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Messages - cayenne

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 30, 2013, 08:50:24 PM »

Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I'd never heard of ETTR till this thread, and I'm gonna make sure and try to remember that next time out shooting higher ISO.

Also, I remembered while messing with these in post, that I had purchased the NIK plugins awhile back for Aperture 3, and had forgotten that includes a de-noiser...which I think I've had some success with.

Here is my take on that original was pretty messed up, but I think I've done a decent job in post with it.

I tried setting up my Dropbox to have the .CR2 raw files to let folks look at, but for some reason, the raw files don't seem to make it unadulterated into the dropbox share....once there, they all show the same size (like 114K or something ridiculous). SO, I'm working to figure that out for future uses.

Anyway, here's what I was able to do with it.....comments?

(I'm editing to attach the orig to compare with it.)



EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study
« on: May 30, 2013, 08:43:27 PM »
Hmm... I prefer the Canon one over the Magic Lantern one.

Give it a real try and you will NOT say that.

It depends what you mean by a real try... On a typical day I might shoot 150 clips. Processing each one of those using the current methods for getting raw video out the 5dm3 would be 1) a massive pain in the ass 2) so time consuming that it isn't worthwhile for anyone actually making professional work.

At the moment it's amazing for hobbyists (or other people for whom time doesn't equal money) - but unusable for anyone who makes videos for a living.

How much time do you currently spend, on footage from you shoots in post? I'm talking total time from editing, to color correction to color grading....sound...etc?

Just curious, I mean, for most people it isnt' like they shoot, and BAM, have a finished product out the door in 1-2 hours later.

I usually take a good bit of time auditioning takes, sync'ing or dubbing sound, layering on effects, titles...hell, just figuring out the music for things takes time, etc.

I'm guessing when the ML guys get this stuff ready for the general public (remember, it ain't even release to the general public as alpha yet really), I'm guessing they'll have the tools to prep it for whatever entry into the usual workflow worked out pretty straightforward.

Sure, you're gonna need a bit of horsepower to do the early processing of that RAW footage, but you need that with any camera that is currently outputting RAW, I shan't think its gonna be as much of a PITA as you seem to be describing it when this stuff from the ML boys is ready for prime time.

And for some of us, it isn't just turning and burning for the sake of getting something out the door. If it is another hour or so to get super high quality footage with an incredible amount of dynamic range allowing for major color correction/grading in post...then it is definitely worth it.

Quality over strikes again what balance you are gonnna go for.


Hi all,

My dad was visiting me not long back, and I took some pics of us while he was here.

I'd like to send my images (I shot in RAW and have finished PP) somewhere online for simple prints, much like you'd get in the old days when you took your film to the drugstore. 

Can someone recommend a service? I've heard of Snapfish, is that a good one?

What size am I talking about...4x6 or maybe 5x7? 

What format do I send and at what quality? jpg at 50%?  Tiff?

Do I need to crop my pics to a certain size or will what I shoot out of camera have the aspect ratio of the proper size?

Suggestions and comments greatly appreciated!!!


EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study
« on: May 30, 2013, 11:14:27 AM »
I did a test of my fiance sitting on our balcony. She has red hair and was wearing a royal blue sweater. The difference in color and detail was amazing. It really is incredible what ML have unlocked. If you have After Effects, the workflow isn't even difficult. Once you have converted the .RAW file to DNG files using the raw2dng, AE can import the DNG files easily. It then opens Adobe Camera RAW for you to tweak the first frame which it then applies to the rest.

I hope that at some point, they can figure how to convert the DNG raw out of the camera, into a DNG format that be piped straight into Davinci Resolve, so you can use that to do the color correction/grading right out of the camera....Resolve is such a powerful tool, it would amazing to be able to come out of camera into Resolve to grade it, output to ProRes and then into any editor of your choice....

What amazes me about all this paranoia over privacy (and I am a very private person) is that these same people all take pictures with cell phones and post the results on Facebook for the world to see (whose life has room for 400+ friends, I can barely maintain half a dozen friendships).  Bad pictures in a very public venue.

Yep, that's why I amd NOT on Facebook.  That's where anyone concerned with privacy should be concerned about.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 28, 2013, 11:44:43 PM »
the blinkies are on the LCD not in the viewfinder its a playback review option so any blown highligths flash
the exposure meter is along the bottom of the veiwfinder so you can see realtime what the camera is metering

Oh...Live view...ok.

So, you're saying to take a test it back and look there to see what is blown out, etc...and adjust for next shot?

Thank you for the replies!



The ONLY problems I've ever had, shooting documentaries all over the world and the country were in Louisiana - did 3 projects there.  Buncha crazy paranoids, I tell ya!  Maybe NO is different than the rest of the state (our crew mostly had run ins with police around Baton Rouge and then further south closer to Houma.  I'm sure you're a nice guy but honestly I spent almost a year there shooting those pieces and I don't care if I ever go back - beautiful scenery and the ladies are pretty too, but I really really was left with a bad impression of the people.
My goodness!!

I am so sorry to hear this, I really am. That just is not indicative of what is usually described about us....

Well, if you're every in the NOLA area, please drop me a line and I'll buy ya a couple of drinks....and who knows, bring your camera we *might* find something interesting to shoot in this town.



EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 28, 2013, 11:08:22 PM »
again massive under exposure mate

here is how i have my camera setup
- spot metering  I use this 99% of the time and very rarely i switch it to evaluative
- always meter on the persons face
- manual mode only (not being snobby but I just can't use AV or TV or auto anything properly it always comes out wrong
- in the viewfinder on the little meter scale with the center of the frame over the persons face i adjust my shutter speed or iso so the little marker is over +1 over what the camera meters then take a shot from here i'm either happy and leave it at +1 or i adjust it over or under by 1/3rd of a stop to taste
coupled with this its essential to have highlight alert enabled aka the blinkies (you know the screen flashes black and white in blown highlight areas) ensure no skin has the blinkies and dont worry if it looks over exposed.

no be aware as iso increase your available dynamic range reduces alot so the higher you go the less highlight headroom you have . this is why auto anything pretty much always underexposes to protect tghe highlights even if you might not care if those highlights it is protecting blow or not. Focus on the face exposure forget the rest and its all good.

this sounds like alot of work but at night in an event the lighting is often pretty constant even if it is crap and its basically set and forget with the odd iso or SS tweak where needed. Especially if you are using flash with ETTL it gets a whole lot easier

then in post pull down the exposure by a stop or so overall and boost the shadows which come back clean and not full of gain noise or apply a curve trim the highlights as required and then look at contrast etc. very basic

the key is dont blow out the skin highlights and expose as far over as you can without blowing key highlights

Thanks for the advice!!

I'm not familiar with the 'blinkies' highlight alert setting....I didn't know there was a way to set up the viewfinder to have it flash when something is overexposed....I'll start to research where that is set at!!

I don't have Lightroom, I'm currently using Apeture 3. I also have the NIK plugins. I can adjust the WB, and get them looking decent with regard to color, and with bringing down that glare in the windows...

But even with shapening and trying to use the Apeture noise reduction, it looks horrible.

I just seem to rarely ever get the super tack sharp, clear, like your could reach through and touch images that most others post on here. LIke at the beginning of the thread, those with the sports shots, likely shot in MUCH tougher conditions that I have, and they look very much of mine looks like cr@p.

If I set up poses, like I did with a friend of mine with headshots, I can get some really good looking images, but when out and about like eating at a restaurant or taking snaps around the Quarter with friends, I just never seem to be able to get really crisp pro looking shots for the most part.

But ya'll have given me something to work on...the +1 exposure on the meter, and exposing spot for the face, I'll start working on those.

BY the way...I have a dropbox set up with these RAW images in them if anyone wants to play with them and post what you'd do to correct and let me see how much noise you can clean from them, PM me and I'll give you the link and maybe you can post the jpg back to this thread?

Again THANK YOU all very much for all the input and suggestions. I know the best way is to get it right in camera and I'm definitely taking notes here!!!


The paranoia runs especially deep (at least here in the U.S.) when it comes to children -- at least taking photographs of them (we don't seem to get quite as upset when they're shot!).

I found myself surrounded by four police officers (township and county) demanding to know why I was taking pictures of kids on school buses. I was standing on the street waiting for a bus, and to kill time I was taking pictures -- a few school buses went by and big yellow things make colorful pictures. I didn't give it a lot of thought or look for much from the pictures.

Apparently someone who should be seeing a therapist called the cops and told them someone was taking pictures of kids on school buses. Police, equally paranoid, sprang into action; not much else going on mid-afternoon, I suppose.

It can be tough when you carry a camera!

Wow..that's amazing.

Seems stupid to me too...I mean, if you WERE wanting to kidnap some kids or something, WTF would you want to be photographing them so brazenly in public beforehand??  Just doesn't make sense....

Then again...of late, it seems the world has really changed in so many significant ways in the past couple decades in ways that are truly sad, and one of them is in how we think of and treat other people.

Thank you all for the suggestions.

What size umbrella would you recommend?

I got the idea of the B&H Impact softbox, which is a knockoff of the lazolite a suggestion by Syl Arena on some videos he had out. He used the higher end one and then said he now things this cheaper version is about the same for less, I was gonna give it a try.

Ok, looks like maybe 24x24 on the quick soft box....but again, what size on the umbrellas to start off with?

Thanks again!


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 28, 2013, 08:06:30 PM »
Is there a way to get the RAW files posted on here for ya'll to play with and maybe give me some pointers on?


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 28, 2013, 08:03:58 PM »
Do you have Highlight Tone Priority (User Manual page 146) and Auto Lighting Optimizer  (User Manual Page 142) turned "OFF" in the menus?  I didn't bother to read through the replies so perhaps this has been mentioned already but that is the first thing I did when I noticed that my 5D3 had more noise than I expected.
No, both of those are turned off.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 28, 2013, 07:54:38 PM »

I'm not familiar with ETTR...what is that?

Expose to the right...

Edit: iPad changed my word "Expose" to "Exposé"! Wow! Corrected it...

Ahh..ok.  A new acronym to learn.

So, the advice I'm getting, is to overexpose on darker indoor pics, right?

I'm still VERY much the noob.

I'm trying to learn to only shoot manual. I generally pick an aperture I want, then ISO as low as I can guess I can get it, and then when shooting, I try to adjust shutter speed till the exposure is about right.

When I've been doing video, I'd found that it worked MUCH better if I slightly underexposed, and in Post I've been able to do much more with it.

It seems the advice here so far, is, that I should over expose at higher ISO's indoors...for still images?

Also, I'm wondering if something may be amiss with my lens. I was using my 17-40mm f/4 lens.

I've found many of my images not only seem noisy, but also BAD with focus. I was shooting the other night with it, and I have it set to One Shot, with AF set to the first expansion using the 4 points surrounding the center (cross shaped). Anyway, the other night using it, I noticed on many shots, the focus points didn't seem to illuminate red like they usually do, I wonder if something might be amiss with the lens? I bought it used....

I do use the 'joystick' controller on the back to move the focus around to where I want it....

I'm attaching 3x more..these were more indicative of my shooting with the bright behind my dad, etc.

I know, bad WB, I saw that later.

I'll admit, I was indulging quite a bit in the cocktails...but even so, most of these were only after one drink starting the 2nd one.

Of late, MANY of my shots just seem to look like cr@p like this....

These were shot in RAW, and I've just made jpgs of them at 50% size...these are straight out of the camera.
I can fix a lot in post usually, but I can't seem to make anything useful out of these with the noise and focus problems.

Thanks so far for all the advice, I'm still trying to digest it all.....please keep the suggestions coming.


Few months ago I was shooting a school building. I was told it'd be empty, but there was some after school basketball tournament no-one told me about. I checked in at the office, they knew I was supposed to be there, and they gave me a visitor badge to wear. And every 5 minutes one of the teacher came to me, asking why I'm taking pictures of the kids. I tried to explain I was hoping the building was empty, as I didn't want people on the pics. Most took the explanation, but one older lady was really pressing me if I was really supposed to be there, and that was I really taking pictures of the building and not the kids.

When did it become 'illegal' to take pictures of kids? What gives them special 'rights' the rest of us don't seem to have?

For those complaining about the Komputerbay memory cards: DO YOUR RESEARCH.  It clearly states on the product info that the 128GB cards have slower write times than the 64GB cards.  Don’t just blindly buy any card that says 1000X, that rating comes from the READ speed, not the WRITE speed.  (as it has since I’ve been using CF cards on the original 5D)

I have a 64GB Komputerbay card, I was originally a skeptic but, it works just fine.  I’ve already shot over 256GB of RAW video with zero issues.  The 64GB card is the one to get right now.  If you need more space just get a couple.  If you need to do single clips longer than 64GB in size…you would probably be better served by the crappy on-board video.

Also, these cards seem to use the same chips as the Sandisk ones…so enjoy paying for brand names.

The place where I ordered my KomputerBay advertised a "minimum 90MB/s write speed", which was not accurate and I am returning it today. No big deal. On a side note, James Miller shot part of his "Genesis" video using this card (shooting 1920 x 720).

I ordered a Transcend 1000x 128GB about 10 days ago. It just arrived. The fastest write time I could get was around 83MB/s. It's not useless, but it won't get 1920x1080. I'm returning it today. No big deal.

Fortunately, I have a Lexar 1000x 32GB and a Hoodman 1000x 64GB, which both write in the low 90s. Next up for me is a KomputerBay 1000x 64GB (probably sold out most places by now). And then I'll be on the prowl for a Toshiba.

Wow, that sucks!  What site was it?  Amazon lists the write speeds, thankfully, or I would've suffered the same fate!  I almost pulled the trigger on the 128GB until I saw that.

I'm hoping fast cards come down in price soon, I have an 8-day climbing trip to Canada in two months and I'd like to be able to shoot more than 7 minutes of RAW video!  lately I've been just lugging my laptop along and transferring to it as my one fast card fills up.

I keep shooting 1920x720 on accident, I wish the ML firmware would default to 1920x1080 instead of 1920x720...oh well, beggars can't be choosers!

There are definitely fast, bigger cards (Transcend) but I'm trying to save up for a new wide-angel prime so I'll hold out for now! (I'd feel like a chump paying over $300 for a freakin' memory card!)

I thought you could get a bit less than 15 min on a 64GB card....?


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