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Messages - dlleno

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Software & Accessories / Re: Neutral Density Filters
« on: July 07, 2014, 09:38:51 PM »
I ordered my little stopper from the 2filters website and all went well.

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 16-35 F4 is shipping today
« on: June 24, 2014, 01:16:59 PM »
I ordered mine form The Imaging World in NY yesterday, and got my lens today. (Canceled my amazon pre-order)
:D :D :D

Funny.  Amazon must be low on the totem pole, as I had to cancel my pre-order with them as well.  I got an "error" from UPS that delayed my shipment until next week but that was not B&Hs fault.

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS Hitting Retailers
« on: June 20, 2014, 06:09:04 PM »
As you probably see in other posts B&H is shipping now.   Mine is due next week

Lenses / Re: Any word on new 16-35 F4
« on: June 20, 2014, 06:07:56 PM »
Mine is coming from B&H with Shipment confirmation for 27th.  I see others are getting theirs on the 24th I guess I didn't play the shipping method game right.   Lol

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 16-35 F4 is shipping today
« on: June 20, 2014, 06:05:44 PM »
Mine is arriving 27th. Canceled my amazon order without issue.   

Canon EF Zoom Lenses / Re: Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
« on: June 11, 2014, 05:50:45 PM »
Just got one after initially rejecting it (as a kit) in favor of the 17-40 F4L.  While I find the 17-40 very good for landscape photography, I was surprised at the very good IQ from this versatile lens.  Now, I'm torn apart if I'll bring both lens or just stick to the 24-105 for our family's Krabi trip this May.  My wife warned me of bringing more than 2 lens.  I'm thinking of just bringing a 50mm and the 24-105mm.  If it were you, what would you bring?

late to the party... but if it were me, given the choices you describe, I would bring both f/4 zooms.    The 24-105 will stay on most of the time, but the 17-40 will give you FL overlap and you will have better performance than the widest portions of the 24-105.  If you have the time to change lenses, for example, to avoid flare and minimize distortion at 24mm, you will appreciate having the 17-40.  You will also  have the UWA range which might come in handy.  Wives who warn of more than two lenses are more likely to influence the time you have to get certain photos, which means you may have to take the shot, sometimes, with the lens you have on the camera.   

Sad, but my GAS has made me purchase so much equipment (cameras, headphones, computer stuff, etc.) I just broke down and purchased this:  ;D

I have a pair of these in my garage.  IgotGASbadDude is right -- they provide good storage, but no security whatsoever :D

Something else to consider.   Tenba 48 inch airline compatible case.   Between this and the lowepo Trekker I can store ship or carry everything  including a light stand,  umbrellas etc. 

Software & Accessories / Re: Use a CPL with an ND Grad setup?
« on: May 21, 2014, 03:00:08 PM »
with apologies for resurrecting this thread, it does seem better than further polluting the 16-35mm f/4 thread with additional LEE questions.  since the experts are already subscribed here. 

I just wanted to ask you ahsanford, and with my gratitude for asking the questions you have:  did you end up purchasing the massively thick and massively priced B&W 105mm wide angle CPL?

or the moderately thick and still-expensive flavor:

f/2.8 is not that thin DOF as you go to UWA. A 50 mm FL at 6 feet away f/2.8 gives DOF 0.78 ft (very thin, and difficult to manage), whereas a 24mm FL gives 3.4 feet, which is more than enough. At 15 feet away for a group, 24mm lens gives a whopping 36 feet of DOF. The razor thin concern doesn't apply at ultra wide.

An extreme example here: 24mm f/1.4 at 15 feet still has a DOF of 11 feet (but Canon's 24 1.4L is very soft in the corners at 1.4, different issue).

16mm f/2.8 at 6 feet away still has a very easy to manage DOF of 11 feet. Even as close as 3 feet, gives about 2 feet DOF.

So, f/2.8 really can help indoor photography for ultrawides without causing DOF problems.

yea.   so f/2.8 can help isolate the subject from the background as well.  in your example, the DOF extends from about 2 feet in front to 9 feet behind, which may be pushing it for subject isolation but still  doable (you would more likely be stepping back and zooming in to 21 mm for example, for better results --  But to continue the example:   at f/4 (still 16mm and subject distance of 6 feet)  you loose almost all hope of subject isolation from the background because everything 34 feet behind the subject  is in focus.     so in this particular example, the f/2.8 lens has a hope of capturing a venue feature like a candelabra or whatever, with some isolation from the background, but the f/4 lens has little hope.  I doubt very many people/group shots are taken at 16mm and 6 foot distance... but I'm not a wedding 'tog so I'm open to correction here :D 

I'm using 7D, pairing with 16-35 II... as my regular walk around lens  :D
wonder shall I go for the 16-35 IS? worth?

also I haven't got my wide for APS-C  :-[ , which should I go for?
I) New, 10-18 STM
II) Old, 10-22 USM

Thanks...  8)

Guess I have to ask why?  I feel like there are so many better options for a standard zoom lens on a APS-C.  Why not the 17-55?  Or something like a 24-70 or 24-105 if you want an EF lens.

If you're willing to spend that kind of cash on a lens then I wouldn't be lured in by the low price of the 10-18, unless it proves to be markedly sharper, which seems unlikely.  So unless you want STM for video I'd stick with the tried and true 10-22.

+1.  f/2.8 is going to be more important on the 7D, so for the required FOV the 17-55 f/2.8 IS is the better choice imho for a walkabout lens, than the 16-35 f/4 IS.   16-35 f/2.8 II is certainly doable -- its corner softness will be mitigated by the crop body, and it will serve as an upgrade path to FF, but it does not give you IS in the so-called "normal" FOV region (i.e. ~28-80 FF equivalent).  Note also that the 7D's AF system will benefit from f/2.8.   

But to help answer the question, you need to ask: in what situations does the 16-35 f/2.8 II fail for you?  what capabilities does it lack that would allow you to take better photos?  what are the situations where you have a low keeper rate?  If the answer is "low keeper rate due to camera shake" then you need to add IS.  If the answer is "low keeper rate due to motion blur" then for sure you don't want to give up f/2.8, while IS may not be important.  you can see here that the combination of IS and f/2.8 may or may not be important to you.

I would also recommend you review the meta data of your 16-35 f/2.8 II photos and  see what percentage of them use f/2.8.  Consider too, that the region between 35mm and 55mm may be important to you as well.

I sold both my 17-55 and 10-22 but they were important regulars in my crop body bag.  Only downside to the 17-55 is that it is flare-prone and needs a front filter.  FYI  I had a $250 repair experience gone way bad (on my 17-55 before it sold)  -- took Canon four attempts and four months to get it right, so make sure you test your copy, and beware of purchases from individuals. 

oh duh -- the std foundation does not offer independent rotation, which is why the outboard 105mm CPL is an attractive option.   As Neuro suggested,  and as my calculations confirmed, stacking holders for independent rotation does not sound good from a vignetting standpoint, so to me that's a dead end -- now I see the wisdom of the 105mm CPL. Stick with one foundation and use to ND media, with only one of them requiring rotation.  Use  the CPL when it is necessary. 

ok so I just just came up to speed where y'all have already been.

Sagittariansrock -- thanks for the pointer to WonderPana.   looks to be lens-specific'; I better do some more reading. 

that's some creative thinking, to be sure!  so my only worry here is that light does weird stuff when passing through curved media, so my first thought here is phys 201 where we learned that angle of incidence = angle of reflection.  Light transmission is going to be critical when  three external media surfaces are used, especially if two of the three have to be rotated and/or otherwise critically adjusted with respect to the other.   

I'll yield to the optical engineers to properly express the effects of curved media and of stopping the iris down.

Well I think we've successfully  torpedoed the thread.  meanwhile did you say you could shoot at 16mm with TWO lee filters in the holder, for example, an ND grad and a CPL?  at least one could, with such a setup, use HDR to deal with the amount of light in the scene;  you just wouldn't be able to blur the water. How often do landscapers need three media AND 16mm?


lol you're right about us punks just figuring this out.  Unless the lens mfg comes out with a proprietary mounting and filtering system using custom  gels OE from the likes of Lee I don't think and easy answer is coming soon.  BTW  I don't know enough about the lens geometries to make any generalizations but the benefit of stopping down has to be greater than zero.  meanwhile we could get some relief from a 150mm filter and hopefully a more compressed foundation to keep things close;   I suspect there aren't many 16mm photos with the benefit of all three:   ND grad, ND, and CPL. 

I guess one thing that gave me pause was the very expensive approach of a 105mm adapter plus a 105mm CPL without a prayer of using the UWA FLs .  that puts the most expensive piece of glass, and one that requires find adjustment,  the furthest away from the lens, making it the largest component.   the component that needs to be the furthest away would be the cheapest -- an 8" straight ND for example.   

I haven't tried any of this before, so forgive my ignorance:  but suppose one could keep the adjustable elements close to the lens, i.e. a 4"  nd Grad and a 4 "CPL, and then hand hold a large ND in front of that assembly, would that work?  how often would one need a three-element setup that included a 10 stop ND?

ok I'm tired of seeing arguments about how no one asked for a lens that several of us want and a few have already ordered.

I'm more interested in this topic:

You are 100% dead on.  You could just as easily have replaced my three bullet point idea with:

  • Do something unnecessary.
  • Do something unnecessary.
  • Lee solves the problem with epically large hardware.

The first two ideas I offered were just make the nasty magic wand / deus ex machina solution of 'a company solving it' less big than it might have to be.  For instance, I haven't done the trig, but the first two bullet points might keep filters down to 6" wide, but not doing those two things might require 8" filters.

- A

You are spot on.  I just ran  first order approximation,  using a 98 degree horizontal viewing angle and assuming that 77mm diameter threads occur right at the viewing angle boundary.  In order to maintain a 98 degree viewing angle at 2 inches beyond this point, the filter surface would have to be 193mm wide.  Add margin to that and you are right at 8" just to place something two inches beyond the lens -- and lenses that have 82mm fronts are even worse.   I doubt that is going to happen though-- it is 4x the filter surface area and probably 10x the cost. 

This isn't too hard to visualize though.  if our filter is  only 100mm and the front diameter is already 77mm (or 82mm), then you can see that the 100mm filter will have to be placed very close to maintain a 98 degree viewing angle. 

using a 150mm instead of a 100mm filter would buy us some, but again the cost...

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