July 29, 2014, 11:41:22 PM

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Messages - Axilrod

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1
Lenses / Re: How many years before we see a 50L II
« on: July 24, 2014, 01:31:50 PM »
many years.
there is nothing wrong with the 50L.

it's a people lens. it's plenty sharp.
it's f/1.2 - so if you're not nailing focus, you need to work on your technique.

Can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not...

2
EOS Bodies / Re: When Does the Year of the Lens Start?
« on: May 02, 2014, 09:49:38 AM »
14-24 por favor

3
EOS Bodies / Re: Just discovered on swiss canon web page EOS 1200D
« on: April 30, 2014, 06:03:27 PM »
http://de.canon.ch/For_Home/Product_Finder/Cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_1200D/discover/index.aspx?WT.ac=SS_1200D_EOS_SwitzerlandDE


Canon cameras get different branding depending on the country, like Neuro said, this is the Rebel T5 in the US. I guess the Swiss probably don't know what a "rebel" is.

4
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Quick start videoing on 5Diii
« on: April 30, 2014, 06:01:10 PM »
I'll do my post-production in instagram for that film effect

You're joking right? You have to be joking.

5
The 17-120 is nice... And will outlast any camera that they could have announced.

Haha yeah it's nice for the video industry but I doubt many people on here have $33k lying around to buy one. Prosumers got the shaft that's all there is to it.

6
Eldar this is great and I'd love to see the comparison, but I think you're one of a very small group that is fortunate enough to own the OTUS, and probably the only person on the board that owns both of these lenses. But I'd love to see your comparison shots and hear your opinion!

7
Lenses / Re: Canon CN-E50mm T1.3L F
« on: April 30, 2014, 05:52:45 PM »
I'd hope it's better than the 50L, but I know with Zeiss their CP.2's are pretty much the ZE's in cinema housings. The cinema lenses have more aperture blades, so you get a rounder bokeh even stopped down a bit. But most of the money you're spending on cinema lenses is paying for the housing, so that added cost isn't really going towards improved image quality, and no way it's going to perform as well as the OTUS. Not to mention buying a cine lens for shooting stills is ridiculous, they dont have AF and are way too big and bulky and are designed to be put on rigs, not for shooting handheld.


8
Lenses / Re: 135L v 85 1.8
« on: April 30, 2014, 05:47:23 PM »
I've owned the 135L and 85 1.8, there isn't really a comparison between the two. I think the 85 1.8 is a great value but the 135 outperforms it in every way. Get it, you won't be sorry. But honestly if you're shooting weddings you might be better off selling your 70-200 and 85 and picking up the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. I'd say the 70-200 II is just as sharp as the 135 and is a hell of a lot more versatile.

9
Lenses / Re: Canon's f/1.2's: What is really going on?
« on: April 30, 2014, 05:45:07 PM »
I had a the 50L for a while and really enjoyed it, but it definitely has it's flaws. I traded it a few years ago for a Zeiss 50mm Makro and haven't regretted it for a second. Although I think I may pick up the Sigma if it's as good as everyone says it is.

10
Man who would have thought the answer was "not a damn thing."

11
Canon General / Re: Gear envy
« on: February 10, 2014, 09:41:56 AM »
I think that list is wrong... I don't think that Canon has a 14mm fisheye. 14mm rectilinear, yes.

And I can't believe they don't have at least 1 200-400 w/1.4x lens. Hmmm...well, ok. They'll be shooting from more known locations & distances, so I guess you can go with all primes like they have.

You're right, the 14mm is rectilinear. But the list says there are 7 200-400's.

12
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Zeiss Otus Initial Impressions
« on: December 26, 2013, 02:50:00 PM »
Ahhh Eldar, I sure do envy you. Your whole lens lineup is like any Canon fans wet dream. Glad you're liking the Otus, might have to rent it one of these days : )

13
Lenses / Re: Best lens for night time lapse
« on: December 03, 2013, 04:29:33 PM »
Thanks Axilrod! I'm headed to northern Montana, so city lights won't be an issue :)

Ahh I envy you, that's a great spot for astrophotography. During the winter visibility is high but the brightest parts of the Milky Way don't really get too far above the horizon. In the northern hemisphere the summertime is going to give you the best view of Saggitarius (where you want to aim for those awesome pics of the spiral arm), but it's still worth giving it a shot in the winter. 

Definitely download Stellarium, it's an absolute must and will show you where everything will be at any given time.  When you launch it toggle "atmosphere" to off (hit "a" on your keyboard), other than that it's pretty straightforward. Post some results after you give it a shot!

14
Lenses / Re: Best lens for night time lapse
« on: December 02, 2013, 09:46:05 PM »
You want as fast as possible, f/2.8 at the minimum. The Rokinon 14mm has already been recommended and as cheap as it is you can't really go wrong, so I'll second that.

Also, a few tips that I wish someone had told me before I wasted hours shooting in the wrong places/wrong time of the month:

1. Get away from major cities, as far away as possible (see this map: http://www.blue-marble.de/nightlights/2012), this makes all the difference in the world. I don't care how dark it is in your back yard on a dark night (unless you live in middle of nowhere Iowa or something), if you live within any range of a even moderate sized city it's going to turn out like crap. If you live in the western half of the country this will be much easier for you than the east.

2. GO DURING A NEW MOON. This has a HUGE impact on how good your images will turn out, I mean massive, cant stress it enough. Consult this page: http://www.moonconnection.com/moon_phases_calendar.phtml

3. Download Stellarium to find out where interesting areas of the sky will be. To find the really amazing part of the Milky Way you see in tons of pictures look for Saggitarius.

4. Get a rock solid tripod, turn on mirror lockup, turn off in camera noise reduction, turn on Silent shooting if you have a 5D3, set your WB to 4000K, ISO 1600-6400 (depending on conditions/what you're going for), open the aperture up, remove the camera strap (wind blowing can create vibrations), and tape over the viewfinder.  As for exposure time the rule of thumb is that whatever your focal length is just divide 600 by it and thats the max exposure you can shoot without getting trails.  So if you get a 14mm, 600/14mm = 42.8 so you can do a 42 second single exposure before the stars begin to show as an oblong shape.

Honestly the biggest thing you can do for yourself is getting to the right location during a new moon, I was absolutely floored the first time I saw the results shooting out in the Texas desert on the night of a new moon. Suddenly I realized why all the pictures I had taken in Atlanta were shite, it wasn't because I sucked it was just the conditions. Anyways, godspeed and good luck.

15
I edit IPB footage in FCPX no problem, just give it a whirl. Not sure what kinda Mac you have, mine is pretty fast but I'm sure it would work fine on slower systems. If it's too slow for you just select all the clips, right click, and select "create optimized media." If you already have "create optimized media" selected under import options then it will convert it automatically anyways.

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