Messages

106

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: What is the 6d actually good at (*positive* fact list)?

« on: December 11, 2012, 12:39:37 PM »

All should check out Carnathan's ISO tests of 6D vs. 5D3.
The 6D actually slightly outperforms the 5D3 in higher ISO settings:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-6D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx

107

Contests / Re: Gura Gear Giveaway!

« on: December 07, 2012, 10:13:23 AM »

I want to win

108

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 23, 2012, 04:06:06 PM »

And one more thing, the first picture I linked could have been an epic keeper if I had only waited for the little warrior (tree) in front to get some sunlight.  Poor patience on my part.

I also should crop that into a more cinematic / pano aspect ratio.  3:2 doesn't serve such an interesting shot, IMHO.

- A

109

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 23, 2012, 04:02:35 PM »

Okay, here were was my experience from the trip.

1) Beautiful beautiful beautiful.  The GC is a gift to see and behold.

2) I used the 28mm prime (60%) and 70-200 (15%) a lot more than I thought I would.  The 24-70 got less use than I thought it would, perhaps the remaining 25%.  I didn't buy/rent the ultrawide, and I don't think I needed it.  Someone suggested to go pano on the tripod if I needed more width, and I only needed to do that 3-4 times.  Great tip.

3) Don't leave right at sunset.  The light immediately after sunset can ping pong off of clouds and do some great things.

4) ND grads are punishing to dial in when it's cold, windy and you are aching from leaning over a tripod setup for an extended period.  They also are hard to proof for correct placement, even at a 100% pixel playback on the 5d3's screen. Such a powerful tool needs a simpler implementation and verification, IMHO.  I'm sure I'll get better at using them, but that was the biggest fail of the trip for me.

5) I shot much more handheld than I thought I would.  The tripod only came out about a dozen times over the two days.

6) I brought the big stopper (10 stop darkener) and didn't use it on day one when I had great fluffy clouds.  Day two there wasn't a cloud in the sky.  So if you have the clouds, use it when you can.  :-P

7)  Simultaneous ND grad + panorama is the way to madness.  I'm only using ND grads on single shots until I get better at using them.

8 ) Though it's 101 photo stuff, don't use s--- filters.  I have B+W MRC UVs and CPLs for everything except my staple 77mm CPL (which was a mid-grade Hoya).  As it was my only 77mm CPL, I had to constantly switch it out from the 24-70 to the 70-200.  It unthreads, the two rings wiggle w.r.t. to each other, etc.  I was fed up with it.  [I just rectified that with a 77mm Kaesemann MRC CPL purchase, btw.]

9) Though I knew this would happen, the 24 end of the 24-70 and the 28 prime both demonstrated FOV-CPL-'pseudo-vignetting' from differing levels of sky darkness.  It goes away around 35mm and up from my experience.  I know you folks brought it up, and I have fought that for years with my old 10-22 EF-S lens.  But I did it anyway.  I just felt the sky would have been too bright if I didn't accept this tradeoff, and the CPL is 100x easier to use than the (more appropriate) ND grads.

10) A monstrous bull elk walked into the GC village behind my hotel, and in nearly complete darkness, I netted a proof-of-bigfoot level of usefulness shot of him at ISO 25,600 + handheld + fully open + IS on my 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II.  I saw details and colors in that shot that my naked eyes could not see.  Love my 5D3.   

More will hit me later, but I had a tremendous trip and learned even more about my love of photography in the process.  Would do it again in a heartbeat.

Thanks again for your copious tips and insights.

- A

110

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 23, 2012, 03:37:40 PM »

Just got back, team.  Nice tips.

I've attached a few decent ones, shown here.  Comments to follow.

- A

111

Lenses / Re: Need filter suggestions - Ordered Canon 100mm f2.8 L macro

« on: November 23, 2012, 03:29:29 PM »

I needed a new 77mm CPL and instead of the normal B+W MRC, I got the Kaesemann as the prices were shockingly the same.  I hope the 'sealing' doesn't make them more annoying to screw in or use, as I love my 58mm B+W MRC CPL. 

But it is rumored to be just that slight bit better than what I've been using, and it was the same price.  Why not give it a try?

- A

112

Lenses / Re: Need filter suggestions - Ordered Canon 100mm f2.8 L macro

« on: November 15, 2012, 01:03:16 AM »

This is a lifelong 'tastes great / less filling' debate topic.

My vote:  +1 on B+W UV filters, unless a CPL is needed (in which case I swap them).  Strongly recommend a CPL for macro, but less for color or exposure, and more for managing reflections in droplets of water, glare from leaves, etc.  You should have a CPL for that lens in general non-macro use as well.  (It's a fully functional 100 prime, right?)

My UV Rationale:

1) It's cheap lens insurance at zero IQ cost.  Filters protect the front element from damage.  Unless you are buying very cheap lenses, even pricey filters are cheaper to replace than lenses are to repair.

2) When air or a microfiber are not enough, I am far more comfortable cleaning filters with that ROR liquid than using that stuff on lens elements.

3) I don't like having to remember if the L lens I'm using has weather sealing that is filter-dependent or not, so they just all get filters.  Easy.

4) Hoods sit in my bag.  I have a 100% VF and have (I suppose) decent discipline with sun placement in the frame, and three of my lenses' hoods are nightmare to use with CPLs.  However, if I was using a hood, perhaps I'd shoot with naked lenses.

About the only time I have naked lens elements is when I use my Lee 4x6 ND grads (i.e. way less than 1% of the time).  That system requires adaptor rings -- a screw-in like a filter (but no glass on it) with a metal outrigger to receive the big frame to hold the rectangular ND grads.  As I don't like stacking filters (annoying for threading/unthreading reasons), if I go ND grad it's a sort-of-naked lens in that dust/water can touch the lens, but the 4x6 serves as a physical barrier for drops, impact, finger contact, etc.

- A

113

Lenses / Re: Which extender is best

« on: November 14, 2012, 04:00:05 PM »

FWIW I have the 1.4 Canon TC II that I use with my 70-200 F/2.8 IS II. Interestingly this combination is supposedly sharper on an APS-C body than the same lens with the new Mk III 1.4 TC, which I'm ready to believe 

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-70-200mm-f-2.8-L-IS-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=687

I believe Carnathan only has 1-3 copies of each lens, whereas a rental shop like LR has (in some cases) a dozen copies or so.  I wonder if there is significant copy to copy variation with Canon Mk III extenders...

(Paging Roger Cicala!)

- A

114

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 14, 2012, 02:16:28 PM »

Never shot the Grand Canyon but landscapes quite often.
So my thoughts by the numbers;

1, The 14mm is wide, very wide. The diffrence between it and the 16-35mm at 16 is very noticable. I would be renting and taking one of the following if I were going. 24mm f/1.4L, 24mm TSE or the Zeiss 21mm. If I could afford to rent one more I would rent the 14mm or the 16-35mm but only for the very widest shots. But I probably wouldn't even take the 14mm or 16mm, In stead of super wide I would plan on doing Pano's for the areas I couldn't cover.

5, HDR used lightly is not noticable. However it is best if you have a good set of Grad ND's. I am assuming you are talking 4x6. You can hand hold or manipulate the Grad's in odd positions to darken the bright sky. It doesn't have to be just horizontal. I have used mine at odd angles when taking pictures of mountain sides and such. You can be creative with the grad filters and stack to get what you need. I think they are a must have, as well as the CPL. But the best option isn't filters. The best option for landscape is always timing, unfortunatly on vacation we often do not have that luxury.

Have fun.

Yes on 4x6 (for the ND grads, the big stopper is 4X4 as it is frame filling).  Still don't know to use ND Grads with a CPL at the same time without filter stacking weirdness, rotating the ND without rotating the CPL, etc.  So I typically use ND grads or CPL, never both simultaneously.

I'm with you on rotating the grads to counter the sky, but with hard grads, I'm not sure how to use them against uneven (and bright) skylines.  I'll darken the tops of some rock peaks, right?  I thought uneven skyline + limited movement threat (leaves moving in the wide, walking people in the frame, etc.) would mean to opt for HDR instead of ND grads, but I will try both for sure.

The big stopper, on the other hand, seems fully in play for this trip.  Besides water long exposure work, it could be killer for stretching out a cloudy sky.  Just got it, and I am fired up to try it.

- A


I looked at the Zeiss 21, but I won't have a

115

Lenses / Re: Which extender is best

« on: November 14, 2012, 02:08:27 PM »

MARSU42,  I have similar setup.  I have the 50D and the 70-300L.  I have been tryng to decide on using the 70-300L with the Kenko for wildlife or purchase the 400mm 5.6.  Although I am not sure if there is any noticable difference in IQ using the Kenko extender versus the 4005.6 L by itself.

I've not shot those, but an L prime (even a modestly priced one like the 400 5.6) without an extender should significantly outperform a zoom with an extender, right?

Right. I think the 70-300L rates as "very good" (maybe not "excellent" like the more expensive/heavier/larger 70-200L or even the "stellar" 200L), and with the extender it is just "good". The 400/5.6L should not only be significantly sharper, but the af @f8 with the extender does hunt sometimes if only using one af point on my 60d - so for that reason alone it's better to get the prime. The tc solution for the zoom is just convenience and some shots.

Excellent point. 

'Effective' fully open apertures with extenders not only slow AF in general due to a smaller effective aperture (as I said before), but as Marsu42 aptly points out, that smaller aperture also greatly limits what AF points you can use.  Depending on your body + lens + extender choice, your AF will hunt longer before locking on.

116

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 14, 2012, 01:49:49 PM »

Hello again.

For star trails I don't use a laptop. I just set it to Bulb use a cable release and set it to lock. Then I sit back and relax and come back between 30mins to an hour later. But if others are telling you to use a laptop I would get more info on that. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. I've always been happy with my star trails though *shrug.

A proper HDR, I just meant that I've seen people use the actual Bracket mode to get three images to five images but sometimes you need more depending on. I think its easier to do it by manually and tweak the settings for each of the multiple images being used.

So what did you ever decide to do with the wide angle situation? Are you going 16-35? 17-40 or 14 prime? Very interested in knowing what your findings and choice will end up being.

Do you plan to do any birding or other wildlife photography while you're at the GC? I've been dying to get a 300mm F/2.8, I just can't afford the financial hit right now.

I read a suggestion for Sedona. I loved it there, beautiful sunsets. I wish I had more time, hopefully you take some amazing photos and share with us.

And thanks for liking my pics! I should have been more precise. The one of the castle in Madrid was done with a Grad ND and the other two were HDRs. Just wanted to show both could work but forgot to write that in.

Birding/wildlife photography is a virus that I, thankfully, have never contracted.      

Just kidding.  For me -- I can't say that enough -- big glass, it's cost/weight/trouble/etc. is not worth the high you get from the chance of shooting things that are far away.  The give to get just isn't there for me.

See other post.  Looks like 17-40 for this trip.  If my 10-22 crop experience is any indication, I only used the 16-22 end of that lens (i.e. 25-35mm FF equivalent) as the 10-16 side was comically distorted (not from the quality of the glass, but from the lens's perspective).  So I may not like the look of the 17 end of the 17-40, but the 20-24 region (as close to 24 as that seems) may be where I use it.  We'll see.  I must admit that since I went to FF my 24-70 has 99% of the time been wide enough for my needs...

...but I've never shot the Grand Canyon. 

- A

117

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 14, 2012, 01:43:13 PM »

@DianeK and others that have been there:

One more thing comes to mind.  Canyons inherently have shade challenges.  The best light at sunup / sundown will come part and parcel with very large shaded areas.  Is there any credence to choosing to use more unfriendly overhead/midday light to minimize the massive dynamic challenges the shadows will bring?

That's a really broad composition question, and I appreciate it depends on what you are trying to accomplish.  But I'd like your thoughts on how to pick your exposure battles on sun vs. shade.

- A

118

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 14, 2012, 01:36:54 PM »

Hi,

we travelled to the southrim of the Grand Canyon in May this year. It was amazing!

We stayed 2 nights at Mather Campground. We also hiked the South Kaibab trail until Skeleton Point and back.

My favorites beside the hike was the sunset from Hopi Point and the sunrise from Yaki Point. Also the view from the Desert Watchtower is great. You can do the Watchtower when you leave the park to the East.

Camerawise I brought the 5D2 along with the 17-40L and the 70-200 4L IS.

You definitely need the 17mm on FF for the Canyon!!!
Also the 70-200 @ 200 was great in the evening hours, just before sunset.

On more recommendation for the Antelope Canyon:
Go there during noon if you can. We did the lower Antelope Canyon at 10 a.m. which was great and the upper Antelope Canyon unfortunately at 1 p.m. It was dark as night down there!

Great tip on Antelope Canyon.  I think I will limit this trip to just the GC and Sedona for time reasons, but Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley will definitely make the next trip (along with Bryce and Zion if I can).

That does it, I've heard too much about needing ultrawide -- looks like it's time to look at the 17-40 for rent.  The 16-35 II is out as it's an 82 diameter, which burns me for filters and the Lee 4x4 adaptor ring (which LensRentals.com doesn't carry, btw).  The 17-40 has a 77 dia which plays nicely in my bag, and I'm told it's a solid performer when stopped down (which I clearly will do).

Since I'm shooting liveview for most of this, I thought of renting some ultrawide Zeiss hotness, but all have odd diameters as well.  Too much trouble for a one off on such short notice, I think.

- A

119

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 14, 2012, 01:26:08 PM »

First image is Lipan Point, second is Navajo Point

Nice shots.  I've noticed a blue shift like yours on the distant horizon mountains in my photos as well. It is certainly what my eyes see, so these shots are well rendered.

Can you walk me through what causes that blue cast (physically, that is)?  I'm guessing it's diffraction of light through so much air (perhaps that's nonsense), but from a photog perspective, is that something you wish to capture, wish to filter out, wish to shift to true black shadows, etc.?  What are the composition and post-processing considerations for this?   Would I see a similar cast if I went with the longer tele?

Just curious.

- A

120

Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon

« on: November 14, 2012, 01:19:00 PM »

1. Check to see if the South Rim is still open.  It is getting late in the year; it could already be snowed in.

2. Sedona is beautiful and the people are really friendly.  I love going there.  The main street can be very photogenic.  There is a nifty camera store in town, nearby is Oaxaca, is a nice mexican restaurant.  Note that the economy is not great in the area, so you can get excellent deals on lodging.  Pull up Google maps; you'll find a turnout south of town at 34.82335 N/-111.77610 W.  Look due east from there and you'll see a pair of spires (locally called the sisters).  If you get lucky, you can catch the moon rising between them.  It's a spectacular shot.

3. It is well worth the drive up Highway 89A to the top of Oak Creek Canyon (straight out of town heading north, can't miss it).  There are numerous places to stop and take interesting photos at this time of year, and when you get to the top there is a parking area/scenic lookout where the local Indians set up tables and sell beautiful hand made jewelry and other things.

4. Pack a jacket, hat, and sunglasses.  While it may be shirtsleeve down in Sedona, it may well be below freezing at the top of the canyon.  And the higher in elevation you go, the stronger the UV and the greater the risk of sunburn (especially in winter).

5. If you are driving your own car (as opposed to a rental), make certain the cooling system and brakes are in top notch condition.  Even at this time of year your can can overheat driving up the canyon, and the brakes take a beating driving down.

6. I hear that the glass horseshoe out over the Grand Canyon is spectacular, but I haven't been there yet.

7. If they are still operating (there were some issues a number of years ago), there are scenic flights over the GC.  Worth the price if the weather is really clear (it should be this time of year).

8. At the GC you will find plenty of flat horizons for the grad filter (I wish I had had one of those years ago).

9. I would forget the flash; seek maximum fulfillment with the high ISO capability of the 5D3.

10. If you feel the need for some additional weight, bring water bottles.  Gallon jugs are a good idea (9 pounds each, and you can drink them if the car breaks down and use them if you need water for the radiator).

I'll leave lens recommendations to others.

Thanks for the heads up.  Checked into the South Rim on the national parks website -- it's a 365 day a year open sort of place, though I may not get to all of the rim's little trails.  It's the north rim that closes down in October. 

Just had a brake job on the car.  Should be fine.  Great tip.

Since I'm taking my own car, I will pack for nuclear winter as far as clothes go.  It's 60s in Sedona (one of those great regions where the weather rarely changes, I'm told), but yes, it will be somewhat cold but very windy at the rim.  I will bring the appropriate layers, hats, sunscreen, etc.  Again, great tip.

Wow.  Sedona is 15 degrees warmer than Flagstaff, which is only 30 miles away.  GC Village will be in the 50s by day but teens by night.  Will plan accordingly.

Any thoughts on cold weather shooting?  I know 15 F / -10 C is not terribly cold, but should I take any precautions regarding condensation in the lens?  I will be bringing far too much glass to ziplock bag everything prior to coming to room temp.  The padded camera bag must insulate the non-used lens to some degree, right?  What are your thoughts?

Great ideas for Sedona, thanks!  I also must hit the Frank Lloyd Wright church, it looks outrageously interesting to shoot.

- A