Are you looking for an incident reading or reflected reading? Incident is you put the meter between the subject and the light source(s), reflected is you point the meter are your subject. So your normal camera with a light meter built in is generally going to be reading the reflected light, however it's also calibrated more specifically for that sensor/electronics. If you want an incident reading, you probably should get a dedicated light meter.
Neither, I WANT a digital MF camera. But that's not going to happen. But if the image on my lcd of my digital camera can be reproduced with the MF film camera with the same settings, I see no need for a light meter, which can only tell you what IT thinks is correct. ( I understand some differences will be there, depth of field, FOV, etc.. )
I think the biggest thing would be the ISO, since actual effective digital ISO levels actually vary a bit from the stated ISO levels often. So the shutter/aperture listed will likely be in the ballpark, but not necessarily exactly what your MF camera would need to be set to. If it's not too expensive, you can try doing a series of +/-Ev on your DSLR and compare against the actual exposure for that subject on your MF film. Plus you have the different metering modes. Spot, center-weighted average, partial, evaluative. So, you may need to experiment some to find the one you like best, or just simply use spot to get the most specific metering mode on a very specific part of the image.
So, my guess it'd take a bit of experimentation to get exactly what you want, but it certainly can be done. Just make sure you record everything until you figure out the exposure correction factory (e.g. if your DSLR shows f/5.6 @1/500 ISO 400, by experience you've found you need either 1/1000, or f/5.0 to get a correct exposure on your MF film with film of ISO 400).