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Messages - Drizzt321

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631
Newer builds can shoot more than 4gb clips now.
for cards formatted in camera(file size limit of 4gb for those cards), it will automatically split the clip at 4gb
for cards formatted with EXT(probably completely wrong about the format name), it can record a single clip as big as your card

the newest builds of raw2dng can extract both.

Are you referring to exFAT? I didn't realize the 5d3 supported exFAT.

632
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study
« on: May 30, 2013, 01:47:01 PM »
Ah, I see, thanks for finding it :)

Yea, sounds like Canon is doing some crazy tricks. It's funny, Canon engineers clearly could have made a better/simpler output pipeline I'm sure with more or less the hardware that's in there, but I'll bet much of it was marketing & feature segmentation decisions to avoid that. Yet ML still has managed to coerce the camera into giving us this crazy high quality output.

633
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study
« on: May 30, 2013, 12:59:52 PM »
They're down-rezzing to 720p before upscaling to 1080p for output? Really? Wow.

I'm thinking I might put this on once it's more of a beta/official release. I have a few video friends, and I want to record a bit of something, hand them the file and ask them to see what they think :)

I'm trying to find a more concrete source for my assertion than my memory ;-)

So far, I find this article which I think is the original one I read and then followed the link to their facebook page. Facebook is blocked at my work, so that is as far as I can go to track it down right now: http://www.eoshd.com/content/10221/magic-lantern-discover-2k-raw-dng-function-on-5d-mark-ii-and-iii

Hmm...don't see anything on that article or the front of the FB page. Ah well, I'll take it with a grain of salt then.

634
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study
« on: May 30, 2013, 12:23:06 PM »
The difference is amazing, especially at high ISO.

What is the H.264 doing to the image to destroy the contrast and brilliance of the color?

It's not necessarily the compression. Most Canon DSLR sites recommend you turn the in-camera saturation, contrast, and sharpening down all or most of the way then add those grading steps later in your editor. This gives you the ability to tune it to the scene. When you import the DNG video frames using Adobe Camera RAW using the defaults, a contrast curve, and sharpening are applied. When I did the comparison of my fiance, I used something like -51 contrast, -20 saturation, and no sharpening in ACR to try to have a fair comparison.

I would suspect that what we are looking at here is just that...the H.264 was shot with in-camera processing turned down, but the ACR defaults.

I believe when the ML guys were posting their early success of getting RAW frames they mentioned that internally Canon is down-rezing the video to something like 720p before upscaling it to 1080p and converting to H.264. This would explain the lack of detail in Canon's H.264 output. They had to work around this to get real 1080p output. In other words, H.264 itself isn't the problem...the Vimeo video above is likely H.264 compressed. Also so are Bluray movies.

They're down-rezzing to 720p before upscaling to 1080p for output? Really? Wow.

I'm thinking I might put this on once it's more of a beta/official release. I have a few video friends, and I want to record a bit of something, hand them the file and ask them to see what they think :)

635
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: what to do
« on: May 29, 2013, 10:33:16 PM »
i shoot only landscapes

Where do you shoot your landscapes? Are you unhappy with your results now?

Some of your ISO woes may be because you have to hand-hold everything at the moment, while if you get a good tripod you don't have to bump it up so high, since you can exposure for a longer time. That won't freeze any action that is occurring unfortunately, but sometimes it's nice to have car light streaks :)



in cities, iso could be better on my camera


what about getting a speed light

Speedlite or strobes are fine for closeish use, but if you are trying to capture city-scapes, they won't realy help you at all. They aren't a sun or a nuke, they just can't put out that much light. If you're talking about people across the street or in front of you it could help, but you're going to be very, very visible.

636
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: 5d3 refurb
« on: May 29, 2013, 02:50:48 PM »
Actually, the Rokinon/Samyang/Bower 85mm is EF mount, so you can use it on your 5d3. It'll just be 85mm portrait length, rather than the ~136mm equivalent short telephoto you are used to. The Tamron 17-50, doesn't look like you can.

As for what lens(es) you may need, how do you usually shoot? Did you tend to stick at 1 or 2 focal lengths on your 17-50? Or were you all over the place? If you want a short telephoto, the Canon 135L is a great lens. Otherwise, the Tamron 24-70 is a very good lens. Not quite as good optically as the Canon 24-70 v2, but still quite good. And a lot less expensive.

Do you want to be able to zoom in/out during shooting? If so you should look at investing in a true cine lens, as they are parfocal while the vast majority of still photography lenses are not.

Otherwise, what's your preferred poison? Zoom lenses won't be faster than f/2.8, but you'll often be stopped down anyway to get the DoF you need. Especially on a FF 35mm sensor. However, as usual, primes tend to be sharper and have better IQ than zooms for a lesser price.

As for audio, the 5d3 does have an audio-out jack as well as in, however if you want to get into the MagicLantern RAW video, you'll need an external recorder as it won't record any audio at all so you'll need some kind of clapboard or similar to sync up the audio in post.

637
Few months ago I was shooting a school building. I was told it'd be empty, but there was some after school basketball tournament no-one told me about. I checked in at the office, they knew I was supposed to be there, and they gave me a visitor badge to wear. And every 5 minutes one of the teacher came to me, asking why I'm taking pictures of the kids. I tried to explain I was hoping the building was empty, as I didn't want people on the pics. Most took the explanation, but one older lady was really pressing me if I was really supposed to be there, and that was I really taking pictures of the building and not the kids.

Wow.
When did it become 'illegal' to take pictures of kids? What gives them special 'rights' the rest of us don't seem to have?

It's the fear that has been propagated by the media that everyone is out to kidnap and abuse your kids, or use them for some other nefarious reason. Especially men, they are teh debil, and obviously just looking for an excuse.

This is very unfortunate, as it could be a great challenge to shoot kids at a playground or something since they're moving all around so fast and always are doing something.

638
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: what to do
« on: May 28, 2013, 06:33:58 PM »
i shoot only landscapes

Where do you shoot your landscapes? Are you unhappy with your results now?

Some of your ISO woes may be because you have to hand-hold everything at the moment, while if you get a good tripod you don't have to bump it up so high, since you can exposure for a longer time. That won't freeze any action that is occurring unfortunately, but sometimes it's nice to have car light streaks :)



in cities, iso could be better on my camera

639
Canon General / Re: Pelican Storm Case Question
« on: May 28, 2013, 06:30:34 PM »
Dark and moist are the worst enemy that gear can have - the perfect environment for fungus. I use a series of Pelican 1620 cases to store gear in, but only on occasion do I keep lenses in there. With that said, I still have a ton of studio and lighting gear that gets used indoors and out. Usually, if I'm out with the gear shooting, I'll leave the cases open for a week or so an air-conditioned before closing and putting the gear away. I'm in Indiana, so our climates are fairly similar.

However, I do keep huge bags of molecular sieve in the cases to maintain dryness. I used to use silica gel, but got tired of it not drying the air enough in damp environments. I get the stuff from here for cheaper than usual: http://sorbentsystems.com/desiccant_overview.html I use the 80unit bags and the dry boxes in my mobile gear bags.

I also use the sieve to dry out submerged computers (I'm the IT director for quite a few businesses in our area and deal with bad users more often than I would like). Haven't had one that I couldn't fix yet...

Low humidity tends to be good for equipment, but you might not want it to be completely dry. Don't forget there are lubricants and such in lenses and they do need a certain amount of humidity. I agree on principle with throwing some silica packs, or that sorbent systems stuff you linked, but don't let it get bone dry.

640
EOS Bodies / Re: Patent - New Superzooms
« on: May 28, 2013, 02:21:13 PM »
I didn't even realize Canon had a EF 28-200, I thought the only FF super-zoom was the 28-300L, which while not super amazing was quite solidly decent to good.

641
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Stills photographer Doing some video
« on: May 26, 2013, 04:01:53 AM »
Were you planning on doing the editing? Or were you going to send that out? I'd recommend sending it out, and talking to whoever is going to be doing the editing first to get their recommendation on what settings to use as they may have some preferred picture style (such as Cinestyle).

642
Video & Movie / Re: Reshoots advice
« on: May 26, 2013, 03:26:09 AM »
If things are starting to get contentious, I'd talk to a lawyer, or if you're a member of PPA or something similar see if there's a staff legal team for advice. And above all, this is why you get things in writing, even if it's a simple email saying "Here's what we agreed over the phone, please confirm that this is correct."

643
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: what to do
« on: May 25, 2013, 05:34:54 PM »
THE 6D IS QUITE TEMPTING but so expensive

The 6D is quite good for what it is, although it lacks some things a more general high end camera like the 5d3 does well (specifically the AF system and a few edge features). What lenses do you have now? If you have a couple of good lenses, you may gain more by the 6D which will be a big jump over the 500D's sensor in many situations. If you don't have any good lenses, go for a good lens or two, and a good tripod if you don't have one. Don't forget to get a shutter release cable and learn how to use it and mirror lockup for your landscapes.


55 -250mm

18-55mm
no tripod

Ok, so none of your current lenses will work on the 6D, since those are EF-S lenses. If you go for the 6D kit with 24-105L it's a pretty nice all-around lens, but even stopped down it won't excel at landscapes. Great general purpose lens though.

If you're serious about landscapes, I'd first get a good quality tripod. Skip the $200-300 range, and go a bit higher. I don't have the link handy, but basically it's a cost comparison showing someone starting off with a really cheap tripod, decide they need a better one and get a mid-range, then decide they need a better one and get a higher end tripod. In the end, they would have saved money if they had gone right for the higher end tripod. Not that I'm saying you should spend $600 on the lens, and another $400 on the head, but if you can budget $600-700 for legs + nice head, you'll be a lot happier for a long time.

Next, I'd go for another lens. Depends on you're budget and desire, but for landscape I'd go more for the 17-40L or 24mm Samyang/Rokinon lens. That one is manual focus, manual aperture, and you won't have any lens EXIF info, but it is pretty good optically, especially when stopped down to f/4 or a bit further. However, the Canon 17-40L is more flexible, although it starts at f/4 it does improve stopped down and has AF and full lens EXIF info. Both of those are around $600-700 I believe. For you, I'd recommend the Canon 17-40L for now, and it should suit you're needs pretty good.

So, for less than the cost of a 6D body only, you can get a very good tripod and a good quality lens that will be quite good for your current needs, and give you some room to grow and experiment and learn. I also recommend going online and searching and reading about landscape photography. There is a lot of material out there on the internet. I likely will take some time to learn the techniques, and then figure your style, but keep at it and don't give up.


what tripod do you head do you recommend?

would the 6d and the 17-40 give me substantially better shots

I'd say start with a tripod and 17-40L, and save you're money for a year or two and see where you're at. Maybe get another lens in the middle sometime. Right now it sounds like you don't have a lot of experience shooting, but really want to get more into it. Eventually you will likely want to upgrade to a full-frame sensor, but not necessary at the moment. Once you've shot with the 17-40 for a while, learned more about what and how you like to shoot but still want the 6D, I'd rent it for a week or so and shoot some side-by-side if you can with your current body and see if you really think it's a huge leap in image quality.

Substantially better shots is quite subjective, as most photos are more limited by the composition (so you), and the lighting which you may or may not be able to influence or control. Equipment does play a role, but in most cases composition and lighting make the photo, rather than the specific lens and/or body. You may certainly reach a point or want to shoot something where you will need better equipment, or some specialized equipment (such as a Tilt-Shift lens for architectural photography).

As for tripods, I'm not an expert on them so I'll defer, but Gitzo and Really Right Stuff are both top quality brands, and Benro has a pretty good reputation despite it being Chinese knockoffs. Remember that tripods and heads have limits as to their maximum designed weight they can hold. I'd recommend overspeccing by quite a bit, rather than getting just what you think you'll need. That's what I did and I'm quite grateful I did as I now have a 8+ pound medium format film camera, which if I specced to the equipment I have otherwise what I got wouldn't have been able to hand it. I'd say spec to 12+ pounds which will let you move up to a larger body, and heavier glass while still having a margin and likely not having a tripod that weighs a ton, especially if you get a carbon fiber one.

644
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: what to do
« on: May 25, 2013, 04:56:58 PM »
THE 6D IS QUITE TEMPTING but so expensive

The 6D is quite good for what it is, although it lacks some things a more general high end camera like the 5d3 does well (specifically the AF system and a few edge features). What lenses do you have now? If you have a couple of good lenses, you may gain more by the 6D which will be a big jump over the 500D's sensor in many situations. If you don't have any good lenses, go for a good lens or two, and a good tripod if you don't have one. Don't forget to get a shutter release cable and learn how to use it and mirror lockup for your landscapes.


55 -250mm

18-55mm
no tripod

Ok, so none of your current lenses will work on the 6D, since those are EF-S lenses. If you go for the 6D kit with 24-105L it's a pretty nice all-around lens, but even stopped down it won't excel at landscapes. Great general purpose lens though.

If you're serious about landscapes, I'd first get a good quality tripod. Skip the $200-300 range, and go a bit higher. I don't have the link handy, but basically it's a cost comparison showing someone starting off with a really cheap tripod, decide they need a better one and get a mid-range, then decide they need a better one and get a higher end tripod. In the end, they would have saved money if they had gone right for the higher end tripod. Not that I'm saying you should spend $600 on the lens, and another $400 on the head, but if you can budget $600-700 for legs + nice head, you'll be a lot happier for a long time.

Next, I'd go for another lens. Depends on you're budget and desire, but for landscape I'd go more for the 17-40L or 24mm Samyang/Rokinon lens. That one is manual focus, manual aperture, and you won't have any lens EXIF info, but it is pretty good optically, especially when stopped down to f/4 or a bit further. However, the Canon 17-40L is more flexible, although it starts at f/4 it does improve stopped down and has AF and full lens EXIF info. Both of those are around $600-700 I believe. For you, I'd recommend the Canon 17-40L for now, and it should suit you're needs pretty good.

So, for less than the cost of a 6D body only, you can get a very good tripod and a good quality lens that will be quite good for your current needs, and give you some room to grow and experiment and learn. I also recommend going online and searching and reading about landscape photography. There is a lot of material out there on the internet. I likely will take some time to learn the techniques, and then figure your style, but keep at it and don't give up.

645
Perkeo I, 6x6cm 120 roll folder, Tri-X 400, scanned on Epson v600 with VueScan. Cost me $70 with shipping on ebay, fully working.

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