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Messages - Marsu42

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Canon General / Re: No Announcement Today
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:08:23 PM »
Who cares about the MP, but the low light quality, softening to reduce moire, and dynamic range are unacceptable in a new 2013 camera.

Maybe Canon got the message and the 70d will feature a 16mp sensor, but with massively improved dr and noise?

Personally, I wouldn't miss 2mp much because some mp give or take doesn't make that much of a difference, if it is to be felt it'd have to be 26mp+ from the current 18mp.

Lenses / Re: EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x Available Mid 2014?
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:04:58 PM »
But Sigma will probably have one out and available for $3500 before this hits the street.

... but the Sigma won't be white, so Canon is in the clear :->

Canon General / Re: Canon Number 1
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:21:10 AM »
Maybe Canon does know what they are doing.

Being number one keeps Canon number one due to customer marketing and sheer brute sales force. If more people would shoot Pentex or even Nikon, more people seeing this might wonder "Maybe that's a good camera, too"?

But as it is, around here (northeast Germany) Canon nearly seems to be a monopoly manufacturer, I was on a general club meeting (sports, animal protection, carnival, you name it) this weekend and 99% were using Canon, from Rebel to 1d - and one Nikon. Only people who are more into photography like wildlife photogs seem to even consider another brand.

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Upgrading...Canon 60D to...GH3
« on: April 23, 2013, 02:49:25 AM »
Hey guys..thanks..not sure what i was looking for was answered...

Maybe you should leave other people some time to see the thread and answer?

1. Keep 60D - buy fast Zeiss/Canon L primes

One other thing though - on the 60d af micro adjustment was removed (thanks, Canon!) so it's not an ideal camera body for fast primes or you have to make sure the specific copies don't need afma when buying them.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 60d or t5i, your help?
« on: April 21, 2013, 08:20:33 AM »
Will the T5i be better at higher ISOs than the 60d?

(Very, very nearly) no, (very, very nearly) same sensor since the 7d - though the newer models like 60d have less banding than the dual-digic 7d and better live-view af was added on the 650d.

Hi, I'm looking to buy my wife a new camera, I was all set on buying her a T5i.  I see now the 60d body only is selling for $661, my Question to you guys is, would you buy the 60d or the t5i?

It depends on your willingness to learn photography and invest time for it. The 60d runs the stellar firmware addon Magic Langern which will take some while to get to the 700d, and the 60d better viewfinder, top lcd and back wheel is extremely helpful. If you've got the chance, go to a photo store, take both cameras in your hands & change some settings - then you'll see why I'd never want to shoot with a Rebel-type camera if I can help it.

Lenses / Re: 16-35 f/2.8II vs 17-40 f/4
« on: April 21, 2013, 06:26:28 AM »
and used on a crop body it's not suffering the same drop off in resolution or vignetting at the corners as it does on a FF body at the wide end, wide open!

... only that correcting vignetting in post is really easy and with no problems unless the vignette was -3ev, but you cannot raise sharpness in post (yet :-)). As for the much discussed corner sharpness, well, I haven't got a ff body (again: yet :-p) but looking at my current shots it doesn't really matter.

Marsu, excellent point.  However, I did shoot the Tokina outdoors and into the sun today.  I saw no flare.  If there ever is some, surely it is minimal.

I didn't research it that much, but the sample shots I saw were mostly night-time like these, and you don't get this type of flare (circles around point lights) with the 17-40L (and afaik 16-35L):

The Tokina 16-28 is a far better buy than the Canon 16-35.  I just used one for the first time, today.  It's sharper, and costs just over half.

The Achilles' heel of the Tokina is flare control (or the lack of) - try shooting into the sun or point light sources at dusk/night and you'll get very "artistic" results - and with an uwa lens you're bound to have lights in the picture often.

The Canon's are much better, the 17-40 is said to be even best (probably due to the smaller lens diameter), I have never managed to get any flare at all. So for strictly indoor shots w/o effect or protection filter, the Tokina is excellent value, but imho that's about it.

EOS Bodies / Re: 21mp Sensor in the 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: April 19, 2013, 04:13:54 AM »
18 MP. 21 MP. 24 MP. Even 15 MP.  Frankly, I don't especially care

You just don't understand what matters to Canon :-p ... the 5d3 with 22mp is *better* than the 20mp 6d because it has 2mp more, and that gives Canon the freedom to put the 21mp 7d2 where they want it to be in (automated) tech comparisons: Between the pro 5d3 and the amateur 6d. Maybe the 70d will have 19mp?

It´s time that Canon reduces the price of the 5D Mark III around 2000 bucks and put a FF camera between the 5D Mark III and 1D X on the market that is worth the money you pay for it. I need a better IQ in the range ISO 50 to ISO 800.

Amen to that, esp. since you know the Canon gear. But of course it won't happen now that the 6d is out, or Canon gets really bold and prices the full frame 60d where it should belong - at say €1300.

Lenses / Re: 16-35 f/2.8II vs 17-40 f/4
« on: April 19, 2013, 04:02:21 AM »
This is great feedback on both of these lenses.  This is why I'm saving up for the 16-35.

As usual, "more expensive is better" applies here, though as far as I read it not for f8-f11 landscape shots. If you use uwa a lot, the 16-35 might be the better choice, but often it'll be used in a combo with a 24-70 lens - and then it gets more difficult: 16-35+cheap 24-70 or 17-40+expensive 24-70? That's why I've got the 17-40, and at f8 I'm happy so far, it's a good iq (even on crop) and sturdy internal zoom lens.

Yesterday I did a quick comparison (video mode/indoors) between a Canon 60D and a Nikon D7100.

Converning lv focusing and zooming: This is where Canon blows away Nikon simply due to having Magic Lantern with all it's features, the main reason I got a 60d and not a Nikon d7000. If you don't know ml and go for video you should really have a look at ml ( - it has more lv zooming options & even sharpens/constrasts the zoomed image for better manual focus).

As for awb, yes, I think it works good on Canon and I seldom see any magenta/green tint, can't tell about Nikon.

Are you just using it at the widest setting?  I hate the idea that a lens is "meant" for a certain purpose, but some certainly lean a direction.
Well just for perspective. My worry is that if I got close then my subjects will be distorted. I wonder if I should have went for more reach.

It's great you're posting here because you tend to get the most expensive gear (which is absolutely legit, btw) and then wonder what to do with it, makes me feel better with having cheap gear but learning how to use it :-)

I got a wide angle lens *because* I want shots to be distorted and getting a "close up" effect, otherwise I just do a step back - I  was shooting with a zoom starting at 45mm for the last years and seldom missed wider angles. Yes, uwa might be essential for some indoors people group shots but for architectural shots you can also do panorama stitching.

Please do see this, uwa is not for "taking it all in":

Lenses / Re: Speedy Manual Focusing?
« on: April 17, 2013, 01:25:29 PM »
I believe innately knowing this concept and how it applied to their cameras helped a lot especially when street shooting
As it happens, Magic Lantern calculates the hyperfocal distance for you :-) so this helped me a lot.

Lenses / Re: Speedy Manual Focusing?
« on: April 17, 2013, 12:26:14 PM »
How do focus screens work on newer body? Are they like the old split prism from the film-era? Any recommendation on which is the best for the 6D? Thanks a lot!

I'd also be interested in some experiences with these, there only seems to be one option left (no katzeyeoptics for ff, brightscreen seems to be out of business). As far as I understand it they screw up spot/partial metering, at least with fast lenses?

Lenses / Re: Speedy Manual Focusing?
« on: April 17, 2013, 10:20:51 AM »
If you are manual focusing a DSLR you have to use live view. The viewfinder is just not good enough.... it gets you close, but not spot on. You really need live view and then to zoom in on your target to properly check focus.

Or, much better, use Magic Lantern with focus peaking, esp. good with switching the display to b&w. You exactly see where the focus pane is w/o needing to zoom in (well, except if you're shooting f1.2 or macro with very thin dof). And with ml you also see what's under/overexposed (zebras) and even where the midrange tonal values are (false color).

Nowadays I mostly use live-view mf for macro shots, it's faster more precise than constantly af'ing and still missing, with the 60d's swivel screen it's a great tripod setup. I do miss the vf split screen from the ol' days though, it's a pity there's no option to switch this on/off quickly but it needs a vf screen replacement.

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