December 21, 2014, 05:39:07 PM

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Topics - Quasimodo

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1
Lighting / Pocket Wizard PlusX and 600ex-rt
« on: November 24, 2014, 04:35:10 AM »
If anyone could please advice me on this.

I set up a shoot in my home studio with a Mamiya RZ67 Pro ii, PW PlusX and 600's. (I hoped for a long time that I would be able to use my st-e3, but alas...). I was adviced to buy the PW PlusX and they worked well.

My set up was the following: Three 600ex-rt's in a 70x70cm softbox, and a separate 600 (fill light) in a small octashaped softbox. The speedlights were in manual slave, hooked to the PW PlusX. All worked well as far as shooting, and manually decreasing the power. I triggered and read the lights with the Sekonic 758Cine with the PW chip. The one thing that did not work, and I am seeking advice about here is the sleep modus kicking in on the speedlights. Posing the models, finding the correct focus is a bit cumberstone on the Mamiya, so it took time, so the speedlights stopped working/responding, and I had to walk over and push the fire button to wake them up, then step up, check focus and shoot. Is it a way I can prevent them from going in this sleep function? I do not care if that eats away on the batteries, but it would be really nice to be able to focus on the shooting of pictures, rather than running back and forth to be sure that the flashes are ready to shoot..

Gerhard.

2
EOS Bodies - For Stills / ST-E3 and Canon A-1
« on: October 24, 2014, 05:01:15 AM »
I am just about to buy what seems to be a good copy (buying it from a person who bought it new) of the Canon A-1. This because I would like to explore film.

I have a question: Is it possible for me to run the st-e3 with it (given the cameras limitation of 1/60 sync speed) and my 600s? I will buy it regardless, but I wonder if I can use my existing gear, or if I would have to buy a dedicated flash for it..

Thanks in advance,

Gerhard

3
EOS Bodies - For Stills / ISO 160 vs. 100
« on: October 23, 2014, 10:17:13 AM »
I think it was in the Jeff Cable review (reviews are pouring out now) of the 7DII where he made claims that ISO 160 on Canon cameras are better than ISO 100. I find this strange. Guided by earlier discussions on this forum I was led to believe that ISO 100 is the lowest (most clean) natural setting for Canon cameras, and shooting at the optional ISO 50 would clipping the highlights and affect the DR.

However, I am a simple guy, and if I am told by credible sources that 160 is the magic number for shots where you want a maximum clean image (where conditions allow you), that is then what I will shoot at :)

Any thoughts/insights?

4
EOS Bodies - For Stills / What card(s) will you use for the 7DII?
« on: October 21, 2014, 04:24:00 AM »
I will only use the camera for stills.

Will you both have a CF and a SD card, and if so which are you planning to use. I have several CF cards for my 1Dx, but I would like dedicated cards for the new 7DII.

G.

5
Lighting / Is this dangerous when using the 600ex rt´s?
« on: October 19, 2014, 04:42:27 PM »
I have a couple of questions:

1) When using three 600 and a st-e3 for a shoot a week ago, I happened to bump into on of the two buttons down to the right (left when viewed from front) on the 1Dx, and it gave me a strobistic preview light. Brilliant to have this feature I thought, until a friend of mine mentioned that this can kill the strobe if used ´too much´. As I do not want to kill my speedlites; is this dangerous?

2) Is there any drawback to have them always on HSS? I seem to have read (or seen a video) that if shooting speed is below 1/250 it works just like normal, and that the HSS (and its subsequent limiting on power) only kicks in when speed goes beyond this. Are there any drawbacks or dangers to have this as a default setting?

Thanks,

Gerhard.

6
Lighting / Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 26, 2014, 06:23:23 PM »
Yeah, a question with no definite answer, but yet....

I have now sold two of my studio strobes (elinchrom), and am about to sell the other two I have. What I have left is my three 600ex rt and a st-e3. I am thinking about aquiring another three speedlites, to allow me the flexibility of having enough light for most situations that I will encounter as an amateur (with the occasional paid photogig). My main use will be a studio setup, but I would also like the opportunity to do HSS.

Any thoughts?

7
Lenses / Question for Reikan Focal Pro users
« on: July 01, 2014, 05:22:49 AM »
I have a couple of questions regarding the Reikan Focal Pro.

When callibrating on my 1Dx, is it possible to have two values programmed for a non-zoom lens? When I have callibrated my 135L with the focus limiter on 1.6 meters it gives me a AFMA of +5, but when I callibrate it on the .9 meter, it gives me a value of +3. Can I have both, and will the camera recognize which setting I have on the lens?

Second, and related. How do you put in two values for a zoom lens, say the 70-200 @70 and @200?

In advance, thanks.

8
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Mea Culpa! - The World Cup in Brazil
« on: June 13, 2014, 02:57:04 AM »
I feel this morning that it is time for confessions....!

Despite the time I use in this forum reading and commenting on the different lenses and bodies, I was not able to pay attention to the bodies and lenses used by the photographers on the sideline during the match between Brasil and Croatia.. ;( The game was too exciting, so I cannot report on prototype lenses or potential 7DII..

Again, I am sorry, and I feel that I have not lived up to the responsibility as a CR member..

9
I am starting this thread where I can pose my ignorant questions regarding the 1Dx, and where some of you might take pity on me and help :)

I have a question for experienced 1Dx owner. I am looking in the manual on p. 350 and can´t find the answer I am looking for. I want to program one of the buttons to be able to switch between One Shot and Ai Servo. I have managed to do so, but it only works when holding the designated button down, which in my opinion is impractical. Is there a way to make it stick, so that it stays in the mode I have choosed untill I deliberately switch it back?

Thanks

10
Canon General / Spot to take pictures of skyscrapers in NY in the dark
« on: February 16, 2014, 05:29:42 PM »
On Valentineday I gave my wife and I a short four-night trip to NY in April (we never had a honeymoon trip), and I want to take a picture of the magnificent skyscrapers of New York in the dark. Preferably a high vantage point so I can get as much of the city as possible.

I will be shooting full frame, and the lenses I am contemplating to bring are: 16-35II, Sigma 35 Art, and 135L.

BTW: Finally I will have the chance to visit B&H :) Something I have wanted to do for years.

Cheers,

G.

PS. Are there any regulations I need to be aware of when it comes to taking pictures in NY?

11
Lenses / Getty Images back-up gear for the Sochi olympics
« on: February 07, 2014, 06:36:55 PM »
Only one non-L, and a bit surprised that they have two 200/1.8 (not that they are not great!)

http://petapixel.com/2014/02/06/getty-images-sports-photographer-robert-cianflone-reporting-sochi/

13
While I did, and still hate the idea of Creative Cloud and what I perceive to be a monopolistic stronghold on a market, I do like the perspective warp update.

I have the Photoshop CS 6. It is like using the Liquify tool and being able to just work on certain parts of the picture, unlike the Free Transform that affects the whole image when trying to do the same.

I thnk that Photoshop in an effort to be true to their former and existing customers should include this as an update for current Photoshop users :)

14
Lenses / Tilt shift for dummies
« on: January 13, 2014, 02:52:47 AM »
Hi.

I wondered if anyone of you had any good tips for how to use tilt shift in all its glory? It should be really introductory (fine if it goes much more advanced to, as long as the lower buildingblocks are present). I tried to go to wikipedia to learn about the Scheimpflug principle, but that explanation would make non-ingenieurs cry blood; and I am not an ingenieur :)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle

A week ago I saw a great two hour presentation by the portrait photographer Gregory Heissler, featured on Petapixel. He uses quite a bit of tilt shift in his portraits, and there was this one particularly cool shot that was for the front page of Time Magazine (imho) of Rudy Guiliani on the top of a high building, where he selected focus to get at sharp focus on the Mayor and the Empire state building.

I find these environmental portrait intriguing, and would love to learn how I can use my tilt shift for this kind of photos. Right now my lens is collecting dust, but the reason that I bought it was because it has so many uses. However the learning curve is quite steep, so if anyone can point me in the right direction of a great book, it would be much appreciated.

15
Software & Accessories / Long exposure photography
« on: November 25, 2013, 01:52:13 PM »
I am just getting ready to start my journey into long exposure photography.

Having just dabbled in long exposures with some screw on filters (NDs, and some vari-NDs), I am now taking the leap with the Lee system. From my wife I am getting the Lee starter kit (with a .6 hard grad ND, and a .6 ND, the filter holder) plus a couple of rings (77 wide, and 82 wide), and from my two kids I am getting the Big Stopper; all bought by me :)

I have some questions for those of you who have experience and time to answer it.

1. Is the Cokin Z-system (filter rings and filters) compatible with the Lee 100mm system? (same thickness of glass?)
2. How do you calculate the exposure time? I have looked at several videos and posts concering this. They mention reading the exposure at a certain F-stop, then adding time based on your ND stops. Some further argues that ISO, and exposure compensation can be used to extend the time.  All this seem correct, but incomplete.. Given that you shoot on the lowest ISO possible, then use EC (to say -3), F 22. Would you not be able to reduce it even more by switching to a lens that have F32 (like the 70-200 II), then add a 2xIII TC, thus getting a F 64, hence buying more time (here diffraction might play a devestating role?).

Not sure if my questions are coherent, or that I might have misunderstood..

Any input would be much appreciated, and if you even want to illustrate it by adding a picture that would be great.

In advance, thank you,

G.

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