December 18, 2014, 10:28:22 PM

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Messages - FTb-n

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31
Lenses / Re: Lens as a gift. Non Photographer buying... :)
« on: November 26, 2014, 11:23:31 AM »
Sean, we are really glad you are here and hope you keep us posted and share how this turns out.  Get your wife on the forum and I assure you she will probably learn a few things.  Of course, this forum is also to blame for many badly needed photography purchases as well!   :D
+1

We hope she's thrilled with your gift and the creative opportunities that it will unleash!

32
Lenses / Re: Lens as a gift. Non Photographer buying... :)
« on: November 26, 2014, 12:01:10 AM »
If she hasn't learned to shoot in manual mode I would probably stick with the t5i. She would probably be very happy with it and a new lens.

Good point.  Does Sean know what setting the mode dial is at?  If you aren't using the "creative modes" (specifically M, Av, or Tv) you may not fully appreciate the benefits of the higher-end lenses and bodies.

33
Lenses / Re: Lens as a gift. Non Photographer buying... :)
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:22:39 PM »
Hi,

You're right - I meant Prime Tele. And I suppose I'm getting at a need for faster action at low light. Does that make sense?
I appreciate all the comments - and am leaning towards a new 70D at this point. I do understand that bodies are a personal choice, but knowing the wife as I do, she'll never buy one unless I force the issue. I'd rather do a return for something else than a gift cert. The real question then, at this point, is will a 70D be enough, or should I do the 70D and a lens.

Thanks
Sean
Sean,

Faster action at low light does make sense. 

The most versatile crop body/lens combo for action at low light is the 7D2 with the 70-200 f2.8L II.  This will cost around $4,000.  The second best option is the 70D with the same lens for around $3,000.  Image quality between the two bodies is similar.  The benefits of the 7D2 will be most noticeable if shooting a lot of sports or wildlife.  If sports isn't a main subject matter, then the 70D would still be a great choice.  With either combo, the 70-200 is the star.  It will outlast either body and shine even brighter if there is a full-frame in your wife's future.

I assume that the 70-300 that your wife has is the non-L version.  I have the same lens.  It collects dust now.  Cropping the 70-200 at 200 is sharper than the 70-300 at 300.

If the 70-200 is too much lens right now (it sells for around $2,000), consider planning for it to be a future purchase.  An 85 1.8 or a 100 2.0 may be a good interim lens.  But, I would advise against the 135 2.0.  True, it's a great lens, but it's not as versatile as the 70-200.

I upgraded my XT to a 60D then went through a few months of debating over a second choice to the 70-200.  I came real close to getting a 100 f2.0 when it was over $500.  Then I took a cheap 18-135 to a local event and tried to use it only at 100 mm.  It didn't take long to realize the benefit of the 70-200.  So, I waited a couple more months and took the 70-200 Mk II plunge -- absolutely my best purchase.


34
Lenses / Re: Lens as a gift. Non Photographer buying... :)
« on: November 25, 2014, 05:13:56 PM »
Wow, lot's of advice for the OP to ponder.

This gear is expensive, if you aren't sure, then some kind of creative way to give her a "coupon" for a lens and/or shopping spree makes a lot of sense.

I'll offer one more caveat.  I'm guessing that the 6 year-old Rebel predates the 18 MP sensor of the T2i/T3i/60D/7D bodies.  If true, then a new body will be a huge improvement.  But, if the OP's wife hasn't been keeping up with EOS body lineup (and doesn't follow CR), she may not realize the benefit until she tries a new one out. 

Speaking from experience, I came from the world of film.  My 8 MP Rebel XT was a huge improvement with it's "high" ISO of 1600.  All I thought that I wanted was a new lens.  With the film mindset, there's little difference in bodies.  But, in the digital world, the body (or sensor) can make a big difference.  It wasn't until I tried a friend's T2i with another friend's 70-200 f2.8 Mk I that I realized what I was missing.  My camera bag hasn't been the same since.

When I ultimately upgraded to FF, I looked at lenses differently.  Those "L" lenses that are good on crop, are fantastic on FF.  So, if FF could be in the wife's future, make the leap now.  Of course, I'm making some presumptions on budget.

I would advise the OP to look into the pricing of a 70D and the 6D to assess which one may be in the ballpark budget-wise.  Then, however he presents the gift to his wife, make it clear that it's ok to spend the money for whatever body is in his budget.

Incidentally, I would also highly recommend Canon's refurbish store for refurbished bodies.  I bought my 7D from them and have been very pleased with the purchase.  I like knowing that the body was fully tested by Canon before being sold.  They now offer a 12 month warranty.

35
Lenses / Re: Lens as a gift. Non Photographer buying... :)
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:24:31 AM »
Canon 70-200 F2.8L IS II
+1

I thought the OP wanted a mid-range zoom, but on crop or FF, the Canon 70-200 F2.8L IS II is my workhorse lens.

36
Lenses / Re: Lens as a gift. Non Photographer buying... :)
« on: November 25, 2014, 09:52:59 AM »
If the Rebel has less than 18 megapixels, a body upgrade is in order.

If sports isn't a priority and you want to stick with a crop body, the 70D paired with a Canon 17-55 f2.8 would be a huge improvement and an ideal system for general use.

However, if full-frame is in play, consider the 6D with a 24-70 f2.8L II or even the older 24-105 f2.8L. 

As previously implied, there's a risk here.  These suggestions aren't cheap and we are making assumptions about your wife's interest in photography.  I can only draw from my experience.  A few years ago, I upgraded from an 8 mg XT to a 60D.  For a short zoom, I chose the 17-55 f2.8.  I was blown away with the IQ improvement and the low light performance of this body and this lens.

Eventually, with my sports photography, I pushed the limits of crop bodies and ventured into FF with a 5D3 and a 24-105 f4L.  I was blown away again with IQ improvements and better low light performance.

Full frame is expensive (and heavy).  It typically leads one to buying more 'L' lenses.  It may then lead to buying better post processing software and better computers.  But, once the money is spent, for the serious photographer, it can be very rewarding.

General advice is not to upgrade until the limits of your gear are holding you back.  You need to decide whether the limits of your wife's Rebel, or of crop bodies in general, are constraining her photography.

37
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Black Rapid Backpack Strap
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:59:49 PM »
Okay - let me ask you this... Do you think that putting a lens (on a tripod ring/foot like the 100-400) into the capture clip even makes sense... maybe I'm over thinking it.  I will have 2 clips coming next week.  I'll do some testing... maybe I'll have one clip for sale.   ;D
Good question.  I use the collar on my 70-200 with a monopod for figure skating, so I keep a Manfrotto clip in it.  Generally, however, I prefer to leave the collar home.  I suspect the clip on the body will work better.  The lens collar may be too centered weight-wise and prone to swinging.

38
Sports / Re: Winter Baseball
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:50:16 PM »
I miss summer  :(

39
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Black Rapid Backpack Strap
« on: November 14, 2014, 11:25:46 AM »
I use two standard Capture Clips for two 5D3 bodies, one with a 70-200 f2.8L II and the other with a 24-70 f2.8L II.  I do not use a tether strap.  Recently, I switched the clip to a 7D body and was impressed at how it remained secure on the 5D3.  I do, periodically, make sure the clip is still tight and have never had it loosen up.

The mount that secures to a strap or belt, however, should be checked periodically.  I'm in the habit of double-checking the thumb screws.  Sometimes, they aren't tight, but have never really loosened up.

40
Standings as of this post:

Neuro             14897 posts, 10 boxes,  one rumored EOS GEEK
Mt. Spokane        9055 posts,   9 boxes, one very envied EF 50 f0.7 IS
Marsu42            4944 posts,   7 boxes, one EF 400 f2.8L IS Mark II
Private By Design  2709 posts,   7 boxes, one EF 300 f2.8L IS II


All seems right to me -- except I'd rather have a 50 f0.7, but that's just me.

41
I always (ok, almost always) power down before removing the card.  I never power down to change a lens.  I most often power down before storing it -- I try to do so every time, but have forgotten.

42
EOS Bodies / Re: what is the body you want to see canon release next ?
« on: November 02, 2014, 07:33:05 PM »
SL2 with the 70D sensor and improved video AF.

My 5D3's suit me fine.  But, I would be interested in a compact DSLR for travel light needs and for my wife. 

I like full manual for stills, but video isn't a big interest for me.  The 5D3 is truly fantastic for those more talented with manual focus while shooting video -- which isn't me.  Our best video camera for me and for my wife to use is an SX20.  I'd like to replace this with an SL2 which can use my lenses or just the 18-135 (or the new pancake).

43
Photography Technique / How do you nail your exposure when shooting sports?
« on: November 01, 2014, 12:52:21 PM »
I often look at exif data of sports shots (when available) and am surprised at how many sport shooters use an auto exposure mode.  Av or Tv seem most common.  It isn't that I expect "real photographers only shoot manual".  It's how they get reliable results from an auto mode that surprises me.  (Or, maybe they don't??)

I've tried Av or manual with Auto ISO and often get wide swings from overexposed to underexposed shots.  If I use partial metering, jersey colors can wildly affect the exposure.  Evaluative or center weighted metering gives me more problems with the background adversely influencing the shot.  So I most often spot meter on faces during warm-up and shoot full manual.  (During the action, spot metering a face then recomposing means lost shots.)

Indoors, some gyms have dark spots, so I try to change the shutter accordingly during play.  Most often, this is based more on my eye than the meter.  When the scene looks darker, I bump the shutter speed, shoot, then chimp the LCD to see if I was close.  But, outdoors, I run into more light swings.  Either cloud cover results in constantly changing light or players move in and out of shadows based on the direction of their play.  Still, I try to note the correct exposure -- or something close -- and change settings when I anticipate play moving into different lighting conditions.

My results are generally close, plus or minus 2/3 stops.  I still get a bunch that may be off a full stop.  But, I'd like to nail the exposure in camera.

How do you nail your exposure when shooting sports?

44
Post Processing / Portrait-specific post processing software
« on: October 31, 2014, 09:49:54 PM »
Anyone use portrait-specific post processing software that you can recommend -- or warn against purchasing?

I don't have Photoshop and only use Lightroom 5.  For the most part, this has met all my needs.  But, what do you use for portraits of students who have more than a mild amount of adolescent blemish reduction needs?

I often see Portrait Professional ads on these pages (I know that the ads aren't endorsed by CR) with samples that overdo things a bit.  Anyone have experience with this software?

45
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: clown* photographer
« on: October 24, 2014, 11:51:27 AM »
oh boy..you just had to ask...didn't you...LOL! It's complicated. It is a light painting set-up.
Sorry, but I'm glad I asked.  I found the story of your creation far more fascinating than a ring light.  Thanks for sharing it!!

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