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Topics - Quasimodo

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Canon General / Spot to take pictures of skyscrapers in NY in the dark
« on: February 16, 2014, 05:29:42 PM »
On Valentineday I gave my wife and I a short four-night trip to NY in April (we never had a honeymoon trip), and I want to take a picture of the magnificent skyscrapers of New York in the dark. Preferably a high vantage point so I can get as much of the city as possible.

I will be shooting full frame, and the lenses I am contemplating to bring are: 16-35II, Sigma 35 Art, and 135L.

BTW: Finally I will have the chance to visit B&H :) Something I have wanted to do for years.



PS. Are there any regulations I need to be aware of when it comes to taking pictures in NY?

Lenses / Getty Images back-up gear for the Sochi olympics
« on: February 07, 2014, 06:36:55 PM »
Only one non-L, and a bit surprised that they have two 200/1.8 (not that they are not great!)


While I did, and still hate the idea of Creative Cloud and what I perceive to be a monopolistic stronghold on a market, I do like the perspective warp update.

I have the Photoshop CS 6. It is like using the Liquify tool and being able to just work on certain parts of the picture, unlike the Free Transform that affects the whole image when trying to do the same.

I thnk that Photoshop in an effort to be true to their former and existing customers should include this as an update for current Photoshop users :)

Lenses / Tilt shift for dummies
« on: January 13, 2014, 02:52:47 AM »

I wondered if anyone of you had any good tips for how to use tilt shift in all its glory? It should be really introductory (fine if it goes much more advanced to, as long as the lower buildingblocks are present). I tried to go to wikipedia to learn about the Scheimpflug principle, but that explanation would make non-ingenieurs cry blood; and I am not an ingenieur :)


A week ago I saw a great two hour presentation by the portrait photographer Gregory Heissler, featured on Petapixel. He uses quite a bit of tilt shift in his portraits, and there was this one particularly cool shot that was for the front page of Time Magazine (imho) of Rudy Guiliani on the top of a high building, where he selected focus to get at sharp focus on the Mayor and the Empire state building.

I find these environmental portrait intriguing, and would love to learn how I can use my tilt shift for this kind of photos. Right now my lens is collecting dust, but the reason that I bought it was because it has so many uses. However the learning curve is quite steep, so if anyone can point me in the right direction of a great book, it would be much appreciated.

Software & Accessories / Long exposure photography
« on: November 25, 2013, 01:52:13 PM »
I am just getting ready to start my journey into long exposure photography.

Having just dabbled in long exposures with some screw on filters (NDs, and some vari-NDs), I am now taking the leap with the Lee system. From my wife I am getting the Lee starter kit (with a .6 hard grad ND, and a .6 ND, the filter holder) plus a couple of rings (77 wide, and 82 wide), and from my two kids I am getting the Big Stopper; all bought by me :)

I have some questions for those of you who have experience and time to answer it.

1. Is the Cokin Z-system (filter rings and filters) compatible with the Lee 100mm system? (same thickness of glass?)
2. How do you calculate the exposure time? I have looked at several videos and posts concering this. They mention reading the exposure at a certain F-stop, then adding time based on your ND stops. Some further argues that ISO, and exposure compensation can be used to extend the time.  All this seem correct, but incomplete.. Given that you shoot on the lowest ISO possible, then use EC (to say -3), F 22. Would you not be able to reduce it even more by switching to a lens that have F32 (like the 70-200 II), then add a 2xIII TC, thus getting a F 64, hence buying more time (here diffraction might play a devestating role?).

Not sure if my questions are coherent, or that I might have misunderstood..

Any input would be much appreciated, and if you even want to illustrate it by adding a picture that would be great.

In advance, thank you,


Lighting / Tronix Explorer XTSE - any experiences
« on: May 30, 2013, 02:28:17 AM »
After a bit of thought I ended up with a pair of Elinchrom BXri 500 (instead of the older Bowens 500 and 250ws that I posted about a couple of weeks ago). I am starting to inform myself about possibilities of on-location opportunities, thus battery packs. I have found one that looks promising - Tronix Explorer XTSE. It is relatively inexpensive and seems on spec like a good option for me (it says it can shoot the two strobes at full power for about 500-550 pictures if you do not use the modelling light, and that will be good enough for my use).

Has anyone used them and can you share your experiences?


Lenses / Pinhole Photography
« on: May 23, 2013, 03:27:36 AM »
I put this under lenses talk (proper, i don't know...?).

I would love for this thread to be a place where people can share their tips, experiences and questions about pinhole photography.

I have a few questions: I have seen several wesites that sell pre-drilled Canon caps for pinhole photography.

-Has anyone used them, and is it safe to use (I wonder if it is asking for trouble with dust on the sensor..)? If you have, what settings did you use to get the best results.

Feel free to post pictures you have taken with the pinhole technique.

Kind regards,


It comes with umbrellas and softboxes.. I have never used Bowens. They are in mint condition.

Do you think I should go for it?

Thank you for your time,


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Obama using Canon!
« on: March 01, 2013, 11:38:35 AM »
Not sure if you have seen this? :)

Which lens is this? A 35 1.4L?

Lenses / Photozone has released their review of the Sigma 35 1.4...
« on: February 18, 2013, 03:45:32 PM »

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Panic button - 1Dx
« on: February 10, 2013, 02:29:48 PM »
While I was taking a walk the other day I met a guy with two 1Dx, lenses and wireless transfer thing. I stopped and chatted with him and learned that he works for one of these news agencies. After talking for a while he mentions that he has programmed a panic button on his 1Dx, a button that is preset with aperture 8 (I think), ISO 6400, and shutter speed of 1/500?..  Not sure if I recall the settings correctly, but he told me that rather being stuck/or forgetting that he was in a meny, when he HAD to get the shot, he could just push this button and be certain to get the shot. I also believe that it was programmed for 12 frames per second.

A smart idea in my opinion.

Anyone heard about this kind of programming?

Lenses / Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:14:56 AM »
As a gift from some of my friends for my 40th birthday last year, I have gotten a stay at Dalen Vilmarkssenter in Norway (http://www.dalenvillmarkssenter.no/) where I am staying a night in February (we leave early in the morning with a snow mobile before daylight, settle in the hut with precut holes for lenses) hopefully get to take pictures of eagles, and then return after daylight.

I have gotten word that I will be able to borrow two bodies (1Dx and 1D iv, and a 400 F2.8L II) and I am thinking to bring my own 70-200 2.8L II, and a 2xIII TC.

Thus a question arises...

Are there other lenses you would bring to be safe? In addition, what aperture would you choose as a rule of thumb? I am thinking F 5.6 or 8 (to include the environment), and maybe 2.8 for portraits (where the background is not important)?


I have a set up in an improvised studio at work where I tried to blow out the background with a 600 and a 580, and using my other 580 as main light on the right side, and my 430 as the fill light. The main light and fill works great, but I have seen that the blow-out-the-background light works only so and so (they are both on full blast (+3). The problem is that they give only a semiblasted background, and the recharge time is slow, thus making me loose several shots. I have now borrowed a couple of Elinchrom sets at 200 watts per lamp, hence my intitial question at how does they translate from what I own myself?

Second, When testing the set up today I saw that it was way too bright/stronger than what I am used to with my canon speedlights.. but I think that I can reduce the power by changing aperture (I was shooting at ISO 165, Aperture 5,6, and 1/250 and this worked great for the sidelight and fill). I am thinking maybe in the vicinity of f11 now to get it equal?

Thank you,


Maybe my question is not coherent here, but my problem is that I have never shot with strobes before, and I am used to my canon speedlights and their power..

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