April 16, 2014, 07:40:34 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Schruminator

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
I think it is worth posting if for no other reason than they are charging for the repairs. If it was a "Oh, you sent it in for X, but we also tidied up Y for no charge", I could appreciate that.

Charging for design flaws is another issue though.


My math might be wrong but a photo every 15 minutes for a month is 2880. ;-)

Otherwise thank you very much for the links and comments.

Also thanks to the others for the suggestions. Ill look into the gopro, and will be doing some testing before I actually break earth.

Good call! For some reason I left the 15 minutes in there when I punched it into the calculator. You know, off by a factor of 15. Close enough for gov't work ;)

The lighting triggers are usually a photocell of some sort (think about the light fixture over your garage) hooked up to a microcontroller or something to read the light levels. This controller then is hooked up to a transistor or a relay to trigger the camera. There are circuits you can make without the microcontroller, but it takes a bit more work to be honest.

Regardless, back to the original question: I'm not sure if a cored remote shutter release wired to two cameras will work. If so, splice your wire, hook it up and you're set (MF though, AF will delay things as the camera tries to focus). If that doesn't work, I'd look at using a two pole (or "double throw") relay. Basically it's one relay that has two independent outputs. It should trigger the cameras at the same time while keeping them electrically separate from each other (ie no touching of spliced wires). You'll need something to trigger the relay, but that can be as simple as a 9V battery and your thumb if you don't need super precise timing.

I use 1 double throw relay to control 2 flashes to fire at the same time (and they are muuuch faster than a camera shutter) and it works great. The link below is a picture I took with this set up. 2 flashes almost directly to the right and to the left of the wine glass in a darkened room.


You do realize that every 15 minutes for a month is 43,200 photos, right? Multiply that by 3 cameras and you're over 125,000 photos. Even will relattively small file sizes, that's still a lot of space you'll need to store things.

Obviously if you take a picture every 30 minutes (instead of 15) you can halve that. With no construction going on at night you could make a circuit to stop taking pictures after dark (plus the pictures at night will probably turn out poorly)-- I'd look at incorporating an Arduino or a similar microcontroller to control things.

Finally, I pulled up a couple of articles that I glanced at a long time ago. I don't know if they will be of much help, but they might get you pointed in the right direction.


FTb-n that's a pretty slick set up you have there, I may have to steal the idea!

I have the PeakDesign Capture Clip (the model before their current one-- mine doesn't have a female thread to screw the whole assembly onto a tripod or whatever it is that the latest one does).

All in all, I love it. It's great when you have a back pack for mounting your camera on the should strap-- which works well for me since I love hiking. For a heavier lens (5D3 + 70-200 2.8) I do need to tighten up my belt if I'm not using my backpack as it will try to pull my pants down, and with the clip in the vertical position it does dig in a bit. I haven't tried their pad (or FTb-n's idea above), but if the pad works as advertised, I would recommend it for heavier lenses if you're using your belt. If you're using a backpack shoulder strap, heavier lenses still work pretty darn well.

Anywho, long story short (too late?) it works well, I wish it cost less so I could buy another, but overall I'm happy with it. The plate is basically permanently attached to the bottom of my camera and the clip is either on my belt or backpack whenever I am out shooting. I haven't seen a reason to look into any other system since I picked the Capture Clip up. It securely holds the camera out of the way when you don't need it and it's easy to grab the camera when you do.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Dual CF or Combo memory slots?
« on: January 02, 2014, 05:58:14 PM »
I personally like the set up for previewing and culling images.

I use the SD for low res .jpg's and the CF for the full sized RAW images. This way I can quickly sort through the .jpg's and figure out which pictures are worth going back and editing and which ones can be tossed without having to open up the RAW files (which takes a second or two longer... but multiple that by 300 images and the savings adds up).


CPS Loaners. With Gold, you can try out a body or lens for a little over a week for free. I think any model, one time. Free shipping to you (you pay the shipping back). I think with gold, shipping is free 1 way for everything.

I signed up when I needed a repair and it paid for itself.

Ah, I forgot about the loaners-- that might be fun. It's too bad I'm not closer to one of their centers so I could skip out on the shipping!

Are there any other benefits of joining CPS? That is, none of my gear has needed repairs and while cleaning is free a couple of times a year, shipping is not (if I recall)-- so it pretty much cancels out on my end.

So, besides a fancy neck strap, is there anything else an amateur photog like me is forgetting? I've read through the list, but I didn't feel like anything jumped out at me.

EOS Bodies / Re: EOS 5D Mark III & Third Party Batteries
« on: December 12, 2013, 10:54:34 AM »
In my 7D and 5DIII I've used a number of 3rd party batteries without any issues. I had one that refused to charge after a year or so-- but up until then it worked great-- and for something like $10 I can't complain.

One thing I have noticed on my 5DIII is that the camera pops up a message saying there are "communication errors" (or something similar) when I pop in my 3rd party battery and the battery meter is not functional. But later during the shoot I'll notice that the battery meter is working just fine and is accurately reading the battery. I'm not sure if it is just my camera or what, but it's a pretty minor annoyance I can deal with for saving $70 a battery.

PowerShot / Re: Intervalometer Question
« on: October 28, 2013, 01:25:22 PM »
Cool, I hope it works out well for you!

PowerShot / Re: Intervalometer Question
« on: October 27, 2013, 03:21:25 PM »
I don't have the G15, but if it has a Bulb mode and a spot to plug in an intervalmeter, then I'd be nearly certain you can use it to go longer than 15 seconds. I know on my old Rebel xTi, the maximum was 30 seconds, but when I switched to Bulb mode and plugged in an intervalmeter there was no limit-- only how long my batteries would last :) . One way to check would be to switch to bulb mode and hold down the shutter button for 20 or 30 seconds. If that works just fine, then an intervalmeter will definitely work.

Also, it may be worth checking out CHDK (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK) depending what features you're looking for. It's roughly comparable to a lot of the features that Magic Lantern puts in the DSLR's, only CHDK is for Point and Shoots.

Lenses / Re: why would anyone scratch off the red ring of an L lens?
« on: October 24, 2013, 02:39:03 AM »
Glad to hear that it can be super glued back on. I was thinking of doing the same but was worried about the chemical reaction on the lens body. But based on brad-man's experience, I'll give 'er a try.

Just be careful, a little glue goes a long ways. On my 24-105 (fell off for no reason) I did this before I sold it and initially the focus ring got glued too! Luckily I barely used any glue and it spun with a little bit of force. After that, it worked just fine and you couldn't tell a difference from normal, but had I been a bit more generous on the glue I may have glued the focus ring permanently in place...

Software & Accessories / Re: Weye Feye or CamRanger?
« on: October 14, 2013, 04:23:20 AM »
The only problem I've had with Weye Feye is that they were blatantly padding their Amazon reviews and posting low reviews (2/5 or 3/5 stars) for CamRanger stating that Weye Feye was so much better. Best Part? These reviews were posted a few weeks before Weye Feye was ever released.

With that history, and noting the guy above with a pro-Weye Feye post has only 1 post to his name, I'd take things with a grain of salt until some actual user reviews surface.

Otherwise, for the record, I've never used either-- I just wanted to post a PSA ;)

IPS is the way to go. Also, if the monitor is over 24" in size, I'd really recommend a resolution greater than 1920 x 1080. Technically 1920 x 1080 is still "HD", but at 27" or 30" that's really stretching the pixels.  2560 x 1440 will be much crisper at that size.

Lighting / Re: Long exposure Portrait with second curtain Flash - Advice.
« on: October 08, 2013, 09:40:39 AM »
To me it looks like the ambient/city lights are shining through her (I see some lit up windows that are clearly on top of her head).

Sort of along the lines as the other guys, it looks like she's moved at some point during the exposure. Basically I'd open your aperture or bump your ISO up to allow for a shortened exposure time. With that, your model is less susceptible to move and cause the problems.

Or, if you're already shooting at your camera's limits, try shooting when there is still a hair more light in the sky. You'll still get a similar nighttime look, but there should be more light in the frame to work with.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6