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Messages - pato

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Transport damage maybe? I mean Sigma already said it's not normal, so it's probably simply broken or a de-centered element.

Underwater / Re: Canon S100 underwater questions
« on: July 26, 2014, 08:08:24 AM »
Hi Andy

I guess you can well start with the cheap case, just don't start with going under 30 meters ;)
10 - 20 meters should be fine, if the case is supposed to be ok for 40 meters.
Just that you know, every meter you go deper, the less light you have. Below 15 meters, in clear water, you already have to crank up the ISO very high to have enough light to picture the moving animals, corals, ...

Regarding the filters, once you have a flash (or very strong LED torch) you don't need them anymore, as you have more or less full spectrum light which gives you the correct colors.
The S100 can make RAW images. Thanks to this you can fairly easely adjust the colors afterwards in your favorite image processing program. Otherwise put in the "underwater" mode, which also corrects the colors somewhat.
But as the camera doesn't know how deep you are, it can't really fix the color 100% right, same with a filter.

In any case, you safe all those problems (filters, after editing, high iso, unsharp images because of movement,...) with one flash. I own a Sea&Sea YS-01 (would buy the YS-D1 today).

Do you have sample pictures of out of focus high noise pictures?

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: 25 or 24 f p/s?
« on: June 27, 2014, 07:12:55 AM »
Youtube is upgrading, soon you can upload 48 and 60 fps:

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Prepping my x100s for the beach
« on: June 10, 2014, 06:58:39 AM »
If you want to get one step further, buy an underwater casing. They don't mind sand and allow you to put the camera on the sand. Just make sure to rinse and towel the case first before you open it (in the hotel room)!

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: 25 or 24 f p/s?
« on: June 01, 2014, 03:12:20 PM »
Traditionally TV signals are PAL = 25 (Europe) FPS and NTSC = 24 (America). With todays much more modern TVs and not to forget computers, I'd go for 25 or if you have the choice, 30-60.
The Hobbit was filmed in HFR which is 48 FPS. Yes yes I know, there are people who don't like it, but I prefer sharp images when moving the camera.
Simply put, the more FPS, the sharper the image on movements, the more data on your hard disk.

Wow only 6 years old and making such problems? That is not good. I wouldn't expect that of such a new microwave. I mean if it's some 20 years old, or maybe 10-15, then yeah ok it could leak. But a 6 year old one?!? That sounds more like cheap quality or maybe somehow broken.

This lens can't be stopped down thanks to it's age/Sigmas protocol hack/Canons update to protocol. I can only shoot full open (which is fine for my subjects).

First of all, a modern microwave shouldn't leak much, it should leak barely anything!
Just that you know, nearly every wireless transmitted signal is in 2.4 GHz. That often includes, baby phones, microwaves, wireless flash systems, wireless cameras (which aren't Wi-Fi standard based), Bluetooth, ....

Regarding some mentioned points, 802.11n works in 2.4 AND also in 5 GHz, depending on the accesspoint. Only 802.11ac works solely in 5 GHz, but most devices aren't yet 802.11ac ready.
If you buy a new accesspoint (802.11n or today better 802.11ac), make sure it's a dual-band device, that works in both frequencies. That way you keep compatibility to all your devices (game consoles and older mobile phones/tables often only work in 2.4 GHz).


Technical Support / Canon 6D and old Sigma 400mm F5.6 overexposure
« on: May 28, 2014, 04:19:34 AM »
Hello all
I have an interesting problem with my Sigma 400mm APO HSR F5.6 lens and my 6D. I had this lens already with a Canon 550D where it performed lovely.
Now on the 6D (or after I used it in a very humid place), it always overexposures the pictures by 1 2/3 - 2 stops. The funny part is, the camera shows it's "correctly" exposed in normal and liveview mode, but the image is clearly much to bright. I could work around it by using AV/TV and underexpose all images by nearly 2 full stops. I didn't use the lens for some weeks and then used it again, but same results (in case it was really something with the humidity).
I don't anymore have my 550D, so I can't test if the lens is broken or if it's something special with the 6D.
What I wonder though, shouldn't it be the camera that is metering the light (based on histogram or whatever) and not the lens? If I check the picture after it's made (without compensation) it's clearly to bright in the histogram.
All other lenses that I have work fine.

I believe I once posted this question already, but I couldn't anymore find it.


Forgot to mention something. It's not yet stock, so the price might go a bit further down once it is. I think this might also apply to your countries!

Here in Switzerlands the EF 16-35 f/4L is available for a sweet 1068 SFr. That's currently spot on 1200 USD.

Cool, but on the other hand, I guess no other EF lens manufacturer will ever reach this number in the foreseeable future. I find it actually a tad "misleading".
But still happy about the quality and that it's still mostly made in Japan :)

Hi all

I found a very interesting blog post regarding autofocus (AFMA) and lightning conditions:
Here one picture which shows the autofocus result with a Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L

Also, it's just a few results and not yet a full range of many tests. But still, it shows a big variance depending on the used lightning when using autofocus, or doing AFMA.

What do you think of this?


Reviews / Re: Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 Wide Angle Review
« on: January 09, 2014, 10:23:08 AM »
Also got the Samyang version now :)
I am just awaiting some clear, moon free, night sky, but so far the weather didn't play nice with me.
Otherwise it's a nice lens and I find manual focus surprisingly well working with my 6D.

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