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Messages - neuroanatomist

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iPhone   :o

... a body that makes my 120-300 2.8 become a 240-600 2.8 would be a dream.

A camera can't do that. Focal length is an intrinsic property of the lens (unless you believe the lies of Panasonic's marketing department).  It's called a 'crop factor' because a smaller sensor is cropping the image, using a smaller portion of the image circle.

A 2x crop sensor with a 120-300/2.8 gives the FoV of a 240-600mm lens on FF, and the DoF of a 240-600mm f/5.6 lens on FF (the crop factor applies to DoF for the same framing).  While the lens is always f/2.8 in terms of exposure (which is determined by light per unit area), image noise is determined by the total area of the sensor - the 2x crop sensor at ISO 400 will have the same noise level as a FF sensor at ISO 1600 - that negates the 'crop advantage' of the f/2.8 lens in terms of shutter speed.

The bottom line is that what the crop sensor gives you is more pixels on target (and that's based on the APS-C having a higher pixel density - if you compare the 5DII to the 20D, the crop sensor has no 'reach advantage').  In practice, the FF can give you the same shutter speed with the same noise for the same DoF (when stopping down the lens of FF), but FF gives you the option of a thinner DoF if you want it.  If you crop a FF image to the FoV of APS-C (or 2x), at low ISO the IQ is equivalent and at higher ISO the FF will have better IQ.  So the real question becomes, how many MP do you need for your desired output?  If ~8 MP is enough (prints up to 16x24"), then the 'crop advantage' of APS-C is an illusion and you'd be better off just cropping your FF images in post. 

</soapbox>  ;)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D MK iii - Help a n00b select AF modes
« on: March 13, 2013, 11:21:40 PM »
Really, your best bet is to play with them and see what works for you. My personal preference is usually to not let the camera choose my subject. I do use 8-pt expansion for birds in flight, and 61-pt auto with AI Servo for the face-tracking feature (but that's only on the 1D X).

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D MK iii - Help a n00b select AF modes
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:53:48 PM »
Single point most of the time.

Lenses / Re: Best filter
« on: March 13, 2013, 08:25:22 PM »
For you, I recommend the B+W F-Pro Gold MRC UV.  Unlike all those plain, black-ringed filters, that one is a shiny gold color and looks really cool (which is very important, as you know).

Here are the videos. I do not see a difference.

The point wasn't a video with the hood, but OF the hood.  Don't bother, just enjoy your cool-looking (but less functional) petal hood.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: In-camera noise reduction
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:54:12 AM »
Long exposure NR (where a dark frame is taken after the exposure and subtracted) is applied to the RAW image.  No other form of in-camera NR is applied to the RAW image.

Software & Accessories / Re: Tri Pods!!!!!
« on: March 12, 2013, 11:16:38 PM »
I opted for the MH-01 LR as sometimes I need to swap bodies/lenses  on my mono.

Love the LR clamps, but I picked the screw clamp for the monopod because I often carry that rig over my shoulder, and was concerned about the lever catching on a pack strap.

Software & Accessories / Re: Tri Pods!!!!!
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:25:44 PM »
RRS. It really is the right stuff. Really!  I have the TQC-14 + BH-30 for travel, and the TVC-33 + BH-55 and the PG-02 LLR gimbal, MC-34 monopod with MH-02 Pro head, macro rail, etc. - it's all top notch.

Manfrotto is about the ideal compromise between quality and value, IMO.

Plus, it looks cooler.

Clearly, the most important criterion when choosing a lens hood...or any gear, for that matter. Can I interest you in the special Jackie Chan edition of the 550D?  It's more expensive than the T2i, but it looks really cool!

However, I bought it as a recommendation from sites.

I ran across a site with recommendations on how to jump off the Golden Gate Bridge. I guess I'd better not post the link...   :o

The petal hood has come in. There is NO vignette with the 18-55mm.

Well, that's good.  The point of a properly-designed petal hood is that the 'petals' can stick out beyond where the baseline of the round hood would be, based on the rectangular shape of the sensor vs. the round shape of the image circle.  Since the petal hood you bought does not vignette as it rotates around, that simply means the 'gaps' are recessed from the baseline where the round hood would extend, rather than the petals extending beyond.  In other words, the hood you bought will most likely offer less protection from flare than the round hood designed by Canon.

But hey, lots of people prefer looks over function, so you're in good company there.   :)

Lenses / Re: Need to test my lens for sharpness
« on: March 12, 2013, 01:16:11 PM »
This sharpness issue wont effect a RAW image will it?
Noise reduction isn't applied to RAW captures I believe.

Only Long Exposure NR is applied to RAW images. 

Software & Accessories / Re: 1d X "silent" mode.
« on: March 12, 2013, 12:33:44 PM »
Is this true (electronic first curtain) for other camera models as well (E.g. 5d3), or just the 1dx?

It's true for almost all of them, although with the higher end cameras (like the 7D, 5DII/III, 1-series) you have to have it set to the default Silent LV Shooting Mode 1, i.e. disabling Silent LV shooting means no electronic first curtain.  With the lower end cameras (Rebel/xxxD, not sure about the xxD), EFC is always on for LV shooting.

It works if you just hold the button down after the shot and walk away :oP

Actually, the real solution for a silent shooting mode on the 1D X is just to shoot from further away:

Software & Accessories / Re: 1d X "silent" mode.
« on: March 12, 2013, 12:20:37 PM »
So in theory, mirror locked up, live view shooting could be a kind of silent mode?

Yes, Live View is quieter than regular shooting.  It also uses an electronic first curtain shutter and that eliminates another  source of vibration - that makes Live View ideal for tripod-mounted shooting of static subjects. 

Software & Accessories / Re: 1d X "silent" mode.
« on: March 12, 2013, 11:51:33 AM »
Agreed - the shutter needed to be robust to move at 12 fps and last 400K cycles, I suspect they made it as quiet as they could...

I wouldn't think the shutter drove the design as much as the mirror mechanism. Shutters have been capable of opening and closing over the frame at 1/8000 sec.
You're right, of course.  I meant mirror (which also has to flip at 12 fps).  Although the shutter makes a slight contribution to the noise, most of it comes from the mirror.

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