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Messages - FTb-n

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31
Sports / Re: track and field photography
« on: February 04, 2014, 06:14:29 PM »
Learn to shoot in manual mode and watch the light meter in the view finder.  I don't trust the auto exposure modes.  All too often, the background can adversely affect the meter reading (such as skaters against a white ice rink).

Action shots need a minimum shutter speed of 1/500 (maybe 1/400 for younger kids).  Preferred speed of 1/1000.

Shoot your 70-200 wide open (either 2.8 or 4.0 -- I don't know which lens you have).

ISO up to 3200 often produces clean images with the 5D3 without noticeble noise.  Don't be afraid to go higher.  I often shoot up to 6400 in indoor gyms.  Remember, a sharp noisy photo is begter than a blurred clean one.

Shoot AI SERVO focus mode and single-point focussing with 8 expansion points.  Use Case 2 to keep your subject in focus when something else gets in the way.  Lock on to your subject with the center point and follow your subject.  Keep panning with your subject as you shoot.  As long as one focus point stays on your subject, your subject will stay in focus.  Keep in mind that AI SERVO is a predictive mode.  It keeps your subject in focus by tracking its movement, then predicting where it will be when the shutter trips.  It works best when you start tracking a second a so before triggering the shutter.  Track with the shutter partially depressed. 

Google "Canon back button focussing".  It may take some getting use to, but it is quite handy.

Set drive mode to high speed burst.  But, don't make it a crutch.  In many cases the only way to get "the" shot is with good timing.

Some indoor venues may benefit with custom white balance.  But, shoot in RAW and you can fix this in post if needed.  If not comfortable with custom white balance, shoot AWB.

Develop good habits for holding the camera -- cradle the lens in the palm of your left hand and keep your wings in.  Pan at the waste.   A monopod will help eliminate fatigue for longer events.  Hold steady, but not too tight.  Relaxed hands are steadier than clenched hands.

If using IS, set it to pan mode.  At 1/1000 second, you can turn off IS.  Some advise turning it off at anything above 1/500.  But, with the 70-200 f2.8L II, I can't tell a difference with IS on or off.

Learn to anticipate the action and be prepared.  Lastly, practice, practice, practice...

32
Lenses / Re: Lens filters or not?
« on: February 01, 2014, 04:57:24 PM »
I strongly recommend the Hoya HD over the Hoya Pro1 or Hoya HMC.  It's very tough, I found no noticeable difference in IQ with or without the filter, and it's very easy to clean.

Based on other reviews and not personal experience, B+W is the only other filter I would consider.

33
Footote.  In my experience, the FF body yields sharper images than crop bodies given the same lens.  To me, this largely offsets the "benefit" of the extra reach of a crop body.

34
I was shooting with a 5D3 and a 7D as a second body.  I often shoot with two bodies.  Recently, I replaced the 7D with another 5D3.  Note that I still have a 60D.  The feature "benefits" of the 7D and 60D -- high FPS, extra reach, articulating screen --paled when compared with the benifits of full frame.  And, I reaaly liked the articulating screen.  My 5D3 is sharper, has more color latitude, is better in low light, and yields smaller DOF. But, you know this.

The 5D3 is a step up from the 6D for action.  For me, this was a must.  If you don't find the 6D focus system to be limiting for what you shoot, then  get another 6D.  Down the road, I think you would find the 70D to be a dissapointment becuase it still is a step down in IQ.  Plus, when switching bodies, it is nice that both have identical controls.

Also, keep the 24-105 for your wife.  If you were to go with the 70D and you wife wants a good zoom, then you afe looking at the 17-55 f2.8  which is a GREAT crop body lens.  But, the 6D/24-105 is a sharper and more versatile kit than the 70D/17-55. 

I'm using the 7D and the 60D as "training tools" to help my wife and kids get more comfortable shooting in manual or AV and with back-button focussing.  Also, using them to encourage more selective use of ISO.  This way, they will be more comfortable shooting with one of my 5D3s if I need their help or if they want more out of their shots.  My bet is that the 6D will be just as easy to learn the craft as the 70D is.  The only caveat is whether video is a high need.  Then the 70D might be more attractive.

35
I'm using two Seagate 3 TB USB 3.0 drives (STBV3000100) and manually mirroring them so I have two sets.  In addition, I burn to BluRay discs. 

36
Get the 6D and you won't look back.

I upgraded from the 7D to the 5D3.  High ISO for sports and indoor events were the main motivation.  But, I'm glad that I did so before a trip to Yellowstone.  My 'L' lenses are sharper on the full frame body and the color latitude is deeper.  If action isn't a priority, the 6D is a great choice.  It would have been mine had I not needed the focus benefits of the 5D3.

For what it's worth, if you do go 70D, the 17-55 is a great lens for it.  Still, since your considering the 6D, I'm betting that it's the camera that you really want, but just need some confirmation that full-frame is what it's cracked up to be.  IT IS!

37
Lenses / Re: What to Buy?
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:39:27 PM »
I mostly shoot indoor sports and events with a 70-200 f2.8L II.  Last year, I made the jump from a 7D to a 5D3 primarily for the high ISO advantage.  But, I found other improvements.  Color depth was greatly improved, my images are sharper, and I can get smaller DOF with full frame.

My biggest concern was losing the extra reach of the crop body.  But, I've found that my 70-200 is sharper on the 5D3, so sharp, I'd rather crop a 5D3 image than use the 7D -- at least with high ISO indoor shots.  I think you will find that your 24-105 and your 70-300 will be far better lenses on the 6D than your 7D. 

Renting a 6D is a good idea.  Take some test shots with the same lens on both bodies to see if cropping the 6D image will make up for the "extra reach" of the 7D.  Granted, there will be less pixel density, but I think you will find a sharper image.

The 7D has a better focus system than the 6D.  If action is your primary subject, this may be an issue.  If not, the 6D is a great option.  My advice is not to wait for the 7DII.  Either go 6D or wait until you can afford a 5D3.  Don't overlook the Canon refurb store.

38
Lenses / Re: zooms vs primes for landscape
« on: January 25, 2014, 07:05:41 PM »


Great shot, GMC!!  I love how the waterline takes the eye back to the sunset and the contrast between sharp rock formation and the soft water, beach, and clouds.

39
Landscape / Re: Sunset landscape
« on: January 25, 2014, 04:20:54 PM »
Yellowstone National Park.  Shot with a 5D3, a 24-105 f4L, and a polarizing filter.

40
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 25, 2014, 04:10:54 PM »
Yellowstone National Park, August 2013.  All shot with a 5D3, 24-104 f4.0L, and Hoya HD polarizing filter.

41
Lenses / Re: 7D user - advice on my best option for a 'go to' lens?
« on: January 16, 2014, 06:37:55 PM »
Before going full frame, I used a 70-200 f2.8L II on the 7D and the 17-55 f2.8 on the 60D.  I highly recommend both lenses.  In my case, with sports and events, the 70-200 was my main lens.  On the 5D3, it's still my main lens.

But, for a "normal" zoom on crop, the 17-55 can't be beat.  The f2.8 is more important to me than the extra reach of 105mm on the f4.0 zoom.

If full frame is just around the corner, then look into a 5D3/24-105 or a 6D/24-105 kit.  If not, I suspect that you will get more out of your 7D with the 17-55, than the 24-105.

42
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post your favorite camera gear here
« on: January 15, 2014, 01:49:00 AM »
I wish Canon would make some FF mirrorless, looks like your "Canonet GIII QL17". I will be the first one on pre-order list :)
I'll be second on that list.

43
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post your favorite camera gear here
« on: January 14, 2014, 11:59:47 PM »
All time sentimental favorite camera is a black body 1974 Canon FTb-n with the FD 50 f1.4 breech-lock lens.  It's my first 35 and the camera that got me hooked on photography.  Next favorite is the Canonet GIII QL17 (40mm 1.7).  Both are simple, manual, nothing fancy, tough, no battery required (except for the meter) cameras that were fun to use.

But, my current favorite is the 5D3 with the 70-200 f2.8L II.  Never ceases to amaze me what this body can do in tough situations.  (Shh...a year ago, the 7D was the favorite that didn't cease to amaze.)

44
Lenses / Re: New 35mm f2 IS - Potential mount issue?
« on: January 14, 2014, 11:02:38 PM »
I recently added a second 5D3 to my kit which still includes a 7D.  I find that the 40 and the new 35 2.0 IS are a little tight on each body, particularly on the newer 5D3.  These lenses give a definite metal-against-metal feel when mounting them to the body.  In contrast, both of the L lenses (70-200 2.8 and 24-105) glide on smoothly with each body.  I suspect this is due to the weather sealing.

I wouldn't worry about it.

45
Canon General / Re: Advice for future path please!
« on: January 11, 2014, 12:05:03 PM »
Superzoom for a compact camera?

FWIW, back when my XT was my "good camera", I bought the SX20 for a trip to Florida.  I wanted to travel light and didn't want to carry expensive gear with me.  I used it for beach shots a Cocoa Beach and for touring Disney World with the family.  It was liberating in a way.  I didn't miss my XT because it was a 1,000 miles away.  I was also more comfortable with the SX20 on the beach because I wasn't risking my good camera in the sand.  For many hours at Disney, the light weight was very welcomed.

Shutter lag is something that truly drives me nuts with compacts.  The SX20 is one of the quicker superzooms.  It's successors seem to lag more.  Still, since it was the only camera with me, I was resigned to making it work.

Today, I only use it for video because it has aut focus during video.  I'm getting better with the manual focus video on the 5D3, but there are times when it's easier to grab the SX20.

After upgrading to the 60D/7D sensors and now the 5D3 sensor, I don't consider the SX20 anymore.  Now "compact" either means the S100 or the 5D3 with the pancake.  Incidently, the S100 has a slighter larger sensor than the SX cameras and offers RAW images.

Looking back to that Florida trip, I got some great sunrise shots on the beach.  For these, I do wish I had my 7D or a FF.  For the Disney shots - the "we were there" memories shots, the SX20 images are fine.  But, to do the trip over, I'd take my 5D3.  Sure, it's a lot heavier, but I've also discovered Think Tank belts, holsters, and the Peak Design Capture Clip, which makes it much more comfortable to carry the big lenses.

Full frame will spoil you and change the way you approach photography.

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