If you want better DR, Spend some Dosh on a filter set.
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Thank you all for your feedback. I think I shall continue to shoot raw and Ljpeg but with adobeRGB set to take advantage of the larger colour range if I want to show a photo immediately to friends on my laptop.
I have just shot my first wedding and the couple want a wedding album made up.
I was going to do it on-line so can anyone recommend a good on-line wedding album site.
....or am I better getting it done professionally.
Any help is appreciated but don't want the album ending up costing a fortune.
UK based if possible.
Note: I want a physical wedding album printed up not just an on-line version.
Just had a rather interesting day spent with a couple of the Canon reps.. Basically iv got to play with the new EOS-M.. Build quality is very good, it has a touch screen which is pretty much the same as a iPhone ( very good even tho I strongly dislike touch screens on cameras ).. The only downside to today was I wasn't able to try it with either the standard kit lens or with the EF adaptor.. Ill uploaded some pics.. If you have any questions just ask..
Update.. For some reason I cant upload the images to Canon Rumors so Ill add them to my flickr
I'm a 550D user who has just yesterday ordered a 7D. I've never even looked through the viewfinder on a FF camera, let alone held one.
I do know my way around my camera, but on these boards I keep hearing people talking about Dynamic Range when comparing cameras or making wish lists of improvements.
Can somebody please point towards a good explanation of DR and also comparisons between similar cameras (e.g. D800 and 5D M2/3) so I can understand it better and how it impacts me? Also any explanation of camera IQ would be helpful.
Just curious - how interested are you guys in purchasing this camera as a secondary backup to your DSLR? If not this specific sony rx-1 how about a canon full frame compact camera?
Is there a market for it? What's a price you'd be willing to pay?
While the rx-1 looks and sounds amazing - I don't know that I could stomach spending 3k on a fixed lens camera. The idea behind it is awesome tho. I'm reading lots of rumors of the nex-9 (or whatever it ends up being) that will be Sony's FF mirrorless camera entry.
Now that I might pick up.
Kinda interested what everyone's thoughts were on this.
I know I've asked this before, but I kind of want a solid answer. I really do want to go FF but seeing as a used 5Dc is the only real alternative I have, I'm asking if it's actually worth it. I'm looking to keep my collection strictly EF glass because I do want to upgrade to a 5Dmk3 one day. I understand the limitations of a 5Dc (sluggish feel, horrible LCD, slow FPS, average AF) Is the 5Dc still a trust worthy FF camera that offers the basic needs of an amatuer street,landscape, and portrait photographer?
Hello all. First post on the forum. I have been reading and searching though for a while. I am a hobbyist looking to upgrade my camera body (currently T2i). My primary use of the camera is shooting ice hockey and walking around during travel / holiday. So, I am looking for something with better / faster AF performance and tracking and reasonable / fixable low noise at high ISO. Most of my ice hockey shots are ISO 1600 - 3200. My first thought was a 7D, but given where we are in the product cycle, I think it would be more advantageous to wait. I figured I could get a used / cleaned 1D mark III for relatively equal price to a refurb 7D and then see in a about a half year if I want to upgrade to the 1D mark iv or a 7D mark II / 70D (whatever canon has plans for). I shoot a 70-200 2.8L for sports fyi.
Looking for advice from anyone with experience in shooting ice hockey particularly with 7D vs 1D3 vs 1D4 etc.
Thanks in advance.
If you're buying vintage lenses, read this first:
and once that's clear, start the buying madness
Hi! I knew some lenses wouldn't keep the pace of modern digital sensors, but I'm also sure the good ones would still be good. As I said, my 25-years-old nifty fifty is so much better than any modern MK2 I've seen.I would like to get a setup of old, possibly all-metal, manual focus fast primes.
I am a child of the AF generation, so I'm very little experienced in this sense and I don't know which ones are worth having nowadays.
I'm interested in 20-28mm, 30-40mm, 50-60mm, 85-100mm and 135mm. A standard setup.
Please share your opinions with me. Doesn't matter about brands, as long as they can be adapted and that it makes sense to buy them price-wise.
Contax-Zeiss Primes have less issues being fitted to EOS camera than the FD lenses. Plus, They're awesome.
Do you have any direct experience?
D800. Its the name of the camera on everyones mouths these days. In all the blogs. In all the reviews. Its the thing raving Nikon fans rave about. Canon's taken a solid back seat to Nikon these days, particularly to the D800. I've said many times that Canon cameras have some pretty amazing highlight recovery, as Canon tends to tune their sensors response to favor highlights (either intentfully or simply as a byproduct of their manufacturing process, I can't say...although I'm inclined to think its intentional given Canon popularity among wedding photographers.)
I regularly repeat that anecdote in many of my posts...but I just came across a couple accidental overexposures of some of my own photos that I think clearly demonstrate the point. While out photographing birds with a rental Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L II IS and Canon EF 2x TC III, I kept coming across dragonflys. A telephoto lens with a TC is a great way to photograph some frame-filling insect "macros" (more like pseudomacro) without scaring the subject off. I accidentally set my exposure wrong and totally blew the first few shots:
The exposure should have been around 1/1000s @ f/8 ISO 100 (which I proved with some subsequent shots, which ended up being 1/1000s @ f/7.1 ISO 160)...so my exposure above was almost four stops overexposed. Thanks to the power of Lightroom 4.1 and its amazing highlight recovery, the above image, with -4 EV exposure correction and 60% highlight recovery, turned into this:
I'd experienced Canon's amazing highlight headroom when photographing the moon. I REALLY push my moon exposures...to the point where once exposed the moon looks like a nearly uniform almost-white disc in the in-camera preview. Once imported, its clear that there are actually few parts of the moon that are actually white. I'd never actually overexposed something so much that on import it really DID look almost entirely white. The histogram of the dragonfly was all bunched up in two peaks near the very far right...with a small gap between the second peak and the actual right edge...a gap maybe 1 or 2 pixels wide. With 100% highlight recovery in LR 4.1, even the specular highlights on the wings still retain a lot of detail:
Since this image started out way overexposed, there is zero color or pattern noise in the shadows. There is also minimal random (photon shot) noise in the shadows as well...they look as clean as a D800 at ISO 100! ;-)
So, the next time someone tells you Canon sensors suck...send em here. While Canon sensors may not be able to achieve 13.2 stops of DR or allow noiseless shadow recovery like the D800 can, they really do know how to pack in the highlights, and maintain full color fidelity while recovering. The next time you need low noise shadows...expose to the right....then, try exposing farther to the right.
I am not a professional photographer, but I would like to buy a nice portrait lens. I have a full frame body (1ds mk3) so I am considering the following lenses:
Canon 85 1.8
Sigma 85 1.4
Zeiss 85 1.4
Which would you recommend and why? Do you think it is better to go with the 135L ?
85L is over my budget and is to slow...