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Messages - Northstar

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1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: March 01, 2014, 05:14:55 PM »
85 L II. Couldn't decide if I wanted the the two bottom elements there or not, but waited a while for them to drift in, so I'll leave them there, lol.

hey viggo...I like the bottom elements in the pic...very serene!

1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: March 01, 2014, 10:56:40 AM »
200mm f/2.0

great image...sharp sharp sharp!

gary...where do you get these wildlife images, are you near a wildlife refuge? 

Canon General / Re: Why Image Quality isn't Everything
« on: March 01, 2014, 10:54:16 AM »
isn't this a part of the world where lots of children wander the streets?   dangerous for them indeed!

Reviews / Re: Nikon D4s VS Canon 1Dx Comparison
« on: March 01, 2014, 07:42:14 AM »
crap...oh well, I'll sell my 1Dx on ebay and get the D4s....darn it.   ::)

Good luck with that.  Now that the D4s is out, the 1D X won't be worth much...   :o ;) :-X


Reviews / Re: Nikon D4s VS Canon 1Dx Comparison
« on: February 28, 2014, 08:25:00 PM »
crap...oh well, I'll sell my 1Dx on ebay and get the D4s....darn it.   ::)

Software & Accessories / Re: need help choosing the right macbook.
« on: February 27, 2014, 06:36:42 PM »
Thank you everyone. I decided to go with the 16gb. I appreciate the advice. I didn't want to have any lag or issue if I have multiple software open. Thank you once again

good choice....i went with the same 13" mbpro retina but with only 8gb ram....it runs great with only 8gb so I imagine 16gb will help future proof it a little more.

Lenses / Re: 24-70/2.8 Canon or Tamron: Which did you choose and why?
« on: February 27, 2014, 05:55:34 PM »

Tamron's VC or Canon IS will not help with people photography in dimly lit indoor situations ... coz people move

At say 50 mm focal length, with adults "trying" to pose and not move, what minimum shutter speed would be typically required for subject motion?

Looking over my shots, I actually got some very sharp photos at around 65 mm at 1/30th. 
Some of the moderately blurred photos were for example 61 mm at 1/16 th !  Didn't even realize how slow shutter speed was due to trying to run after people.  So in these situations, IS/VC would not have helped anyway?

It would help at those slow shutter speeds, but it doesn't help if people are moving...only if YOU are moving. 

regarding your question about at 50mm focal length....I would say shoot at 1/100 for sharp shots without IS...if that requires you to bump up ISO to 3200 or 6400, so be it.   The noise is easily removed in post processing, or if shooting JPEG, the 5d3 does an awesome job at noise reduction if you turn it on in the camera settings.

Lenses / Re: General purpose zoom for honeymoon
« on: February 27, 2014, 10:56:08 AM »
IMHO... unless your wife is really into photography, impress her with your sacrifice of leaving 90% of your stuff at home and make this trip about HER!  Make a STATEMENT to her by sacrificing your photo gear for her.

good point rusty.

Or, you could pack every single camera, lens, tripod, and accessory you own and set it all down with your other luggage  and wait for a response....depending on her facial expression and body language, and how loudly she says "REALLY?" ...you should be able to figure out roughly how much you can take. ;D

Animal Kingdom / Re: Your best animal shots!
« on: February 27, 2014, 09:53:47 AM »
I just purchased a Canon 180mm f3.5 Macro L and have had great fun with it.  This is a Hoverfly, less than 1/4" long in real life.  Photograph made hand held in natural light, ISO 200, f7.1 @ 1/500.

great shot!

Marsu...I think you're right that many know about it, but I also think many don't and/or don't know it well enough.  It's an incredible learning tool/website for those that don't, or want to learn more....which is why I posted.

I didn't want to criticize, on the contrary, posting standard links now and again is a good idea since old threads obviously seldom get read :-p ... speaking of which and concerning 1dx/6d/60 & ff/crop, I didn't post this link for some weeks now :->

Pro DSLR + Cheapo Lens vs "Cheapo" DSLR + Pro Lens

No offense taken.

I've seen that video, I think Kai does some funny stuff from time to time...rather hit or miss though.   I just noticed he posted a new video on how to shoot nude portraits that I'm sure some would enjoy....for learning purposes of course.

EOS Bodies / Re: Full Frame Vs Crop Sensor
« on: February 27, 2014, 06:20:41 AM »

If the light is constant and you compare an image from a crop sensor and FF. both shot in M mode, at the same aperture and SS you'll notice the FF image to be brighter. I think it's like 2/3 of a stop. Could be more. However, in Av mode both cameras should spit out the same as the camera adjusts the SS accordingly. I did this experiment with my 5D2 and 7D. The FF gathers more light. So in low light it does make a difference. In bright sunlight that wouldn't be an issue as your SS can be whatever.

Only if your camera is faulty, exposure has nothing to do with sensor size. Absolutely nothing.

I see. Could it be due to the larger pixels then?

Zv...my 5d3 and 1dx always seem to underexpose by 1/4 stop if I let the camera choose the exposure.   Different cameras expose differently even in manual with the same settings.  Maybe the reasons are technical design differences, manufacturing allowances, product manager goals/ objectives for marketing the camera...I don't have the answer, maybe someone else does.

When using the exact same:
1. Focal length
2. Aperture
3. Distance to target

Thanks, but I suspect most of us know about that, but just to recapitulate and not enter any mudslinging again :-p the issue at hand is:

* same focal lengths just for the sake of discussion, but the different working distance for live critters is an issue

* not the same distance to target to have the same framing (I'd like the butterfly to fill my frame, no matter the sensor size). Given the specifics of a macro lens, this might also mean the effective f-stop differs even more than at standard distances.

* not the same aperture to reach a comparable dof, resulting in an iso shift

Overall, the 1D X and 6D deliver the best quality, with the weak spot of the 6D being its viewfinder

Um, what's wrong with the 6d vf? I've never come near a 1dx, so I cannot tell the difference and what you might refer to.

Marsu...I think you're right that many know about it, but I also think many don't and/or don't know it well enough.  It's an incredible learning tool/website for those that don't, or want to learn more....which is why I posted.

It's much easier to learn about DOF when you manipulate the variables on a calculator and see actual results versus reading about the subject.   And for macro work, DOF knowledge is critical.

As to the OP's original question, I think with good light it doesn't matter so much, but if you have golden hour light and need to work with higher ISO values then I would much rather have the FF.   

Hopefully this is helpful for some folks following this discussion.

When using the exact same:

1. Focal length
2. Aperture
3. Distance to target

The following two images show what happens to the depth of field when using a crop vs a FF camera.  I've compared a 5d3 with a 7D.  Note that the crop camera has a shallower depth of field

For anyone following this post that wants to learn more about depth of field and how it changes with different apertures, distances, and focal lengths, then go play around with the following website.  (Neuro referenced it earlier)


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?
« on: February 26, 2014, 07:47:52 PM »
I am trying to improve my sports photography and I am hoping that the expert opinions which abound on this sight can provide me some pointers. I am shooting with a canon 7D, Tamron 70-200 2.8vc, Settings SERVO and AF POINT EXPANSION, custom white balance.

The Arena lighting is.....terrible and my shots are not as sharp as I would hope as I frequently have to adjust to ISO 2000. I also posses a 6D which is able to handle those higher ISO levels but trades off the frame rate.

ISO 2000 is the max(imo) for the 7D so if you're shooting with a 70-200 at ISO 2000, f2.8, and 1/500 and it's still too dark, then you have no choice but to switch to the 6D and shoot at ISO 3200 or 4000. (with hockey you should ideally expose to the right anyway 1/4 to 1/2 stop to see under their helmets a little bit better)

"shooting to the right" is important in hockey, check your histogram.

for hockey, 1/500 is a bare minimum when lighting is terrible.   1/640 is ok/fine, 1/800 or above is ideal.

Lenses / Re: General purpose zoom for honeymoon
« on: February 26, 2014, 07:36:34 AM »
Thanks for all the comments. Some really great advice here.

I think I'll go with just maybe 2 primes. Think it might end up being 24mm and 100l (because I love macro).

And pack my compact for days when life is more important than ultimate iq

Yes, and also take plenty of vitamins. ;D

I'm also planning a trip and I am tired of lugging all the big gear (and worrying about it being stolen from the hotel room ) so I'm looking at something small and light with great IQ....the Fuji x100s.

So if you're itching to buy something new for the trip, the Fuji x100s would be my recommendation....and leave all the pro gear at home.

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