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Messages - emag

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91
Technical Support / Re: How to fix a physically broken sd card?
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:52:12 PM »
A new Class 10 UHS-1 32GB Sandisk SD card is about $30 on Amazon.  Buy a new one and move on.  At those prices, trying to fix a busted old one is simply stupid.  IMHO, of course.   8)
I consider it being frugal......although whenever my kids say that word it sounds like they're saying "cheap bastard".  ;D ;D    I was intending to just toss it, but the glue was sitting there, so......

92
Technical Support / Re: How to fix a physically broken sd card?
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:37:39 PM »
I have to correct myself......I didn't use superglue, I used plastic model cement  (Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, to be specific).

93
Technical Support / Re: How to fix a physically broken sd card?
« on: September 19, 2013, 04:32:19 PM »
I superglued one when that happened, no problems after several months

94
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: A valid reason to loose your gear...
« on: September 17, 2013, 03:06:14 PM »
Diving with tiger sharks.  No cage.  Camera gear to attract attention.  Uh huh.  That's what I want to do.  After that, I'll head off to Taliban country for some boudoir photography.  Yeah, that's the ticket!

95
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Nikon goes Medium Format?
« on: September 17, 2013, 10:38:54 AM »
Some comments from what is admittedly a niche market.....(astro)

The 60Da hasn't sold tremendously well because it was (IMHO) poorly implemented.  More expensive and not as good for astro as modifying a 60D.

Okay, I don't know enough about sensor technology, so if I'm completely out to lunch on this, a virtual slap is acceptable.  How about a MF body with more densely packed region for imaging in FF or APS-C crop mode and still having a lot of pixels on target?  Provides a selectable imaging area (crop mode) for when I want to work with a smaller file size rather than cropping a large image.  In MF mode, mayhaps those pixels can be binned?

Peltier cooling for long exposures.

IR cut filter that is either easily removeable or can be swung out of the light path....like the mirror.
For that matter, something similar for the Bayer filter (okay, I figure that's nigh on to impossible to implement).

A modular design so that if the photographer needs all the bells and whistles sports/weddings/wildlife requires, s/he can install an accessory in battery grip fashion that provides the required processors.  Maybe the Peltier cooling could be a module.

I don't think such a camera is too much of a stretch, and the market might be larger than some people think.  I'd buy one....don't need two kidneys.

96
try to deactivate  silent mode in the live view menu. That is what is needed in the 7D.
 I think it hast something to do with electronic first curtain.
Turn off exposure simulation also?

97
Lighting / Re: Lighting large groups, help needed!
« on: September 13, 2013, 09:07:51 AM »
Good to see some folks stepping in to help the OP.....kinda what these forums should be about.  Some people were born professional, experienced photographers.....we mere mortals have to learn.  Have fun and let us know how it works out, Zv!

98
Technical Support / Re: Which one is accurate?
« on: September 07, 2013, 02:15:08 PM »
Accurate schmaccurate........2nd photo is horrid.  You know it and if you did not know why before posting you do now.

99
Lighting / Re: Thinking of buying a Light Meter
« on: September 06, 2013, 01:51:24 PM »
99% of hobby photographers, even very serious very capable hobby photographers have no real need for a light meter.

I'm in that 99% group and I have to agree.  I can chimp my exposure and flash settings.  My most used (and useful to me) accessory is a Color Checker Passport.  I actually have an old light meter but haven't used it in very many years.  I think the last time was when I still used film.

100
A long exposure noise reduction method for astrophotography is the use of a 'dark frame'.  In principal it's similar to LENR but the practice is different.  A number of images are captured with the camera lens/telescope cover in place (i.e. - dark frames), I typically take them when I'm finished with my imaging and am putting my equipment up.  The exposure length is the same as that used for the images ('light' frames).  The dark frames are averaged in post and a master dark frame created which is then subtracted from each light frame prior to stacking the lights.  Ideally, the darks are captured at the same temperature the lights are captured at.  I suppose it would be possible to create a library of master darks at various temperature ranges, but the sometimes (or usually?) random nature of the dark frame noise might preclude that.  In addition to the dark frames, a series of bias frames are also captured, similarly averaged and subtracted.  These are dark frames at short exposure taken to create a master bias frame that hopefully captures the readout noise which is also subracted from the light frames prior to stacking.  With the D60 years ago, Canon was first out the gate with a low noise sensor capable of astrophotography....the reason I and many others adopted Canon DSLRs for astro.

Reason I mention all this is that if you're contemplating a lot of long exposure work, you may find these techniques useful.  For exposures of a few seconds, LENR is probably more practical.  My astro work involves exposures of 90 seconds to 10 minutes, LENR is just not a good option at that point.

101
Software & Accessories / Re: B+W Filter - No Green Hologram
« on: August 21, 2013, 09:09:08 AM »
The name Schneider says it all, I wouldn't be concerned.  Enjoy your filter.

102
.......I use 12 high cri fluorescent tubes for my light table, which each put out 2660 lumens, and twice that would be better........

Holy illumination Batman!  I'm squinting just thinking about that... ;D 

103
Lenses / Re: What's wrong with cheap ND filters?
« on: August 15, 2013, 10:16:35 AM »
I bought this $40 77mm ND1000 filter through ebay ('bondscamera', Hong Kong), brand name on the filter is Camdiox

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350576100078

Also this $21 Cokin P size graduated and ND filter set with holder and adapters through ebay ('mambate', New Jersey)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281097436699

Both work well for me and my uses.....YMMV.  If you just want to get something decent that is actually available so you can play around with it then I would recommend both of these.  Purists may cringe but they are welcome to PM me so I can give them my mailing address for that elusive Lee Big Stopper and other top shelf items they want to send me. 

I was recently in my local BestBuy and found a 77mm CPL and 77mm ND3 that included a 72-77 adapter.  Reasonable price and they work on all of my larger lenses including the  300/4L and 400/5.6 and most happily the Tokina 11-16/2.8.

I would strongly recommend against a variable ND, there may be some that do not exhibit the cross effect at higher density levels but the vast majority do, particularly any of the lower priced ones.

104
Technical Support / Re: White balance, how to determine?
« on: August 14, 2013, 09:12:19 AM »
Mr. Bean -

I also have an (equivalent to) Expodisk and have used it extensively.  It is indeed quicker than the Color Checker Passport for setting a custom white balance.......BUT......the passport has so many more uses and is just as simple to carry.  I've really taken a shine to it since I began using it.  You can set up custom camera profiles in Lightroom for various lighting conditions (sunny, clouds, rain, twilight, deep shade, etc.), shoot Raw and select the correct profile in post.  Much less tweaking is needed with such a work flow.  Want to warm skin tones a tad?  Click on the appropriate warming white balance block on the image of the Color Checker.   IIRC, there have been posts on CR from colorblind photographers here on CR who use the Passport to ensure proper color.

105
Technical Support / Re: White balance, how to determine?
« on: August 13, 2013, 10:32:53 PM »
Color Checker Passport, set up profiles in LR

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