I know it's not on your list of options ( 50/1.4 or 40/2.8 ) but I agree with CharlieB. Give the 28/1.8 USM a thought. That was my first prime and likely a lot more versatile on the crop camera.
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I never really noticed anything for the short while I had a 6D but I immediately noticed this 5D3 flashes a dim red in the entire viewfinder from the reflections when it confirms in low light. Kinda pointless to make an issue out of it since it doesn't affect anything picture wise.
Confirmed on my 6D.
Not too concerned. It's more of a minor annoyance.
Now that 604FF pointed it out I'm going to notice it every time though
The focusing is a bit slower than the L lenses I've used (24-105, 135, 17-40, rented 14L, 24-70L v1, 70-200 2.8 IS v2). Not bad really, but not snappy like I'm used to. I shot most of the night in AI-Servo, since they were dancing and moving all around. As I said the lighting was quite challenging, but even when the AF points I was using was over the subject in decent lighting, I always felt like I had to wait a second or two for the camera to lock focus and start tracking. Quite annoying actually, and nothing something I'm used to. Part of it may have been, as stated above, my fingers rested right on the focusing ring so I may have confused it.
Leaving aside the IQ, if I can't figure out the AF in this kind of lower light, I might have to not get this lens, which would make me sad as this is exactly the environment I'd use this in. I'll try using my 24-105 briefly in the same lighting conditions to see if it shows similar hesitation, and if so it's the camera/lighting, and not the lens and I'll have to test out in other dim lighting conditions.
Maybe someone can prove me wrong but I'm not aware of a single case ever with a modern HDD where data has ever been recovered by anyone if the actual data has been overwritten even once.
I just did some research and you seem to be correct - on modern disks (like 10+ years modern :-)) overwritten data list lost since the writing tech has changed so much since the good ol' days. If there is any possibility, it is well out of reach of private citizens and you have to ask your trusty nsa or equivalent for help.
Thanks Rusty & Scotty for the info, Rusty I'm the same ,center point & one shot, always have been. I have owned AF cameras from when they first appeared & that is the only way I find I am sure I have focused on the point I want. Great idea to hire one to see if it works for me, well worth the peace of mind. After 25 years of shooting weddings I am always reluctant to change my system unless it absolutely going to make life easier or provide a better result. I have 3x orig 5d bodies & never had a problem & shoot with 24-105 lenses, which I love for simplicity, used to have lots of primes & F5 bodies ext but really have concerns with newer bodies having so many short falls for regular tasks & purchasing now & 6 months later the short falls have been addressed in an updated model. I just want a body that does the expected tasks & confident fast focusing is one of those in reception low light.Onloc I am very keen to view images on a larger screen in harsh light & see if fill flash has done its job. Think I will hire a body & have a play, thanks again,cheers PeteGlad I could help. I'm rushing out now but my 6D just arrived and I gave it a quick 20 minutes. It's a little simpler to use than the 5D3 and smaller body feel/grip aside, works a little more like the 5D Classic. Be aware that it warns and punishes you with no battery status info if you aren't using a genuine Canon battery. Joy. Still, coming from the 5D Classic myself, you might want to rent the 6D first to see what you think, then try the 5D3. Just a thought. You'll need some new UHS-1 SD cards however to get the best write speeds, otherwise any SD card will work.
+1000 = Big Ditto! I use high quality B&W and Hoya HD thin ring filters for all of my lenses.Even on my Expensive L Primes, I use the Top of the line B&W MRC Nano XS-Pro UV filters. Its simply superb.
I don't use them much myself ... but I know many do and swear by it. Is this because you feel there is no perceptible change whatsoever in high-performing lenses or you have made your peace with the potential trade off for possible protection? And, I did say "potential" trade-off.
I want to protect my front element from cleaning, scratching, chemicals, abrasives, small meteorites from space or anything else from touching it. A UV filter already saved my 24L II once and will continue to use them.
I cannot distinguish IQ loss from the filter, B&ws are that good.