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Messages - RustyTheGeek

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391
Canon General / Re: Are Metal Mounts Better Than Plastic?
« on: January 05, 2014, 02:18:30 PM »
Plastic comes in many forms and grades... If it is the right material for the job, then it is the right material.... In some cases, plastic is superior to metal, in other places it is inferior.

You can not treat all plastics the same. Just like tin is different from titanium, so are the plastic parts of your lens different from a child's sippy cup.

I think it would be cool to see a Canon L lens made from a child's sippy cup.  (Complete with the bright colors!)  It would be great for shooting child portraits.  And when not mounted to the camera, it could double as a pacifier for toddlers.   :D

392
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS 5D Mark III & Third Party Batteries
« on: January 04, 2014, 06:52:17 PM »
It has been entertaining reading the back and forth this topic has generated.  There are many ways to look at it and everyone has their opinion and what works for them.

Whatever one thinks or how it affects them, I think we can all agree that this is something we can do without.

The firmware change does less to help and more to hinder our ability to do what we all paid $3000+ to do - use our camera.  With that in mind, why don't we all simply agree that Canon needs to stay the hell out of accessory control through firmware and just concentrate on improving the camera itself.  I don't recall anyone complaining over the years that Canon should do more to control batteries through firmware.

393
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: The unbreakable is broken.
« on: December 31, 2013, 03:31:31 PM »
If I were you, I would be more concerned with all the ISO noise in the image!  LOL!  :P

394
Software & Accessories / Re: RLPhotos Computer upgrade 2013
« on: December 27, 2013, 02:00:07 PM »
I'm a bit late to this thread but I'd like to comment on a few things...  (RAID Array Strategy and Backups)

1st - RLPhoto - great machine.  However, RAID5 is outdated and risky.  Either go RAID6 or change things and use multiple RAID1 volumes.  RAID5 is less reliable and difficult to recover in the event of a failure, esp if you are not using an enterprise class controller.  I didn't see a RAID controller listed and I hope to God you are not putting a RAID5 array on a cheap single chip non-cache, non-battery (possibly motherboard) controller!  It's better and easier to have multiple volumes on separate disks/arrays instead of one large volume on one array.  When disks fail, you won't lose access to everything, only part of your data.  For instance, I have 3 - 2TB RAID1 Mirrors, one for older stuff (archive), one for current stuff before POST and a 3rd for recent stuff after POST.  I also have a few single internal drives that act as synchronized backups to the RAID volumes.  Oh, and you should also have hot spares installed along with at least a couple of spare identical drives on the shelf to maintain drive consistency when you have to replace one later.  And finally, how do you plan to back up a 10TB volume?  More important, how do you plan to restore it?  Do you know how and have you done it yet to be sure it works?  It is extremely tedious, stressful and time consuming to restore 10TB of data or a 10TB volume all at once.  In fact, you really need another RAID array 10TB volume to back it up to.  Hence the reason why I create multiple 2TB volumes as I need them.  The archive volume for instance doesn't need to be backed up very often since it rarely changes.

2nd - JPAZ - I certainly hope you meant that you have a RAID1 (mirror) because if you really have a RAID0 array, you are NOT PROTECTED from a drive failure.  RAID0 IS NOT A MIRROR ARRAY.  There is NO REDUNDANCY.  If one drive fails, you lose the entire volume, regardless of which physical disk the data is stored on.

3rd - dgatwood - I think there is nothing wrong with using a RAID Array but unfortunately most people do not really understand RAID so they do not plan, implement or maintain it correctly.  Doing RAID well is not easy, cheap or simple.  It is often misunderstood.  I think using RAID is a good idea for adding some physical drive failure insurance, provided it is done right with the proper respect for the technology.  But when things fail, most people are not equipped to handle the problem or did not use the right technology and at that point would have been better off staying with a simpler individual drive design.  It's the restore/recovery phase of RAID that tests the design limits and is usually the hardest, most stressful part, even with a good backup in place.


395
Software & Accessories / Re: Black-rapid failure!
« on: December 27, 2013, 01:20:49 PM »
I've owned and enjoyed several BR straps along with other variations from other manufacturers for many years.  But I treat everything the same way, with an assumption that if it can fail, it eventually will.  Nothing is perfect.  I try to maintain vigilance on checking the connection points often.  If I were to go snowboarding with my 5D3, I would assume more risk of failure and have a backup strap connected.  I would also assume that the heavy rig would probably fly up and hit me in the face at some point.  Hence, I thought the same thing as neuro - chest harness.  'Nuff said on that.

I've experienced other types of failures/issues a couple of times that are a byproduct of all of the side hanging hip hugging strap systems.  These failures have to do with where some lenses rub on your side.  When they rub and press against your hip, some lenses, the 70-200 f/2.8 in my case, end up with the control switches on the side being manipulated.  I'll go to take a shot and realize the AF switch is changed to MF, etc.  D'Oh!

Worse, once or twice I have had a large lens unlock from the body and almost fall completely off because I was using a teleconverter and the release lever for the TC sticks out on the side where it hangs against my hip.  As the camera hung against my hip, things eventually pushed and rotated just enough to loosen the lens and I noticed it just before it rotated enough to separate!  Whew!  So I watch that now as well.

My solutions... I simply put some gaffer tape over the switches on the lens with a tab to pull it back if I need to change one.  I put a bit of gaffer tape around some of the base of the lens where it contacts the camera body to prevent it from rotating if the TC release gets pushed.  And finally, I adjust the strap a bit if I notice that it is hanging in such a way as to allow the TC release to be pressed with the pants I'm wearing or whatever.

396
Business of Photography/Videography / Re: "Pro" mythbusting
« on: December 25, 2013, 07:39:33 PM »
Pro┬┤s are concerned about making money, amateurs are concerned about their gear ...

I think this somewhat inaccurate.  Everyone is concerned about their gear.  Pros just exercise more restraint in the gear they decide to buy to keep expenses under control.

In my mind, not only does 'pro' mean that one makes money and/or a living with their photography, it also means they have a more mature and bottom-line + result driven attitude about their work.  A pro makes images first and money second when they are lucky and otherwise just has to make money.  However, in every case, regardless of the fun factor, the money is the result of the image not the other way around.  And the pro makes sacrifices to his enjoyment and fulfillment to pay the bills.  It's not all fun and art.  Sometimes it's boring crap that pays.

Being a pro also means they do whatever it takes to get the shot and they don't give up until they do regardless of discomfort, effort or sacrifice.  A pro adheres to a high standard and goes the extra mile to achieve that standard because if they don't, their reputation will suffer and a pro's reputation is everything.  Without a good reputation, they will eventually be an amateur because no one will hire (pay) them for their poor low quality (lazy) work.

I look at some of the work of famous pros (McNally, Sartore, Adams, Salgado, et al.) and that it's evident that they make/made big sacrifices to achieve amazing images that most others miss.  They travel farther, get up earlier and stay longer.  They emerge from the field dirty, battered, bruised or just plain dead tired.  It's easy to click the shutter.  It's hard to wait 6, 12, 24, 48 hours to click the shutter and still miss the shot because the light wasn't right or whatever and have to wait more.

397
Business of Photography/Videography / Re: Leaving
« on: December 25, 2013, 07:15:53 PM »
Does the fact that it's Dec 25th today have anything to do with it?  Maybe the OP is sad and not having a good day.

Honestly, if someone can't handle the comparatively benign banter that occurs on this forum, what chance do they have to survive most other forums around the Internet?

I mean... reallyCanonRumors is driving someone away?   ???

I've known people with this attitude before.  Somehow they think that the world is better with them in it and if they threaten to remove themselves, people will flock to beg and plead that they stay.  Except in reality, no one does and they are left to their own imagination to feel the immense need that they expect others to express. 

In other words, take your toys and go home (don't let the mirror hit you in the lens...) and we'll stay here in the CR playground and keep playing.  Enjoy your life as much as you can and be healthy, wealthy and wise.  No hard feelings here but not much sorrow either.  Live long and prosper.   :D

398
Lighting / Re: Studio light for model and products
« on: December 22, 2013, 10:42:21 PM »
I tromp around outside to shoot pictures and get my stuff dirty.  I don't shoot portraits much.  But when I do, I borrow AB800 units from a friend that bought a couple Buff kits with modifiers, stands and everything.  They work great, simple and easy to use and durable too.  If budget allows, get the Einsteins.  If not, the AB800s are great too.  Get some trigger cables and some Yougnuo wireless triggers and start learning how to use it all.  Don't spend too long sweating what to buy, you can't really go wrong with the Buff stuff.  As RLPHoto said, they work well and don't change color or intensity so your post work will be easier.

You won't really know what you want until you dive in and start using it all.  Just get some experience with something and then tweak it as you go.  Don't over think it.  Keep it simple.

Buy a kit, get some reflectors, a background and get to work making some money.  Then see what tweaks you need and keep on going.  Refine your technique.  Hone your craft.  It's your knowledge and talent that is making the pictures, not some fancy lights.

No one will know what kind of lights you have, they'll just see pictures that are well exposed and visually appealing.  Only photographers analyze pictures to determine how the lighting was used.  Most folks just look at the pictures to see what they need to see and move on.  Have fun with it!

399
Lenses / Re: Best lightweight crop lens for SL1 & hiking
« on: December 21, 2013, 03:00:36 PM »
Thanks bholliman!  I'd love to hear your thoughts on the SL1 after you've used it.  I considered the M with an adapter.  But the M and the adapter is about the same weight as the SL1 and probably close to the same size.  And I was concerned that it would be awkward to use since it's sort of a live view type of thing instead of a viewfinder thing that I can tuck in close and hold still, etc.  It's not exactly cheap for what it is, esp after adding the cost of the adapter.  But hey, if it's a super item for the purpose, one never knows!!...

400
Lenses / Re: Best lightweight crop lens for SL1 & hiking
« on: December 20, 2013, 06:17:57 PM »
Also, i highly recomend something like the capture camera clip (lots of other similar systems) for hiking with a DSLR. Clip it to your pack strap and your DSLR is always at the ready. If you take a lens that has wildlife reach (18-270), its the difference between getting that bear photo or not
OK preppyak, the capture camera clip is pretty cool.  I'm a sucker for that kind of stuff so thanks for luring me into buying more of it!   ;)  It is similar to the cotton carrier for a pack strap.  Have you used the cotton carrier pack strap item and if so (hope so) how does it compare?

If I use the CCC or other pack strap type mount, I need to find a simple and fairly workable way to cover the camera without hampering use.  Something simple to help keep the dust, light rain and sun off of the camera.  Kind of like a ripstop nylon little parachute or something that would just hang over it while it's on the strap.  Maybe something like a shower cap that is elastic and waterproof that would go over it easy and come off easy.

401
Lenses / Re: Best lightweight crop lens for SL1 & hiking
« on: December 20, 2013, 05:30:16 PM »
Thanks again, dcm!  Yeah, we're on the same wavelength.  I like the little case you mention.  I've had some similar in the past.  I could almost see me doing that.  One problem with the S95 is that if it somehow powers up in that case, it's toast.  I already had to send it in for repair shortly after I bought it because it somehow got powered on in the soft case I use and it damaged the zoom mechanism.   :-[  And dust in Philmont is essentially like flour.  We're talking Cimaron, New Mexico.

Anyway, I agree, 18mm on a crop is just not wide enough.  Hence the temptation to take the 10-22.  However, the EF 15mm FishEye I have is much smaller and lighter than the 8-15 L.  My biggest problem with taking any extra lenses is the space it takes and keeping up with it.  Just taking a DSLR is already burning up a lot of pack space and weight that is normally used for food, shared load items, etc.  Also, an extra lens means an extra case for said lens.

Fortunately, being an adult on a scout trek normally means the scouts carry everything except the adult food, etc but you always need to be ready to take on extra weight if needed.

Since the Tamron 18-270 lens is so versatile, it seems like a given that it should go.  However, the 10-22 might actually get used more when in close quarters during camp activities and I shoot with my 16-35 on FF a LOT.  Those two lenses would complement each other well except for low light but I think IS and being asleep most of the low light times would solve that.  Yes, the 15mm Fish is dramatic and fun to use but would probably be a little redundant if I took the 10-22.

402
Lenses / Re: Best lightweight crop lens for SL1 & hiking
« on: December 20, 2013, 02:59:06 PM »
Thanks for all the feedback so far!  Sorry for the length here.  It got a little longer than I realized.   :P

dcm - What a great and well crafted reply!  You are thinking along the same lines as I am.  That's why I tossed out this thread, to get feedback from others.  Other than an old 18-55 kit lens and a 10-22, I don't own any EF-S lenses either.  However, I do own the Tamron 18-270 and so far, that is my running favorite.  My biggest concern is the IQ but regardless, it's still better than the D20 on IQ overall.  The 18-270 is what kept me from buying the 18-55 STM kit lens even though I think that is a good lens for the SL1 and lightweight, etc.  I could still get it later though.

I want to carry a DSLR is to get better wide shots in camps, RAW images that can be pushed more in post and have better flash or exposure controls.  The lenses other than the 40 pancake that I have considered are the EF-S 10-22 and the EF 15mm Fisheye.  That is such a fun lens but I'm wondering how much I would really use it for the price in weight.  In general, I am more of a wide lens junkie than a telephoto shooter.  If I took the 18-270 and still decided to take a 2nd lens, it would probably be an ultrawide lens which is why I purchased the 10-22 in the first place before the 2012 trek.  I suspect that I would rarely change the lens while on the hike so it might just be a waste of weight.  But then, you never know!!  LOL!  It cracks me up how long I've done this and still struggle with these kinds of decisions.  But I guess eventually one just has to draw the line and resolve to 'keep it simple' (KISS).  That's what I did in 2012 when I decided to just take the D20 and nothing else and I survived but this time I am trying to push myself to take it up a notch.

Aside from weight, a big concern and challenge when taking anything on a hike is (for me) the logistics. Using up room in the pack and then having to manage the stuff all the time.  It's there, it's in the way, it has to be moved around, it takes up space and it displaces something else.  It has to be organized along with the rest of the stuff.  It has to be cared for and protected.  So I'm weighing the aspects of either just having a neoprene cover on the camera in a ziplock inside the pack or having a ThinkTank or other decent but fairly lightweight bag outside the pack hanging on the straps in front with carabiners and stretch cords or something.

Last time, I used a small super strong magnet on the P&S and I could easily yank it off my strap, take a picture and then *click* it back on the strap without even looking.  Worked like a charm.  I can't do something that easy with the SL1 unfortunately.

I have an S95 but it's pretty fragile and not very tolerant of dirt.  I think it would likely die on day 2 or 3 from the dust alone.  I got a good deal on the SL1 and I am almost resigning it to be a potential throw away if it gets damaged or super dirty on the trip.  I've got an old Rebel XT that I have had in mud, dirt and all kinds of crap and it's still going.  It's just too old though.

Good point on batteries.  On the last trek, I got lucky with the batteries.  I barely made it through!  I will definitely take plenty of batteries.  It appears the batteries are smaller for the SL1.

Keep in mind that I have several months of prep hikes (shakedowns) to try things out and test different scenarios with the DSLR and P&S. 

If anyone wants to see some pics from the last trek in 2012 that I shot with the D20, here they are...

http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/718r  -  (The actual 10 day trek at Philmont is the last gallery.)

403
Software & Accessories / Re: How many cards?
« on: December 20, 2013, 01:57:33 PM »
I have a dozen or so 32gb cf cards and maybe 8 32gb 45mb/s SD cards
If I only had 2 or 3 cards I'd have a nervous breakdown
I have to say that I'm the same way.  It depends on how much you shoot and how disciplined you are with offloading your images to the computer.  But I shoot so much over the year that I would go nuts if I had to do that with only two or three cards.  I like to keep images on the card until I've had a chance to take the images all the way to final JPG exports and uploads to my online site.  Then there are several copies and I can easily format the media they started out on from the camera and know the images are safe.  So I also have lots of CF and SD cards that I use often.  YOU CAN'T HAVE TOO MUCH MEMORY!

Avoid potential loss in camera or in the field.  Depending on the number of images I am shooting over the course of a day, weekend or week, I use multiple smaller capacity cards instead of a single large media.  This way, I have something like two media cards per day so if one media were to get corrupted, lost or stolen, I would at least still have half the images.  Imagine if I shot a whole weekend on one media card and lost that single card.  Poof!  Everything is lost.  Where if I were changing cards during the shoots, I would still have maybe 3/4 of the weekend's images in my possession.

Also, when buying cards, watch out for counterfeit cards.  Download some of the verification software and test your cards.  If it's too cheap to be true, it's probably a fake card.

http://sosfakeflash.wordpress.com/
 
http://flashfakecentral.wordpress.com/
 
http://www.passmark.com/support/bit_fake_USB_detection.htm
 

404
Lenses / Re: Best lightweight crop lens for SL1 & hiking
« on: December 19, 2013, 03:13:02 PM »
I don't mind other comments about how some of you guys manage your photography while hiking.  Which cameras you like or how you hang/attach/pack/carry or otherwise manage them.  No fair saying you just take your wife or girlfriend!   ;D

Here is one quick post I found on the web that isn't too bad.  Not sure if I want to add that much weight just for a bag since I don't require 100% access all the time if I take the D20.  The D20 is lighter, more convenient on the pack strap, durable and has the extra advantage of being a backup camera if something happens.

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=15315

405
Lenses / Re: Best lightweight crop lens for SL1 & hiking
« on: December 19, 2013, 03:06:56 PM »
What about the 40mm F2.8 STM? Smaller than that is almost not possible :-)
Thanks janmzxim.  I do have that lens and it might go as a 2nd lens but that FL isn't my favorite and will be a bit limiting for me as the ONLY lens for 10 days.  (40mm = 64mm on crop.)

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