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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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I am using 5D bodies at present & am looking at upgrading to the 5Dmk111 to provide a better viewing screen for checking exposures & better quality files with upgraded digi 5 processor ,even though my 3x 5D are working perfectly& I'm very happy with results.
       Understanding that if I want to use a CF & SD card to record Full RAW files simultaneously for back up purposes for wedding photography & that the write speed is governed by the slower write speed of the SD card internal canon connection. Does anyone know the resulting frame rate available? & is it really aproblem if I'm not shooting multiple frames.
       Also I'm considering purchasing a "quantum blade battery" for those bright Australian summer beach shoots which drain AA batteries quickly so the flash keeps fully charged while being used heavily for fill flash. I think I prefer the blade to clip on & cable styles so the camera remains unattached to me . I have heard the blade causes interference on the 5D & I heard rumors some folks have had flash failures/burnout due to the constant power causing overheating ext, any opinions or experiences would be much welcomed B4 I spend any money. Thanks Pete
Don't use the screen to check exposures, use the histogram. 
The frame rate will not suffer until the buffer is filled, then it will take a longer time to empty the buffer.
Unless you are machine gunning everything in site hoping to get a keeper, you should be fine.  One shot usually works for me, but I usually take a second one just to be sure.  Even for sports, you can learn to time things right just as pro photographers did for many many years.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Only 1 lens
« on: December 10, 2012, 09:00:58 PM »
Canon has some really good deals on refurb power shot cameras right now.  Nothing wrong with a G12 for $279 or a S100 for $229 if they can do the job. Do what you have to do to take care of finances.
Maybe a T3i kit for $450.  http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_283207_-1

EOS Bodies / Re: 6D or 5D3 (or wait for 7d2?)
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:41:34 PM »
a 1/2 stop improvement for a new model is typical, do not expect 1 stop or more in a 7D MK II unless they go to a rear illuminated sensor.  They are very near the limit that their current technology permits.  There is only limited space for wiring to run between photosites, and making the wiring smaller is not a option, the voltage floats too high and crosstalk results in a poor image.
Rear illuminated sensors allow larger wiring and that allows you to boost the sensitivity of the photosites with less noise.

Software & Accessories / Re: What is the SD card speed required for 6d?
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:35:53 PM »
I'd get a card with a minimum write speed of 20mb/sec.
WATCH OUT.  Read the specs.  Write speeds are 1/3 and less of the card speed, which uses read speeds.
EXAMPLE:  $70 SANDISK 45 mb/sec card has a 10mb/sec minimum read speed!
The 64GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Class 10 from SanDisk is a high-performance memory card. It improves upon the previous version's 30 MB/s max read / write speed by offering faster 45 MB/s performance. Minimum write speed is still 10 MB/s. These data rates get you ready for the next shot faster, and cut down on wait time when you're transferring your work from card to PC.

Get the 95mb/sec card that was recommended, and you'll get at least 20-30mb/sec minimum write speeds.  Max write speeds don't count for me.

Why didn't Neuro figure this out :)
I'll have to check my lenses.

Lighting / Re: Led + Camera = Compass ( home experiment ) DISCOVERY
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:54:38 PM »
Its not clear why you are posting this, or what you want Canon to do. 
Its clear that you are a innovative thinker, and thats good, you refer to patents, but give no patent numbers. 
Lasers have been used to determine aircraft speeds since the 1980's, for example, but its much less expensive and more accurate now to use GPS. How would your method work better and cost less than a GPS Unit, which not only gives speed, but position, direction, and altitude for a very low cost.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: CompactFlash vs SDXC (Effectively 5D3 vs 6D)
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:31:07 PM »
My concerns about speed were generally unfounded.

I just tested my memory cards for speed:
Card TypeCard Write SpeedCard Read Speed
SD - SanDisk 16GB Extreme Pro UHS-1 95MBps70.5MBps87.5MBps
SD - Transcend UHS-1 32GB35.0MBps84.5MBps
CF - Transcend 16GB 600x26.9MBps78.7MBps

The SD UHS-1 cards truly surprised me!  I also learned that the SDXC readers in Retina MacBook Pro's are direct to the logic board and transfer at 2.5GT/s, which is well into the GB/s range.  The old MacBook Pro's used to have their SDXC readers attached to the USB 2.0 bus, so they were limited to a theoretical maximum of 60MBps.

I'm quite happy with new SDHC cards!
Was the test done in a Mac or a camera?  There is no way a SD card will operate that fast in a 5D MK III, maybe a 6D.
Test methods can make a huge difference in file transfer speed.  The  fastest speed is usually by transfering very large files, 1GB for example.  The file format of the card can allow higher speeds as well, because compression rates vary.
Transfering a large number of jpeg files will be slower.

Lenses / Re: Problem with EF-S 10-22mm Image Softness
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:18:47 PM »
Asymmetrical loss of sharpness is usually due to decentering of one (or more) lens elements.  Canon can certainly correct the problem, not sure of the cost (depends on the severity), but figure $200 more or less.
You can test for decentering.  Use a flat brick wall, make certain you are setup absolutely perpendicular to it.  Rotate the camera at 90 degree increments, taking images at each.  It the soft area rotates with the image, send it to Canon with a description of the issue.
Decentering happens as a lens is used, there can be various internal causes, usually related to bumping the lens. Canon will replace any damaged parts, and realign things. The cost may vary depending on the parts and labor required.
When buying a used lens, its a good idea to check for decentering since its so common.

EOS Bodies / Re: Memory Cards--What is the absolute best?
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:10:32 PM »
I have used SanDisc cards since I switched from film to digital cameras.  I shoot a 1Dx and a MKIV.....what is the absolute best card that I can put in my cameras?
It all depends on what the term best means to you.  You do not always get all the attributes you want.
Most reliable ?
Low Cost?
High Reliability and high speed cards exist for industrial, military, and aeropace applications, but they tend to cost more.  Some might call them the best, but it depends on your application.  Buying into metal frames and burn-in is expensive.
For example:  http://delkinoem.com/compactflash-high-performance-extended-temp.html#tab-4

Lenses / Re: Nikkor Vs L Lens
« on: December 09, 2012, 11:28:10 PM »
Generally, the new MK II Canon lenses are far sharper, lighter, and just plain better.  That does not make the Nikon lenses bad, they are very good.  With lenses, it cost a huge amount to gain a relatively small increase in performance.  Production of the top lenses is state of the art, and tolerances are so small that they can't be measured, they have to use indirect means to determine the accuracy of the grinding, and even then, they fit the elements by trial and error until they get a combination that gives the desired result.
Thats why we do not see low cost lenses from China that match the high end lenses.  We eventually will, but, for now, Only a few companies make relatively affordable super telephoto lenses.  There are better ones made for military lenses, but the cost makes a high end Nikon or Canon lens look dirt cheap.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mark III Frustrated Focusing problem
« on: December 09, 2012, 11:17:15 PM »
When you get into FF sensors, you will get a much shallower depth of field than with a small sensor camera.  With a point and shoot camera, for example, almost everything tends to be in focus.  That makes them easy to use and get sharp in-focus shots.
With a FF DSLR, photographers use the ability to have a shallow depth of field to isolate a subject and have things in the background be out of focus.
However, there are times when you want as much as possible to be in focus, landscapes, or groups of people.  In cases like this, you must use small apertures, f/8, f/11, even f/16.
Setup your camera and take several shots focusing on something fairly close with a few different apertures and you will see the difference in background focus.
Then, step back a ways and do the same thing.  Notice that the depth of field is greater when you are back from your subject.
Use a combination of these techniques to control what is in focus.

Technical Support / Re: How to AFMA precisely without Lenscal?
« on: December 08, 2012, 12:19:55 PM »
As noted above, there are plenty of free focus charts, and plenty of gotchas as well.
I've found two major areas to be careful of.
1.  Use a test method that absolutely ensures that you are focused correctly.  just putting the AF spot on a number on a sloped ruler almost guarantees that it will focus differenly every time.
2.  It is very difficult to see tiny differences in focus sharpness, and you can misjudge the proper setting easily.
Other things to watch out for are proper alignment to a target.  If you are not perpendicular and level, thats going to give you some error.
One way to check to see if adjustment is reasonably achieved is to put the camera on a sturdy tripod, focus on the target, and then use live view and live AF to see if focus improves noticably.  Live Autofocus is slow, but almost always perfect.

Quite interesting! I think the next generation crop cameras, with the 7DII as the first to be released are gonna have an entire new generation sensors. I dont think Canon dare to release a pro crop camera with the worn out 18mp sensor. That is why it is taking so long.
Some people think that all 18 mp sensors are the same, even though they obviously are not.  If Nikon uses a 18mp semsor, will it be a old worn out Canon sensor?  What about the Nikon D4, its 16mp, must be a old worn out sensor from the Canon 1DS MK II?

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: AFMA - 5D3
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:38:28 PM »
my old Lens align is gathering dust.

I just sold mine, actually.
I have mine listed on Craigs locally, but have not had any interest so far.  I may just put it up on ebay.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Would switching to FF hurt my macro??
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:33:54 PM »
I preferred my 7D to my 5D MK II for Macro, but it was not enough to keep me from selling the 7D after getting my 5D MK III.  The 7D went virtually unused.

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