May 26, 2013, 02:14:42 AM

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Messages - myone

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16
myone,  this is exactly the direction I was thinking of going too.  What brand of insert do you use. I was thinking either the f-stop medium or the crumpler Haven Lg


bklein61:

I am using the Mountain Smith Kit Cube
http://www.mountainsmith.com/products.asp?productId=290&categoryId=13&subCategoryId=29&subCategory2Id=0
It has a storm cover with drawstring, perfect for double protection from water.

As noted by a forum member earlier, the Guru F-Stop is another great choice but you are paying a lot more money for a heavier 2.6 lb backpack. When traveling, the lighter the better.
http://fstopgear.com/en/guru

I am using the Northface Angstrom 30. This little 33 liter pack has a lot of storage. It is built with very lightweight material, weight 1+ lb and has an internal pouch for TNF water bladder/laptop/ipad, etc. The materials are very durable, sealed zipper for complete water proof. Also the backpack itself is waterproof, and comes with a water resistant jacket in case you need it. My last trip to Asia ran into many days with heavy downpour. I was on waterproof jacket without umbrellas and the backpack was exposed to heavy rain all the time. I did not even have to use the included water proof jacked that is tucked into the side water bottle pouch.
http://www.thenorthface.com/catalog/sc-gear/equipment-technical-packs/angstrom-30_2.html?from=subCat&variationId=JK3&cm_mmc=Google-_-ProductListingAds-_-Product_Terms-_-The%20North%20Face%20Angstrom%2030%20Pack%20Tnf%20Black%20OS

The backpack is also built with breathable back support material, chest strap to load even the weight, as well as waist straps. One neat thing is that the waist strap can be tucked/hidden inside the back support panel if not needed.

The Mountain Smith insert is wide enough that I can just rest my 40D + 24-70 with hood attached on top of it. The dividers are strong enough to let the camera+lens rest on top of it side way with a good amount of "collapse" to secure it from moving around.

It worked well for my last trip and will be using the pack and insert again this year for my 3 weeks in Asia. This time, I will also bring my Crumpler 6 Million Dollar bag for more city friendly.

17
My solution is to get a The North Face backpack and an insert. The insert has 3 compartments that allow you to bring your camera with a lens attached and 2 additional lenses. With other compartments available in the backpack, you can bring a whole lot more. Also, it looks stealthy. I had my bag for a few trips including a 3 weeks Asia trip last year and ran into stormy days. The bag was able to keep my camera dry at all times. I will be bringing the same bag setup to another 3 weeks trip to Asia in Oct.

Another benefit, a backpack allows you to throw in things you buy during the trip. With a real camera bag, most rooms are partitioned and you can hardly put anything else in there other than camera gears.

18
Street & City / Re: Night Skyline
« on: August 31, 2012, 11:53:29 AM »
Here is mine :-)

19
Landscape / Re: 17-40 f4 for lower light vs 16-35 f2.8
« on: August 28, 2012, 04:45:47 PM »
When I bought my 40D, I never really consider the 16-35 due to its price. Shooting 17-40 on a cropped body eliminates the softness on corners, and 3 years using it with my 40D left me without much complains at all. After all, I saved the extra $ on some other lenses that I wanted at that time. I even shot many pics at f/4.0 on many of my vacations and even family weddings, both handheld and on tripod. The 17-40 at its price, again is a winner.

Then, I purchased the 35L f/1.4 and the 24-70 f/2.8. Since the 24-70 is on my camera all the time. If I want high quality images, I will use my 35/1.4. If I want wide angle, I will use the 17-40. Ever since I bought the 24-70 and 35/1.4, I seldom use the 17-40 anymore.

Early this year, I finally made the leap and bought 5D3. With 5D3, the 24-70 again becomes my lens of choice, followed by the 35L. The 17-40 is only used when I want ultra wide. For all other photography such as vacation, walk around, street shooting, I would reach out for 24-70 and 35.

My point is, save the $ for other good lenses. When you build up your lens selections, you will notice the UWA (17-40 or 16-35) will be used less and less because it is just too wide. Also both 24-70 and 35 give better color and contrasts. So save some money buy the 17-40 and save the extra cash for something else that will give you more creative perspectives on your photography.

This is from my own personal experience. Hope this helps.

20
Portrait / Speedlight for perfect night portraits
« on: August 27, 2012, 02:14:57 PM »
Hi,

I am still trying to master speedlight/night portrait photography, and ever since I upgraded to 5D3 with no built in flash, I am having difficulties using my 430EXII to get the correct exposure for night photography.

The usual setting would be trying to take pictures of people standing in front of a background scene at night. Whenever I try to use my speed light, the subject would turn out too bright and the background went completely dark.

I have read many forums and they all discussed different methods to achieve balance between nicely lit subject and visible background night scape.

So my question is, what is the correct settings for taking such pictures? I want to be able to use my 430EXII as my primary light for family vacation pictures, giving enough lightning to the subject as well as capturing the background night scape.

Any help is much appreciated, and yes, I am just starting to learn more about night photography with external flash :-)

21
Landscape / Re: Beautiful sunsets
« on: August 27, 2012, 04:09:59 AM »
Here are a couple from me...

22
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Wedding Photography Photos - 5d MK III
« on: August 17, 2012, 05:04:36 PM »
5D mk III and 70-200/2.8L IS II

Really nice pics!!

23
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Wedding Photography Photos - 5d MK III
« on: August 17, 2012, 04:51:59 PM »
I am not a professional photographer and I am still learning how to take good pics as well as edit them to perfections.

I ran into this site http://www.dickyleung.com/#/Home/ click "Portfolio" at the bottom page.

This is a really good site with a lot of nice pics to reflect great colors, accurate white balance, styles, etc. I think this is a good example of what a paid pro wedding photographer should produce ;-)

Have fun guys!

24
Lenses / Re: Recommendations for vacation lenses and gear
« on: July 17, 2012, 03:50:38 PM »
I was just at SD Zoo 2 days ago and here is what I observed.

1) It's hot and sunny. The animals will be sleeping or hiding under shades and not easily seen. Thus, they are not easy to be shot no matter what lens you have.
2) About 1/2 of the animals on display are behind thick glasses. With the amount of reflections and glare, it is impossible to get good shots. I even tried circular polarizer filter, doesn't help
3) For everything else behind wires and cages, you will need 70-200.

I was shooting 5D3 and the longest lens I have is 24-70, which doesn't do any good. My wife was shooting a T2i with 24-105. She was able to get some good shots, but for some, it is still not quite long enough.

After a while shooting animals, you will get bored because they do not move much. The best bet is to put the focus on your kids, and only shoot animals that are interesting to see. After all, your kids will give you expressions. The animals will be just laying on the floors or branches, sleeping.

25
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post Your 4th of July Photos
« on: July 07, 2012, 04:59:37 AM »
Revup: Yes I noticed that too. I have been trying to get it smooth but not much luck. I even turned down sharpening all the way to "0", and tried your settings, still getting jagged lines.

Is that my settings that is causing the jagged lines? What might be causing this?


myone....fine shots..with good control over the exposure as well.  I noted my 5D MK3 is performing the same as yours is doing as an example with your first photo. (I thought it was mine only originally as I didn't see this issue two years prior with the 7D).  Do you see how the how the fall off of the fireworks has that "saw blade" look to it?  I caught this immediately so I post processed in DPP with these settings..see if they help you:
contrast -4
highlight -2
shadow +3
color saturation +1
Unsharp - all at zero
I'm sure there are other apps where that would soften the photo even further

My photo had a smoother effect (not eliminated though).  I am sure I could have played around with it more but was pleased with the outcome.  I also saved the recipe to apply to others.  I hope this helps you.

26
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post Your 4th of July Photos
« on: July 06, 2012, 03:33:57 AM »
2 more  ;)

27
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post Your 4th of July Photos
« on: July 06, 2012, 03:23:36 AM »
Taken at Exposition Park, Los Angeles

28
Lenses / Re: BATTLE OF THE PRIMES: F1.8 Vs F1.4
« on: May 10, 2012, 05:26:00 PM »
I started with 50/1.8, a fantastic lens at the price. Then about 2 years later, I upgraded to 50/1.4. The 50/1.4 is a better lens in term of IQ and constructions, but it is still prone to front element damage if you are not careful. That is why I have my lens hood on all the time to protect it from banging into things.

For some reason, the 50/1.4 could never satisfy me. After much trials and error, I finally figured out that 50 on cropped body (since you are getting a 60D) is just too tight. I mainly shoot landscape and street photography, and some portraits. That is when I moved to 35/1.4L. The 35 is just perfect. It is being sharpest at 1.4, and the colors and contrasts are just great. The min focusing distance also make it a very ideal lens for food photography if that is what you are into. The superior built also make it worth its price.

If I were you, I would rent the 50mm and see if that is the focal length you need. It is just too narrow for my taste. If you find that 50 is too narrow, then you might actually need a 35. It took me a while to figure out.

Good luck!

29
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Best place to buy 5D Mark III
« on: May 08, 2012, 03:38:06 AM »
Hi,

What is the best place to buy a 5D Mark III right now? I know Canon has start shipping after the light leak fix and I know some are getting their cameras already.

Anybody out there just placed order recently and received the camera already? If so, where did you buy it from? If pre-ordered, how long is the wait? Adorama? Amazon? or BH?

Thanks guys, trying to get one but not sure where to order it from.

30
Lenses / Re: Are primes really more sharp?
« on: April 26, 2012, 03:35:19 AM »
It is really hard to explain how good are primes without actually using it. Just rent one, spend some time with it and you will know.

I recently bought a 35L and love everything about it. The ability to take sharp pictures constantly at f/1.4 change the attitude and taste of your pictures. The smooth bokeh renditions, colors, contrasts really set it apart from zooms.

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