September 01, 2014, 10:21:16 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - jdramirez

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 153
1
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5D 4 & 1DX II @ Photokina?
« on: Today at 10:05:38 AM »

September announcements are for products for Christmas - user cameras/accessories.  Pro bodies should be expected before major event - like fishing championship  ;D
Fishing championship... funny... really funny.  or the Neighbors annual Labor Day backyard Corn hole event.  I hear ESPN 8 (the ocho) will be doing wall to wall coverage.

2
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5D 4 & 1DX II @ Photokina?
« on: Today at 09:59:03 AM »
Photokina is right around the corner. Nothing on 5D 4 and 1DX II? No rumors, nothing... ::)

Maybe Photokina 2015... though I'm kinda hoping Photokina 2016.  I really don't want to be tempted anytime soon.

3
Lenses / Re: Recent L Price Reductions: Thoughts?
« on: Today at 09:56:45 AM »
Did they reduce the price of the 50L?  I just checked, they reduced the 50L by $70.  And they didn't reduce the 35L at all. 

I suppose they could have reduced the prices of a bunch of lenses to mask that they are trying to make the 50L more competitive, but that doesn't seem right. 

Then maybe increase the rest of the lenses back up periodically and leave the 50L where it is... but I don't see that. 

I have no clue about their decision, but it is september (so christmas is not too far off)... and they did offer instant rebates in years past... maybe this is their way of having instant rebates without going back on their mail in rebate policy lately. 

4
I bought the 85mm 1.2 II because of its ability to shoot @ 1.2.
This allows me to take very creative portraits. It's a heavy and slow focusing lens (relatively speaking).
I personally don't understand comparing 1.2 lens to anything else but 1.2 lens.
Stopping down to 1.4 and comparing at 1.4 to the sigma art doesn't make sense to me.
I have a Canon 50 1.4 (and had a 50 1.8). I would consider it a fair comparison to compare it to the Sigma 1.4.
I quite like the Canon. It's not the sharpest at 1.4 but it has a lovely vignette and creates a nice look.
If I were buying a canon 1.2 it would only be for its shallow depth of field @1.2. If I was going to mainly be stopping down Id buy the 1.4 or 1.8 which are much lighter.
I love all these types of discussions and comparisons because I always want to know which is the best.
But I am also experienced enough to know a bad workman blames his tools..
A 50 1.2 might be better than a 50 1.4 but I like 99% of the members of Canon Rumors are not good enough to show this in real world photos.
I got up at 05:00 yesterday morning and took out of focus photographs of a beautiful sunrise over the sea with a 24mm TS-E II. It wasn't the lens wasn't sharp.
It was the brain of the photographer .
But it was a wonderful privilege to witness the sun rising. That memory will last a lot longer than the out of focus photographs.
Drop the charts for a while and try it for yourself.
But keep these discussions going because they are enjoyable too

I compare the two because I have a finite amount of dollars and I know there are give and takes between the two lenses.  AF of the art is hit or miss with peripheral AF points... but the 85L is slow to focus, so it isn't good for fast movement (barring the 1dx).  The bokeh of the 85 is magic, but the 50's is very nice and also $1000ish less.

I've bought the 85L 5x... but each time the deal went sour. 

I have a discounted 50 art in my Amazon account (Saving around $50, so not a big discount).

So then there what I have now... a 24-105, a 100L, a 70-200mm f/2.8L mkii, so the 50art fits better into my needs... because I can use the 50 indoors, and while it isn't a wide angle, it is wide enough to use...

So it is a mess... a giant mess.

5
I'm curious to see if someone knows how to adjust color calibration with a flat image, but I don't.

 Same for rentals, but one of those calibrators is something you could share with a group of friends - x-rite doesn't bother with DRM for the software because you need the device to accomplish anything with it.

Jim

There is a local camera club... and I don't think EVERYONE hates me... so that might be a nice investment.

6
$250 for the i1... ouch.  Where can I rent one?

7
Big can of worms there.  The idea seems to be to calibrate your monitor and your printer to the same ideal standard.  An i1 Display Pro can get your monitor sorted, but you'd need something like a ColorMunki to calibrate the output of your printer.

I'd buy the i1 Display Pro (or similar) and get your monitor sorted; after that if the prints you get back look good then you're done.  If not I'd borrow a Colormunki if you can and then try not to go mad printing patches for each paper/ink combo you want to use...  :-/

Jim

Costco... the big box store... they do my printing for me because I'm cheap.  So I'd like to match the monitor to the "known" printed image.  I was thinking about using something like this...

8
What I really want to see is a review comparing the 50 art with the 85L mkii.  I don't need the 1/2 (1/4) stop of additional light, but I do use auto focus... so that would help, bokeh of the 85L should be better than the art, at least from what I can decipher, 50art bokeh < 50L < 85L mkii. 

I'm such a wreck.

9
I bought a used Manfrotto carbon fiber monopod on ebay for $75.  Love it.  Hefty, but not heavy.  No head.  I shoot my 400mm f2.8 from it and don't need a head.

One time I bought a $12 Vivitar monotpod at walmart.  Figured i'd use it on my smaller gear.  cracked and the crew go stuck in my camera.  took hours to remove.

I didn't think about eBay... I'll search soon.

So I've been losing every auction... que sera sera... but there are very few Sunsui (or whatever) available... so I will probably wind up with a Manfrotto... so I guess that's a plus.  I could have used it tonight... night shooting @ an amusement park, some long exposures... and an f/2.8 lens.  bleh.

10
So I just retired my old Dell 20 inch monitor and it did a more than adequate job of recreating the print color and and exposure I received from my printer of choice, Costco. 

I replaced the Dell with a vanity 39" Panasonic tvhttp://www.bestbuy.com/site/panasonic-39-class-38-1-2-diag--led-1080p-120hz-smart-hdtv/3730052.p;jsessionid=4F0EC0247B9821FA3FC38EE9E23ED333.bbolsp-app03-139?id=1219093275246&skuId=3730052&st=39%22%20panasonic%20led&cp=1&lp=2... which I don't expect to use for photo editing.  It is mostly there because I wanted a tv for my bedroom and I like playing really old school video games (Milon's Secret Castle) on a big screen. 

I also picked up a 23" Viewsonic ips screen which I did expect to use for photo editing... I turned down the backlighting a good deal on both, but the color on the panasonic seems better and more accurate than the color on the viewsonic (maybe too little red, and too much green)

So I need to fix it.  I was thinking about having a color wheel or vertical bars of color (no freaking clue what they are called) printed out from costco and then do my damn-dest to match the colors by messing with the settings.

So, since I basically rely on everything I do on ya'lls opinion, does this sound right?  Or is there a better cheap way to set up the monitor.  Ideally, I would like to have both perfect, but I know using a tv is a pipe dream. 

11
Lenses / Re: price chart
« on: August 31, 2014, 04:53:52 PM »
As a quick alternative to canon rumors... you could go to camelcamelcamel dot com and they only track the historic prices of Amazon, but you can also see the prices of 3rd party sellers or the used market.  I use that a lot when trying to determine market value for a used lens.

12
Lenses / Re: price chart
« on: August 31, 2014, 04:50:24 PM »
Prices usually drop starting around the first of September, and Canon likes to blow out inventory by the end of their FY (Dec 31).  So, depending on inventory and on sales, look for deals and be ready to pounce.  The super deals often last only 1 day.

Jesse,

Sometimes the deals last less than a day – just hours.

In addition to this site, Canonpricewatch.com is a great site for announcing deals. I've noticed that many of these deals seem to be announced after 11 PM or even after midnight Eastern time in the United States. If you think you want something, order it. Don't wait or it may be gone. If you change your mind in a few hours you may be able to cancel it before it ships or return it within the exchange period. This assumes you buy from reputable dealers such as Amazon, Adorama, or B&H. By the way, that short list of firms is not exhaustive nor should order imply anything.

And ... don't overlook calling and asking for a better price.  If you have done your homework and have a good idea of the lowest legitimate price from a Authorized Dealer, ask for a match from your favorite dealer.  This is a case where e-mails don't work as well as direct phone calls.  If they meet your price, then buy on the spot.

I worked in retail... and whether the company's driving force is market share or simply customer satisfaction, a manager will say yes unless the offered price is just WAY too far under their cost.  Heck, $20 under cost to make a customer happy and gain market share... that's a small price to pay.

13
Lenses / Re: Permanent price drops
« on: August 31, 2014, 04:48:06 PM »
I feel stupid now for ordering the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II USM.  It will be here Tuesday.  I got the rebate and all, but the street price with the rebate is still $200 less than I paid.  I bought it through B&H.  Thought I was getting a really good deal.   ::)

Call them after their price drops, see what they say.  Maybe you'll get a double dip?

I suppose it couldn't hurt to try.

Definitely call them. I bought 4 600EX-RTs on one order a couple of years ago, and there was a significant price drop (when multiplied by 4) within 30 days of my date of purchase (in other words, within the product return window). I contacted B&H by e-mail, and they immediately credited my charge account for the difference between the old and new prices, no questions asked.

By the way, I purchased the 70-200 II from B&H in June, at $2,499 before $300 rebate and ~ $50 in B&H reward credits, for a net price of about $2,150. It was an upgrade from the 70-200/2.8L IS mark I, and I'm totally satisfied, even though it cost about $550 more (net) than I paid for the new mark I 8 years ago.

Ditto with Adorama.  I bought a CF card and 3 price drops later... I'm saying they were nice enough to give me the discounted price each time. 

After all is said and done... you might get the rebate plus a price break... and that is a thing of beauty.

14
Shooting with flash to capture sports is a rookie move.  Especially when you are locked at a slow shutter (250/s)  The best way to shoot sports is a superzoom with as wide an aperture as possible, coupled with a body capable of high fps (>8), excellent servo (motion tracking), and excellent iso performance at levels greater than 1600.  When shooting football in the early evening, to maintain shutter of 1250, my iso frequently lives at 3200 and above.

High speed sync?   My 5d mkiii also syncs at 1/200..., but that isn't really germane.
Sure I'd like a 400mm f2.8L is mkii, but I don't have a spare $12,000... though I can check the couch cushions... let me check right now... nope only $8,000, mostly in pennies.  I have mulled over a 1dx, but I'm quite happy with the mkiii at the moment.  Actually, when I shoot sports I time and anticipate... I haven't sprayed and prayed in quite a while.



15
Photography Technique / Re: Is RAW worth it?
« on: August 30, 2014, 09:14:29 PM »

I think there might be more steps, I think buying a film body and shooting film for a while might be the next step.

To answer your original question, yea sometimes it is worth it.

Mostly true... here's my slight revisions:

Shoot only in JPEG - Check

Discover RAW shoot in both JPEG and RAW - Check, but then I couldn't figure out how to process the raw file using my existing software... so back to Jpeg with periodically shooting in raw + jpg with the assumption I would eventually figure out what I was doing. 

Become a RAW purist and shoot only in RAW, use excuses like someday I might be able to redo a picture that I thought was lost, my processing skills get better etc... Some of the excuses are used to cover poor or sloppy technique behind the camera- I screw up periodically, but it isn't poor technique... just status quo with me being negligent... regardless of the format.

One day discover that not all of your shoots need to be in RAW. Not all subjects and situations need to be improved on.
Consider once again shooting in RAW and JPEG so you do not waste time having to process pictures that are "good" enough.
Find out that you are wasting time sorting out your JPEG's from your RAW and wasting memory on the computer.
Shoot which ever is appropriate at the time.

I'm shooting at full raw and med-jpg... but the med-jpg is just wasting hard drive space... so I might drop that.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 153