September 01, 2014, 08:41:09 PM

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Messages - jdramirez

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16
$250 for the i1... ouch.  Where can I rent one?

17
Big can of worms there.  The idea seems to be to calibrate your monitor and your printer to the same ideal standard.  An i1 Display Pro can get your monitor sorted, but you'd need something like a ColorMunki to calibrate the output of your printer.

I'd buy the i1 Display Pro (or similar) and get your monitor sorted; after that if the prints you get back look good then you're done.  If not I'd borrow a Colormunki if you can and then try not to go mad printing patches for each paper/ink combo you want to use...  :-/

Jim

Costco... the big box store... they do my printing for me because I'm cheap.  So I'd like to match the monitor to the "known" printed image.  I was thinking about using something like this...

18
What I really want to see is a review comparing the 50 art with the 85L mkii.  I don't need the 1/2 (1/4) stop of additional light, but I do use auto focus... so that would help, bokeh of the 85L should be better than the art, at least from what I can decipher, 50art bokeh < 50L < 85L mkii. 

I'm such a wreck.

19
I bought a used Manfrotto carbon fiber monopod on ebay for $75.  Love it.  Hefty, but not heavy.  No head.  I shoot my 400mm f2.8 from it and don't need a head.

One time I bought a $12 Vivitar monotpod at walmart.  Figured i'd use it on my smaller gear.  cracked and the crew go stuck in my camera.  took hours to remove.

I didn't think about eBay... I'll search soon.

So I've been losing every auction... que sera sera... but there are very few Sunsui (or whatever) available... so I will probably wind up with a Manfrotto... so I guess that's a plus.  I could have used it tonight... night shooting @ an amusement park, some long exposures... and an f/2.8 lens.  bleh.

20
So I just retired my old Dell 20 inch monitor and it did a more than adequate job of recreating the print color and and exposure I received from my printer of choice, Costco. 

I replaced the Dell with a vanity 39" Panasonic tvhttp://www.bestbuy.com/site/panasonic-39-class-38-1-2-diag--led-1080p-120hz-smart-hdtv/3730052.p;jsessionid=4F0EC0247B9821FA3FC38EE9E23ED333.bbolsp-app03-139?id=1219093275246&skuId=3730052&st=39%22%20panasonic%20led&cp=1&lp=2... which I don't expect to use for photo editing.  It is mostly there because I wanted a tv for my bedroom and I like playing really old school video games (Milon's Secret Castle) on a big screen. 

I also picked up a 23" Viewsonic ips screen which I did expect to use for photo editing... I turned down the backlighting a good deal on both, but the color on the panasonic seems better and more accurate than the color on the viewsonic (maybe too little red, and too much green)

So I need to fix it.  I was thinking about having a color wheel or vertical bars of color (no freaking clue what they are called) printed out from costco and then do my damn-dest to match the colors by messing with the settings.

So, since I basically rely on everything I do on ya'lls opinion, does this sound right?  Or is there a better cheap way to set up the monitor.  Ideally, I would like to have both perfect, but I know using a tv is a pipe dream. 

21
Lenses / Re: price chart
« on: August 31, 2014, 04:53:52 PM »
As a quick alternative to canon rumors... you could go to camelcamelcamel dot com and they only track the historic prices of Amazon, but you can also see the prices of 3rd party sellers or the used market.  I use that a lot when trying to determine market value for a used lens.

22
Lenses / Re: price chart
« on: August 31, 2014, 04:50:24 PM »
Prices usually drop starting around the first of September, and Canon likes to blow out inventory by the end of their FY (Dec 31).  So, depending on inventory and on sales, look for deals and be ready to pounce.  The super deals often last only 1 day.

Jesse,

Sometimes the deals last less than a day – just hours.

In addition to this site, Canonpricewatch.com is a great site for announcing deals. I've noticed that many of these deals seem to be announced after 11 PM or even after midnight Eastern time in the United States. If you think you want something, order it. Don't wait or it may be gone. If you change your mind in a few hours you may be able to cancel it before it ships or return it within the exchange period. This assumes you buy from reputable dealers such as Amazon, Adorama, or B&H. By the way, that short list of firms is not exhaustive nor should order imply anything.

And ... don't overlook calling and asking for a better price.  If you have done your homework and have a good idea of the lowest legitimate price from a Authorized Dealer, ask for a match from your favorite dealer.  This is a case where e-mails don't work as well as direct phone calls.  If they meet your price, then buy on the spot.

I worked in retail... and whether the company's driving force is market share or simply customer satisfaction, a manager will say yes unless the offered price is just WAY too far under their cost.  Heck, $20 under cost to make a customer happy and gain market share... that's a small price to pay.

23
Lenses / Re: Permanent price drops
« on: August 31, 2014, 04:48:06 PM »
I feel stupid now for ordering the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II USM.  It will be here Tuesday.  I got the rebate and all, but the street price with the rebate is still $200 less than I paid.  I bought it through B&H.  Thought I was getting a really good deal.   ::)

Call them after their price drops, see what they say.  Maybe you'll get a double dip?

I suppose it couldn't hurt to try.

Definitely call them. I bought 4 600EX-RTs on one order a couple of years ago, and there was a significant price drop (when multiplied by 4) within 30 days of my date of purchase (in other words, within the product return window). I contacted B&H by e-mail, and they immediately credited my charge account for the difference between the old and new prices, no questions asked.

By the way, I purchased the 70-200 II from B&H in June, at $2,499 before $300 rebate and ~ $50 in B&H reward credits, for a net price of about $2,150. It was an upgrade from the 70-200/2.8L IS mark I, and I'm totally satisfied, even though it cost about $550 more (net) than I paid for the new mark I 8 years ago.

Ditto with Adorama.  I bought a CF card and 3 price drops later... I'm saying they were nice enough to give me the discounted price each time. 

After all is said and done... you might get the rebate plus a price break... and that is a thing of beauty.

24
Shooting with flash to capture sports is a rookie move.  Especially when you are locked at a slow shutter (250/s)  The best way to shoot sports is a superzoom with as wide an aperture as possible, coupled with a body capable of high fps (>8), excellent servo (motion tracking), and excellent iso performance at levels greater than 1600.  When shooting football in the early evening, to maintain shutter of 1250, my iso frequently lives at 3200 and above.

High speed sync?   My 5d mkiii also syncs at 1/200..., but that isn't really germane.
Sure I'd like a 400mm f2.8L is mkii, but I don't have a spare $12,000... though I can check the couch cushions... let me check right now... nope only $8,000, mostly in pennies.  I have mulled over a 1dx, but I'm quite happy with the mkiii at the moment.  Actually, when I shoot sports I time and anticipate... I haven't sprayed and prayed in quite a while.



25
Photography Technique / Re: Is RAW worth it?
« on: August 30, 2014, 09:14:29 PM »

I think there might be more steps, I think buying a film body and shooting film for a while might be the next step.

To answer your original question, yea sometimes it is worth it.

Mostly true... here's my slight revisions:

Shoot only in JPEG - Check

Discover RAW shoot in both JPEG and RAW - Check, but then I couldn't figure out how to process the raw file using my existing software... so back to Jpeg with periodically shooting in raw + jpg with the assumption I would eventually figure out what I was doing. 

Become a RAW purist and shoot only in RAW, use excuses like someday I might be able to redo a picture that I thought was lost, my processing skills get better etc... Some of the excuses are used to cover poor or sloppy technique behind the camera- I screw up periodically, but it isn't poor technique... just status quo with me being negligent... regardless of the format.

One day discover that not all of your shoots need to be in RAW. Not all subjects and situations need to be improved on.
Consider once again shooting in RAW and JPEG so you do not waste time having to process pictures that are "good" enough.
Find out that you are wasting time sorting out your JPEG's from your RAW and wasting memory on the computer.
Shoot which ever is appropriate at the time.

I'm shooting at full raw and med-jpg... but the med-jpg is just wasting hard drive space... so I might drop that.

26
Lenses / Re: Permanent price drops
« on: August 30, 2014, 06:08:05 PM »
I'm curious how this will affect the secondary market.  I wonder how soon people will make their market corrections.  Very interesting.

27
Photography Technique / Re: Is RAW worth it?
« on: August 30, 2014, 12:20:32 PM »
I've tried shooting JPG to save disk space for sporting events, but often found gyms with challenging lighting and wasn't happy with skin tones, even when I used custom WB.  I gave up and shoot RAW exclusively.  It's a lot easier to tweek color corrections with RAW images.

What shutter speed were you shooting at?  When I shoot in gyms, I'm generally in that 1/500 to 1/1000 range depending on how much natural light. 

But the gym lights flicker... so @ one moment they are at 5000 kelvin... then the next 5600... and the next 5300 so even with custom white balance, the lights are constantly changing on you... unless you are shooting at 1/60 of a second or slower because all the flickers add up to a consistent kelvin reading. 

At least that's the way I understand it.  Fortunately, the walls in the gym I shot a good deal @ were a perfect white card color, so I could just take my WB from the all, and bam... perfect WB.  I'm going to miss that. 


28
FOR SALE Photo Equipment / Re: Canon 70-200mm f4L is
« on: August 29, 2014, 09:54:48 PM »
As of today, it is sold.  Thanks for taking a look. 


29
Software & Accessories / Re: Shuttercount Now Available for Windows
« on: August 28, 2014, 10:40:08 PM »
I'll buy it the next time I sell a used body.  I've used eoscount twice... so this would be nice, having that functionality in perpetuity.

30
EOS Bodies / Re: Are you planning to purchase a 7D2
« on: August 27, 2014, 12:32:16 PM »
I might mull over a1dx after the replacement has come out, but the 7d mkii... no. 

Actually, the camera I want should have 120 fps for video, better low light performance than the 5d mkiii, and dual pixel and a touch screen.  I don't do much video, but when I do... It is not pretty on my slr.

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