« on: Today at 02:22:10 AM »
$250 for the i1... ouch. Where can I rent one?
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Big can of worms there. The idea seems to be to calibrate your monitor and your printer to the same ideal standard. An i1 Display Pro can get your monitor sorted, but you'd need something like a ColorMunki to calibrate the output of your printer.
I'd buy the i1 Display Pro (or similar) and get your monitor sorted; after that if the prints you get back look good then you're done. If not I'd borrow a Colormunki if you can and then try not to go mad printing patches for each paper/ink combo you want to use... :-/
I bought a used Manfrotto carbon fiber monopod on ebay for $75. Love it. Hefty, but not heavy. No head. I shoot my 400mm f2.8 from it and don't need a head.
One time I bought a $12 Vivitar monotpod at walmart. Figured i'd use it on my smaller gear. cracked and the crew go stuck in my camera. took hours to remove.
I didn't think about eBay... I'll search soon.
Prices usually drop starting around the first of September, and Canon likes to blow out inventory by the end of their FY (Dec 31). So, depending on inventory and on sales, look for deals and be ready to pounce. The super deals often last only 1 day.
Sometimes the deals last less than a day – just hours.
In addition to this site, Canonpricewatch.com is a great site for announcing deals. I've noticed that many of these deals seem to be announced after 11 PM or even after midnight Eastern time in the United States. If you think you want something, order it. Don't wait or it may be gone. If you change your mind in a few hours you may be able to cancel it before it ships or return it within the exchange period. This assumes you buy from reputable dealers such as Amazon, Adorama, or B&H. By the way, that short list of firms is not exhaustive nor should order imply anything.
And ... don't overlook calling and asking for a better price. If you have done your homework and have a good idea of the lowest legitimate price from a Authorized Dealer, ask for a match from your favorite dealer. This is a case where e-mails don't work as well as direct phone calls. If they meet your price, then buy on the spot.
I feel stupid now for ordering the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II USM. It will be here Tuesday. I got the rebate and all, but the street price with the rebate is still $200 less than I paid. I bought it through B&H. Thought I was getting a really good deal.
Call them after their price drops, see what they say. Maybe you'll get a double dip?
I suppose it couldn't hurt to try.
Definitely call them. I bought 4 600EX-RTs on one order a couple of years ago, and there was a significant price drop (when multiplied by 4) within 30 days of my date of purchase (in other words, within the product return window). I contacted B&H by e-mail, and they immediately credited my charge account for the difference between the old and new prices, no questions asked.
By the way, I purchased the 70-200 II from B&H in June, at $2,499 before $300 rebate and ~ $50 in B&H reward credits, for a net price of about $2,150. It was an upgrade from the 70-200/2.8L IS mark I, and I'm totally satisfied, even though it cost about $550 more (net) than I paid for the new mark I 8 years ago.
Shooting with flash to capture sports is a rookie move. Especially when you are locked at a slow shutter (250/s) The best way to shoot sports is a superzoom with as wide an aperture as possible, coupled with a body capable of high fps (>, excellent servo (motion tracking), and excellent iso performance at levels greater than 1600. When shooting football in the early evening, to maintain shutter of 1250, my iso frequently lives at 3200 and above.
I think there might be more steps, I think buying a film body and shooting film for a while might be the next step.
To answer your original question, yea sometimes it is worth it.
I've tried shooting JPG to save disk space for sporting events, but often found gyms with challenging lighting and wasn't happy with skin tones, even when I used custom WB. I gave up and shoot RAW exclusively. It's a lot easier to tweek color corrections with RAW images.