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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Gig photography tips.
« on: May 31, 2012, 10:29:26 PM »I stand corrected. Apparently I am an idiot for liking my 24-70. My editor is not going to like that.
LOL
BTW, was that shot above 5d2 or 5d3?
June 19, 2013, 06:22:42 AM
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LOL
BTW, was that shot above 5d2 or 5d3?
857
Lighting / Re: Which Phottix RF trigger?
« on: May 31, 2012, 02:28:32 PM »oh you learn something new every day I read that as worked with TTL
i see what the passthrough is now
good catch pointing that out
Yea, that's why it's relatively cheap. But still quite good for what it does, especially the groupings. That's actually pretty darn cool. Makes it easier to enable/disable which light(s) you want to use or not use.
858
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Gig photography tips.
« on: May 31, 2012, 02:25:45 PM »
Yea, if your subjects aren't thrashing around too much you can get away with a somewhat slower shutter speed, especially on a shorter lens like the 50mm. However, it looks like he was moving around fast, so the 1/160 was probably needed.
Your idea of pre-focusing is good, and AI Servo can sometimes work with the center point on the 5d2, but it's hard sometimes to keep the focus point right where you want. This is where I having a somewhat smaller aperture can help to provide a deeper DoF so you'll be more likely to get the important thing in focus.
@eeek:
Where those on the 5d2? ISO 5000, holy crap that looks clean. How'd you get it that clean? I can believe that if it was on the 5d3, I love how good the 5d3 is with ISO's up to 6400, or even 8000.
Your idea of pre-focusing is good, and AI Servo can sometimes work with the center point on the 5d2, but it's hard sometimes to keep the focus point right where you want. This is where I having a somewhat smaller aperture can help to provide a deeper DoF so you'll be more likely to get the important thing in focus.
@eeek:
Where those on the 5d2? ISO 5000, holy crap that looks clean. How'd you get it that clean? I can believe that if it was on the 5d3, I love how good the 5d3 is with ISO's up to 6400, or even 8000.
859
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Gig photography tips.
« on: May 30, 2012, 09:05:56 PM »Thanks for the tips Drizzt321. Maybe i am over worrying about noise. Im thinking of getting the 24mm or 35mm and then the 135mm. I might get the samyang 85mm for portraits and video, or save for the sigma 85 1.4.
It was a lot of fun, and I definately want to do it as often as possible (ive been asked back so i guess thats good). I cant imagine many photography situations harder in terms of lighting! And then protecting myself from crowd surfing and beer being thrown haha.
This is one of the examples. I dont have a work flow yet, so all ive done here is import it too dpp then export as a jpeg with quality setting 5 (so it was small enough to attach here). Is that thes best way to do this? I added tungsten lighting setting aswell actually. Let me know your thoughts on noise. I just noticed on one or two others that althought the AF point said it was on the eye, if looks like the microphone cable was actually the main thing in focus! So the face wasnt, sharp.
That image doesn't look really all that noisy, even when I download and zoom in. Some, yes, but I think a lot of it looks like it's just dust and stuff floating in the air that the bright white lights highlight.
In terms of the focus, I think you're correct. Do you remember if you pre-focused and then waited for him? Or did you get the focus & then take the shot immediately? I see you're actually at 1/160 shutter, which is really pretty good, especially for that light where he looks almost a bit overexposed, at least on his back and decent exposure on his face. For something similar to this maybe go down to 1/100 or 1/80 and increase the DoF by going to f/2.8-f/3.5 or so which will help you if he moves a bit between when you get focus and when the shot is taken.
860
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Gig photography tips.
« on: May 30, 2012, 01:20:43 PM »
Hehe, welcome to the world of band photography. It's a real challenge, but I do love it. Following up on what most of the others have said, you just need to wait for the right moment. Most music & lighting will come back around a 2nd or 3rd time, sometimes more, so if you miss something the first time, get the right focus and composition and wait for it to come back around.
In terms of the noise, most people are fine with viewing these types of photos with noise, and if you are exporting for web size images a lot of it will go away. One thing you can also do is convert to B&W. I've actually done that, then added some grain to get something I like the look of more.
One thing to remember about fast glass (f/1.8 and faster) is that getting the focus right is more and more important because the DoF get's much shallower. On the 5d2 you should really just be using the center AF point, and the recompose. You need to be careful because you'll be physically changing the angle of the plane of focus, so you might need to either manually touch up the focus, or physically move somewhat.
All in all, it's a ton of fun, and a real challenge you might enjoy. Eventually you'll need some longer glass, the 135mm is great, and the 70-200 f/2.8 IS USM is kind of a standard concert lens, although it's freaking expensive. For now, the suggestions on the 35L or the 85 f/1.8 or Sigma 85 f/1.4 will probably be better for you as the latter 2 are much less expensive, but let you be a bit further back from the stage. If you like being right up on the stage, the 35L is a great option on FF.
In terms of the noise, most people are fine with viewing these types of photos with noise, and if you are exporting for web size images a lot of it will go away. One thing you can also do is convert to B&W. I've actually done that, then added some grain to get something I like the look of more.
One thing to remember about fast glass (f/1.8 and faster) is that getting the focus right is more and more important because the DoF get's much shallower. On the 5d2 you should really just be using the center AF point, and the recompose. You need to be careful because you'll be physically changing the angle of the plane of focus, so you might need to either manually touch up the focus, or physically move somewhat.
All in all, it's a ton of fun, and a real challenge you might enjoy. Eventually you'll need some longer glass, the 135mm is great, and the 70-200 f/2.8 IS USM is kind of a standard concert lens, although it's freaking expensive. For now, the suggestions on the 35L or the 85 f/1.8 or Sigma 85 f/1.4 will probably be better for you as the latter 2 are much less expensive, but let you be a bit further back from the stage. If you like being right up on the stage, the 35L is a great option on FF.
861
Lenses / Re: Canon 42mm f/2.8 TS-E, anyone heard of this?
« on: May 25, 2012, 06:40:21 PM »I just looked out my window, and there's this wild Canada goose out there...should we all go chase it?
I'll grab the shotgun, let's go!
862
Lighting / Re: Which Phottix RF trigger?
« on: May 25, 2012, 11:17:51 AM »
Yea, I'm going to get a bunch of eneloop batteries, just haven't yet. Forgot to order some when I got the triggers, so it was a nice touch that they can with batteries, even if I'm not going to use them for all that long with the ones it came with.
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Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Konova mortarized unit
« on: May 24, 2012, 06:23:57 PM »
I read the subject and I couldn't help but thinking of the Canon EF-1200mm at 70-degrees dropping the 50mm f/1.8's down the front and having them fly out as mortar bombs.
Sorry, got nothing for you on the slider, never use them at all.
Sorry, got nothing for you on the slider, never use them at all.
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mark III & 1D X Black Focus Point in AI Servo Information
« on: May 24, 2012, 03:56:41 PM »
The solution is probably Canon running every single possible focus point combination against all metering modes under a variety of lighting & subject conditions to get information on how the metering is affected when it's black vs red. And then run a whole bunch of calculations, and figure out the best adjustments/algorithms to add into a later firmware. That's my guess, and it'd be extremely time consuming.
I for one would like this to be an option, and I'm hoping they do come up with the necessary fixes to release another firmware to enable this.
I for one would like this to be an option, and I'm hoping they do come up with the necessary fixes to release another firmware to enable this.
865
Lighting / Re: Which Phottix RF trigger?
« on: May 23, 2012, 04:40:19 PM »
So, just got my Strato II Multi today, had a few minutes to play with them at lunch. So far so good. A really nice touch is the inclusion of all the AAA batteries necessary to run them. Energizer ones too, not no-name crap ones. When I have a chance to play with them in other uses, I'll post some more thoughts.
866
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: IPB vs ALL-I settings
« on: May 23, 2012, 02:06:40 PM »I think the basic deal is that you get more latitude in post, but only if you are editing frame by frame. If you are applying edits to the whole take, then IPB is just as good for editing. Furthermore, IPB has more detail in each frame because it isn't reliant on each frame providing all the information for the entire frame. Many people have reported block artifacts with ALL-I, because it requires significant compression in each frame.
Think about it, truly uncompressed 1080, ALL-I should be (2M(resolution)*3bytes(24bit color)*(24fps)=144 MB/s=1.1Gb/s
The 5dmkiii max data rate is 1/10th of that, so it requires massive compression in each frame. IPB circumvents this issue somewhat by putting more detail in a key frame.
144 MB/s=1.1Gb/s mhhh.... nope
Actually, I believe that is correct, provided you only go to 1 decimal places. Google Calculator results.
867
Lighting / Re: How about this strobist set up?
« on: May 23, 2012, 12:30:19 PM »I'm not sure you can stack ETTL cables, or chain them like you would need for this. It'd be an interesting experiment though, although it'd cost you a bit of money for the ETTL cables you'd cut apart and solder. Anyone want to sponsor me? I'd need a couple of Canon speedlites, as I only have 1 right now.Classic shot by the OP. You wouldn't be able to stack ETTL cables, they are an SPI like interface where you have a a master / slave type arrangement. When the master (the camera) sends the commands to the slaves (flashes) they would all try to respond at the same time. When you want to stack that kind of interface you normally need a seperate chip select type line to force the slaves into a high impedance which Canon flashes don't allow for from my reading.
Only way I think would be a microcontroller that sat between all the flashes and the camera and actually interpreted and tried to respond intelligently to the requests, like maybe firing a pre-flash from all flashes for metering but then only returned metering information back from the central one so the camera thought it was dealing with a single unit.
Good to know, and kinda what I thought. Now, if those were all the new 600EX (or using another RF ETTL system), he could easily have them all working over RF. Although...I wonder if there might be problems because they're so freaking close between the master/slaves?
868
Lighting / Re: How about this strobist set up?
« on: May 22, 2012, 10:07:44 PM »Triggering them is the problem. I was thinking of using a 7D to trigger them, but I haven't looked into how to connect this 5D Mark III to a 7D so that they both fire at the same time.
You could always get a bunch of PC sync cables, and cut off the ends and solder them all together onto 1 PC cable to the camera.
would this work?
would you retain ettl or just be stuck with manual assuming it worked?no need to cut them you can just get a 3.5mm multi port splitter and plug into a radio trigger
PC Sync doesn't do TTL anything, no matter what, so you won't get that. If you wanted ETTL on all of them...hmm...I suppose you'd need PW/Odin or something similar. I'm not sure you can stack ETTL cables, or chain them like you would need for this. It'd be an interesting experiment though, although it'd cost you a bit of money for the ETTL cables you'd cut apart and solder. Anyone want to sponsor me? I'd need a couple of Canon speedlites, as I only have 1 right now.
869
Lighting / Re: How about this strobist set up?
« on: May 22, 2012, 01:59:45 AM »Triggering them is the problem. I was thinking of using a 7D to trigger them, but I haven't looked into how to connect this 5D Mark III to a 7D so that they both fire at the same time.
You could always get a bunch of PC sync cables, and cut off the ends and solder them all together onto 1 PC cable to the camera.
870
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 Pancake Coming [CR3]
« on: May 22, 2012, 01:55:42 AM »This is dumb. F/2 or faster for primes otherwise, WHATs THE POINT?! Just use good zooms.
Because it makes it really cheap. Although, they did manage to make the 50mm an f/1.8. But, I'm not sure it's considered a pancake.