having F2.8 may not seem important at first for beginning landscape photographer.  Don't think of F2.8 for shallower DoF.  Think of it as having a versatile tool.  Focusing is easier with F2.8 and I don't mean the cross-type focusing points on your camera.  It would be much easier to see in the view finder compared to an F4 lens.  Most landscape photographers using modern  digital cameras uses live view for focusing.  But there would be times when you absolutely cannot see anything in live view, like at night are with the sun behind you.  The F2.8 would also allow you to take pictures of the Milky Way at half the time or ISO that you would need with an F4 lens.  So stars would be sharper and less noisy skies.  Hence, I recommend getting the 16-35 and a 24-70/2.8.

4.  Cost.  I didn't do the price comparisons between you plan 1 or 2 but it seems to me that having 3 zoom lenses would be cheaper than buying several primes to cover the entire focal length.  You may not find the need the 100mm macro if you get the Tamron 24-70 or the Canon 70-300L as they both have shorter focusing distance compared to other zoom.

5.  Room in your bag.  Aside from weight, there is only so much you can fit in your bag.  I have the F-Stop bags and my favorite is the Kenti model. With that I am able to carry, a 5DIII, 7D, EOS-M, 70-300L, 24-70LII, 16-35LII, Lee filter set, jacket, flash light, water, some snacks and my iPad.  My point here is, if you can't carry it, you can't use it.

15
Business of Photography/Videography / Re: Sequential numbering watermark
« on: February 04, 2014, 10:35:06 AM »
Hi Gareth,

Why not post on Flickr and share to Facebook.  Facebook keeps the filename and link used on Flickr.  Try this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Upload-Flickr-photos-directly-to-Facebook-photo-al/

It may be outdated but there are several Flickr apps out there that would allow share your photo stream directly to a FB album.

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