« on: Today at 08:14:17 AM »
Magiclangern provides a button to "expose to the right". Adjust exposure in postprocessing to fit your needs. Problem solved, case closed.
And how, exactly, do you do that? Because if you are using the 'Blacks', 'Shadows', 'Exposure', 'Highlights', or 'Whites' sliders you are not getting the tonality of the scene.
If you use tone curves on each colour channel seperately, if you are using the camera calibration panel etc then yu might be getting close.
You seem to be missing the point that 'simple' adjustments to an overexposed file do not get you back to the same tonality as a 'correctly' exposed file.
The RAW data is linear. If you expose to the right, you just collect more photons. In software you have to reduce (or increase) the exposure by the same amount that you adjusted while taking the picture. Then you have the same raw data without blown highlights (when decreasing exposure taking the picture) or with less noise (when increasing exposure when taking the picture).
You do not need to change the channels separately. You do not need to change the tonality curve.
The required correction is only one single value. E. g. +2EV while taking the picture and then -2EV to reverse that effect in software.
That is the theory and software which does that is fine but there are many things that can go wrong. One big difference is the tonality curve of the camera (software) which is applied to convert linear RAW data to JPEG values. You cannot work with those JPEGs, you need linear RAW. But even then the RAW is preprocessed by software and that might do some things like change the color of dark/bright parts. E.g. reduce the color of dark parts to avoid color noise.
You can simply test your software. Switch to manual mode and take a photo of some dark objects before a dominant white wall and expose like the camera would do (make the white wall grey). Then expose to the right and remember how many EV you increased the exposure. E.g. 1/100s camera exposure vs 1/25s ETTR exposure = +2EV. Then use the RAW files and convert them with your software and apply -2EV exposure to the second picture. Now they should have EXACTLY the same color properties but the ETTR picture should have less noise. If not, your software is not up to that specific task.
Using the camera JPEGs here will lead to totally wrong colors, banding etc. due to all the "optimizations" applied to the RAW data in order to get good looking JPEGs.
At the end of the day the goal is to take a picture and to expose for that specific subject and the sensor noise may actually be low enough that you are satisfied with the exposure suggested by the spot metering of the camera. In that case you can directly use the camera JPEGs and be fine. Heavy postprocessing is only for low volume activities or people with too much time.
I work 24/7 but still process my pictures to my satisfaction. Guess I have enough time for what I WANT in life.