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Messages - wopbv4

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Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: January 27, 2013, 04:42:21 AM »
1DX, 70-200 F2.8 L II +2xIII, iso 1600, F11, 1/1250.

Technical Support / Re: 1DX CR2 files won't preview on IMac
« on: January 24, 2013, 02:00:01 AM »

upto around October 2012, I had the same problem. After installing Mountain Lion 10.8 the problem was fixed

see also:

It also states :

"To install Digital Camera RAW Compatibility Updates, you may need certain versions of Aperture or iPhoto already installed on your Mac."

Hope this helps


Hope this helps.

I have a flipside 400 AW and my 1DX, with 70-200 F2.8 II happily fits with room to spare . That combo is ~38 cm long.

When I fit a 2X, it becomes ~ 42 cm long and it JUST fits in the 400AW.

I have had the same question, 300 vs 400 and I am happy that I decided for the 400. It takes the above plus a 16-35, 24-70 and a 100 mm macro without any problems.

I find that the 400 series are a similar size as a normal daypack for hiking.

The internals of the pro-trekker are very similar to the flipside that I have, the only difference is that the flipside opens at the back.  I find this usefull, because when you put the pack on the ground to take a lens out, the front will get dirty, and not the back.

This probably confused more then helps.

Lenses / Re: Workaround for Loose Lens Cap on 8-15mm Fisheye
« on: December 24, 2012, 09:21:33 PM »
Indeed, I used superglue.
for me it is important that the lens is protected in my camera bag.
In use, I do not use the lens cap/lenshood at all on my 1DX.

Initially I used your solution with scratch resistant paper, but on several of my hiking trips the lenscap came off in by backpack, so I glued the cap and the hood together

Reviews / Re: Review - Canon EF 8-15 f/4L Fisheye
« on: November 12, 2012, 04:57:09 PM »
together about 80$ at B&H. I checked this before I glued them together.

Reviews / Re: Review - Canon EF 8-15 f/4L Fisheye
« on: November 11, 2012, 11:36:01 PM »
Actually the only thing the hood is good for is peripheral protection of the front element.  Unless I'm going for a 180 degree shot I just leave it on for that extra protective ring.  The flourine coatings on these are super hard and dust/grime resistant and fortunately easily cleaned with a dry lens cloth.  Though I have used eyeglass cleaner to get rid of rain spots, most should never need more than a clean dry cotton lint free cloth.

As noted in the article fish eyes are not for everyone.  I reserve this lens for extreme close up work where I just need the short working range this lens provides.  It's great for in car photography and video.  I've used it also in drive through safari's where animals come up to your window.  It's also been useful during hikes and rock climbs where you cant always back up to get your subject in view.  You can honestly shoot a person from 2 feet away and capture nearly all of them and decent background so I would say this is good for people who like rock climbing or caving where you just don't have the luxury of distance to capture your subject.

I have tried being creative with the distortions but I dont find it too practical in that sense.  It's just another tool in the bag when a 20 or 24mm lens just isn't wide enough or when you need to film in close confinement such as in a car.

I got so frustrated with the lenscap that I  have superglued the lenscap and the lenshood together, so it has become rigid. So, the lens is protected when it is in my camearbag, but is not protected at all when in use

Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 03:09:43 AM »
Hi ,

looks to me as serious case of front focusing.
I believe that you took this picture with the camera angled down.

Anyway, the leaves at the bottom of the picture (5 o'clock) are sharper then leaves behind it. Also purple flowers at 7 o'clock look a bit sharper then flowers at the centre. All this points to front focusing.

Please do a simple test. Put a ruler at a 45 degree angle and focus on the middle.  This should clearly show if you have a front focusing problem.

Hope this helps



does anybody have experience with the Manfrotto MVR911ECCN electronic remote?
Although it might be a good idea to use a "tethered" system for focusing, I am worried that the noise of the USM motors will be picked up, even with external microphones?

Furthermore, is the focusing accurate and fast?

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
« on: November 02, 2012, 09:27:54 PM »
EOS 1D X, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, 1/400 s, f/14, ISO 320

Yes, we do have a lot of light in Oz

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Does GP-E1 influence IS ?
« on: October 27, 2012, 07:07:25 PM »

it happened with 1.0.6

Since, I have upgraded to 1.1.1 and have not been able to reproduce the problem.

Thanks for your interest

Software & Accessories / Re: New Canon EOS Utility - 12.2.0
« on: October 12, 2012, 06:37:13 AM »

I downloaded EOS 2.12.0, running on Mac 10.7.5 .

Connected 1DX with RJ-45 cable and it WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!

I have complained many many times with the folks at Canon, without any real help.

Thank God that this release solves the problem

Hope this informs


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Does GP-E1 influence IS ?
« on: October 10, 2012, 05:44:02 PM »

I have noticed something strange. 1DX, GP-E1, 70-200 II with 2X.

I had the camera at a 45 degree angle, so half way between landscape and portrait, the IS system was making noisy and I was unable to auto focus.
I switched the camera off , back on again --> everything fine, up to about an hour later when I was pointing upward to take a shot of a bird high in tree.

It looks like that at certain angles ~ 45 degrees the GP-E1 gets confused.

I tried without the GP-E1 and I am unable to reproduce the "problem"

My questions:
1) has anybody had the same problem?
2) is the GP-E1 info used for IS?

This is a minor problem, just switch camera off on and it is solved. I am just curious?



Lighting / Re: ST-E3-RT & 600RT with Canon 5DIII
« on: September 28, 2012, 08:41:48 AM »
This is exactly what I did. I replaced the two 580 II with two 600s and the st-e3-rt.
For me the biggest plusses are:
Easy of use, everything can be driven from the camera (1DX), for example changing to HSS, just do it with the camera menu and the flashes change straight away to HSS. With the 580s you had to change it on the flash as well.
Radio control is a real plus. I use the small lastolite softboxes and was always cursing the line of sight issue, I mean the the soft boxes were "blocking" the optical transmission.
Radio control works fantastic, I put one behind a car and it happily fired.
Another (minor) plus is the extended zoom to 200 mm with 600s.

It was a lot of money to change, but as far as I am concerned, it was worth the money.

Lenses / Re: Which Macro?? Please help!
« on: September 14, 2012, 07:13:09 PM »

I have had great success taking pictures of watches using the focus stacking technique.

Please have a look at what the Helicon guys have on offer

also see

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 50 F1.2L And EF 35 F1.4L Sharpest Settings
« on: September 14, 2012, 06:54:36 PM »
please check

it shows that center is best at F4.

borders stay poor throughout the range.

Even the 50 F1.8 has better border performance.

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