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Messages - digital paradise

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Emergency wedding, of sorts.
« on: January 26, 2013, 01:03:13 PM »
This is my flash guru. I explained high ISO shooting and just mentioned the word bouncing the light off the flash. If I have to shoot direct flash I put my flash on a bracket. Getting the flash even a little higher off the camera makes a big difference. It eliminates red eye and that is usually how we see light every day - coming from above, not directly at us.

My point here is this exceptional wedding photographer and teacher stopped using brackets because of modern high ISO capable cameras. Like I said before the flash does not have to work as hard so the while image looks more natural. I am moving away from brackets.

This site may be too much to absorb in one week but if you plan to continue then get into it. This is the only site you may need.           

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Emergency wedding, of sorts.
« on: January 26, 2013, 12:44:04 PM »
Are you being paid? I'd forget about the lens unless you have disposable income to play with. It is a very nice lens but you currently have decent coverage. The 85 will be a sharper and faster than your 28-75 but how much difference will it make based on your friends expectations. Your 50 1.4 is fast enough to cover low light situations.

Where is everything happening? Standard Wedding  - church, formals at some other location, reception at some hall?

I know there are natural light photographers which is great if it is available. You will probably wind up in a dark venue and unless your camera can shoot very high ISO you will need a flash. Even with with the 50 1.4 you will need some fill.       

Now the flash. This opens a whole new world. One week is not a lot of time to prepare to really understand how the flash and camera work together. What I mean by that is how to control them separately. Even though the flash is attached to your camera they have two separate jobs. In fact your camera does not care about what your flash is doing and the flash does not care what your camera is doing.

Your camera exposes for ambient or available light using the cameras light meter. When you put your flash on the camera the light meter has nothing to do with flash. It can't because the flash has not fired yet and your system cannot predict flash output.

So as I said your camera has a job and the flash has a job. The camera exposes for ambient and the flash exposes for your subject/s. It is often referred to - two exposures in one.

Watch this video. It is a Pocket Wizard ad but has great animations. At minute 2:30 you will see the shutter open and expose the ambient light or first exposure. It may not be much of an exposure but it is an exposure. Then the flash fires to illuminate the subject - the second part of the exposure. Note: You don't need PW because that is for off camera high speed sync. Also you don't need to know anything about HSS now but it is interesting to see how your shutter and flash work together.

I'm not sure what your camera is but if you get a flash I would suggest you keep things simple and put the camera P mode and set your flash to ETTL. ETTL fires a pre flash to determine correct exposure of your subject. It is a good tool and gets you close but is not an exact science. The next step is learn how to adjust the Flash Exposure Compensation or FEC. After each shot check the histogram, adjust the FEC as required and shoot again. My guess is there will be enough white to work with. That is all you need.

Here is a link on how to interpret the histogram. If you get whites right the rest of the exposure falls into place. Again remember this is for your subject, not the ambient or surrounding light.  Scroll down to the gent holding the white towel.

So when using the flash we have the camera on P mode and flash on ETTL and we adjust FEC as required for subject exposure. Now the best way to use flash is put the camera on manual when using flash. In P mode you don't have a lot of control over depth of field. Actually there is little difference between P and M modes. In P the camera controls shutter and DOF and in M you do. This gets a little complex and I can get into that if you wish but like I said one week is not very long for this learning curve.

Next when using flash I would suggest shooting with the highest ISO you are comfortable with. 1600 - 3200 even better. This brings in more ambient light so the flash does not have to work as hard, there is better balance between flash and ambient thus the images look more natural, not like your subject/s have been nuked.

So far. Camera on P, flash on ETTL, learn how to use FCE and use a higher ISO.

If you are going to use a flash I would get it yesterday and start practising. If you do later I will explain why the flash head rotates (bouncing the light) and how that gets better, more even/pleasing flash exposures.

Here is a list that may help you.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Help to make my decision.
« on: January 26, 2013, 12:09:58 AM »
5D2 for what you do if you are thinking about going FF. Mind you with a couple of other lenses you can do very well with the 7D. I had a Tokina 11-16 which is a very sharp corner corner lens. The Canon 85 1.8 is a inexpensive and excellent portrait lens.   

I have both the 7D and 5D3 (had 5D2) and you can't been the IQ you get out of a FF but I can't imagine giving up either. I also shoot sports and wildlife (birding) so each body has it's place.           

Tokina @ 11mm

Software & Accessories / Re: Noise in Lightroom vs DPP
« on: January 25, 2013, 08:19:29 PM »
Are you comparing apples to to oranges? Is the auto in camera NR and in DPP off? Is sharpening in DPP off? Are LR NR and sharpening sliders at zero?       

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7D - How bad is it? Really?
« on: January 25, 2013, 12:49:44 PM »

100% crop

Software & Accessories / Re: Starting to work with RAW. Help?
« on: January 25, 2013, 12:40:34 PM »
Yes start off with DPP.  Then I would suggest to take a serious look at LR if you are doing mass edits.

Module 5 starts with what are raw images. Good to go through it all but 1 to 4 talk about what is new in DPP. If you have not used it then you may find it confusing.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7D - How bad is it? Really?
« on: January 25, 2013, 12:32:45 PM »
Nice sharp pics.

Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: January 24, 2013, 10:26:29 PM »

Black & White / Re: Black & White
« on: January 24, 2013, 10:15:16 PM »
A few more

Black & White / Re: Black & White
« on: January 24, 2013, 10:07:43 PM »
A few of mine

Canon General / Re: Don't order camera gear from online store
« on: January 24, 2013, 09:46:28 PM »
It is legit. Happened to a member at POTN and was raked through the coals but came out clean.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Canon 600EX-RT review
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:12:10 PM »
Nice work.

Just curious why you choose 3200 for portraits? That is my preferred setting for my 5D3 and like you will go higher but that is for dark venues while run and gun shooting.

If I set up a couple of lights I shoot at 400. I may have misread what yo mean by portraits.         

Oh, by portrait I generally meant single subjects even if lighting isn't controlled. So that includes dark locations where 3200 might still be needed. If lighting is an option, I agree with 400. Great quality at those ISO levels!

That was what I thought. Just wanted to clarify. .

I doubt the frequencies are the same. I do know this. You can put a transmitter into a Sekonic flash meter that will work with PW and fire a flash when a PW receiver/transmitter is attached to the flash. Sorry don't know what the mini or flex actually do so I just called it receiver/transmitter.  The Sekonic won't fire the 600.

I contacted Sekonic to see if they were ever planning to develop a transmitter that would fire a 600 and they said no. They are partners with PW. So if the Sekonic and PW are on their own frequencies as opposed to Canons then as I said I doubt it will work.


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