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Messages - awinphoto

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1621
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: November 02, 2011, 04:36:10 PM »
ok, as i was talking about my images earlier, ive included my store link in my signature, does it work?


thanks

Store link works... nice photos...

1622
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark II & 60D Shortages
« on: November 02, 2011, 10:33:02 AM »
For what it's worth I ordered a 5d2 off of adorama lately and they shipped it the same day.... Cant speak for other places... 

1623
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: November 01, 2011, 06:18:25 PM »
Do you use photoshop CS5 or 5.5?  I shoot product photography a good chunk of my time (what pays most my bills)... I do focus bracketing...

Not to muck with a successful workflow, but have you considered Helicon Focus?

I have tried and bought helicon focus a few months ago, whilst it is good, you do need to fix some mistakes, and a rack for the camera would help the little size diffrences caused by refocusing.
Auto bracketing? is that a camera option i missed?

and yes i am a ps5 fan :-)

There's no auto focus bracketing... I do mine manually (usually around 2-8 shots depending on how macro I've got to get my lens, and how physically big it is... )  I do like in photoshop CS5 it keeps all the layers and keeps the layer masks so you can just use your white/black brushes in the layer masks to reveal and hide areas it may have missed... In the end it's a computer guessing what it thinks is sharp in relation to other files in the same area and if you have decent ram and processing power, doesn't take that long.  Quick hint, if you want to play with it, use photo merge... use auto... it usually does a good job... and unclick blend images... if you dont unclick it will think it's a panorama and royally screw things up, but once it aligns it, use autoblend and that will create the stacked image and masks...

Unfocused... in order to understand DOF better, there are tons of DOF calculators like neuro suggested... They also with any lens, a 50mm or 400mm, the closer your subjects are to your lens (minimum focus distance) the shallower your DOF will be and farther away in relation to what your lens focuses (wider lenses can reach infinity near 10-15 feet while tele's may go 40-50 meters if not more... ) Using that focus scale as a rough estimate, using your aperture to your advantage, and looking at DOF calculators if in doubt, keep in mind if you're using crop or FF, you will have greater control over bokeh and or large DOF. 

1624
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: November 01, 2011, 05:48:41 PM »


I agree. They do compliment each other.

I also agree about the ISO.. I'd never put the 7d above 640, yet regularly have the 5d at 1600.

Is this for RAW's or jpegs?

For sports and wildlife, I regularly use 7D ISO 500-1000. Careful noise reduction and careful sharpening can help, but frankly, mostly the images are fine without a whole lot of trouble. This is with both RAW and JPG.

Usually, I shoot RAW, bit for BIFs, sometimes JPG makes life easier... And the noise still isn't that bad!

ISO is a personal preference... I come from the film days where grain was fully dependent on the size of the film (35mm, MF, 4x5), the size of the output, and ISO... ISO 400 on a 35mm at 8x10 was very noticeable but you lived with it... Then digi came out and the Canon 10D and D60 and anything above ISO 800 looked like somone sneezed on the image.  Now I can go up to ISO 3200 on my 7D and get grain at 11x14's as I would expect in Film at the same size at ISO 400.  I am not as picky about it because If it comes down to it, I know i can always throw a filter in and wipe out most the noise.  Anyone, in my opinion, not shooting a modern camera because of grain, really has too much time on their hands... It's really not the issue that it was 5 years ago, 10 years ago, etc...

1625
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: November 01, 2011, 05:26:19 PM »
Okay, that's an explanation from a guy who never took a physics course in his life. I'll let others give you a more precise or corrected explanation. (Or perhaps explain why I am completely wrong)

Both aperture AND relation of the subject to camera will determine DOF.  IF you are shooting infinity, as you mention, you can shoot at F4 and most items will be infocus (except perhaps foreground items)... Aperture will expand upon that but it is what it is.  The only downside to the infinity issue is size of objects... I do a lot of small object photography so even if I have a 200-400mm lens at infinity... Even if I put that puppy at F11-22, the item most likely due to the distance I would have to be away from the subject to achieve this, it would A be impractical in a studio setting and B, the items would be teenie tiny in the frame... Now you can use, and I do on occasion, tele's to compress or achieve even shallower DOF when I know my background can be distracting or if there is a visible seam in the background that I want to blur into oblivion, But then again I've got that lens near the "macro" end of the tele in which DOF becomes razor thin.  Diffraction usually isn't a problem for what I do however if I'm shooting for large output, I shoot anywhere from F8-11... Any more and I dont want to risk image degeneration, even if it's minimal.  In the film days and with medium format and large format I wouldn't think twice about going to F22 and way beyond but with digital, I do have to think about shooting at the optimum apertures for my lenses. 

1626
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: November 01, 2011, 02:48:06 PM »
Do you use photoshop CS5 or 5.5?  I shoot product photography a good chunk of my time (what pays most my bills)... I do focus bracketing...

Not to muck with a successful workflow, but have you considered Helicon Focus?

I looked into programs such as helicon a few years ago (before photoshop started supporting focus stacking)... At that time, I proposed this option to my client however they felt that the cost I would have passed onto them for that option wasn't worth it... then CS5 came out and supported it... Since they are a regular client they pay for my software upgrades as they see fit as per our contract and so to have that option built in was an easy sell.  Also I never have to leave photoshop whereas helicon i believe is a standalone program?  Photoshop saves the layers under layer masks so if I need to tweak anything, a few clicks and it's good to go..  The simpler I can keep my workflow the quicker I can get stuff done and it's a win win for me and my clients. 

1627
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: November 01, 2011, 02:24:12 PM »
I know it wasnt my topic but thanks, that makes sence, and stupidly i never even considered stopping down a little bit more. I stop down as much as i dare with my 450D (up to f11) when doing small item studio stuff to get larger dof.
For scale purposes imagine a football filling most of your frame,, try getting that all in focus and sharp as possible. Thats why i like lots of dof.

Is using the 50mm prime lens on a 5D2 a good idea for this scale, as DOF will be greater that say the 100mm macro

( i like the comment "Shoot at F2.8 instead of f2" lol, wrong end)

Cheers

Do you use photoshop CS5 or 5.5?  I shoot product photography a good chunk of my time (what pays most my bills)... I do focus bracketing... I need sets to be sharp whether I clip out the images and shove them on the web or whether they go on magazine spreads... I focus on varying parts of the scene and then in photoshop, I usually auto align the images, then after that, auto blend them with the stack images selected... It will take the sharpest parts of the images and blend them to look like one large DOF image... It usually does a good job and gets you in the ballpark... I use it from the smallest teenie tiny bottle cap where I'm basically shooting macro distances to fill the frame to a large group shot of product.  It allows me to use a small studio, optimum aperture for sharpest images, and I dont mind photoshop so it works out.  If you have a flat scene or keeping backgrounds in, it may do a better job than others, but something to consider.  I've gotten so used to my workflow it doesn't take me that much longer than regular 1 shot images... 

1628
EOS Bodies / Re: Big 5D Mark II Price Drops in Canada & USA
« on: November 01, 2011, 11:24:17 AM »
Do you have the link to this page?  I am very close to purchasing a 60D.

Pricing at B&H and Amazon reflects the instant rebate, which runs through 11/23.

Adorama also has the update price for the rebate... Gotta love rebate season.  =)

1629
EOS Bodies / Re: Big 5D Mark II Price Drops in Canada & USA
« on: November 01, 2011, 11:20:59 AM »
Quote
I noticed on the canon USA website at least that the 5D2 rebate has been removed... They have a 60D and a T3 rebate plus lenses rebates so I would guess that if website haven't been updating their prices, they will be soon unless canon extends the rebates

Do you have the link to this page?  I am very close to purchasing a 60D.

Thanks! -- Steven

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer?pageKeyCode=53

Hope this helps...

1630
EOS Bodies / Re: Big 5D Mark II Price Drops in Canada & USA
« on: November 01, 2011, 10:44:35 AM »
I noticed on the canon USA website at least that the 5D2 rebate has been removed... They have a 60D and a T3 rebate plus lenses rebates so I would guess that if website haven't been updating their prices, they will be soon unless canon extends the rebates

1631
Lenses / Re: Canon 24/105mm f/4L IS USM vs Canon 24/70mm f/2.8L USM
« on: November 01, 2011, 10:23:03 AM »
This conversations and comparison has been beaten to death as much as the 7D/5D conversation has if not more... 2 trains of thought... first, people say if you need 2.8, the 24-105 just cant do that and IS wont freeze motion... then again 2.8 to 4 is only 1 stop and wont really freeze motion any more than f4 UNLESS f4 is really on the cusp and you need 2.8 to get that extra little bit... Secondly, 2.8, especially on full frame cameras is still razor thin, especially on the long end, so yeah you can freeze (maybe) people dancing at a reception but you have difficulties getting the eyes in focus due to the low light and constant motion...  Is the 2.8 really an advantage then?  I've tested samples of both lenses in my studio for a good week... IQ between the two are negligible and dont forget extra heft and bulk... To be fair, I really dislike how both lenses extend when zooming... I prefer internal zooming when possible... and at least the 24-70 hood protects the lens when zooming, but then you get the reverse zoom which isn't for me either... To me I compromised and got the 24-105 as it's the lesser of two evils and i'm not afraid of using flash to get more light.   

1632
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5D3 Release Date Poll (and your thoughts)
« on: November 01, 2011, 10:03:23 AM »
Given they ANNOUNCED the 1dx now and it wont even be available til march 2012, I could see the 5D announced sometime near/after march 2012 but not released until summer/fall 2012 (just in time for photokina)... Heck it better not come out soon, I just bought my 5d II with the rebates...  =)  All seriousness, the 1dx delay in release must hint at production slowdown/problems/concerns, so a new 5d3 to mass produce probably wont be as quickly as anyone would be hoping for. 

1633
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5D mark III on November 3rd? (VOTING POLL)
« on: October 27, 2011, 09:57:38 PM »
It better not, just bought my mark 2 off a steal.

1634
EOS Bodies / Re: How weather resistant is a 5DMK2 really?
« on: October 26, 2011, 01:55:00 PM »
Pardon my ignorance, but does anyone know of a good source (whitepaper/backgrounder/etc.) that explains weathersealing and shockresistance.

I know Canon doesn't say much other than vague statements (no doubt to avoid liability) and I've watched the great video of the low-end Canon and Nikon cameras being absolutely destroyed, but I do get a bit confused about this whole issue.

Do people seriously take their cameras out in rainstorms and shoot with no protection? Are we talking about just getting a little surface moisture on a camera from a light mist, or are we talking about full-on downpours? I think I remember seeing an article once about a National Geographic shooter covering a dye festival in India and then hosing his 1 series camera off afterward.

I admit I tend to baby my equipment as far as moisture goes, although I've hard my share of accidental drops, bangs and bashings.

Just curious what the parameters are or if there is any knowledgeable source of information on this subject.

Shock Resistance, I could not tell you... worst cases I've had personally is my toddler grabbing my 7D off the kitchen table and dropping it about 2-3 feet to the floor... No damage and kept plugging along (after I let my heart settle a bit)... Water resistance I think DPR has diagrams of where the weather sealings/gaskets are on cameras they review... As far as other tests or more authoritative info on exactly how much water is allowed and this and that, I'm afraid the University of Google is your best bet if you can find that info... I've taken my 7D in snow storms and light rain without protection and haven't had a problem... I vaguely remember reading one guy who brought a bunch of 5d II's to Antarctica on a photo expedition on boats and whatnot (shortly after the 5d 2 was released) and had failures galore saying moisture got into the battery compartment (on gripped bodies) and they had to remove the battery grips and or let them dry overnight... I think he said most worked after they dried but some didn't... I guess I'd err on the side of common sense... If in doubt, protect your gear. 

1635
EOS Bodies / Re: How weather resistant is a 5DMK2 really?
« on: October 26, 2011, 10:12:18 AM »
Like neuro, the 5d II is equivalent if not maybe a hair better sealed than the 50D/60D... The 7D i have been able to shoot well in a snow storm or two and haven't thought twice about shooting in light rain (even though I made sure to get it in dry conditions as soon as possible after shooting... The 5d II being like the xxD series, I've had my xxd cameras fail on me when shooting in high heat and high humidity... (no rain)... They would cease functioning until I got them in a dry A/C room to cool and dry off.  I dont think it would be as bad if you were shooting with sealed L lenses... (less rain to get into the internals and sensor) but still it's taking your chances... As a bit of very cheap insurance, carry a spare plastic grocery bag with you... when needed, rip a hole in it, slide the very end of the lens through the hole, bonus if you have a rubber band to seal the bag, and shoot until you're done... Dont overstay your welcome and get dry ASAP but if a freak raincloud pops up you're covered. 

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