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Messages - digital paradise

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106
For me, overall, I prefer the 24-105L for portrait work, but for more general purpose work, the 24-70L II is probably the better lens, over all.

Not sure whether to be frustrated or grateful after reading this.  ;)  I'm getting the 24-70 II, and had planned to sell my 24-105 this week.  But you've got a great point - the flexibility to go from wide to a headshot is very useful.  I'd not use it outdoors (where I prefer fast primes to blur the background), but rather indoors with a backdrop and monolight+Speedlites in softboxes.  In that situation, I'm stopped down a bit because I've got plenty of light and no need for background blur, and as you say, perfect sharpness isn't usually necessary or even desirable. 

If nothing else, I suppose I should hang onto the 24-105 for a while.

(By the way, I'm grateful - thanks!)

I would have kept my 24-105 if I had not needed funding for the new lens. Actually I did a lot of upgrades last fall.   

107
I had the 24-105 for about 5 years. Just sold it for the 24-70 II. The 24-105 did me well but it IMO was it was pretty bad @ 24 on a FF. Lots of distortion and soft corners. You can fix barrel distortion but people on the outsides still looked like they weighed an additional 30 lbs.

I had been looking for a landscape lens for years for my FF for years. Used a Tokina 11-16 on my crop in the meantime. I rented the 24 TSE II and Zeiss 21. Both excellent but one was a specialty lens, the other a little costly for the the features. I'm glad I held out. The 24-70 II is not perfect but it is pretty good. Has some barrel dist and vignetting but corner to corner a very decent lens. Sold my Tokina and now I have a versatile workhorse. I'm upset it did not come with IS but have found I'm not really missing it. Still would have liked it for the price.

24mm 2.8



You might want to check this out. Sample shots get better after several posts.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1225646

I posted some shots on Post #308   

108
Canon General / Re: your scariest photography moment?
« on: March 11, 2013, 01:38:06 AM »
Every time I talk to my wife about purchasing new equipment.

+1 lol

Mine is whenever my wife logs into our amazon account after I've ordered a new lens.  Tomorrow should be fun... Just ordered the 135mm f/2L yesterday.  :-)

Good luck!

109
Canon General / Re: your scariest photography moment?
« on: March 11, 2013, 01:04:17 AM »
Every time I talk to my wife about purchasing new equipment. 

110
NIK will. Not sure about the other.

111
Same process applies when using DPP. I stopped using 3rd party NR software because it just slowed down my workflow. Using Lr or ACR I can just adjust one image the way I like and just sync the rest or in DPP's case use the recipe. Careful when using DPP recipes as it will make across the board changes if you make any other changes to the original image. Using Lr/ACR you can select which adjustment or adjustments you want to sync.

Oh yeah. Do NR adjustments at 100% like in the sample images.         

112
Lr4 and CS6(ACR) are very good. Both the same. I have Dfine and Topaz and don't use them anymore. I noticed that you mentioned Lr3. Not familiar with it as I did not get into it until Lr4. Liked it so much I started using CS6 as well.

As how to use it correctly. ISO 12,800. No NR applied. The image looks both noisy and the colour is splotchy. LR and ACR colour noise defaults to 25 so put it back to zero for this demo.   



First you adjust the colour noise until the colour no longer looks splotchy. When you achieve this stop as there are no benefits to go any further. DPP calls it Chrominance which is technically the correct term.

   

Then you adjust the Luminance until the noise or grain is acceptable to you. This adjustment effects image sharpness. The higher you go the less sharp. It is a juggling act between the two and it is to your taste.

   

Final results



113
Software & Accessories / Re: Which wireless radio control for the 5D3?
« on: March 08, 2013, 06:53:23 PM »
Sorry to the OP. I misunderstood the question  :-[

114
Software & Accessories / Re: Which wireless radio control for the 5D3?
« on: March 07, 2013, 08:08:24 AM »
Check out Phottix Odin. I went with Canon RT (600EX-RT and STE3) but if I had not then I would have went with Phottix. Half the cost of PW and they work better.

By the way there is no specific wireless for your camera. The 5D3 has no wireless features. The only advantage with going Canon RT is you can access and control flash menus for on and off camera flash via LCD screen. Any 3rd party RT will just say for Canon. Canon RT is rated at 100ft.       

116
Your welcome.

118
Lighting / Re: Which flash for a 5d mkIII
« on: March 04, 2013, 03:13:16 PM »
Another vote for the 600. 

119
Lighting / Re: Bounce flash with YN-568 question
« on: March 03, 2013, 01:09:45 PM »

120
Lighting / Re: Bounce flash with YN-568 question
« on: March 03, 2013, 01:06:56 PM »
ETTL is a good tool but it as a computer trying to make it's best guess of what you want. In ETTL there is a pre flash before the actual flash. If your lens provides distance information it will do so as a confirmation when the flash is at 45 degrees and pointed forward. As soon as you tilt or swivel the flash distance information is disabled.

When you bounce ETTL is supposed to compensate but I would not trust it. Are you bouncing from a wall that is 5 or 25 feet away? Your cameras light meter has nothing to do with flash exposure but ETTL does use the system to determine exposure. Depending on your camera you can make a few changes. Typically the flash is set to evaluative but you can go into the menus and change to average. In evaluative mode the pre flash compares the ambient reading from the cameras light meter and the pre flash, isolates the subject and then outputs the correct flash power for the subject/s exposure. In average the system averages the whole scene. Ok in tight situations but no so good in large areas like a convention centre. Some people think average is better but I found the difference not substantial. There is one more thing you can try. FEL. This turns your flash metering to spot metering. Some people use FEL and meter off skin tones and adjust the FEC as required. I don't like it because it fires a pre flash and the waits for you to press the shutter. I always had to tell people to wait as the first flash was not the actual exposure.

Back to ETTL and the cameras exposure system. Like I said the system does not use the cameras light meter but does use the pre flash to determine correct exposure. A bride in a white dress, a groom in black tux and the bride and groom together will all reflect light back differently. So like your cameras ambient light meter that will expose to middle grey if you take picture of black tar or white snow the flash system will under expose the bride and over expose the groom.

So there you have it. Using ETTL you will always have to shoot, chimp and fine tune the FEC. Your histogram is your best friend when shooting in ETTL. Now that you understand it you can make better judgements to predict. When bouncing you will have to increase the FEC most of the time. When I have no choice I shoot in ETTL but will always choose manual flash if  have the time to set up and the environment will not be changing.

Here is a good link for how to use the histogram. Scroll down and look at the look at the gent holding the white towel.

http://super.nova.org/DPR/Histogram/

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