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Messages - myone

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16
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: [crop + 35L] versus [FF + 50 f/1.4]
« on: December 14, 2012, 02:03:23 AM »
I was in a similar situation until a few months ago. I upgraded to 5D3 from a 40D, and I also own a 50/1.4 and 35L at that time.

When paired with 35L on the 5D3, sometimes, it gets a little short for street photography. But at a same time, you gain more information on the wide side. Packing more information into frames is more appealing to me. I guess it is a matter of personal preference. I ended up selling my 50/1.4 and keeping the 35L, because with 35L, I use it to shoot wide open. The 35L beats the 50/1.4 hands down at aperture 2.2 and below.

Even though the 35L urgently need an update, I still don't understand why people are bashing it so greatly. After all, it is still a very good lens, at least to me and my shooting style. If you love doing fancy dining and taking food pictures, it is very hard to do that with the 50/1.4 due to the 1.5' MFD. I initially bought the 50/1.4 for this purpose, but noticed focusing is hard when you are sitting at the table, and you have to stretch far away from the table to get shots. The 35L is the answer for this, works perfectly on the 40D and now the 5D3 with only 0.98' MFD.

For wide open, you will love the 35L. It is an old lens, but why look at the age of your tool if it is able to give you results that you love?

17
Lenses / Re: 50 1.4 on 5d3 anyone?
« on: December 11, 2012, 03:33:26 PM »
The 50 1.4 is definitely a great lens and it takes sharp pictures at f/2.0 and above. However, I sold my copy a few months ago after knowing Canon might release a new version.

It is a good combo for 5D3, but since you are investing money on a new lens that I am sure you will enjoy, it is always smart to consider the longevity of the lens. The main reason I sold the lens is because of its micro USM, which is prone to go bad if you are not careful or if you are not lucky.

18
Animal Kingdom / Re: MY dog
« on: November 21, 2012, 02:49:57 AM »
My 4 years old maltese

19
Lenses / Any words on 70-200 f/2.8 L II (non IS version)?
« on: November 13, 2012, 01:29:49 PM »
As we all know, the EF 70-200 f2.8 IS II has been out for a while now. Any words if its sibling 70-200 2.8 L II is coming out any time soon? The lens was released roughly about 17 years ago (since 1995) and it is still a good lens.

I am thinking to get a 2.8 non IS version and afraid a new one is on the list being released soon. I don't need it right away, so I can wait.

Heard anything, anyone? Thanks

20
myone,  this is exactly the direction I was thinking of going too.  What brand of insert do you use. I was thinking either the f-stop medium or the crumpler Haven Lg


bklein61:

I am using the Mountain Smith Kit Cube
http://www.mountainsmith.com/products.asp?productId=290&categoryId=13&subCategoryId=29&subCategory2Id=0
It has a storm cover with drawstring, perfect for double protection from water.

As noted by a forum member earlier, the Guru F-Stop is another great choice but you are paying a lot more money for a heavier 2.6 lb backpack. When traveling, the lighter the better.
http://fstopgear.com/en/guru

I am using the Northface Angstrom 30. This little 33 liter pack has a lot of storage. It is built with very lightweight material, weight 1+ lb and has an internal pouch for TNF water bladder/laptop/ipad, etc. The materials are very durable, sealed zipper for complete water proof. Also the backpack itself is waterproof, and comes with a water resistant jacket in case you need it. My last trip to Asia ran into many days with heavy downpour. I was on waterproof jacket without umbrellas and the backpack was exposed to heavy rain all the time. I did not even have to use the included water proof jacked that is tucked into the side water bottle pouch.
http://www.thenorthface.com/catalog/sc-gear/equipment-technical-packs/angstrom-30_2.html?from=subCat&variationId=JK3&cm_mmc=Google-_-ProductListingAds-_-Product_Terms-_-The%20North%20Face%20Angstrom%2030%20Pack%20Tnf%20Black%20OS

The backpack is also built with breathable back support material, chest strap to load even the weight, as well as waist straps. One neat thing is that the waist strap can be tucked/hidden inside the back support panel if not needed.

The Mountain Smith insert is wide enough that I can just rest my 40D + 24-70 with hood attached on top of it. The dividers are strong enough to let the camera+lens rest on top of it side way with a good amount of "collapse" to secure it from moving around.

It worked well for my last trip and will be using the pack and insert again this year for my 3 weeks in Asia. This time, I will also bring my Crumpler 6 Million Dollar bag for more city friendly.

21
My solution is to get a The North Face backpack and an insert. The insert has 3 compartments that allow you to bring your camera with a lens attached and 2 additional lenses. With other compartments available in the backpack, you can bring a whole lot more. Also, it looks stealthy. I had my bag for a few trips including a 3 weeks Asia trip last year and ran into stormy days. The bag was able to keep my camera dry at all times. I will be bringing the same bag setup to another 3 weeks trip to Asia in Oct.

Another benefit, a backpack allows you to throw in things you buy during the trip. With a real camera bag, most rooms are partitioned and you can hardly put anything else in there other than camera gears.

22
Street & City / Re: Night Skyline
« on: August 31, 2012, 11:53:29 AM »
Here is mine :-)

23
Landscape / Re: 17-40 f4 for lower light vs 16-35 f2.8
« on: August 28, 2012, 04:45:47 PM »
When I bought my 40D, I never really consider the 16-35 due to its price. Shooting 17-40 on a cropped body eliminates the softness on corners, and 3 years using it with my 40D left me without much complains at all. After all, I saved the extra $ on some other lenses that I wanted at that time. I even shot many pics at f/4.0 on many of my vacations and even family weddings, both handheld and on tripod. The 17-40 at its price, again is a winner.

Then, I purchased the 35L f/1.4 and the 24-70 f/2.8. Since the 24-70 is on my camera all the time. If I want high quality images, I will use my 35/1.4. If I want wide angle, I will use the 17-40. Ever since I bought the 24-70 and 35/1.4, I seldom use the 17-40 anymore.

Early this year, I finally made the leap and bought 5D3. With 5D3, the 24-70 again becomes my lens of choice, followed by the 35L. The 17-40 is only used when I want ultra wide. For all other photography such as vacation, walk around, street shooting, I would reach out for 24-70 and 35.

My point is, save the $ for other good lenses. When you build up your lens selections, you will notice the UWA (17-40 or 16-35) will be used less and less because it is just too wide. Also both 24-70 and 35 give better color and contrasts. So save some money buy the 17-40 and save the extra cash for something else that will give you more creative perspectives on your photography.

This is from my own personal experience. Hope this helps.

24
Portrait / Speedlight for perfect night portraits
« on: August 27, 2012, 02:14:57 PM »
Hi,

I am still trying to master speedlight/night portrait photography, and ever since I upgraded to 5D3 with no built in flash, I am having difficulties using my 430EXII to get the correct exposure for night photography.

The usual setting would be trying to take pictures of people standing in front of a background scene at night. Whenever I try to use my speed light, the subject would turn out too bright and the background went completely dark.

I have read many forums and they all discussed different methods to achieve balance between nicely lit subject and visible background night scape.

So my question is, what is the correct settings for taking such pictures? I want to be able to use my 430EXII as my primary light for family vacation pictures, giving enough lightning to the subject as well as capturing the background night scape.

Any help is much appreciated, and yes, I am just starting to learn more about night photography with external flash :-)

25
Landscape / Re: Beautiful sunsets
« on: August 27, 2012, 04:09:59 AM »
Here are a couple from me...

26
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Wedding Photography Photos - 5d MK III
« on: August 17, 2012, 05:04:36 PM »
5D mk III and 70-200/2.8L IS II

Really nice pics!!

27
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Wedding Photography Photos - 5d MK III
« on: August 17, 2012, 04:51:59 PM »
I am not a professional photographer and I am still learning how to take good pics as well as edit them to perfections.

I ran into this site http://www.dickyleung.com/#/Home/ click "Portfolio" at the bottom page.

This is a really good site with a lot of nice pics to reflect great colors, accurate white balance, styles, etc. I think this is a good example of what a paid pro wedding photographer should produce ;-)

Have fun guys!

28
Lenses / Re: Recommendations for vacation lenses and gear
« on: July 17, 2012, 03:50:38 PM »
I was just at SD Zoo 2 days ago and here is what I observed.

1) It's hot and sunny. The animals will be sleeping or hiding under shades and not easily seen. Thus, they are not easy to be shot no matter what lens you have.
2) About 1/2 of the animals on display are behind thick glasses. With the amount of reflections and glare, it is impossible to get good shots. I even tried circular polarizer filter, doesn't help
3) For everything else behind wires and cages, you will need 70-200.

I was shooting 5D3 and the longest lens I have is 24-70, which doesn't do any good. My wife was shooting a T2i with 24-105. She was able to get some good shots, but for some, it is still not quite long enough.

After a while shooting animals, you will get bored because they do not move much. The best bet is to put the focus on your kids, and only shoot animals that are interesting to see. After all, your kids will give you expressions. The animals will be just laying on the floors or branches, sleeping.

29
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post Your 4th of July Photos
« on: July 07, 2012, 04:59:37 AM »
Revup: Yes I noticed that too. I have been trying to get it smooth but not much luck. I even turned down sharpening all the way to "0", and tried your settings, still getting jagged lines.

Is that my settings that is causing the jagged lines? What might be causing this?


myone....fine shots..with good control over the exposure as well.  I noted my 5D MK3 is performing the same as yours is doing as an example with your first photo. (I thought it was mine only originally as I didn't see this issue two years prior with the 7D).  Do you see how the how the fall off of the fireworks has that "saw blade" look to it?  I caught this immediately so I post processed in DPP with these settings..see if they help you:
contrast -4
highlight -2
shadow +3
color saturation +1
Unsharp - all at zero
I'm sure there are other apps where that would soften the photo even further

My photo had a smoother effect (not eliminated though).  I am sure I could have played around with it more but was pleased with the outcome.  I also saved the recipe to apply to others.  I hope this helps you.

30
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post Your 4th of July Photos
« on: July 06, 2012, 03:33:57 AM »
2 more  ;)

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